tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12749325175518789272024-03-18T17:15:43.098-07:00Karen and Jim's Excellent Adventure...a peppy periodical on a peripatetic perambulation under sail (and power.)Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.comBlogger243125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-86133362272657103222024-01-28T17:47:00.000-08:002024-03-18T17:05:26.886-07:00Raven, Our Bigfoot 29 Trawler, is For Sale<div><b><br /></b></div><b><div><b><br /></b></div>Update:</b> Raven has been sold. <div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBDGOhL1nrcEl4V4e5npcZgs_c-ZhMNuHvFRBIKZHwKtS1HqGOnSB3YTBv5YTwq1ekNJ5r1z1kj9h0A3WHdQTyIWGNPWiEpV2fB0G9rnA_dvgfazlGMbXbybcg8bFmzgQ7Fcz9CWZMAYtwhdH5_0euJ0YClnkVfuWLh5tC5L7cxYNK8bMFyPTypwfe/s4032/IMG_4320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBDGOhL1nrcEl4V4e5npcZgs_c-ZhMNuHvFRBIKZHwKtS1HqGOnSB3YTBv5YTwq1ekNJ5r1z1kj9h0A3WHdQTyIWGNPWiEpV2fB0G9rnA_dvgfazlGMbXbybcg8bFmzgQ7Fcz9CWZMAYtwhdH5_0euJ0YClnkVfuWLh5tC5L7cxYNK8bMFyPTypwfe/s320/IMG_4320.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhafBgPGAjtp7OViPT7KZOv8831vdCcM1uQX-Oa1i6DXHftyzPgtca4mGt7psZI2rl1en6l6BfX2_9dVFZqiJq1Jw8WPRtioZQNzw4NjWCwolZ5gpZ8nxv7pdFvdK596X2NGfa1lv27M1i_DhE-PtT0ztiV5TfZB6ZgGr2STbUUTvmL5mE-8IOTva-8/s600/R%20in%20Prince%20Rupert.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="446" data-original-width="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhafBgPGAjtp7OViPT7KZOv8831vdCcM1uQX-Oa1i6DXHftyzPgtca4mGt7psZI2rl1en6l6BfX2_9dVFZqiJq1Jw8WPRtioZQNzw4NjWCwolZ5gpZ8nxv7pdFvdK596X2NGfa1lv27M1i_DhE-PtT0ztiV5TfZB6ZgGr2STbUUTvmL5mE-8IOTva-8/s320/R%20in%20Prince%20Rupert.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven struts her stuff, Prince Rupert, Canada<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b>
We owe you a good story</b> after such a long absence, and there’s some surprise news. In mid-July 2023 we hauled out Raven, our Bigfoot 29 trawler built by Leif Knutsen, for painting and general spiffing up. Our aching backs insisted on hiring out the work, and we got a great crew, Lou Geraghty at <a href="https://ptmta.org/wp/horus-horizons-marine/" target="_blank">Horus Horizon Marine</a>, with the assistance of Nic Delorme at <a href="https://ptmta.org/wp/page/2/" target="_blank">Holiday in the Sun Painting</a>, both of whom painted and varnished her substantial wooden acreage into shining perfection. Raven attracted as much affectionate attention at the boatyard as she does on the water. The crew nicknamed her the Chubby Tug, which we adore.
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtLlgEeVwJWXVddMBptlkV-zGUaQyd3mwOpWjCID0OcM3YVdzxWuptJyUDqiS2mmYdTp8rRVwGNLMHbtKRAVy-Xjlx9c_2YlnAm8xi1r9FsUX_PZp4dxCfH_DXhlikVrpS55JGdhkLZW-EKobkg3-sknnfFuE2715sVLa4iZLQYINVchLQnEVz-ISh/s600/Raven%20in%20boatyard.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtLlgEeVwJWXVddMBptlkV-zGUaQyd3mwOpWjCID0OcM3YVdzxWuptJyUDqiS2mmYdTp8rRVwGNLMHbtKRAVy-Xjlx9c_2YlnAm8xi1r9FsUX_PZp4dxCfH_DXhlikVrpS55JGdhkLZW-EKobkg3-sknnfFuE2715sVLa4iZLQYINVchLQnEVz-ISh/s320/Raven%20in%20boatyard.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven hauled out for painting, July 2023, Port Townsend<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><b>
We had no intention </b>whatsoever of selling her, even though over the past few years we hadn’t been using Raven as much as we’d have liked. This was because: <div><br /><div>1) The pandemic, </div><div>2.) The summer of 2022 was completely spent remodeling our house's ancient cramped bathroom into something spa-like, </div><div>3.) Jim has been heavily involved in racing Thunderbirds and helping to run the <a href="https://ptsail.org" target="_blank">Port Townsend Sailing Association</a>, and </div><div>4.) I’ve been busy with various <a href="https://karenlsullivan.com/published-articles/" target="_blank">writing projects</a>.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMcEH2WzjlwPQ9GPqUkPBBOnW-7jk32yetEbL-QUiAY_jha-t1bw3ZDoUk7Cc8dOpaGW5lNIq3uOpET1y40TB2EzdJnyeroLBePbRS6kkkqaBzwAbMLgWygmoadfXOtMgcOSZf4zwsDNQuyftOLGC7rvjrkANcvxuBwK1orsvuqXcOeY-YQ0dcqJVc/s2880/Raven10.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2880" data-original-width="2160" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMcEH2WzjlwPQ9GPqUkPBBOnW-7jk32yetEbL-QUiAY_jha-t1bw3ZDoUk7Cc8dOpaGW5lNIq3uOpET1y40TB2EzdJnyeroLBePbRS6kkkqaBzwAbMLgWygmoadfXOtMgcOSZf4zwsDNQuyftOLGC7rvjrkANcvxuBwK1orsvuqXcOeY-YQ0dcqJVc/s320/Raven10.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven's tailgate provides a private fishing platform. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qJPcZKoml1omc6k4gyuGmelignvxg4gpd6lFQ27cWqE0PJFJsVa13q1T2A9VT2vb0FdkQb1QP2z5T1HduY-sTDQFColMnSA2G24TJTvrZGVKT2wqHUYNlsCsOLoFdUHqIZ1mjNPNQz6LrGw4lRRLHboaa_25DzO60RzYuI2wb09CLAMpwYnLDbbJ/s4032/IMG_8462.JPG" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qJPcZKoml1omc6k4gyuGmelignvxg4gpd6lFQ27cWqE0PJFJsVa13q1T2A9VT2vb0FdkQb1QP2z5T1HduY-sTDQFColMnSA2G24TJTvrZGVKT2wqHUYNlsCsOLoFdUHqIZ1mjNPNQz6LrGw4lRRLHboaa_25DzO60RzYuI2wb09CLAMpwYnLDbbJ/s320/IMG_8462.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Lounge mode" on the aft deck for entertaining.</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrkh4TKh06jTyHsLKOMKDAfiDqiQSjp9aThgbdMp2MQ6Vr3j37qAZESiLmTj5Mw-r96uZStBWpFBD3_S63o7xvLGz3UcrDz-g7ELLmZ4knHebkFhyphenhyphenON_bRCf5R3hQqfA3lL2tuYegw0hy6RKTaWpK-wRvt1UPGCmYxZr8gGv9yfe-BTUV0E2q4lfBV/s960/IMG_3491.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrkh4TKh06jTyHsLKOMKDAfiDqiQSjp9aThgbdMp2MQ6Vr3j37qAZESiLmTj5Mw-r96uZStBWpFBD3_S63o7xvLGz3UcrDz-g7ELLmZ4knHebkFhyphenhyphenON_bRCf5R3hQqfA3lL2tuYegw0hy6RKTaWpK-wRvt1UPGCmYxZr8gGv9yfe-BTUV0E2q4lfBV/s320/IMG_3491.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored in Vancouver BC, 2015</td></tr></tbody></table></div><b><div><b><br /></b></div>
Our intent</b> was to take a break after the haulout for a nice fall cruise—to where, it didn’t matter, we were overdue. Last Spring I had been pining for another sailboat, even to the point of traveling to Seattle to inspect one. As much as I love Raven, I missed that quiet sailing joy. To make things simpler and keep our existing marina moorage, and because we’re fond of smaller boats, we decided that it should be under 30 feet. But every boat I looked at failed to measure up to the rugged but familiar comforts of a Dana 24. After researching a bunch of other boats, it all seemed too much. I said to Jim just as we hauled out Raven, “I’m going to stop searching for another boat, as long as we can get back to cruising on her.”
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><b>
Then fate stepped in.
</b><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div>
Our friend Chris, an ocean kayaker, sailor, and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Duff" target="_blank">author</a>, called to tell us that his wife, also a friend and an experienced solo hiker, had died in a hiking accident. The shock was overwhelming. Chris also happened to be the owner of Sockdolager, our old Dana 24, now named Ouzel after the water-bird. We all fell into sadness over the next couple of weeks, but then Chris called us. “I’m rounding Point Wilson,” he said, “I had to get away, want to go for a sail?” </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQbdGyHxLd2d6sZCtEpP5ub6vsU58vxz0h_3zljcpsjOLJVGk8-xAFi79v-AuZYwSfNqQbQNHkQNd4vtxvjgcp9HIu2KgZ3qYBgR_Gw1sMtNXVl-0k5dxTK-fa-RAkTxBEyaRIeIsrYLdB_0NpDwdc03go7URIP4TjiPNG9IUOT3Bbx4Nmj7TrFY99/s720/Sock%20sailing.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="534" data-original-width="720" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQbdGyHxLd2d6sZCtEpP5ub6vsU58vxz0h_3zljcpsjOLJVGk8-xAFi79v-AuZYwSfNqQbQNHkQNd4vtxvjgcp9HIu2KgZ3qYBgR_Gw1sMtNXVl-0k5dxTK-fa-RAkTxBEyaRIeIsrYLdB_0NpDwdc03go7URIP4TjiPNG9IUOT3Bbx4Nmj7TrFY99/s320/Sock%20sailing.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager sails on Port Townsend Bay</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>On a perfect early August afternoon under a gentle breeze with the mountains and sea glowing in the summer light, we sailed and talked and grieved and ate lunch and sailed some more. Sailing is healing as well as heeling. Chris talked about possible plans that included some serious ocean sailing, maybe on a larger boat, and Jim said, “If you ever decide to sell Sockdolager, let us know, because we might be interested in buying her back.” Jim had certainly read my mind, too.</div><div><br /></div><div> That evening after dinner at our house with Chris, we all looked at listings for the larger boat he’s interested in. Chris sailed home the next day and continued the difficult tasks of wrapping up the life of his beloved wife and figuring out what to do next. Meanwhile Jim and I talked about it. “We’d have to sell Raven,” I said. “It feels like selling our child, and we’ve just spent a fortune on her. But I really want Sockdolager back, if Chris decides to sell her.” </div><div><br /></div><div><b>And then he did.</b> “Would you be interested in buying her back?” he asked a few days later.
“Hell yes!” we answered, and suddenly we were all laughing. </div><div><br /></div><div>“I haven’t laughed in a long time,” said Chris. It felt good. The strangeness of how the world feels after a sudden, shocking death is perhaps a subconscious recognition that sorrow, however all-consuming, is still not big enough to contain a whole life. Maybe it’s a knowing that even in the wake of death we are supposed to bust through it and laugh in order that life can continue. The laughter itself feels strange at first, even sacrilegious, yet we do it anyway, to reclaim light from shadow. This to me is the meaning of the unbought grace of life. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgup3vsU-50tlI5p5yExfCP-lTuk1bOFj-B-O-GFEq9L9E8JqfSOb_YKRzuDv9CVA0_so8VBtUcqTVCByUF_LEeeFfhrre01CSvZw5mw5xQKaXHXLw1kcnVQB_mt-WZjUVT97Sv8kIFJca5OVcuqgC9Yc41mV6KXKycKHeQS7FllfeywKlEUq3jMRRc/s320/2%20Raven,%20Karen%20kayaking,%20Reid%20Inlet2,%20low%20res.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgup3vsU-50tlI5p5yExfCP-lTuk1bOFj-B-O-GFEq9L9E8JqfSOb_YKRzuDv9CVA0_so8VBtUcqTVCByUF_LEeeFfhrre01CSvZw5mw5xQKaXHXLw1kcnVQB_mt-WZjUVT97Sv8kIFJca5OVcuqgC9Yc41mV6KXKycKHeQS7FllfeywKlEUq3jMRRc/s1600/2%20Raven,%20Karen%20kayaking,%20Reid%20Inlet2,%20low%20res.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven at anchor, Reid Harbor, Glacier Bay National Park, 2018</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><b>All these events happened</b> while Raven was hauled out for painting. We had no idea any of them were coming to change all three of our lives.
Fast forward to January 2024, and our slip at Boat Haven now has a familiar green Dana 24 in it. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju_KPx6lytQ08DFY6FqCrtvn5xtIubC6R07X89p370uwTUkOuo_wu_Y3ncIIFeF-yKzFUTgBgrSIjj7H7QmF0lJl2pO9m-8nkduO2w9N6el2xOs2WzxhVgDhGhq39Ri6iNhFdkP8VW0Zrs1fGlKuY6NV1DX1B0AtbTchpswr6JZi-oEc2RSN461XbI/s2016/IMG_8844.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju_KPx6lytQ08DFY6FqCrtvn5xtIubC6R07X89p370uwTUkOuo_wu_Y3ncIIFeF-yKzFUTgBgrSIjj7H7QmF0lJl2pO9m-8nkduO2w9N6el2xOs2WzxhVgDhGhq39Ri6iNhFdkP8VW0Zrs1fGlKuY6NV1DX1B0AtbTchpswr6JZi-oEc2RSN461XbI/s320/IMG_8844.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look who's baaaaaaack!!</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>We are nesting like crazy, and it feels great to have her back. Raven is in another slip, all spiffed up and ready for her next owner. After my first Dana, Minstrel, and then having Sockdolager together, and now having her back in our lives again, I guess a Dana 24 is my totem animal. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: large;">So, if you’re interested in cruising</span></b> aboard a most unique 29-foot trawler that the <a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/tour/" target="_blank">Off Center Harbor</a> folks call the <b>“Swiss Army Knife of Boats,”</b> a boat that took us comfortably all the way to Glacier Bay in Alaska without having to plug in because of her two big solar panels, and have a 10-foot sailing dinghy thrown into the bargain, then <b>get in touch with us at jheumann (at) yahoo.com</b>. And visit the <a href="https://classicboatshow.com/classified/29-knutsen-custom-cruiser-2008-raven/" target="_blank">web page</a> that Off Center Harbor made for her, with photos and two videos, one a tour from her builder and former owner, Leif Knutsen, and the other an interview with Jim and me about going up the Inside Passage to Glacier Bay. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKBUl3d7ukRrqXFujKjH9U3ZiawTMiYy6sfv2SC2NTpBTYHVfhq8M674NUyMRQpw7mMiumi3J8YWZUNlDPDa_zjeM-0gxs4Co5ajhcsrJLy1Wu9X1KFA6Ys93HE7xTla20L3L1UpHob3NtNIdu_CQMWpWUBDwy67Tu1_UqCN4yHylJIYUvv7kl9dor/s2880/Raven11.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="2880" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKBUl3d7ukRrqXFujKjH9U3ZiawTMiYy6sfv2SC2NTpBTYHVfhq8M674NUyMRQpw7mMiumi3J8YWZUNlDPDa_zjeM-0gxs4Co5ajhcsrJLy1Wu9X1KFA6Ys93HE7xTla20L3L1UpHob3NtNIdu_CQMWpWUBDwy67Tu1_UqCN4yHylJIYUvv7kl9dor/s320/Raven11.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somewhere in SE Alaska at sunrise.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>We hope to pass our dear Raven on to the next owner who will love her as much as we have. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Raven's General Specifications</span></b></div><div><b> </b></div><div><b>Boat type:</b> trawler </div><div><b>Year launched:</b> 2008 </div><div><b>LOA:</b> 29’10” </div><div><b>LWL:</b> 27’ </div><div><b>Beam: </b>12’ </div><div><b>Draft:</b> 3’3” </div><div><b>Displacement:</b> 6,500 lbs. (approx.) </div><div><b>Headroom:</b> Cabin, head and enclosed deck, at least 6’5”. Aft deck in dinghy transport mode, 4’8”; in 'lounge mode,' at least 6 feet</div><div><br /></div><div><b style="caret-color: rgb(41, 48, 59); color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: medium;">A marine surveyor established a fair price for Raven of $49,500</span></b></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMIUpKpLcINFniuTWWGXZPtneqqeu_ECBA3soQqURVhF_hfCUXwFfi9cJ0OG_Jgb7bpYcd45eTQaJwtJpidKXx9gchJGxCl7-r-swGdf3sL6QvFIa-RxECXsp8GQPygoj9_w7mBSj_eCN_NWvJ76dN_femS94n_aaLAQpUkvr305LwuPGmIt2yy6Uw/s4032/IMG_0486.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMIUpKpLcINFniuTWWGXZPtneqqeu_ECBA3soQqURVhF_hfCUXwFfi9cJ0OG_Jgb7bpYcd45eTQaJwtJpidKXx9gchJGxCl7-r-swGdf3sL6QvFIa-RxECXsp8GQPygoj9_w7mBSj_eCN_NWvJ76dN_femS94n_aaLAQpUkvr305LwuPGmIt2yy6Uw/s320/IMG_0486.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven in the slings</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhuG9gJ-5-yYyD5-LLUnGOaP-gnEb9Hmbytp0MnlPUelW2EiK-2RbRjykF43yYHz9n8kdizrhJ63Ygg7dJLp_Tvuc4bdBXyT8CePqoGaIaH6EKKJ65WeQ8gv0FAeKeaV2UwFoYZYK1jPh9vWtu_uO-vJ0LBTr4KDdpwUEFH_ZCtp4qqPrUsTwued2/s450/Prop%20&%20rudder.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="337" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhuG9gJ-5-yYyD5-LLUnGOaP-gnEb9Hmbytp0MnlPUelW2EiK-2RbRjykF43yYHz9n8kdizrhJ63Ygg7dJLp_Tvuc4bdBXyT8CePqoGaIaH6EKKJ65WeQ8gv0FAeKeaV2UwFoYZYK1jPh9vWtu_uO-vJ0LBTr4KDdpwUEFH_ZCtp4qqPrUsTwued2/s320/Prop%20&%20rudder.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven's prop and rudder</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><div><b>Builder:</b> Leif Knutsen, master shipwright and co-founder of the <a href="https://ptshipwrights.com" target="_blank">Port Townsend Shipwright’s Coop</a></div><div><b>Designers:</b> Leif Knutsen and Steve Davis, N.A. </div><div><b>Make/Model: </b>Bigfoot 29 </div><div><b>Design: </b>Part Chincoteague skiff, part tugboat with some pickup truck DNA. Raven is a one-off design that can carry a massive supply of stores and provisions.</div></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAr84bXWhzxWgVq06XUIz5Qtbnr_w8gZwACsJ5uFXmzdSPjX7Mls4PtclErEFMjkeqaeN7bW1tFAcit2aPvAjYvgxiTZlwG79QvXLS89jACUMx7lhfWlDBXnVzKE_hG9vXWhRw9Euhc4v9OCDklnnO4CGFaaaPKz_pehvX2HRknNlGwafVaOkV8uL/s4032/IMG_0129.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBAr84bXWhzxWgVq06XUIz5Qtbnr_w8gZwACsJ5uFXmzdSPjX7Mls4PtclErEFMjkeqaeN7bW1tFAcit2aPvAjYvgxiTZlwG79QvXLS89jACUMx7lhfWlDBXnVzKE_hG9vXWhRw9Euhc4v9OCDklnnO4CGFaaaPKz_pehvX2HRknNlGwafVaOkV8uL/s320/IMG_0129.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim pulls the sailing dinghy inside. View from fwd cabin--note bookshelves built to hold cruising guides. Under all those floorboards is a huge amount of storage.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><br /><div><br /><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Details about her construction</span></b></div><div> </div><div><b>Hull material: </b>13 ply 3⁄4 in. full-length marine plywood core with 6 oz woven roving & epoxy on both sides. Leif made 16:1 scarfs that were router-faced on a wide jig, then glued together into full-length panels. When glued and manually lofted, one needed, as Leif says, "a magnifying glass to see the seam." This plywood was then covered with the 6 oz woven roving and epoxy, essentially making it a fiberglass hull. </div><div><b>Hull type: </b>Double chine monohull </div><div><b>Keel bolts: </b>3/4” galvanized steel </div><div><b>Keel: </b>Full, Fir planks 5 1/2 in. x 12 in. </div><div><b>Wormshoe: </b>UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) 2 in. x 6 in. </div><div><b>Stern:</b> Raven has a drop-down tailgate that allows for easy boarding via dinghy, and serves as a platform for fishing, crabbing, or sitting with drinks at sunset. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ6mhDsjqK0l7hfLhOmVWq9073Mzla9kH9qTRoQSSpO7RZffqfx2pMlC5F6qeq8Qx7FR_28yBTMw3N9jJTgQgSKo9HC8T0vSFRDJ18Fk6eiRe5K_Tx5D1A06qlzuBsCe5h_lT6cFsu4YwWSQzLvmmNzQso9hfSIeYqmHOYuV7cCrgAvw1GevrcH97P/s320/Raven%20from%20aft.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="240" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ6mhDsjqK0l7hfLhOmVWq9073Mzla9kH9qTRoQSSpO7RZffqfx2pMlC5F6qeq8Qx7FR_28yBTMw3N9jJTgQgSKo9HC8T0vSFRDJ18Fk6eiRe5K_Tx5D1A06qlzuBsCe5h_lT6cFsu4YwWSQzLvmmNzQso9hfSIeYqmHOYuV7cCrgAvw1GevrcH97P/s1600/Raven%20from%20aft.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tailgate angle is infinitely adjustable, and t<span style="text-align: left;">he sailing dinghy slides up for easy storage inside the boat. </span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Main Engine & Systems </span></b></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Type: </b>3-cylinder diesel - Yanmar 3YM20
Horsepower: 20hp </div><div><b>Fuel usage: </b>~1/2 gallon per hour at 5.5kts. As an example, to go from Port Townsend to Glacier Bay and back, taking many detours into fiords and along the "outside passage" over 4 months, we used 250 gallons of diesel.</div><div><b>Engine Hours: </b>~1500 </div><div><b>Transmission: </b>Kanzaki, mechanical</div><div><b>Steering system:</b> Teleflex Sea Star model 1.7 </div><div><b>Helm: </b>RM hydraulic system </div><div><b>Emergency steering: </b>Removable tiller connects to top of rudder shaft </div><div><b>Propeller:</b> Bronze 3-blade 18x11 LH </div><div><b>Propeller shaft:</b> 1 1/4 in. Stainless steel </div><div><b>Rudder:</b> Wood, balanced on skeg</div><div><b>Rudder post:</b> 1 ¼ inch stainless steel </div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Bilge Pumps:</b> Attwood 950 gph 12v with manual switch, manual whale gusher </div><div><b>Thru-hull fittings:</b> Bronze alloy </div><div><b>Seacocks:</b> Bronze alloy </div><div><b>Fuel filter:</b> Turbine Series Fuel Filter/Water Separator, 60 GPH </div><div><b>Engine Shaft Packing Gland:</b> Bronze nut type with flax packing </div><div><br /></div><div><div><b>Waste/Sewage:</b> AirHead composting toilet, new in 2023. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZRNfxbJTb_xr4jzjKC2MrBVpuII7k1k7vigHn3bgIWboAW3LTFMwfhHeym8PgBeLBY2d_P9y5Ye6Ed7FLW6sKegzCBkNXIujVz5CT88iHtwV4YIIemOngg26fiA07_OcsJrCwO_MsfQAgbWoaGV_cZUeD2t5F_Cpv-7Deh1REh5CUiga-Y9wTlT4S/s450/Head%20with%20new%20AirHead%20toilet.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="337" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZRNfxbJTb_xr4jzjKC2MrBVpuII7k1k7vigHn3bgIWboAW3LTFMwfhHeym8PgBeLBY2d_P9y5Ye6Ed7FLW6sKegzCBkNXIujVz5CT88iHtwV4YIIemOngg26fiA07_OcsJrCwO_MsfQAgbWoaGV_cZUeD2t5F_Cpv-7Deh1REh5CUiga-Y9wTlT4S/s320/Head%20with%20new%20AirHead%20toilet.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">AirHead composting toilet, new in 2023</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnbwfH2lsDRsUTUilZfwAwGo5jLG3AqPpSR1VbxcVMNNDzsR1xXvAaZcG5ORBCkuZDtk4tAOr7qh-sXpYRx8xsTlqE6Kgb_hl9nZEFg_jxdJoOe7ki4dfw5NlBnjr9WvME88jBJukOmOOVKBZZEBYi2EnzoqW6KYlehwF7f9vIAFczNntKpIzRzwXb/s500/IMG_5301.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="375" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnbwfH2lsDRsUTUilZfwAwGo5jLG3AqPpSR1VbxcVMNNDzsR1xXvAaZcG5ORBCkuZDtk4tAOr7qh-sXpYRx8xsTlqE6Kgb_hl9nZEFg_jxdJoOe7ki4dfw5NlBnjr9WvME88jBJukOmOOVKBZZEBYi2EnzoqW6KYlehwF7f9vIAFczNntKpIzRzwXb/s320/IMG_5301.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Head sink</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKlDxJTGpSgJLzy9hMcFDEOp573eQPtSEtA5gwP21-JWK3ayP36w3tuMKpUViV1uzRJjUHlui8k1As9ZmN7o87LCheeEI5e9rCHZyXRkTNc7SXHsiKpmcCx3jvingR7iDgwHR_NKO8X2TkC1sG1El8kP7FKLT0oF7KqnM0pQ5Ewm41gbuXv9yfCgSM/s598/Raven7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="449" data-original-width="598" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKlDxJTGpSgJLzy9hMcFDEOp573eQPtSEtA5gwP21-JWK3ayP36w3tuMKpUViV1uzRJjUHlui8k1As9ZmN7o87LCheeEI5e9rCHZyXRkTNc7SXHsiKpmcCx3jvingR7iDgwHR_NKO8X2TkC1sG1El8kP7FKLT0oF7KqnM0pQ5Ewm41gbuXv9yfCgSM/s320/Raven7.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Double door encloses the head (no ventilation problems there) and swings shut to close the main cabin. Also visible is an alternate dining area with fold-down table.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Tankage </span></b></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Diesel</b>: Two 35 gallon aluminum tanks</div><div><b>Water: </b>Two 25 gallon flexible bladder tanks, filtered</div><div><b>Water pump: </b>12volt </div><div><b>Propane: </b>Two 40 lb. tanks, solenoid valve, locker open to cockpit & with overboard vent </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfe3VVcZCXJymdbGc4tewVXL1Zg8roB3tBVZelyw6ROUA8KNYTIlRCt7wTIqH4iSxKNmBbful3r46oSsv_BzsNP-hix1083ZT2BOkduCVF_2YPqTkxyIPU8JLAQJ3732WJIJKrfC2nwtYdKiy0DIlLIYz68FhUkqw8vdE5mEDHl2f0TLCLZIVhy-Jr/s450/Propane%20locker.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="337" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfe3VVcZCXJymdbGc4tewVXL1Zg8roB3tBVZelyw6ROUA8KNYTIlRCt7wTIqH4iSxKNmBbful3r46oSsv_BzsNP-hix1083ZT2BOkduCVF_2YPqTkxyIPU8JLAQJ3732WJIJKrfC2nwtYdKiy0DIlLIYz68FhUkqw8vdE5mEDHl2f0TLCLZIVhy-Jr/s320/Propane%20locker.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Propane locker vents overboard.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Galley, Refrigeration & Heat</span></b></div><div><br /></div><div><div><b>Stove:</b> Force 10 2-burner stove with oven & broiler, new in 2014 </div><div><b>Barbecue:</b> Magma, stainless, new in 2022 </div><div><b>Refrigeration:</b> Dometic CoolFreeze CF-40 </div><div><b>Heat #1:</b> Propex Heatsource 2800 propane heater 10,000 btu </div><div><b>Heat #2: </b>REAL Heat 6013 5,300 Btu Marine Hydronic Fan Heater (heats via engine) </div><div><b>Sinks:</b> Two, stainless steel </div></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXh6yISJbZXio3blSqylKVMEtlltson0JPmaMAkau4_OzouZsIZx1bwWF4DU4W19XfKApSTV6-BhLefP3gvrurTbn3KFF1561W_lsDRU-vUquRVz89PZckYazS3sECOZtNJOKG_f72HvK929OjoXc9TAk7J8mxYnEXVQMb8mEmV8UPrl5U0vcvaXo/s2520/Raven4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1890" data-original-width="2520" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXh6yISJbZXio3blSqylKVMEtlltson0JPmaMAkau4_OzouZsIZx1bwWF4DU4W19XfKApSTV6-BhLefP3gvrurTbn3KFF1561W_lsDRU-vUquRVz89PZckYazS3sECOZtNJOKG_f72HvK929OjoXc9TAk7J8mxYnEXVQMb8mEmV8UPrl5U0vcvaXo/s320/Raven4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galley - 2-burner Force 10 stove with oven & broiler</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Wz3hwFpw11-0bh-hbl4e8NxPLm-Gcos2y34rAW77GaXc0XF1evgJXmtfvGzyKXxWiwwCR_N2iH904qaOMB3RfqRlkL1rWjtIQTnUhleRQ7mxs4ZkjBBUW1p5CFWdf1p-mF-ZvHJt7fTeJKNbOWyvKpHuFhHmDgBDWzoUFHom7KpR9IkK-PPhnbDU/s4032/IMG_8383.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Wz3hwFpw11-0bh-hbl4e8NxPLm-Gcos2y34rAW77GaXc0XF1evgJXmtfvGzyKXxWiwwCR_N2iH904qaOMB3RfqRlkL1rWjtIQTnUhleRQ7mxs4ZkjBBUW1p5CFWdf1p-mF-ZvHJt7fTeJKNbOWyvKpHuFhHmDgBDWzoUFHom7KpR9IkK-PPhnbDU/s320/IMG_8383.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner is served. Four can eat here, on the covered deck. If it's just two and the weather's cold, you can eat down below.</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr8VvRxRFweMZCW6S0Z7TiQTiTxm2Tcik_M2kNorEj-3I4XuHFTeyhCCnTqE8WV33jCFl5xF-DZ7mpz3WRWkzOl7Anl8Oki3UlpIkbk4qY5mPdLdQsA9Tb5LipSlpr-6rChshhdiRuxX7MnbrefHoR3DLo853Ai6bUdgeGnEj8QRY9BRdhNEukNMt7/s320/13%20DInner%20aboard%20Raven.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="240" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr8VvRxRFweMZCW6S0Z7TiQTiTxm2Tcik_M2kNorEj-3I4XuHFTeyhCCnTqE8WV33jCFl5xF-DZ7mpz3WRWkzOl7Anl8Oki3UlpIkbk4qY5mPdLdQsA9Tb5LipSlpr-6rChshhdiRuxX7MnbrefHoR3DLo853Ai6bUdgeGnEj8QRY9BRdhNEukNMt7/s1600/13%20DInner%20aboard%20Raven.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Six can comfortably dine in 'lounge mode.'</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAaPPruz0uBUH9jB94KYK8WpNLYoLlpxHWG15oncBR_CBhIxkX9yCq6yCGFxzxgdn-QiIt0vCdQFQ1ZAlkLHQ4sHEcuOiCkrA_6IOKq8cmf1WNuQv5oPmB6QMEmNvHYQGjcrcU1m7SyULQH9K7pkuGVAgjcInkUgrdx2dGDr6vGFXxLmLDSij1GJyv/s600/Table%20for%202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAaPPruz0uBUH9jB94KYK8WpNLYoLlpxHWG15oncBR_CBhIxkX9yCq6yCGFxzxgdn-QiIt0vCdQFQ1ZAlkLHQ4sHEcuOiCkrA_6IOKq8cmf1WNuQv5oPmB6QMEmNvHYQGjcrcU1m7SyULQH9K7pkuGVAgjcInkUgrdx2dGDr6vGFXxLmLDSij1GJyv/s320/Table%20for%202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...or, you can have a private table for two.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Electronics and Navigation Equipment </span></b></div><div><br /></div><div><b>VHF:</b> Standard Horizon MATRIX AIS/GPS GK 2200 VHF with loud hailer </div><div><b>GPS:</b> Garmin GPS700 chart plotter </div><div><b>Radar:</b> Garmin 18 HD+ Radar </div><div><b>Depth finder:</b> AIRMAR P79 depth/sonar/fish finder </div><div><b>Barometer:</b> WEEMS & PLATH Electronic barometer with gale alarm </div><div><b>Rudder angle:</b> Raritan Rudder angle indicator </div><div><b>Autopilot:</b> Raymarine SmartPilot SPX-10 autopilot </div><div><b>Compass:</b> Ritchie magnetic compass </div><div><b>Electrical System
A/C:</b> 120 volt
Shore Power: 30 amp with smart plug
GFCI Protected </div><div><b>Outlets:</b> Yes</div><div><b>12 volt
House Batteries: </b>Two 100AH 31M-PC2150ST Odyssey sealed AGM </div><div><b>Starting Battery:</b> One 80 AH 34M-PC1500ST Odyssey sealed AGM </div><div><b>Battery charger:</b> DeltaVolt Sportsman series Uni Pro model SS1 - 10 amp </div><div><b>Battery switch:</b> Blue Sea SI-ACR </div><div><b>Automatic Charging Relay with Start Isolation
Solar panels:</b> Two 150-watt solar panels </div><div><b>Charge controllers:</b> Two GENASUN GV-10 12V 10.5 amp charge controllers </div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Deck Equipment, Hardware & Ground Tackle</span></b></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Nav Lights:</b> LED</div><div><b>Anchor light:</b> LED </div><div><b>Interior lights:</b> LED </div><div><b>High-power spotlights:</b> Two Rigid Industries DUALLY XL LED </div><div><b>Chain locker:</b> Foredeck recess open area accessed via forward cabin </div><div><b>Bow Anchor/Rode: </b>33 lb. Spade; 70’ of chain and 250’ of 9/16” mega-braid 12-strand nylon rode </div><div><b>Stern Anchor/ Rode: </b>33 lb. Bruce; 10’ of 5/16 g3 chain; 300’ of 9/16 nylon three-strand rode </div><div><b>Windlass: </b>Lewmar Pro-Fish 1000 12v </div><div><b>Deck Hardware:</b> Sampson posts, mooring cleats, belaying pins </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy2Ks9VUAnV67FQ-TgJ8mMWYSsLQGh9foeXrgiI-QDPrtx-L5dStvJXChKVj9GamXR_6wckYa9xEQYT-eKXiYUmhsBeAwtrfbbhrQVsNStjYwi79YdKHtxGI7jzBM4X0IJhBdn5tkRe5Fl5Za_IHck3k_o5A2hc12hPhnBlBld13pHnjupVS3UETOA/s450/Sailing%20dinghy%20stored%20inside.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="337" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy2Ks9VUAnV67FQ-TgJ8mMWYSsLQGh9foeXrgiI-QDPrtx-L5dStvJXChKVj9GamXR_6wckYa9xEQYT-eKXiYUmhsBeAwtrfbbhrQVsNStjYwi79YdKHtxGI7jzBM4X0IJhBdn5tkRe5Fl5Za_IHck3k_o5A2hc12hPhnBlBld13pHnjupVS3UETOA/s320/Sailing%20dinghy%20stored%20inside.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing dinghy stored inside.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Interior/Accommodations </span></b></div><div><br /></div><div>Belowdecks is a forward trunk cabin with sitting area that converts to port & starboard single berths, plus storage compartments on both sides and galley sink aft. With some woodworking and design innovation, there is enough room to convert them into one large double. </div><div><br /></div><div>An aft step leads up to the wheelhouse area with its forward, aft and side windows and a steering station with helm chair to starboard. Near the wheelhouse chair to port is the galley area with stove, sink and counter space. A double door aft leads out to a large covered deck with enclosed head compartment containing toilet and sink. The open aft cockpit with high bulwark and storage shelves has adjustable seats included for use as port & starboard sitting areas or additional single berths.
</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Sleeping capacity: </b>Two/four </div><div><div><b>Cushions in cabin:</b> Closed-cell foam covered with upholstery fabric </div><div><b>Wheelhouse seats:</b> Thin cushions topped with sheepskins for winter cruising warmth. </div><div><b>Cushions for deck lounging:</b> Four adjustable folding chair-cushions that lay flat for napping </div></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmAcmg2qCN7Dpyv7E-Wufu2aXXdAyK4tpNwiPNuAoFOkQ8D-yquTevweDm3GuS2A-OCzq89fO0Y_kEPBVd7D1hTaiZMeDdzSrPStQaYHzHAP43PSNRM8J5x9ptV7tj30kQPYdAE4Z0fz4M_mUQYo4KjfOzUFm_fH3VLpoVFTN3-bTTxlpQTVvvL6X5/s600/Cabin.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmAcmg2qCN7Dpyv7E-Wufu2aXXdAyK4tpNwiPNuAoFOkQ8D-yquTevweDm3GuS2A-OCzq89fO0Y_kEPBVd7D1hTaiZMeDdzSrPStQaYHzHAP43PSNRM8J5x9ptV7tj30kQPYdAE4Z0fz4M_mUQYo4KjfOzUFm_fH3VLpoVFTN3-bTTxlpQTVvvL6X5/s320/Cabin.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forward cabin. Clothing storage to starboard, pots and pans to port. Ladder to foredeck is removable and can also be stowed against the bulkhead. Sink is under the carving board cover.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsDePKrVPqy64HsF4PTNeGbg_-f1r9P2WJ_M7VMvV0ZVVK5J-ob1TGpk2HqP-Ufp5RT53o25PVAPbwlFDfhXdAZ2FsOliEVID3ce0ysOGyYqQZw_HwUhnbzf8wyanaU5bau7L3W6rS1EuiAhYoD-dwdUb6PD0ZlBPYxkydphgQSk6PhJ_5lK9mTuTR/s600/Cabin,%20berths%20made%20up.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsDePKrVPqy64HsF4PTNeGbg_-f1r9P2WJ_M7VMvV0ZVVK5J-ob1TGpk2HqP-Ufp5RT53o25PVAPbwlFDfhXdAZ2FsOliEVID3ce0ysOGyYqQZw_HwUhnbzf8wyanaU5bau7L3W6rS1EuiAhYoD-dwdUb6PD0ZlBPYxkydphgQSk6PhJ_5lK9mTuTR/s320/Cabin,%20berths%20made%20up.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Berths made up. Two of the wheelhouse floorboards can serve as bunk leeboards. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Safety Equipment </span></b></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Throw rings:</b> One </div><div><b>Portable Fire Extinguishers:</b> Two ABC Dry chemical 5 lb. </div><div><b>Propane detector:</b> XINTEX S-1 propane fume detector </div><div><b>Exhaust overheat alarm:</b> Aqualarm wet exhaust overheat alarm </div><div><b>Bilge fan: </b>Yes </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIT2OMst3kjVxlfqZ-X2OVWZDi7PtQmdGNIfCjuKYntZFLfMrI84z85Ujw9dNysFWS_0F0uEXEY4I_fQjFeayL4sCuNNQWG8oSMDI12nHOOIuheA5TVxT_l-Vni-0MBXbnzjyFo17T0Ine0Py_8sbZQqJmTpuxT05EjpppCfa6hK6QeNDyaOZFTHDq/s500/Raven12.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="375" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIT2OMst3kjVxlfqZ-X2OVWZDi7PtQmdGNIfCjuKYntZFLfMrI84z85Ujw9dNysFWS_0F0uEXEY4I_fQjFeayL4sCuNNQWG8oSMDI12nHOOIuheA5TVxT_l-Vni-0MBXbnzjyFo17T0Ine0Py_8sbZQqJmTpuxT05EjpppCfa6hK6QeNDyaOZFTHDq/s320/Raven12.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little details, like this carved seabird that captures a swing-down interior window, are a delight.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Miscellaneous</span></b></div><div><br /></div><div>Spare Starter for Yanmar diesel engine </div><div><b>Chart storage:</b> In overhead rack in wheelhouse. </div><div><b>Cruising guide storage: </b>Around and beneath starboard wheelhouse seat </div><div><b>Below decks storage:</b> Extensive </div><div><div><b>Side and stern covers: </b>“Top Gun” waterproof fabric (2015) re-stitched and re-waterproofed with “Aqua-Tite” in 2023. </div></div><div><b>Bar</b> that converts to a fish-cleaning station</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwo9JkA5_sI8JLUb04oGGykUAS9HE7UTvyktXjRu-IeXytWqq9eh3ftAsabeETTMdwhqHkzxv4Jocv1ET9YTl7NU44_lnWx0yZhtjoMU9A9BQuaCoDnjJPGbiuzUh9NQkUDwivd93htxtZypsXSvvEWjD2bN5VDPzABDcVUTH_Ll4lpoCVHmuPFYFk/s600/Bar.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwo9JkA5_sI8JLUb04oGGykUAS9HE7UTvyktXjRu-IeXytWqq9eh3ftAsabeETTMdwhqHkzxv4Jocv1ET9YTl7NU44_lnWx0yZhtjoMU9A9BQuaCoDnjJPGbiuzUh9NQkUDwivd93htxtZypsXSvvEWjD2bN5VDPzABDcVUTH_Ll4lpoCVHmuPFYFk/s320/Bar.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven's bar</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilTwU8Bp2DAKfMZM1ha288Nx0kO_NpW00YocotFHtkfQ0VVZDuzentGHADSDn0EHzPxO833yju19w0P_5sjf4lBTMBeaUefJSK21Uyive7M6jPek5VQW68vHM9pDgRkyNnR7x0lJdn9CHtNjuq1gtOdgQDXO1MmTimDCABc0FIK3otAx02zcR6tiS9/s600/Fish%20cleaning%20station.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilTwU8Bp2DAKfMZM1ha288Nx0kO_NpW00YocotFHtkfQ0VVZDuzentGHADSDn0EHzPxO833yju19w0P_5sjf4lBTMBeaUefJSK21Uyive7M6jPek5VQW68vHM9pDgRkyNnR7x0lJdn9CHtNjuq1gtOdgQDXO1MmTimDCABc0FIK3otAx02zcR6tiS9/s320/Fish%20cleaning%20station.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same, but as a fish cleaning station</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Maintenance:</b> Well maintained; maintenance log available. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Price: $49,500</span></b></div><div><br /></div><div> <b>Contact Jim at:</b> jheumann (at) yahoo.com</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8GqPlqiKR1Lkvqo70qnUdaE_RR6a3ppg_1g6BWx_fnXnJjpkrR17sAW9EzmuVMWqwLyBWmPEI951xSEyfCTj0fWy-9x54RoNtr_5hNBYHGZuB7nmNWpiUEGxnhqLOCvGL8lOvooJAzZnBEdAi4EO8tVKnj96SFuqrKKScbFesmuFdE9QoTZDTQTsF/s4032/Raven13.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8GqPlqiKR1Lkvqo70qnUdaE_RR6a3ppg_1g6BWx_fnXnJjpkrR17sAW9EzmuVMWqwLyBWmPEI951xSEyfCTj0fWy-9x54RoNtr_5hNBYHGZuB7nmNWpiUEGxnhqLOCvGL8lOvooJAzZnBEdAi4EO8tVKnj96SFuqrKKScbFesmuFdE9QoTZDTQTsF/s320/Raven13.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had an unbelievable amount of fun with Raven, and will miss her.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div>Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-65232663695768643332019-09-04T21:34:00.000-07:002019-09-04T21:34:23.709-07:00Stealth Pizza, the Coast Guard, and other Delights<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>2633</o:Words>
<o:Characters>15014</o:Characters>
<o:Company>none</o:Company>
<o:Lines>125</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>35</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>17612</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
</style>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEd6ho3U16KonY1UmPHaBvoiziBjmE_cwDR3A64ur2f7M1IJKyNxxc8hxd9MKLVQuz4Q1EGS2u-zRzv8fOT9YlCEvEW-U4itHGAS1FOhQ51qzsodwCcBYNf4W1XswchkVqblms-48P/s1600/1+Maiden+pizza+delivery+by+Eliz+Becker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEd6ho3U16KonY1UmPHaBvoiziBjmE_cwDR3A64ur2f7M1IJKyNxxc8hxd9MKLVQuz4Q1EGS2u-zRzv8fOT9YlCEvEW-U4itHGAS1FOhQ51qzsodwCcBYNf4W1XswchkVqblms-48P/s320/1+Maiden+pizza+delivery+by+Eliz+Becker.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven delivers pizza at sea to Maiden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>There’s a lot to report,</b> and Raven has once again found
herself in the middle of things. Fun things. Exciting things. Occasionally weird,
hilarious things.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We tend to write fewer but longer blog posts, so if this
one’s too long, just break it up into small segments to consume with your
morning cereal for a few days.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you haven’t seen Off Center Harbor’s video of us aboard
Raven from last summer, with photos and footage from Alaska, <u><a href="https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/going-slow-small-simple-inside-passage-alaska/?prev=yes" target="_blank">here it is</a></u>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1r3iDj7OMTFlwz-XjbR19PZivsifSDMJQ1G8ueSuz5jvHVA1amF5224fF4s8mShhEL4n6NqkmkvRzIzIyymY15WTUSP__CpIsOaaHerbXS5NzEEYDMIhApnczCK_YfqrEcqZQ42Y/s1600/2+Raven%252C+Karen+kayaking%252C+Reid+Inlet2%252C+low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1r3iDj7OMTFlwz-XjbR19PZivsifSDMJQ1G8ueSuz5jvHVA1amF5224fF4s8mShhEL4n6NqkmkvRzIzIyymY15WTUSP__CpIsOaaHerbXS5NzEEYDMIhApnczCK_YfqrEcqZQ42Y/s1600/2+Raven%252C+Karen+kayaking%252C+Reid+Inlet2%252C+low+res.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From last summer-Reid Harbor at Glacier Bay, Alaska</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Stealth pizza
delivery boat:</b> As you may recall from a <u><a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/2016/10/turning-page.html" target="_blank">previous post</a></u>, Raven got a
bit of a, uh, “reputation,” shall we say, for becoming a floating pub for Robin
Knox-Johnston and other luminaries, and also for delivering pizza and other
goodies to a series of hungry, round-the-world sailors inbound from a long cold
grueling North Pacific crossing. With our friends and Clipper racers Tom and
Alex aboard, we’d dashed out to as many of the racing boats as we could and
tossed them bags of fresh oranges, bread, sandwich fixins, cookies, and in one
case, that of Clipper skipper Wendy Tuck, we delivered pizza, because we’d read
on her blog that she was lusting for it. What we didn’t know back then was
she’d been thrown across the boat offshore and had broken a rib, and that pizza
was like manna from heaven. It put a warm spot in Wendy’s heart (and stomach)
for Port Townsend, so this year when we heard that not only had our friend <u><a href="https://www.kacicronkhite.com/" target="_blank">Kaci Cronkhite</a></u> arranged for the famous racing sailboat <u><a href="https://www.themaidenfactor.org/worldtour/itinerary/current?fbclid=IwAR3wA931ipfBqXpSfD7fOrE1K0FboOH-ICGMjpJY5mn6_lOKryLIS_wyiNU" target="_blank">Maiden</a></u> to do a
2-hour mid-August pit stop in Port Townsend, but also that Wendy Tuck is her
captain, well… for the good ole Raven, it was damn the anchovies, pile on the cheese, and full speed
ahead. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">With our stealth pizza aboard, along with Jim and our crew for the day
Denis Wang and Bill Ferry, we cast off our lines and headed out. To lay in
wait. We just loooove ambushes. Maiden was coming up Admiralty Inlet from
Seattle, and we stationed ourselves just west of the point of Marrowstone
Island, so that they’d see us when they rounded the corner. Just as Maiden was
rounding it, I called them on the VHF radio: “Maiden, Maiden, this is the motor
vessel Raven. Welcome to Port Townsend.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Suddenly a voice, excited: “RAVEN!!!! This is Maiden!” It
was Wendy herself.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Maiden, Raven here, we are just around the corner, and we
have some pizza for you.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sound of cheering and laughter in background. Also, sight of
someone jumping up and down. Also, sound of someone else asking, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Did we order a pizza? Do we need to get
cash?</i> “Raven, this is Maiden. THANK YOU! This is wonderful! I have to
explain this tradition to my crew.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
More excited conversation and laughter ensued over the radio,
and we half-expected the Coast Guard to break in and say TONE IT DOWN, LADIES. But
they didn’t.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The crew was fully briefed about the pizza delivery
tradition, Maiden put fenders over the side, steered a steady course at about 4
knots, and Raven came alongside with Jim manning her boathook and lifting the
string-tied pizza over to them. Cheers all around! Here’s a <u><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B17TeICJuuo&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR2cX3kNhB1n9DbWeDujAPufR0Yk9CJb2P0_IMF6bxn5xvBqPZ0EKPLIG-Y&app=desktop" target="_blank">video of the handoff</a></u>. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1zkF5Xf5_4exbqKg7DsE4ZRENcY6Ns8QdYhySaIfZU9yZpxgavWTWwjaBQOwAIrfFkgiY4V_pSo3-R6ZZK5cflNLUmaGNr7RqLPvicagJUVmMld8hyseVlhpJRpgGrP0Zwr5pLB3b/s1600/3+Pizza+handoff+to+Maiden+-+B+Ferry+photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="538" data-original-width="960" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1zkF5Xf5_4exbqKg7DsE4ZRENcY6Ns8QdYhySaIfZU9yZpxgavWTWwjaBQOwAIrfFkgiY4V_pSo3-R6ZZK5cflNLUmaGNr7RqLPvicagJUVmMld8hyseVlhpJRpgGrP0Zwr5pLB3b/s320/3+Pizza+handoff+to+Maiden+-+B+Ferry+photo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pizza handoff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Maiden then allowed Raven and an armada of welcoming boats
to lead her across the bay toward Port Townsend. A huge crowd—some say as many
as 1,500 people—was waiting on the pier, on the maritime Center balconies, and all across the beach, cheering and
applauding.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimVsnM9SKOoLwIjlRXFOCswwPWDBJDXpHA8UfAxaurG-NNpJKu7v43HVwJwi-4KTEVNfn8Zkz9a627krtiu5EEQkOwBET9gSeV9C1oPuG9j981o6enpERbgdMjbTw8azSN9xvYy8ag/s1600/4+Maiden+at+dock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="474" data-original-width="713" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimVsnM9SKOoLwIjlRXFOCswwPWDBJDXpHA8UfAxaurG-NNpJKu7v43HVwJwi-4KTEVNfn8Zkz9a627krtiu5EEQkOwBET9gSeV9C1oPuG9j981o6enpERbgdMjbTw8azSN9xvYy8ag/s320/4+Maiden+at+dock.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Huge reception at the dock, Port Townsend</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The <u><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AecVJ3Br4zc" target="_blank">movie, Maiden</a>,</u> was showing that week at Port
Townsend’s own <a href="https://rosetheatre.com/film/maiden?fbclid=IwAR2uDsbtZ_3sSBR8EAwg23kqbrQNHkPUD3W0qvhdIbX4C8ncbKSKdP6dx5w" target="_blank"><u>Rose Theater</u>,</a> so everyone was very excited. If you
haven’t seen it, do—it’s quite astonishing what those women accomplished, and
if you don’t get a tear in your eye <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">you</i> can buy <i>me</i> pizza. The crowd gave the Maiden crew a warm welcome, with Hip!
Hip! Hooray! echoing, and banners flying, and speeches and our town’s
magnificent female sailing cognoscenti on the dock to take lines and welcome
them.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOdSShbCIH6O3X2G9GtY8oFDjkSB0bSFCvWugHZ4p4CwPAQpN_HjjKbk1m7uoAMvWbC0pH0G-oBFvxv354Nvk9C8C2NlULWGfPJVx1VfRa3ZnHeH43vws-4ymt_VKeJQ_3I7hVdg81/s1600/5+Kaci+greets+Wendy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOdSShbCIH6O3X2G9GtY8oFDjkSB0bSFCvWugHZ4p4CwPAQpN_HjjKbk1m7uoAMvWbC0pH0G-oBFvxv354Nvk9C8C2NlULWGfPJVx1VfRa3ZnHeH43vws-4ymt_VKeJQ_3I7hVdg81/s320/5+Kaci+greets+Wendy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kaci Cronkhite welcomes the skipper & crew of Maiden. Carol Hasse was there and gave a lovely speech.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWsdD7pVNtVTiz9OI1hD0Dc_rr5aClE-CZ-RhlNBSihQSQhw9qip9hRkEcBuM1cuSNXR64bzjFbKdFegNnregRA1CTFJuFdp7E14jPF5yMDJAyINglrIu15l9ZpscTdoorbx9a9yrT/s1600/6+Karen+meets+Wendy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWsdD7pVNtVTiz9OI1hD0Dc_rr5aClE-CZ-RhlNBSihQSQhw9qip9hRkEcBuM1cuSNXR64bzjFbKdFegNnregRA1CTFJuFdp7E14jPF5yMDJAyINglrIu15l9ZpscTdoorbx9a9yrT/s320/6+Karen+meets+Wendy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen (not cognoscenti) discusses Raven's next pizza delivery with Wendy Tuck</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After a small ceremony and a brief but steady stream of boat
tours, Maiden was off again, for San Francisco, then Los Angeles, and south
toward Valparaiso, then Cape Horn and beyond. All the way around. With a pizza
in the oven as she went out the Strait on a bumpy night. We escorted her out of
the bay toward Point Wilson, and after swooping close past us for a final
goodbye, off she went into the night.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9RtECmjYdtFQKpxatG4k6AMYcgOune1p3HZwqxh6yh6qfeP503_FFcGhu-hXc1r2fcf4u8385lvBEOmmWSR631-r4qL9ZfF7fH_s7ijYDvKAOYOEFYQqIjQOn_nd0s7XGXbvWDH9/s1600/7+Maiden+sails+out+of+PT.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9RtECmjYdtFQKpxatG4k6AMYcgOune1p3HZwqxh6yh6qfeP503_FFcGhu-hXc1r2fcf4u8385lvBEOmmWSR631-r4qL9ZfF7fH_s7ijYDvKAOYOEFYQqIjQOn_nd0s7XGXbvWDH9/s400/7+Maiden+sails+out+of+PT.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maiden swoops past Raven for a final goodbye</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUm0nDUI1XPd4ncgidpKj2ZgaGMfmggQAHzYhKtCZCby64FwNCQE5_MLabu4iZJgxtEljDFEJdvq8ajUFFTfYWr2xzSLhhsxjeZkGiHZ4fzjiwCJXRAhf3ShBRI5lTIz5cDwZRK1Kf/s1600/8+cape-horn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="485" data-original-width="720" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUm0nDUI1XPd4ncgidpKj2ZgaGMfmggQAHzYhKtCZCby64FwNCQE5_MLabu4iZJgxtEljDFEJdvq8ajUFFTfYWr2xzSLhhsxjeZkGiHZ4fzjiwCJXRAhf3ShBRI5lTIz5cDwZRK1Kf/s320/8+cape-horn.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It seems like everyone's headed for Cape Horn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Adieu for now to a
great sailor:</b> In late August Raven crossed the Strait to Canada, to anchor
in Cadboro Bay, about 4 miles east of Victoria’s Inner Harbour. The Royal
Victoria Yacht Club is there, and our friends Cathy and Bill Norrie, who are
members, have a Bristol Channel Cutter named Pixie, that is so beautiful and seaworthy that just one look at it will
roll your socks up and down. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjtAl6lOwBOwwWRo9ZGE-Gsr5JjFHhB6qzyM_3etfR-270s4-0r5vibsqyEirSbnG9ThWbgqaVJKTqIww1wQ7eorNvjcPE73rEhXMm0Wfk9yHY4Pvmjhm-eMotNXQtj8lYuAqC4SDb/s1600/8a+Bill+aboard+Pixie+at+RVYC.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjtAl6lOwBOwwWRo9ZGE-Gsr5JjFHhB6qzyM_3etfR-270s4-0r5vibsqyEirSbnG9ThWbgqaVJKTqIww1wQ7eorNvjcPE73rEhXMm0Wfk9yHY4Pvmjhm-eMotNXQtj8lYuAqC4SDb/s320/8a+Bill+aboard+Pixie+at+RVYC.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bill Norrie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitqmgf464vBCpckZ7IT8iYeE3nyrjg37xvD_xDpJB6msXypH9-mKAORxUmBPQ6GrLQOOS1zgj2vXi4Csen_2oRu_hFknDzhq6D4Vg1XDZWFpc_V5wJx23xfNf6xiP2MSXN9JMgp0PA/s1600/8b+Cathy+on+Pixie.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitqmgf464vBCpckZ7IT8iYeE3nyrjg37xvD_xDpJB6msXypH9-mKAORxUmBPQ6GrLQOOS1zgj2vXi4Csen_2oRu_hFknDzhq6D4Vg1XDZWFpc_V5wJx23xfNf6xiP2MSXN9JMgp0PA/s320/8b+Cathy+on+Pixie.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathy Norrie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I was also amazed to see that Lin and Larry Pardey had given their Cape Horn charts to Bill, and as we gazed at them in Pixie's cabin, Larry’s precise
navigation marks showed the track they had made, the one we’ve all read about. It was
wonderful to see.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKb7qU2uZ8ZUQcrQrgi7EtZGEn3UsObwR5HNZr30-U7YrOvuh5sQXltA897kAFcojp0-k2ULdJJQrr-f5L5Suz8x_418ULlTj8w09Sf0UzO95yiuPO8hAcYW6lMTxPpv0chM4-VHCq/s1600/9+capehorn.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="426" data-original-width="426" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKb7qU2uZ8ZUQcrQrgi7EtZGEn3UsObwR5HNZr30-U7YrOvuh5sQXltA897kAFcojp0-k2ULdJJQrr-f5L5Suz8x_418ULlTj8w09Sf0UzO95yiuPO8hAcYW6lMTxPpv0chM4-VHCq/s320/9+capehorn.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cape Horn has a fearsome reputation, but Bill wants to sail close enough to get a good photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bill and Cathy had already <a href="https://www.sailblogs.com/member/williamnorrie" target="_blank">circumnavigated aboard theirPacific Seacraft 37, Terrwyn</a>, back around the same time we were sailing our
Dana 24, Sockdolager, to New Zealand. So it’s not like Bill doesn’t know what
he’s in for. His dream is to sail around the world mostly nonstop, and on
Monday September 2, he left Canada for Hobart, Tasmania, nonstop via Cape Horn,
where the Atlantic, Pacific and Southern Oceans collide. After rounding Cape
Horn he may stop at South Georgia Island. From there he’ll go past the Cape of
Good Hope and Cape Leeuwin. You can see where he is and follow his mini-blog at
<u><a href="https://my.yb.tl/Pixiesails" target="_blank">Pixiesails</a>,</u><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> or you can search for PixieSails on Facebook.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">He could hardly wait to get offshore and be out at sea,
solo. He loves it out there. His planning, preparation, knowledge and skills are second to none.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjipRvQ1lhkSDZNx7XhIdj8JoNMrZLJ4nqkVc87Lbww8btpZdCXrDr2zkXlkpzkPSzUJXNJUytygJXXbw5914OiM2AerMMz2lSf76j961iD30FGf1aLrTHJqWouUZc86-nPmbUtUBeZ/s1600/9a+Bill+in+dress+blue+%2526+white+aboard+Pixie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="899" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjipRvQ1lhkSDZNx7XhIdj8JoNMrZLJ4nqkVc87Lbww8btpZdCXrDr2zkXlkpzkPSzUJXNJUytygJXXbw5914OiM2AerMMz2lSf76j961iD30FGf1aLrTHJqWouUZc86-nPmbUtUBeZ/s400/9a+Bill+in+dress+blue+%2526+white+aboard+Pixie.jpg" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bill in his fancy duds at the departure party</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the night, unseen, he passed <u><a href="https://www.svnereida.com/" target="_blank">Jeanne Socrates aboard Nereida</a></u>
on her way in to Victoria, finishing a second solo nonstop circumnavigation, at
age 77. She’s the oldest human, male or female, to have circumnavigated like
this. One of her friends called her on her Satellite phone during Bill’s goodbye
party, and it was great to hear her voice. She sounded strong and happy.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s 7,900 miles to Cape Horn. He’ll be approaching it in
late November or early December. So Bill, we wish you the fairest of winds, and
low seas, and strong hands for hanging on, and clear eyes for seeing your way
to a safe return in a year or so. Cathy will be waiting for you, surrounded by
her many friends and family.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuZntq0ECjxWTRU1IbHc8mdVZI1E00muEZXvcvLNBKvrDz8P74upwSe-rqqJh9ppvYOVJMVooi680YOZLXaniZX-iaN6A9bQ6slFoS1mc_gq-gAoihh_A946xx8YdjYUjphe5wV9gQ/s1600/10+Bill+leaves+the+dock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="899" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuZntq0ECjxWTRU1IbHc8mdVZI1E00muEZXvcvLNBKvrDz8P74upwSe-rqqJh9ppvYOVJMVooi680YOZLXaniZX-iaN6A9bQ6slFoS1mc_gq-gAoihh_A946xx8YdjYUjphe5wV9gQ/s400/10+Bill+leaves+the+dock.jpg" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A dozen pairs of hands guided Pixie out of her slip </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As Bill cast off his lines with the help of his many
friends, he set sail and did a swoop past the docks full of cheering
well-wishers.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivP9LAFQHnldWW3toJWE10NTORuASceO8KueJUrAtHfO1AKIhuTBItH3mbNYGajilWtK8K_EwHWZ_atxGq_9nUtRrxwRHstyr3Um6fdqjdbBNvxlxnhLcXG_N6eB4VBuww-FsksSOM/s1600/11+Pixie+under+sail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="899" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivP9LAFQHnldWW3toJWE10NTORuASceO8KueJUrAtHfO1AKIhuTBItH3mbNYGajilWtK8K_EwHWZ_atxGq_9nUtRrxwRHstyr3Um6fdqjdbBNvxlxnhLcXG_N6eB4VBuww-FsksSOM/s400/11+Pixie+under+sail.jpg" width="223" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Aboard Raven, we took Cathy out several miles to accompany
Bill on this beginning. As Pixie sailed close alongside Raven she was
breathtaking in her sheer exuberant beauty, heeling slightly, wavelets
splashing across her chainplates with the promise of much more splashing to
come.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZnQwEs33PW8KW-1bGTkTThOLocAJ-BEpZH2ciEziX9VLkvebqbtIRv6GQE_CAkRRXXWluzRhl6O9jRJ0Jmh2UgjkN8JcOm3UWRoFSODP9nDv8khhd_GZ_xhDlInyD3iBZU0hGhJj3/s1600/13+Pixie+under+sail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="899" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZnQwEs33PW8KW-1bGTkTThOLocAJ-BEpZH2ciEziX9VLkvebqbtIRv6GQE_CAkRRXXWluzRhl6O9jRJ0Jmh2UgjkN8JcOm3UWRoFSODP9nDv8khhd_GZ_xhDlInyD3iBZU0hGhJj3/s400/13+Pixie+under+sail.jpg" width="223" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bill looked ecstatic and Cathy was, as you might expect, a
mix of emotion, mostly happy for Bill but also full of concern for his safety.
She’s one brave woman. And he’s a chaser of dreams who loves the sea, and
sailing, and living life to its fullest, more than almost anyone we know. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnrohkr6VNP4lTEovLILnY81z7o-KaXw4kq1a1RLjPBDZF5FaamRVCX6oMTEbUGvRqgulq9EiqpgaIS_gwhj31mPgupjZxt1j8ZzqXbqNDtbx5p4wrdYGqhEg6LeMhMr8z8u0UzaJe/s1600/12+Pixie+under+sail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="899" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnrohkr6VNP4lTEovLILnY81z7o-KaXw4kq1a1RLjPBDZF5FaamRVCX6oMTEbUGvRqgulq9EiqpgaIS_gwhj31mPgupjZxt1j8ZzqXbqNDtbx5p4wrdYGqhEg6LeMhMr8z8u0UzaJe/s400/12+Pixie+under+sail.jpg" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bye, Pixie, see you in about a year!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Coast Guard love:</b>
Time to come home to Port Townsend. So there we were, bucking a mighty, 4-knot
ebb pouring out of Admiralty Inlet, dear little Raven’s throttle wide open and
roaring, trying to reach Port Townsend, but making only 1.5 knots. A buoy just sat
there for an hour as we crept past it. After 8 hours underway, having arisen at
4:00 am to cross the Strait, home was so near and yet so far.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgTJn3tzYnefxMKkjFV-tB3ijjgLGcmVR6jXlzrBU5rEoU09YRjN2Y-UjzhYENg8tgUQsh2fh71jZHocdHNlKqwwoiT56mwhfdPBrqAtmlNDmmEUxHnHQCJuo-weWiAQ1Aottkdoee/s1600/14+Morning+on+the+Strait.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgTJn3tzYnefxMKkjFV-tB3ijjgLGcmVR6jXlzrBU5rEoU09YRjN2Y-UjzhYENg8tgUQsh2fh71jZHocdHNlKqwwoiT56mwhfdPBrqAtmlNDmmEUxHnHQCJuo-weWiAQ1Aottkdoee/s320/14+Morning+on+the+Strait.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise in the Strait of Juan de Fuca</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It had been a peaceful morning, with Mother Nature playing
artist with her palette of colors. Two friends, Bill and Denis, were along as
crew. Jim was busy racing in the International Thunderbird Regatta in Port
Townsend Bay, and it was great to have their company.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Suddenly—cue military band music, oh let’s have the Colonel
Bogey March—two military ships approached us from astern. Biiiiig, tall military
ships. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi92tNXQmf3NcNxDfKr3VTq1-p446oEras9HbpXe7Zb3iNBmndqiseGm62YhJo2ZbfG4df_DtQkKdqmojBulSt6DcMoI_dpZOazNX6gIb9Qye4mcbE5VPRYb8SrF3wwwpBszPmlI_lv/s1600/15+Navy+ship.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="947" data-original-width="1600" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi92tNXQmf3NcNxDfKr3VTq1-p446oEras9HbpXe7Zb3iNBmndqiseGm62YhJo2ZbfG4df_DtQkKdqmojBulSt6DcMoI_dpZOazNX6gIb9Qye4mcbE5VPRYb8SrF3wwwpBszPmlI_lv/s320/15+Navy+ship.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a sistership of the one that passed us, named the Arrowhead.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
They decided to pass us on each side, which would mean
maximum wake fun for Raven. To starboard was a Navy submarine escort ship, the
kind with a long row of heavy steel walls where the sub gets between two of
these ships and hides from view as it transits waters inconveniently crowded
with civilians. The length of these escort ships doesn’t seem to be available anymore
online, so let’s estimate at least 300 feet.<br />
<br />
The other ship was the 378-foot US
Coast Guard cutter <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Mellon</i>, and its
AIS signal told us it was just coming in from a 13-day crossing from Japan. Wow!
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkUff1AQ9SZslN126PUfJu1R7cyMf5uCM1WkMTnN-BkB1tYvbDwr2IKtbinlDHk9PfyxaNxRRfQS7uUKjGp47rRjATbtWsD_Ki3X7njORBRUPB_6S-vF6Kjh_ue8D3ktINR8SVDoJZ/s1600/16+CG+Cutter+Mellon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="225" data-original-width="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkUff1AQ9SZslN126PUfJu1R7cyMf5uCM1WkMTnN-BkB1tYvbDwr2IKtbinlDHk9PfyxaNxRRfQS7uUKjGp47rRjATbtWsD_Ki3X7njORBRUPB_6S-vF6Kjh_ue8D3ktINR8SVDoJZ/s1600/16+CG+Cutter+Mellon.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 378-foot Coast Guard Cutter Mellon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Let me just say here that both ships maintained a safe
distance from us, (about a quarter mile on each side) and that any slight
exaggerations of wake size for comedic effect are mine alone.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Large wake coming in to starboard from the Navy ship! Do we
turn the bow into it and let the swift-moving tide erase our progress? No! Turn
to the left and take it from the stern! But wait, here comes the Coast Guard
ship on our port side! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We are going to be caught between two converging wakes! We
don’t want them to think we’re acting weird, even though we are! Okay then,
head for the stern of the Coast Guard ship. Make it a nice sharp right-angle
turn to port. But what must they be thinking, with us behaving so erratically?
Better call them on the VHF.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Karen: “US Coast Guard Cutter Mellon, this is the motor
vessel Raven. Welcome home.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This was intended as an opening, a nice way of saying don’t
worry about us, we’re friendly. Maybe even escorting them toward home for a
brief moment. A couple seconds passed, then:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sound of air kiss. One of those big, wet, fingers-to-mouth
smacking noises. On the VHF radio, Channel 16, the calling and distress
frequency. Coming from the Coast Guard.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Followed by this 378-foot ship saying: “We’ll give you room
to complete your maneuver.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Followed by howls of laughter aboard Raven, shrieks of OH
MY GOD DID THE COAST GUARD JUST DO AN AIR KISS?? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Followed by Karen picking up the radio mic and coughing out,
“Wakey wakey, roger that.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now normally, anyone who chatters too long on Channel 16
gets rightfully shushed off to a working channel by the good folks in Coast
Guard Sector Puget Sound, who keep that channel clear for calling and distress,
so just imagine, if you will, the shocked hilarity that must have ensued among
those radio operators in Seattle. I like to think it matched the laughter
aboard Raven. I’m guessing air kisses won’t become a customary US Coast Guard
greeting, but under the circumstances of the moment, with the Mellon returning
from a big ocean crossing, their response was comedic perfection.<o:p></o:p><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkkQXZFlNv0bVswmPzfL0ds7VnZJcABunZmkux8hi4nNQQny2dSrJBSrsf__tnO7fd4_VbdbYDB4FjIWQi2IlZjMig22OJN5wkdleczlOl2NcuHvTkbWxHwPA33SNRDj-BTNVruRU/s1600/17+CBP+Roam.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="265" data-original-width="572" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkkQXZFlNv0bVswmPzfL0ds7VnZJcABunZmkux8hi4nNQQny2dSrJBSrsf__tnO7fd4_VbdbYDB4FjIWQi2IlZjMig22OJN5wkdleczlOl2NcuHvTkbWxHwPA33SNRDj-BTNVruRU/s400/17+CBP+Roam.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Customs and Border Protection Service's friendly app logo, with the skipper peering from her jail cell porthole.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Shortly thereafter,
checking in at US Customs:</b> I had previously heard of an app called “CBP
Roam,” that allows you to enter your passport and other data, which in turn
allows you to check in telephonically instead of adding an extra 20+ miles to
the water crossing by having to check in at official stations in either Friday
Harbor or Port Angeles. Yes, someone said, with this app you can go straight
home from Canada to Port Townsend and check in there! I called Customs in
advance to confirm this was possible, and the officer said, “Just make sure you
have enough cell signal to make the video call when you cross into US waters,
or you’ll have to go to a Customs station to check in.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
All-righty then! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I entered the data from our two crew into the app and waited for
a decent cell signal, but couldn’t get more than one or two bars until we were
just off Point Hudson in Port Townsend. This was a little further than “just
crossing into US waters,” but if the call couldn’t go through, according to the
Customs officer, we’d have to backtrack 31 miles to Port Angeles to check in in
person. Nervously, I followed the app’s directions: Enter name, other required
data, press continue, check. Select Boat Master, press continue, check. Hmm, it didn’t ask
for passengers. Oh well. Here comes the video call. They can see you, but you
can’t see them.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Customs Officer: “Hi. I see you’re right here already.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Uh-oh, he sounds
annoyed. And wow, the app must send out the boat’s GPS coordinates</i>. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Karen: “We couldn’t get a strong enough cell signal until we
got this far, and I wanted to make sure we got through to you.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Customs: “WE? Who else is aboard?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><br /></i>
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Uh-oh</i>. Give him
the passenger names and say, “But their data is already plugged into the app,
you should have it.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Customs: “I do, but you didn’t list them as passengers.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Karen: “Um, I’m sorry, but the app…”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Customs: What were you doing in Canada?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
All three of us at once say: “We went to the Classic Boat
Show in Victoria and then to a party for a friend who’s sailing around the
world!” At this admission, the tone of which probably sounded like three
fourth-graders competing for teacher’s pet, we could almost hear the Customs
officer thinking, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">yup, boat people,
uh-huh</i>. But he said, “Since you didn’t enter your passengers’ names on the
arrival list, I’m going to deny your entry.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Karen: “Oh dear God.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Silence. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZGdF_AXz82XwgV71gu4SqRa6JuKFuHYZPghXET1xrMk9d_KYmz-2sbQY2XBrpeMrQWkWTIEw7wIKRy9VB-4DrYkPUgNFfN4flflmPmNa0Xx3rfI7JKefB2LY4EN4VaYC1vGB7o7dr/s1600/18+CBP+Roam2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="575" data-original-width="1039" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZGdF_AXz82XwgV71gu4SqRa6JuKFuHYZPghXET1xrMk9d_KYmz-2sbQY2XBrpeMrQWkWTIEw7wIKRy9VB-4DrYkPUgNFfN4flflmPmNa0Xx3rfI7JKefB2LY4EN4VaYC1vGB7o7dr/s400/18+CBP+Roam2.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few of the screens inside the app.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I break out in a drenching sweat. “Does this mean we have to
go back to Port Angeles to check in?” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Customs: “Oh no, just log out of the app and then log in
again, enter the correct data, and try again.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Whew! But I’m still sweating. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">What if this doesn’t work?</i> <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
The next ten or fifteen minutes are spent trying to log out
of the app but it won’t allow it. Okay, reboot the phone. Oh dear, same thing,
here comes a video call from Customs and you’re not ready. Hang up. Try again,
same thing, hang up. Annnnd, once more, but this time let the video call come
through because you don’t want to keep hanging up on the federal government. A
different Customs officer says, “You haven’t entered your passengers’ names, so
I’m going to deny your entry.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Great, now I’m a
repeat offender. I can see the headlines: Woman human trafficker smuggles two
dudes into Port Townsend who already live there. And look! Over there, just
across the bay, it’s Jim, racing his Thunderbird… goodbye my darling, it’s off
to the hoosegow for your little chicken. <o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
By now I’m exhibiting clear signs of APP-rehension: “Okay,
but our entry has already been denied once, and the app won’t let me…”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Customs: “Try rebooting your phone.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Karen: “I did.” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Customs: “Okay, I see what happened—I’m still in your file
trying to process it, so give me a minute to log out and then try again.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
I do, and as Raven makes circles outside Point Hudson, the
first Customs Officer comes back: “Okay, now I see your passengers’ data. Let
me talk to them.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
I point the phone at Denis, then Bill, then back at myself,
drenched in sweat. I must look utterly guilty of something, because don’t most criminals
sweat like this? And the very act of sweating this much makes me even more
conscious of the fact that sweating isn’t good when you’re being questioned by
the government, which of course makes me sweat even more. Yes it’s a warm muggy
day, but you, dear reader, haven’t tried touring the inside of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">my</i> imagination.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlwJkmoVDjya4i016hET5Tl1JXipBL4ILtwb5R4w4L4hT-cpEJLJLvradVcjWMO3udHNYHpf4fbY6hvT6Xx9lVtQlMteJsZQDgjEA8pgpSQt-g0VEUdljsS6JQm79VE6WdCVSgwSF_/s1600/17a+Sweating.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="267" data-original-width="285" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlwJkmoVDjya4i016hET5Tl1JXipBL4ILtwb5R4w4L4hT-cpEJLJLvradVcjWMO3udHNYHpf4fbY6hvT6Xx9lVtQlMteJsZQDgjEA8pgpSQt-g0VEUdljsS6JQm79VE6WdCVSgwSF_/s200/17a+Sweating.png" width="200" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Customs officer says, “I’m approving your entry,” and I say,
“OH THANK YOU!” which sounds a little <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">too</i>
relieved, know what I mean? I ask, Sir, can I explain the reason for my
mistake? And he says yes, so I say the reason is that the app didn’t specifically
ask for the passengers’ names, and I didn’t want to select <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">three</i> Boat Masters, and he says okay, which makes me hope he will
tell someone in the Software Department so they can keep this from happening to
other people, but this is the government, and I know how it might go because I
used to work for the government, so fair warning, everyone, I made the mistake
so you don’t have to: Be sure to select the Boat Master first, and then select all the
passengers <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">before</i> hitting the blue
bar that says CONTINUE. Unless they fix the app first. Then good luck to you in
your stateless limbo.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Just as the video conference finishes, without realizing
that he can probably still hear me, I yell, “We’re legal! We’re legal!” And
then I think, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Oh dear God, I hope Customs
has a sense of humor like the Coast Guard does</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Regressing in time to
the Classic Boat Festival</b> in Victoria’s Inner Harbour, where the docks in front
of the majestic Empress Hotel were lined with enough varnished wooden
magnificence to create a need for drool rags, people happily walked among these
beauties, chatted up their owners, sometimes went aboard for a tour, and looked
as if we were all reverting to happy carefree childhoods. An event like that
energizes me as if I’ve been breathing pure oxygen, and it’s highly
recommended. And guess what? Just in time to satisfy more craving, this weekend it's Port Townsend's turn--the <a href="https://nwmaritime.org/events/43rd-wooden-boat-festival/" target="_blank">Wooden Boat Festival</a>!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRCDf5LMyBYyWAIZQ0ziMgPA_zw9-E4hhutdg9bnyr29K86M-UBYS2bIUDzcny5XHiWs3SNwYFxVytkl6qcq6SvIiGoRTYLp1ppJqKDJ3gXaJcslbmtpa2wVK7VHQnAFFSQEQneAdF/s1600/18+Classic-Boat-Festival.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRCDf5LMyBYyWAIZQ0ziMgPA_zw9-E4hhutdg9bnyr29K86M-UBYS2bIUDzcny5XHiWs3SNwYFxVytkl6qcq6SvIiGoRTYLp1ppJqKDJ3gXaJcslbmtpa2wVK7VHQnAFFSQEQneAdF/s320/18+Classic-Boat-Festival.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now, in addition to Raven’s growing fame as offshore pizza
delivery boat and round-the-world escort service, we can also say she was
air-kissed by a United States Coast Guard Cutter. Okay wait, I retract
round-the-world escort service, that didn’t sound quite right. Make that boat <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">arrival</i> escort service… no, wait, how
‘bout… oh dear, I’m sweating again. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiFAItHtr1rb3GVmMbOiCCxVVapzFA74ZNyW8h8Y3IpmI3uBEzGe-E6LJWCqYJMBR0DLfn10_ueFm9lv-30sF0eL3jHAPCGYqucjzUjB43NFFpcOiTv8bJAN-Z-OgXlTspPTxhW7OV/s1600/20+Raven%2527s+stern%252C+Maiden+in+distance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="888" data-original-width="960" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiFAItHtr1rb3GVmMbOiCCxVVapzFA74ZNyW8h8Y3IpmI3uBEzGe-E6LJWCqYJMBR0DLfn10_ueFm9lv-30sF0eL3jHAPCGYqucjzUjB43NFFpcOiTv8bJAN-Z-OgXlTspPTxhW7OV/s320/20+Raven%2527s+stern%252C+Maiden+in+distance.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven bids adieu to Maiden as she rounds Pt Wilson into the Strait</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Thanks to <a href="http://seaportphotography.com/" target="_blank">Elizabeth Becker</a>, Jan Davis, Bill Ferry, and Denis Wang for photos and videos.</i></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-49711505064787306972018-12-20T16:17:00.000-08:002018-12-20T16:17:28.404-08:00Raven's route to Alaska and back<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDCBj2qeKjE_lcij8YudLqgVF7QLP-Lf9Xuvc588aE3DAsXhahtsEC59o5le-0_5KPP4QVMXbyPtHyMFmqxVkz-yuxmoFGFazFcBNF3dRONZCvbFQJ63_-qX2ChJWeSrb21pvRE-Cg/s1600/RavenAlaskaRoute2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="796" data-original-width="876" height="361" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDCBj2qeKjE_lcij8YudLqgVF7QLP-Lf9Xuvc588aE3DAsXhahtsEC59o5le-0_5KPP4QVMXbyPtHyMFmqxVkz-yuxmoFGFazFcBNF3dRONZCvbFQJ63_-qX2ChJWeSrb21pvRE-Cg/s400/RavenAlaskaRoute2.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">The green line is heading north, and red is going south.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-31313238696028010222018-08-28T17:16:00.001-07:002019-06-14T15:44:26.872-07:00Slow August<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkbeAc_U5OhHcY4vssmhahx02s67Lwyax05piq8W0a9kA56baWjZmmGynSKuDyOK4ApxYkrYkulGhOEz4aOXDE-sAsYOPkXIT5x1kfPs9gqwnByzgyelxWJq-oPS4srUaf2IzzHV2b/s1600/1+Arriving+for+a+sail+aboard+Wind+Gypsy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkbeAc_U5OhHcY4vssmhahx02s67Lwyax05piq8W0a9kA56baWjZmmGynSKuDyOK4ApxYkrYkulGhOEz4aOXDE-sAsYOPkXIT5x1kfPs9gqwnByzgyelxWJq-oPS4srUaf2IzzHV2b/s320/1+Arriving+for+a+sail+aboard+Wind+Gypsy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>3997</o:Words>
<o:Characters>22789</o:Characters>
<o:Company>none</o:Company>
<o:Lines>189</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>53</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>26733</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
panose-1:0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;
mso-font-charset:128;
mso-generic-font-family:roman;
mso-font-format:other;
mso-font-pitch:fixed;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
panose-1:0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;
mso-font-charset:128;
mso-generic-font-family:roman;
mso-font-format:other;
mso-font-pitch:fixed;
mso-font-signature:1 134676480 16 0 131072 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
</style>
<br />
<br /><!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><b style="font-size: 12pt;">Our friends at <u><a href="https://www.offcenterharbor.com/tour/" target="_blank">OffCenter Harbor</a></u> have started a new thing </b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">we like: Slow August. In it,
they present short videos with no narration, just late summer bluebird days
with those slurpy chuckling water sounds of a boat at anchor near a beach, or
someone rowing, or other quiet August scenes meant to restore the sanity of
anyone trapped in a cubicle office. They’re great, except Jim said, “We just
came back from almost four months of that, so I kind of fast-forwarded through
them.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Did you know they dubbed us the King and Queen of Slow? And
featured our blog on their site?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I haven’t gotten to that email yet,” he said.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I rest my case. To us, those videos are <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">regular speed</i>.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“The King of Slow, huh? If my racing friends find out, I’ll
never hear the end of it.”<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: #38761d; font-size: large;">**Edit, much later</span></b>: Off Center Harbor filmed <a href="https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/going-slow-small-simple-inside-passage-alaska/?prev=yes" target="_blank">this video interview</a> of us, about going slow, small and simple up the Inside Passage.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">We’re home. You know
you’re out of the wilderness when,</b> aboard your single-engine, small quiet
cruising boat, you are “outraced” at harbor entrances by large, tsunami-generating
gin palaces seeking the last remaining whatever in the harbor before you get to
it. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOD00rwIrlbK2pc6oOfEIjWBO4jRmKUrQ1WPVJa0wxPMYco9eUMj-MsE8dh4hxuuzMwBAKS7XBRpOvL2wTypgGd3l3aChyw2J3ai-xzb86Q_96PLDLYtkTHDABGhYhyABLEQ8dbcq9/s1600/3+large+yacht+wake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOD00rwIrlbK2pc6oOfEIjWBO4jRmKUrQ1WPVJa0wxPMYco9eUMj-MsE8dh4hxuuzMwBAKS7XBRpOvL2wTypgGd3l3aChyw2J3ai-xzb86Q_96PLDLYtkTHDABGhYhyABLEQ8dbcq9/s320/3+large+yacht+wake.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ugh, gack, giant, surfable wakes. Makes small boat cruisers mildly homicidal.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">We even heard one of them say on the radio, “White sailing
vessel, alter your course!” Which confirms the unfortunate inequality trend
toward “might makes right” out on the water. Watching these fiberglass
stampedes is reminiscent of some warped Evacuation of Dunkirk Billionaires
scene as multiple fortresses plow giant furrows past you at close quarters, racing
each other to the harbor spoils and giving you the feel of being a contestant
in “Bowling for Small Boats.” It’s the sudden ejection from slow wilderness
into the anti-universe of Breakneck Speed August at Mergers and Acquisitions
Harbor that gets me every time. I won’t say exactly where this is, but you will
know if you’ve been there in August trying to check into US Customs. I
sometimes use an ancient traditional greeting when they roar past and we buck
and jump in their wakes, and I sometimes chant, “May your props become tulips.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidP7di1hInlj7v-IsiOh2Mnk_iI_zEDyO_OllJ6zWLXFrGTVIOeuxm11cKEAzAontQ0kGCHtI3V_byfgpYETDCF5A79JzjaNv6vbShXd-gU7zBqSceqexnfugeGmj7ZG_vmMJmqVRZ/s1600/4+Karen%2527s+ancient+traditional+gesture.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidP7di1hInlj7v-IsiOh2Mnk_iI_zEDyO_OllJ6zWLXFrGTVIOeuxm11cKEAzAontQ0kGCHtI3V_byfgpYETDCF5A79JzjaNv6vbShXd-gU7zBqSceqexnfugeGmj7ZG_vmMJmqVRZ/s320/4+Karen%2527s+ancient+traditional+gesture.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bet you thought I meant the OTHER ancient, traditional gesture. At least this one got a few laughs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We met our old friend Roly Brown, with his wife
Marian, aboard Tropic Isle just south of Shearwater, and as we held the two
boats together while floating around, we had a nice gam for a few minutes.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4sgLvnkeAHz7KPcof6Q11qf4xU1ztogLSXh-c_KyxWL0EGZIRfk3yfiwwE0m8F3n7s4FLSR01L9jJug4LJfnPeJuu6RiXCjgfcCWnagXDyjh9KyGtAXcQ4cI-XFFJH4lHvv_OiSF0/s1600/5+Tropic+Isle+at+Alarm+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4sgLvnkeAHz7KPcof6Q11qf4xU1ztogLSXh-c_KyxWL0EGZIRfk3yfiwwE0m8F3n7s4FLSR01L9jJug4LJfnPeJuu6RiXCjgfcCWnagXDyjh9KyGtAXcQ4cI-XFFJH4lHvv_OiSF0/s320/5+Tropic+Isle+at+Alarm+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tropic Isle with Roly and Marian.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><br />So, the remaining
voyage details:</b> we left Shearwater and made tracks to revisit Green Island
Anchorage off Fitzhugh Sound, one of our favorite spots. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQcg8QVpsLpLAfGt-heSjcrjp1XTHaA84lh4NimxOGpn_lubE4AsxJBWE7BtGPIwjhVDdOhtisMIHHeineGzj-fhASGBEQXjMeZ44eQ2B0GF8y_RmjrQFYgJtiN7k0R6CRmONT24M4/s1600/6+Here+comes+the+fog+again-Fitzhugh+Sd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQcg8QVpsLpLAfGt-heSjcrjp1XTHaA84lh4NimxOGpn_lubE4AsxJBWE7BtGPIwjhVDdOhtisMIHHeineGzj-fhASGBEQXjMeZ44eQ2B0GF8y_RmjrQFYgJtiN7k0R6CRmONT24M4/s320/6+Here+comes+the+fog+again-Fitzhugh+Sd.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here comes the fog!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br />Although there were three other boats at anchor in the main
cove, our narrow little side slough was free and we spent a peaceful night.
Even after a stay in a small remote marina these days, I find myself aching to
get back to anchor. We also realize the value of cruising out of season,
because back in May, except for tugs with barges, there wasn’t another boat to
be seen for days—maybe the weather’s not as good then, but you sure find the solitude
a lot easier. Shhh, don’t tell anyone.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn5HDCJN_W3Wg4sr1BM9gtAF6mh66fJZDpGfkNxdh4GSrsnqHDCMTuG_4TMLP6xvMk9vfJDWedpw_HlmdhvzZmWHfGAC0AvWQVWXn76NuldEOascIz3iQZfPG15PocF6rRtKsNF20m/s1600/7+Sky.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn5HDCJN_W3Wg4sr1BM9gtAF6mh66fJZDpGfkNxdh4GSrsnqHDCMTuG_4TMLP6xvMk9vfJDWedpw_HlmdhvzZmWHfGAC0AvWQVWXn76NuldEOascIz3iQZfPG15PocF6rRtKsNF20m/s320/7+Sky.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At breakfast, watching Jim dip a Pop Tart in his coffee:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: “I wish I had something easy like that.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“You could learn to like them.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“They taste like gourmet cardboard.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“A bite here, a bite there, I think you'd like them if you tried.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“You mean, that’s the same Pop Tart you had a few days ago?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“No, but they actually taste amazingly good when they're stale.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">This from a man who
won’t eat bread that’s more than a few days old.<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Since the next day was the best forecast of the coming week,
we decided to go for it, and rounded Cape Caution, where swells from the Pacific
gave way to a chop that wasn’t pleasant but was a lot better than the wind that
was coming. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">And the fog, oh my</b>.
Jim has never actually seen Cape Caution in all the times he’s rounded it. I
saw it once, about 17 years ago. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: “This fog looks like we’re in a bell jar.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: “So, we’re in like, a little maritime terrarium?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Later: “Lotta logs out here in this fog, you gotta keep a
sharp eye out. Where do you suppose they’re all coming from?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Trees?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The multitudes of rhinoceros auklets (a small seabird with a
punk-rock look) flying, landing, diving and just hangin’ with their homies in
the fog was a pleasure to watch. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-0YRh1j1uy5Gd4UmSy3cwG8cZQheLqPEeOyPcezAcZ-jf2B1XqfYfz1ClOqPVgsO1sDeorj5XDogkGNTjE6B0w-sR1WhR2femeyLnWTExNq_s3SFZ1GflmV0RxBpXKR2d-VJY6Jr/s1600/8+Rhinoceros-Auklet+Source+Planet+of+Birds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="294" data-original-width="400" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-0YRh1j1uy5Gd4UmSy3cwG8cZQheLqPEeOyPcezAcZ-jf2B1XqfYfz1ClOqPVgsO1sDeorj5XDogkGNTjE6B0w-sR1WhR2femeyLnWTExNq_s3SFZ1GflmV0RxBpXKR2d-VJY6Jr/s320/8+Rhinoceros-Auklet+Source+Planet+of+Birds.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rhinoceros auklet. Credit: Planet of Birds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
And then the fog cleared as we entered Queen Charlotte
Strait. Off McEwan Rock a whale surfaced less than 100 feet from us; the seas
calmed, the wind went aft, and for a short time it was an easy-weather day. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When you see a couple hundred excited birds of several
species circling low over the water, (we call this a bird-nado) watch, because
something interesting’s bound to happen. Sure enough, there were whales
feeding. Five more whale sightings, we think all humpbacks, brought this day’s
total to six. Then the tide changed, the wind increased and the seas stood up—this
was Queen Charlotte Strait after all, whose tides can run at four-plus knots
and which funnels daily gales into Johnstone Strait, so as the seas rose we decided
to bail out at Blunden Harbor on the mainland side instead of going to a nice-looking
spot in the Pearse Islands near Alert Bay to anchor. Glad we did, because just
as we entered lovely snug Blunden and dropped the hook, it began to blow pretty
hard, maybe 30 knots. And even with cutting the journey short, it was still a
74-mile day, which for a small boat is pretty good.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">We don’t have an
anemometer</b>, so we just estimate the wind speed, and the way it works is: as
soon as we notice ourselves getting uncomfortable and starting to worry a bit,
it’s time for Plan B. The threshold for concern is a little lower on Raven than
it was for Sockdolager, but Raven still took some pretty impressive seas with
aplomb on this voyage. Sockdolager, by the way, has been renamed “Ouzel” (a
nifty water bird) and was in these same waters with her new owner, preparing
for a solo offshore sail down the west coast of Vancouver Island. Go Chris! We
didn’t have cell signals and couldn’t arrange a rendezvous, but look forward to
meeting up with Chris and Lisa soon.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe5pVPuaMNOU8eIfTtFI9ButqrV-emEnSPFU0dpljMPA_gboXbO_ueI1SZv6ToHa52ngwwQlioT2623_8S2M6dCktdqc987HqK54QbZ1nDMp1WtQMDLAr_XDgCb9jw-9yK6WfKNDHy/s1600/9+Sky%252C+Broughtons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe5pVPuaMNOU8eIfTtFI9ButqrV-emEnSPFU0dpljMPA_gboXbO_ueI1SZv6ToHa52ngwwQlioT2623_8S2M6dCktdqc987HqK54QbZ1nDMp1WtQMDLAr_XDgCb9jw-9yK6WfKNDHy/s320/9+Sky%252C+Broughtons.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were a lot of interesting clouds before the front came through. Claydon Harbor, Broughtons.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Johnstone Strait’s
forecast</b> wasn’t sounding like much fun, and because we’d heard there was a
fishing opener happening soon, we detoured into the Broughton Islands’ watery
maze to a nice bay called Claydon Harbor. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWlzcu0c9MpOkcDSSEtXYdvBqtSCtxo2804SCVbQTZhe0vUwvHhWZGmO-CPH5g9KA50ojXjoE-q18av-B2z_z5h-SRYT6gZf_R08W4KT58nUB65ua5LzGOwSjaN60-kbaEoFcIAkB9/s1600/10+Ruins%252C+Claydon+Bay%252C+Broughtons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWlzcu0c9MpOkcDSSEtXYdvBqtSCtxo2804SCVbQTZhe0vUwvHhWZGmO-CPH5g9KA50ojXjoE-q18av-B2z_z5h-SRYT6gZf_R08W4KT58nUB65ua5LzGOwSjaN60-kbaEoFcIAkB9/s320/10+Ruins%252C+Claydon+Bay%252C+Broughtons.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruins in Claydon Harbor.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
The cruising guide urges you to anchor in a small arm in its
north corner, and sure enough that’s where at least six boats had crammed
together, leaving the entire western bay free for our anchoring pleasure. There
was a thunderstorm in the night, an occurrence so unusual in these parts that
seeing the lightning flash through my eyelids, I recall thinking sleepily, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">we must tape over whatever instrument light
bulb is malfunctioning, it’s really annoying! </i><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Then the thunder boomed. Oh wow. But the wind behaved and a
good night’s sleep was had by all.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSKigzXxqOFv_jRaASIhsbq5o6EiIhDdYbCoBIU_jiWzL20BhQvW80A94rh05TYvEuEVru7sNX0ZwDqjJEUom2TyWuL8FILWaG-yBONZEr6UIvqXHQHTbxVs6As_4V7Sn_40bQUa_F/s1600/11+More+ruins%252C+Broughtons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSKigzXxqOFv_jRaASIhsbq5o6EiIhDdYbCoBIU_jiWzL20BhQvW80A94rh05TYvEuEVru7sNX0ZwDqjJEUom2TyWuL8FILWaG-yBONZEr6UIvqXHQHTbxVs6As_4V7Sn_40bQUa_F/s320/11+More+ruins%252C+Broughtons.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With all the rain that falls (this <i>is</i> a rainforest) Nature takes manmade structures back pretty fast.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Later, underway, a look at the chart: “Oooh, there’s Mistake
Island!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Are you sure that’s right?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_09Dm7sbgOuJw-q8c-zH6r9syLKbqzkCp69sSgzKYz16D7_bNtA6CUl2PCCvBxumshc718p8OVnC0gSjCo8E5oj0yq4bsEMmrx2VHLqX0Ak_dr3Ehaq-eLv0mni3fvVj2qSWSQPYN/s1600/12+Broughtons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_09Dm7sbgOuJw-q8c-zH6r9syLKbqzkCp69sSgzKYz16D7_bNtA6CUl2PCCvBxumshc718p8OVnC0gSjCo8E5oj0yq4bsEMmrx2VHLqX0Ak_dr3Ehaq-eLv0mni3fvVj2qSWSQPYN/s320/12+Broughtons.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful Broughtons.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
Gale warnings continued in Johnstone Strait, so Raven
wandered up and down channels in easy weather through the Broughtons, to the
very hospitable and tiny Kwatsi Bay Marina (we wanted to try one more remote
marina) which is truly in the middle of nowhere. The owners and some cruisers
who’ve been coming there for decades held their regular BYOB happy hour with
snacks on a covered dock—very pleasant. The marina’s <u><a href="https://www.facebook.com/notes/kwatsi-bay-marina/for-sale/1968691419818214/" target="_blank">for sale</a></u>, in case
you’re interested…<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHXc_wR77N6JOxFJhAGLSMz-SMcu20zhxgTJlqV38n3r7UDkgGECdWUdA38t8kkESrsyK0tvWhdgoM2AY7wQ2YXenAELAT-qnoq94aQJFU4newQ3e2dZEYq9vTWnglo_1h2upmUsz8/s1600/13+Kwatsi+Bay+Marina%252C+happy+hour.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHXc_wR77N6JOxFJhAGLSMz-SMcu20zhxgTJlqV38n3r7UDkgGECdWUdA38t8kkESrsyK0tvWhdgoM2AY7wQ2YXenAELAT-qnoq94aQJFU4newQ3e2dZEYq9vTWnglo_1h2upmUsz8/s320/13+Kwatsi+Bay+Marina%252C+happy+hour.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Exiting the Broughtons, you see ranges posted here and
there, beacons for keeping you on course. As we passed one, Jim pointed: You
see that? You could put a floating home right there.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“But that’d be a lousy place for a floating home, it’s
exposed…”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Yeah, but then you’d have a home on the range.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*Groan*<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_6ARuuO_KH056hroC0m7F-z-nn9L_45u3W7HRN8f0Lhmzp4HrXBnG_8Hi2yKlId0NZVEaKE_x9KKmnGVO9kJjtkY6ctUm_V09f1bSLR2XISEEuHloQZN2ZWqr_2UZMl5NCRiJYrrv/s1600/14+Range%252C+Broughtons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_6ARuuO_KH056hroC0m7F-z-nn9L_45u3W7HRN8f0Lhmzp4HrXBnG_8Hi2yKlId0NZVEaKE_x9KKmnGVO9kJjtkY6ctUm_V09f1bSLR2XISEEuHloQZN2ZWqr_2UZMl5NCRiJYrrv/s320/14+Range%252C+Broughtons.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Home on the range, nyuk, nyuk.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Expecting favorable
currents</b> back in Johnstone Strait the next day, we were
surprised that it was adverse, until POW! Near Helmcken Island, we got 9 to 12
knots of boat speed for the next ten miles, woot! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWcu0y6eBX7WVCTzrwox9c-EvDnWmWtVDBlyDxtStT388wyEWskRY_TC69xQHaA-pUCbfvY-Il9c5WfdP3UecR5JaNEpPswOwGVQSj9LmZ0gf8kHVO6hJI2IcFWuCb7PXr0KrAyK-/s1600/15+Speed+12.3+knots%252C+Tyee+Point.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWcu0y6eBX7WVCTzrwox9c-EvDnWmWtVDBlyDxtStT388wyEWskRY_TC69xQHaA-pUCbfvY-Il9c5WfdP3UecR5JaNEpPswOwGVQSj9LmZ0gf8kHVO6hJI2IcFWuCb7PXr0KrAyK-/s320/15+Speed+12.3+knots%252C+Tyee+Point.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Dall’s porpoises frolicked in the current and some standing
waves off Tyee Point and weren’t the least bit interested in the King and Queen
of Slow’s bow wave. Raven’s economical 20-hp Yanmar pushes her at 5.5 to 6
knots, so in these currents we almost needed seat belts as the shoreline flew
past. There was a 6+ knot current in some places, with boils and whirlpools
that required careful hand-steering. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIobLtPtqMYEz1VCVEu0VVZK3fD3tocmQmyxvW2gVUnxYDnm3cFzmcJop0vg1ygrhyRRpo_Fec4QyHbMRUP5Y9mVgJi1bg5-pfaFu511i9WJJ_p4-Uyz2TuRr5mFRiOMRXj7Hxm2U6/s1600/16+Small+whirlpool+close+up%252C+Johnstone+Strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIobLtPtqMYEz1VCVEu0VVZK3fD3tocmQmyxvW2gVUnxYDnm3cFzmcJop0vg1ygrhyRRpo_Fec4QyHbMRUP5Y9mVgJi1bg5-pfaFu511i9WJJ_p4-Uyz2TuRr5mFRiOMRXj7Hxm2U6/s320/16+Small+whirlpool+close+up%252C+Johnstone+Strait.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small whirlpool close up, Johnstone Strait.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We try to avoid whirlpools whenever possible. Okay, that’s a
bizarre thing to say, but when you hit a small one, it knocks you
off course, and when you hit a big one it causes your boat to lean over as you
sway off course. The harder the flow and the bigger the whirlpool, the further
you lean over when it grips your boat. Here are some whirlpool photos. They
don’t look like a big deal, but they are. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkVyhuc8VbrwLkTrBhg7c2nxBC1eif4KPHGgfvMEIAXsR55KNQaGbp7Md1dHlwt298O2e9bYa2ZXIdwEj2WadOhJMgpmFx2StVevFkRzWlSZa3_JdjpNd2dH_OahcNWLGKVP9d8VxT/s1600/17+Small+whirlpool2%252C+Johnstone+Strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkVyhuc8VbrwLkTrBhg7c2nxBC1eif4KPHGgfvMEIAXsR55KNQaGbp7Md1dHlwt298O2e9bYa2ZXIdwEj2WadOhJMgpmFx2StVevFkRzWlSZa3_JdjpNd2dH_OahcNWLGKVP9d8VxT/s320/17+Small+whirlpool2%252C+Johnstone+Strait.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small-ish whirlpool.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSF_Fb_SGR4_f6TNrvI56rBrLYs1tDX4Zp-MXQmvB_3Ipm19SLbMPP5Xa8W0TGk-StbZJtqcM_2zLK91klP7orWLOLyLfS9-WnAxnmRA6JbEfolZaTgpCfwPBlI2sI2QnZBPJ3h17O/s1600/18+Medium+whirlpool%252C+Johnstone+Strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSF_Fb_SGR4_f6TNrvI56rBrLYs1tDX4Zp-MXQmvB_3Ipm19SLbMPP5Xa8W0TGk-StbZJtqcM_2zLK91klP7orWLOLyLfS9-WnAxnmRA6JbEfolZaTgpCfwPBlI2sI2QnZBPJ3h17O/s320/18+Medium+whirlpool%252C+Johnstone+Strait.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Medium whirlpool.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV3RjZYGxHFf-g_J6-olRZtrEA9PeCGatxK1z7JC4KXVPWJOWEc-It436pPH96Xxow4kz7H1GrANFDqcq6S867W_pgrwyKgEk41SzymLQw-bPORSdeU3wLfbPW4wSAB2EJd0cZgClA/s1600/19+Large+whirlpool%252C+Johnstone+Strait.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="484" data-original-width="551" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV3RjZYGxHFf-g_J6-olRZtrEA9PeCGatxK1z7JC4KXVPWJOWEc-It436pPH96Xxow4kz7H1GrANFDqcq6S867W_pgrwyKgEk41SzymLQw-bPORSdeU3wLfbPW4wSAB2EJd0cZgClA/s320/19+Large+whirlpool%252C+Johnstone+Strait.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big, herkin' whirlpool.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In places where whirlpools and boils are truly dangerous, large ships
have sunk, so in the backs of our minds was some worry about the turbulence at
the fearsome Seymour Narrows down the way, where currents can get to 16+ knots
at spring tides, and 19 knots is not unheard of. In fact, it's one of the most turbulent bodies of navigable water in the world. Here’s a <u><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eb8bv_3OZAg" target="_blank">video of a big boat bucking a 10-knot ebb</a></u> in
Seymour Narrows. Remember when watching this that currents can get to nearly twice this speed!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were a little nervous, because coming up was a big spring
tide. The cruising guide said to plan your transit of Seymour for times when
there isn’t a spring tide, and the tide table said currents in the Narrows were
14 to 15 knots that week, (plus, one of the cruisers at Kwatsi Bay said he’d
once missed the tide and took his little 10-knot powerboat through at 23 knots,
something he said he never wanted to do again,) so timing the passage for slack
water, however little time it might last, would be crucial. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The amount of smoke filling the air was also startling.
Whole mountains dissolved into what we realized wasn’t mist, but smoke from
dozens of wildfires burning in BC. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfPYn3ixgFeMhR_HbZoOmZWInJQNR5TgGn40DapXcwwssxT7pecJz4dZcCiE70i294LkcZ8gfjGw1rrsqbVzroPb081RvPofECTI4x6wkDKZAq2r1VPpMQeYXqXHNFkwPKjjsxV_vx/s1600/19a+Smoke%252C+Johnstone+Strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfPYn3ixgFeMhR_HbZoOmZWInJQNR5TgGn40DapXcwwssxT7pecJz4dZcCiE70i294LkcZ8gfjGw1rrsqbVzroPb081RvPofECTI4x6wkDKZAq2r1VPpMQeYXqXHNFkwPKjjsxV_vx/s320/19a+Smoke%252C+Johnstone+Strait.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mountains disappeared behind curtains of smoke that were thicker the higher in altitude they went. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
This was August 12, and we would have red-orb sunsets
through dense smoke and would not see blue sky again until August 27.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLEn3x43dAPYVNnOOREatONYuDGpwRsRiiX0eLyoy3TtepVXnTcud5ujDPhNIyar04VJO60psMUwag-u577oXbJ3R8bMnmf3zLF2N2A7AlLo-zJgr9SjxFilMybg3cibw629-3yyNM/s1600/20+Smoky+sunset%252C+Granite+bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLEn3x43dAPYVNnOOREatONYuDGpwRsRiiX0eLyoy3TtepVXnTcud5ujDPhNIyar04VJO60psMUwag-u577oXbJ3R8bMnmf3zLF2N2A7AlLo-zJgr9SjxFilMybg3cibw629-3yyNM/s320/20+Smoky+sunset%252C+Granite+bay.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoke makes for spectacular sunsets. Granite Bay, off Discovery Passage.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><br />We anchored in
Granite Bay, a bomb-proof little cove</b> off Kanish Bay next to Discovery
Passage, and plotted out our transit of Seymour Narrows. The best thing is to
approach it on the last of an adverse current, which we did next morning, in
order to be ready to take advantage of the favorable current when the tide
turned. In this part of Canada, the ebb runs north and the flood runs
south—very confusing. There was a strong ebb to fight at first, 4 knots out in
the middle of Discovery Passage, so the only way we could make any headway
toward the Narrows was to sneak down the side of the channel about 50-100 feet
off the shoreline, avoiding rocks. There was even a one knot counter-current in
some places! A wide bay called Brown Cove, just up from Seymour Narrows, is a
good place to wait for slack tide, and we decided to go there. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me, at 9:00 am: “The cruising guide says southbound boats should arrive half
an hour ahead of slack tide when it’s as strong as this. Slack is at 1:15 pm. So
we should arrive at a quarter to one, what do you think?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: “How about eight?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Huh?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Blank stare at horizon.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: “Um, Sweetie, didn’t you get enough sleep last night?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Oh,” he said, covering his gaffe, “I was thinking we could
time travel.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I get it. You’ve been reading too much sci-fi, haven’t you.”
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNaF7tt6kIjFLHsUf9ebOvElgRgfTxcnVyY_2AB-mepFYVAgzkoK64StQanpo3wIS0l9VsLZ1xJPEhTTifKGJz1VD3hU8ls-sINw-8Zor5Q1H42-rTTS0gu2VXHE6bL1moolD0Pfy_/s1600/21+Karen+at+helm%252C+Fitzhugh+Sd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNaF7tt6kIjFLHsUf9ebOvElgRgfTxcnVyY_2AB-mepFYVAgzkoK64StQanpo3wIS0l9VsLZ1xJPEhTTifKGJz1VD3hU8ls-sINw-8Zor5Q1H42-rTTS0gu2VXHE6bL1moolD0Pfy_/s320/21+Karen+at+helm%252C+Fitzhugh+Sd.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We took two-hour watches at the helm. That felt just about right when navigating through narrow waters. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><br />One thing about being
in wilderness in the e-book era:</b> you get to read a lot of books. I have no
idea how many we read, but Jim finished and went well beyond the entire
Lawrence Block series of seventeen books and I lost track of the number I enjoyed,
including two long tomes by David Foster Wallace (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Consider the Lobster</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A
Supposedly Fun Thing I’ll Never Do Again</i>) and a thousand-page Michener
epistle called “Alaska,” (which we both read) among who knows how many other
books. Our friends John and Lisa gave us a copy of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Passage to Juneau</i> by Jonathan Raban at the dock as a parting gift
in May; that is the fourth copy of this book I have owned, having lent out the
other three to people who loved it so much they never returned them, and it’s
just as good after multiple reads as it was the first time. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s kind of cool being able to read an online book review
when you get the rare one or two bars of cell signal in the middle of a place like Frederick
Sound, with not a shred of civilization in sight, and then saying, “I want to
read that book,” and then buying and downloading it right there before the cell
signal disappears. This is the happiest marriage of two unusual qualities: phone-free
wilderness, where you reclaim your once-fractured attention span, and the odd
brief cell signal, which allows you to download more books. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Yessss!</i> The bridesmaids at this wedding are
the two solar panels that let us recharge our ebook habit without having to run
the engine. (Oh, and also turning the fridge down to nuclear winter to keep the
fish frozen that Jim caught.)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The challenge, now that we’re home, will be to continue to
hang on to this reclaimed attention span. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Facing a fearsome
narrows</b> is a good time to take a brief break and tell you something we
forgot to mention in the last blog post: Another bear story! During our stay In
Dodge Cove on Digby Island near Prince Rupert, we went for a hike, which we described
in the previous post. What we didn’t tell you about was the sign at the trail
entrance: CAUTION, it said, A GRIZZLY BEAR has been seen on Digby Island near
Point Elizabeth. It appears to be HANGING OUT IN THAT AREA. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim said, “Where’s Point Elizabeth?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I dunno, but this is a big island, it has to be in some
remote part, right?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yeah, it couldn’t be around here, these folks would haze it
until it went away.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yeah. It’s probably on the Hecate Strait side, I mean
there’s a city right over there,” I pointed to Prince Rupert’s shipping docks.
“Bears avoid stuff like that.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yeah. Let’s keep going.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There must have been four or five varieties of juicy, sweet ripe
berries along the trail network, and during our two-hour hike we gorged
ourselves until our fingers were red and purple and berry juice was running
down our chins and we smelled like a couple of berry tarts. “Let’s walk out to
the point over there,” we said, and found the trail ended in a tall pier across
the harbor from where Raven was docked. Oops, dead end, retrace steps, walk the
path again, back to town, we’re sitting on the porch drinking homemade wine
with the two fishermen who asked, “So did you see the bear?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“No, it’s out at Point Elizabeth, right?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yeah…?” Raised eyebrows.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Um, where’s Point Elizabeth?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Right there,” they pointed at the pier we’d just been on.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
*Gulp*<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinqwrdylaZQJ-wHQZ2FjYZbIZHRGviU6Pfl7wDL3MjTdV0CvaeZfjHVFGf2wzsLORzDz1n0Xai0QmQVlkiEce8Gy3W58yIxulsFoGPOhz90nlxcdhg6AruHbqLCyz_qyGijSXXPNWD/s1600/22+Jim+and+a+friend.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1203" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinqwrdylaZQJ-wHQZ2FjYZbIZHRGviU6Pfl7wDL3MjTdV0CvaeZfjHVFGf2wzsLORzDz1n0Xai0QmQVlkiEce8Gy3W58yIxulsFoGPOhz90nlxcdhg6AruHbqLCyz_qyGijSXXPNWD/s320/22+Jim+and+a+friend.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just kidding. We met only friendly bears. Actually, we didn't meet any up close. Except by dinghy. That was close.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Back to some drama at
Seymour Narrows.</b> Just as we rounded Separation Point a small humpback whale
dived and showed its tail. Wow! In the past we’ve seen orcas but never
humpbacks here. This trip we saw no orcas in these waters. As soon as the right time arrived
to get going from Brown Cove toward the Narrows, two tugs and barges appeared,
going very slow and pretty much filling up the channel. We waited until they passed, then
fell in line well behind the second barge, which was stuffed full of logs hanging
thirty feet off each side and piled high. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Its tug seemed tiny in comparison, and I got a bad feeling,
so we dropped back, figuring missing slack tide was probably safer than
tangling with this barge, which was also far to port, on the wrong side of the
channel. We stayed on the starboard side. Then suddenly, the barge turned
sideways in the current; the tug struggled to straighten it out, and succeeded
after ten minutes, but then the barge turned sideways again; the tug
disappeared behind it and the barge was seized by some stray powerful whirlpool
because it shot sideways from east to west across Seymour Narrows like a
horizontal guillotine, completely out of control. And this was near slack tide!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAf6awgLFQSUJuJoNFZEHRitBUENEtx5GBNVBTaiL3VmfcYwVoBNWe2jRFEi3pE1PP15D2Jp3Rmymc81FeF2rxEt_aSNMg_enKQPAW0jgYLHfcR4QZYAMSoTuMr78eejJWWuqiJPag/s1600/23+Barge+goes+sideways%252C+Seymour+narrows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAf6awgLFQSUJuJoNFZEHRitBUENEtx5GBNVBTaiL3VmfcYwVoBNWe2jRFEi3pE1PP15D2Jp3Rmymc81FeF2rxEt_aSNMg_enKQPAW0jgYLHfcR4QZYAMSoTuMr78eejJWWuqiJPag/s320/23+Barge+goes+sideways%252C+Seymour+narrows.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The log barge gets sideways to its tug, a dangerous situation. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR-k9NBTIAV7I8yb4ZBFW14UPuz9DfnKNY78oZVCQjVGLX-PjvBt9amkJRJhsa-9D6H2Cfjlutto9Mor9aV3taK_Cf4y0fkt9Kva2dJpHo6uRiom3cdadZnXAPPyFh7aQVn-YG-TjM/s1600/24+Barge+shoots+across+narrows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR-k9NBTIAV7I8yb4ZBFW14UPuz9DfnKNY78oZVCQjVGLX-PjvBt9amkJRJhsa-9D6H2Cfjlutto9Mor9aV3taK_Cf4y0fkt9Kva2dJpHo6uRiom3cdadZnXAPPyFh7aQVn-YG-TjM/s320/24+Barge+shoots+across+narrows.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completely sideways and with the tug disappeared behind it, the log barge shoots across Seymour Narrows at high speed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We couldn’t see the tug, which was no doubt struggling.
Whirlpools and boils swirled ominously everywhere, but there was nothing we
could do; though we wanted to go faster, we had to creep along at two-plus
knots, keeping bare steerageway in order to stay away from this barge, which
had unintentionally commandeered the entire narrows less than a mile ahead of us. Fast boats could pass, but slower boats; no. Finally the
barge drifted slower and was pulled out of the main channel, but now we could
see that the tug was being pulled sideways by the barge, leaning way over as it struggled
with the tow lines. This is how tugs capsize, and it looked very close.
Thankfully and with the aid of a second tug, the little tug slowly came
upright. But if we had proceeded at normal speed through Seymour Narrows, it
would have been a close call with that barge; we would’ve been right in its
path when it shot across the channel. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Whew! Onward</b>. A stop
in some very tight quarters at a marina in Campbell River; we wanted to see this
town because we’d never been there before, and it’s worth it. After a pub stop
at Dockside Fish & Chips (excellent) we were off early next morning to
catch a salmon off Cape Mudge. But with 35 to 40 fizzboats all trolling in a
small area, it felt chaotic and maybe time to give the salmon a break, so we
moved on without catching anything, anchoring in Mud Bay south of Comox. Skies
were still smoky but a little less so. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvU46y5i6Y5lzYQ_plFnPnsjsoA9lqvByAs9zpyV6rQgQ3jPypuk7Y-_AumH9gQS5yVlzKm9DsizEqJlJfw4ESg5eCpoHSfTgyLrv4OhnE0KK4GTDFxXR-N_N7urhtAMtPA8cilZmN/s1600/25+Smoke%252C+7-00+am%252C+Strait+of+Georgia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvU46y5i6Y5lzYQ_plFnPnsjsoA9lqvByAs9zpyV6rQgQ3jPypuk7Y-_AumH9gQS5yVlzKm9DsizEqJlJfw4ESg5eCpoHSfTgyLrv4OhnE0KK4GTDFxXR-N_N7urhtAMtPA8cilZmN/s320/25+Smoke%252C+7-00+am%252C+Strait+of+Georgia.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoky sunrise, 7:00 am. On our way to fish off Cape Mudge. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7NcpAB-ouCB3lrc1QiThStw7yp26vJLS2Jx8e6LcR84MgWVEwDwrqD9V3jMjBiVH7LfjsoSGm-oEhHVjpqPJGpf1YEapmv_v1ujfrMnNpI_04FVqq9PpOxCjGgI98syDHHg5t6FX/s1600/26+High+altitude+smoke%252C+Mud+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7NcpAB-ouCB3lrc1QiThStw7yp26vJLS2Jx8e6LcR84MgWVEwDwrqD9V3jMjBiVH7LfjsoSGm-oEhHVjpqPJGpf1YEapmv_v1ujfrMnNpI_04FVqq9PpOxCjGgI98syDHHg5t6FX/s320/26+High+altitude+smoke%252C+Mud+Bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoke particles were drawn up into the atmosphere, as high as seven miles. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Xr1_r2vF015xuLIYP_XcA-ik44ZJrelEOLNtD0B_3IXWqOPnEBeIU_YzE7RB53sW6hRDOdKbn8NxDsIQXuSyuRRyakZxPAoQRt2bErvqPbjHWbUwc6jxcMUM3s1ak-7kjwS9RAa8/s1600/27+Back+of+oyster+farm%252C+Mud+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Xr1_r2vF015xuLIYP_XcA-ik44ZJrelEOLNtD0B_3IXWqOPnEBeIU_YzE7RB53sW6hRDOdKbn8NxDsIQXuSyuRRyakZxPAoQRt2bErvqPbjHWbUwc6jxcMUM3s1ak-7kjwS9RAa8/s320/27+Back+of+oyster+farm%252C+Mud+Bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A wreck next to an oyster farm at Mud Bay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Off Qualicum Beach next day there were two humpback whales,</b>
one large and one small. The large one enthusiastically slapped its tail for at
least ten minutes. Perhaps it was a mother and calf, with the mother slapping
the water to let the calf know where she was—there were a lot of fishing boats
trolling where they were feeding, and their engine noises may have bothered her. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While passing outside of the Canadian Navy’s restricted area
off the Winchelsea Islands, we were treated to an example of their superb
courtesy and humor, in comparison to the sometimes huffy, officious responses we’ve
witnessed from the American Navy. In an authentic you-get-more-flies-with-honey
approach, a Canadian Navy radio operator, talking above the audible noise of a military
helicopter towing sonar in the water looking for submarines, said to a boat
that wandered into active training operations, “Sir, you are in an active
torpedo range. A healthier course would be to make a sharp turn to starboard.” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Healthier</i>. Of course it is! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At Nanaimo we anchored and made a beeline for our beloved Dinghy Dock
Pub. This one is a strong contender for first place in the World’s Longest Pub
Crawl. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5iSB7hUUKKsA59Xk3IcvknCZado2ksnAFhGEQqvJH6ZXTcKjUpTMKqa3t0eu_BzJGwsBSghMDuNUotWHgUpDuFCFzcMNGGIKNBmqZREL6L6jdHN8-e9o63H1SQUQ_u_kFo-pFRRJ/s1600/28+Dinghy+Dock+Pub%252C+Nanaimo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5iSB7hUUKKsA59Xk3IcvknCZado2ksnAFhGEQqvJH6ZXTcKjUpTMKqa3t0eu_BzJGwsBSghMDuNUotWHgUpDuFCFzcMNGGIKNBmqZREL6L6jdHN8-e9o63H1SQUQ_u_kFo-pFRRJ/s320/28+Dinghy+Dock+Pub%252C+Nanaimo.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinghy Dock Pub, a fave.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Next morning, Dodd Narrows,
far smaller and less fearsome</b> than Seymour, but still plenty wide enough
for small cruising boats going in both directions, was like a freeway at rush
hour with no lanes. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy19ommXSCrBrgomT_JcAisL5-_D-83sHSvwIZ4Y9sInoUsppLv25V_KhpPE8zOqKzdpf3T-2V2CqWOtL-AX8hZs026IIWq3B4W8U_VpkmYfe2jeudhOojBP8Ej4GET6tu1m8B3eot/s1600/29+Small+sample+of+crowd+at+Dodd+narrows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy19ommXSCrBrgomT_JcAisL5-_D-83sHSvwIZ4Y9sInoUsppLv25V_KhpPE8zOqKzdpf3T-2V2CqWOtL-AX8hZs026IIWq3B4W8U_VpkmYfe2jeudhOojBP8Ej4GET6tu1m8B3eot/s320/29+Small+sample+of+crowd+at+Dodd+narrows.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just a few of the boats headed for Dodd Narrows. Yikes!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /> </o:p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Dodd is still worth transiting at or near slack tide, but
it’s not like you’re crawling through death’s jaws or anything. Still, everyone
was babbling on the radio, trying to warn everyone else HERE I COME, which
sounded more like LOOK OUT YOU FOOLS I DON’T KNOW IF I CAN CONTROL THIS THING,
and instead of turning the radio’s power setting down to one watt so only local
boats could hear, far too many were blasting away at 25 watts until you could
hear them all the way to Ladysmith. A few hours of that and reality TV starts
to sound pretty good. You really can slip right through Dodd
Narrows in line without talking on the radio, and you don’t have to take your
half of the channel out of the middle.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
SECURITE SECURITE, THIS IS THE… UH, POWERBOAT… UH, WE’RE IN
DODD NARROWS…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
SECURITE, SECURITE, THIS IS THE 42 FOOT TRAWLER SUN CHASER
(we had seen this boat; its swim ladder blocked part of the U and we thought it
said “Sin Chaser,” which we liked much better) WE ARE SECOND IN LINE, SOUTHBOUND,
REPEAT SOUTHBOUND, RIGHT BEHIND THE, UH, POWERBOAT… ANY CONCERNED TRAFFIC COME
BACK ON CHANNEL 16.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
…WE ARE THIRD IN LINE, REPEAT, THIRD, ANY CONCERNED TRAFFIC…
FOURTH, FIFTH, etc. All the way to seven or eight or nine boats in line calling
in, clogging the airwaves, asking for concerned traffic. Yeesh. The radio
sounded like check-in time at nautical summer camp, this session being Maritime
Correctness on Caffeine meets Trivial Pursuit. All you need is to follow the
lead boat, and maybe call if you’re last in line to give the other side an idea
of how long the line is. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
SECURITE SECURITE, SECURITE, THIS IS THE TWENTY FIVE FOOT
SAILING VESSEL BEEP-BEEP, BEEP-BEEP, BEEP-BEEP. (I swear to god, someone whose
boat was really named Beep-Beep said this that day.) WE ARE SIXTH IN LINE
BETWEEN (names boats) TRANSITING DODD NARROWS SOUTHBOUND. ANY CONCERNED TRAFFIC
COME BACK ON CHANNEL 16.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Well,” I said, “I’m concerned about climate change.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I wonder what it would be like if someone named their boat
‘Traffic’?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“What if I did a meep-meep Roadrunner schtick in reply to
that guy?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Nah, better not.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Meep-meep!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ_7PenqSdMdvOgZTTe2mCE0SrkVvthTuY4r78jsInqylBCBJJ5-JolUsWVM_zkGAag6CXMO2rv0LcmsJR73tcbMQPJvPRiawtYvpQi998A2B8kDY1mUEEcJOGHUfM4VfgdmMeJ3pl/s1600/30+Raven+enters+Ladysmith+Harbour.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ_7PenqSdMdvOgZTTe2mCE0SrkVvthTuY4r78jsInqylBCBJJ5-JolUsWVM_zkGAag6CXMO2rv0LcmsJR73tcbMQPJvPRiawtYvpQi998A2B8kDY1mUEEcJOGHUfM4VfgdmMeJ3pl/s320/30+Raven+enters+Ladysmith+Harbour.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven enters Ladysmith Harbour to stay on a guest mooring.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At Ladysmith we stopped for a nice visit with our friends
Marty and Mae, and they arranged for us to stay on a guest mooring (Thanks
Wilf!) M&M had just bought a magnificent schooner and were sorting things
out as they moved aboard. It’s currently named Phillip William, but they will
soon change the name to Wind Gypsy. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEpjZAmlzwJX16IdathVbcQr6uvyXQ7Z3djHIWQfOvai6f6lYO8ccNn4cgZBOi7iPdqZg80XsRE9Bt_-XHe-pGrJoz41ViIu7nfxJiyYX-Dki_5JVbwJU8oXWEgCiYXNPgC3JBIW64/s1600/31+Wind+Gypsy%252C+full+sail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEpjZAmlzwJX16IdathVbcQr6uvyXQ7Z3djHIWQfOvai6f6lYO8ccNn4cgZBOi7iPdqZg80XsRE9Bt_-XHe-pGrJoz41ViIu7nfxJiyYX-Dki_5JVbwJU8oXWEgCiYXNPgC3JBIW64/s320/31+Wind+Gypsy%252C+full+sail.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 42' LOD Brandlmeyer schooner <i>Wind Gypsy</i>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Oh my, what gorgeousness in every detail of this boat! We
are very happy for them. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzsczd2jBds3GrkshV3LYoMh3N7vdj4XqClXpy7QTvH9KSUHoqaizi1074YZUU-xffS3ylJkm30vfytS2Epy1hoTeqrmcMpsrfr85cEwKK8bW1uiBPvWcFiRWS-xTifc76MAQOsnW/s1600/32+Marty+steers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzsczd2jBds3GrkshV3LYoMh3N7vdj4XqClXpy7QTvH9KSUHoqaizi1074YZUU-xffS3ylJkm30vfytS2Epy1hoTeqrmcMpsrfr85cEwKK8bW1uiBPvWcFiRWS-xTifc76MAQOsnW/s320/32+Marty+steers.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marty steers Wind Gypsy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
They took us for a sail, and I got all nostalgic for sailing
boats of this size and rig (I used to own a schooner way back). <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzMboQG2kMhSopML_5qoIuPNM0P1l5CQZecSWHH5034lYv_nJSFtn8wGVHNxNjHsiBsopwKZr_O9tGo8UuOnr5U3lXqENhcjLrjIvnEcVQUhYhDz_uw7fPSmeeY2wjZh7Cz8nN4ol/s1600/33+Wind+Gypsy5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzMboQG2kMhSopML_5qoIuPNM0P1l5CQZecSWHH5034lYv_nJSFtn8wGVHNxNjHsiBsopwKZr_O9tGo8UuOnr5U3lXqENhcjLrjIvnEcVQUhYhDz_uw7fPSmeeY2wjZh7Cz8nN4ol/s320/33+Wind+Gypsy5.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice reach, one of a schooner's favorite points of sail.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were deck crew, helmspeople, and cabin top snoozers in
the sun. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0CHwBeJFLwIQIPtoFVgU17mZDfvLtNINgmLA12a7xykIUVOPzrQWXoJJISlOm5oDDsIFotIeIGZo8yPunrRRKazuAs11glrHfQ4z43z4iNNYw_KQiymQD-Eagime3PQKXkVdeGGa/s1600/34+Deck+sleepers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0CHwBeJFLwIQIPtoFVgU17mZDfvLtNINgmLA12a7xykIUVOPzrQWXoJJISlOm5oDDsIFotIeIGZo8yPunrRRKazuAs11glrHfQ4z43z4iNNYw_KQiymQD-Eagime3PQKXkVdeGGa/s320/34+Deck+sleepers.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">K&J take a snooze on deck.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And we were cookers of snapper and salmon in garlic butter
topped with toasted almonds and raspberry chipotle sauce. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9WRkmRZJtAUY6kFcjoTAivyn31M8uCo5SVInDZwldNkfdeH13J5dr7AVj-v9INwx8C_ZxbCCteiVAzay5qiuCAlYvVRa4Fm6q6sqm6zUHXonESZImpFeCdLKXfp_-boRzomtMPl5j/s1600/35+Salmon+%2526+snapper+a+la+Raven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9WRkmRZJtAUY6kFcjoTAivyn31M8uCo5SVInDZwldNkfdeH13J5dr7AVj-v9INwx8C_ZxbCCteiVAzay5qiuCAlYvVRa4Fm6q6sqm6zUHXonESZImpFeCdLKXfp_-boRzomtMPl5j/s320/35+Salmon+%2526+snapper+a+la+Raven.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh yeah, behbeh! Salmon (left) and snapper (right) all caught by Jim. Pan-sauteed in garlic butter and topped with toasted almonds and raspberry chipotle sauce.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And consumers of the finest box wine. And some Bourbon.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq5xxjg5d698ApoYrLDuE4NZnJkNrdDgj8fXNbZnJlrrW3ca6rpe4YMA-8aJ4M1RGi8CoOkUBnVp2xqm6ooT5wLckSVeFWd5ZGGeeLtfkGbdLdabUj570LkBz5vLZ1mpU7pjzkqoLI/s1600/36+Dinner+aboard+Raven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq5xxjg5d698ApoYrLDuE4NZnJkNrdDgj8fXNbZnJlrrW3ca6rpe4YMA-8aJ4M1RGi8CoOkUBnVp2xqm6ooT5wLckSVeFWd5ZGGeeLtfkGbdLdabUj570LkBz5vLZ1mpU7pjzkqoLI/s320/36+Dinner+aboard+Raven.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner on the ole Raven.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were big smilers and laughers who promised not to let too
much time pass before seeing each other again. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnXja_AlMq17-qTRt3g1yUWOSTZ-V5PFil_wx7dkAaK4_QgkxGP7txsIJys9m6Uo8V2a2dzpcEvxrpBG6Bd_DSdlY-r64B4Q9lQlg-zkE7-yf3lCxxAWzCWciQ73wpOabLkCmgn0Ma/s1600/37+Four+friends.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnXja_AlMq17-qTRt3g1yUWOSTZ-V5PFil_wx7dkAaK4_QgkxGP7txsIJys9m6Uo8V2a2dzpcEvxrpBG6Bd_DSdlY-r64B4Q9lQlg-zkE7-yf3lCxxAWzCWciQ73wpOabLkCmgn0Ma/s320/37+Four+friends.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Four friends.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><br />The horse smelled the
barn,</b> and we were eager to get home. Once again we were looking for a
weather window to cross the Strait of Juan de Fuca. It came two days later, to
be followed by 25 knots of wind, so we went for it with a couple of long days and
crossed on a glass-smooth sea, back to our beloved Port Townsend. As we entered
the narrow channel into Boat Haven, there was Leif, Raven’s designer and
builder, with his camera. And at the dock there was a big welcoming committee
we hadn’t expected! Oscar, Carol, Leif, Anna, Peter, Denis, Gordon, and a
little puppy named Indie. It was a wonderful welcome, with everyone grinning to
beat the band. Home is a place, but also a feeling. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAE5VZqGvvaG59TnpnZObAvT3CkH2K1_NAOpJ-Tvk-d7KT1hhG30u12p0-_-ZPbkV30nR5fWIdJaT-WjGwWxrBkIQ3lYaalF7FNMt31g_VRLzGnN2RfgOepJQtnjmFdowqjUz9bHjk/s1600/38+The+gang+waiting+at+our+slip.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="486" data-original-width="544" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAE5VZqGvvaG59TnpnZObAvT3CkH2K1_NAOpJ-Tvk-d7KT1hhG30u12p0-_-ZPbkV30nR5fWIdJaT-WjGwWxrBkIQ3lYaalF7FNMt31g_VRLzGnN2RfgOepJQtnjmFdowqjUz9bHjk/s320/38+The+gang+waiting+at+our+slip.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Da Gang waiting. Oscar waves us in.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">We are “of a certain
age”</b> (and what’s so “certain” about it we don’t know) where most of us
worry about and freely discuss with our certain age peers our eyesight,
creaking joints, cholesterol, heart health, and the condition of other personal
items you don’t want to hear about. But one thing we are certain about is that
we love where we live. (As if to prove the point about eyesight, Autocorrect
changed ‘we love where we live’ to ‘we Lloyd where we live.’ If anyone knows
how to Lloyd where you live, please inform the makers of Autocorrect.) But I digress.
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Although we come from an unhurried town where gentrification
and car culture are slowly oozing their way across its fair acres, you can
still walk miles of trails, some of which lead nowhere in particular except
into the woods, which is precisely the point in an age obsessed with always
going somewhere. It’s the shore-based version of the Slow August philosophy,
which will, I’m certain, one day be pedestaled up there as the Sixth Great
Philosophy of Life. The first five philosophies are: Epicureanism, Stoicism,
Platonism, Aristotelianism, and one more I forget but vaguely recall that it’s
grumpily incompatible with the five W’s, which are: wine, women, welshing,
wasting and woolgathering. Don’t worry, I wasn’t going to go all motivational
moment on you with the other five W’s of life, which are who, what, when, where
and why we’re all so special.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In small towns everywhere you could probably extend that
Slow August feeling into September, well into autumn, and even winter, though
at that point it might be Molasses January. The point is, as the Off Center
Harbor folks say, “Start off slow, then ease up.” When you slow down, you’ll
notice things more; the sense of appreciation seems to increase with a
proportional decrease in life speed. You end up actually spending more time
with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">yourself</i> as well as with your
friends. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Take it from the King and Queen of Slow, this is the
antidote for a hopped-up, stressed-out world.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRtR2STbUVhfFFzFYZsmujwdAUwEpxggPchSQq55ZrS4sc0Ghr1e7EfgpG30WHa9xwJw9BZsRbABYrfSn-3YUFkKVgP6B-XCCxOViAa8IJiLyjj07DJVutPJwz3IY8vq7dqhIuNSRV/s1600/39+Boat+Haven.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="573" data-original-width="541" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRtR2STbUVhfFFzFYZsmujwdAUwEpxggPchSQq55ZrS4sc0Ghr1e7EfgpG30WHa9xwJw9BZsRbABYrfSn-3YUFkKVgP6B-XCCxOViAa8IJiLyjj07DJVutPJwz3IY8vq7dqhIuNSRV/s320/39+Boat+Haven.png" width="302" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boat Haven fairway, entering for the first time in nearly four months. Good to be home.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">I love the fact that
in our town</b> we can still get a good breakfast at the local pharmacy’s
dining section while gazing across the aisle at shelves full of horehound
candy, Forever Comfy Gel (gel??), Lint Lizards, and a Potato Express. The
latter brings an image of a Lionel train set loaded with Idaho spuds going around
and around, to nowhere. But these are the kinds of things that make you pause
over your eggs and wonder, who spent their life’s energy inventing that? This
is a town where, at the Rose Theatre someone with note cards comes out before
the movie begins and tells behind-the-scenes stories about the making of the
movie you’re about to see, and then you clap for her and she says “Enjoy!” and
the movie starts. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s a town that, because it’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">that</i> good, you may need to leave every so often in order to feel the
homesickness and <u><a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/p/love-letter-to-port-townsend.html" target="_blank">remember how much you belong</a></u>, how much you’re going to
appreciate it when you get home. It’s home, and home goes just as well with
Slow August as away does. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he
comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow.” –Lin Yutang<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXWhBU4SZ3taA-jbjcTdcrsSaoDH2N7j98NSgIHz7cqL9KsaAKMHXNLVh1jGjVZBmHOjcBW8P9FtLKcgrEtIPqzgC2KArEDZw987dzre2lBnnsk599aJnZ8TXmhJ434rti39E9w4JZ/s1600/40+Karen+the+figurehead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXWhBU4SZ3taA-jbjcTdcrsSaoDH2N7j98NSgIHz7cqL9KsaAKMHXNLVh1jGjVZBmHOjcBW8P9FtLKcgrEtIPqzgC2KArEDZw987dzre2lBnnsk599aJnZ8TXmhJ434rti39E9w4JZ/s320/40+Karen+the+figurehead.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start off slow, then ease up.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> Oh, and to all our readers, followers and commenters--thanks! </o:p></div>
<br />
<!--EndFragment--><br />Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-62150606170389397132018-08-07T17:41:00.002-07:002018-08-28T17:17:30.305-07:00Salmonchanted Evening<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUqRr8bo28-g265ATiAkarjZVVPMD7y5V93r0lpZ6BdFXXV0pXdUzy5OgCJLfS5rJKiKxH6cc5H28YHTNV3_M4hjRwpWMvMEWsFxH7QOmwbPhqZZhSf2-ziqpgjeK8vXwjznJHqZk-/s1600/1+Jim+imitates+an+otter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUqRr8bo28-g265ATiAkarjZVVPMD7y5V93r0lpZ6BdFXXV0pXdUzy5OgCJLfS5rJKiKxH6cc5H28YHTNV3_M4hjRwpWMvMEWsFxH7QOmwbPhqZZhSf2-ziqpgjeK8vXwjznJHqZk-/s320/1+Jim+imitates+an+otter.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim as a sea otter. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
“You might want to make a note for the blog,” said Jim as we
left Craig, Alaska, on Prince of Wales Island, bound for another spell in the
wilderness. “Five fishermen have warned us about Skookumchuck Narrows—but maybe
you should wait to see if we survive it.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Roger dodger, my codger.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Actually, our biggest fear was not tidal currents but uncharted
rocks. The charts aren’t always accurate, especially about depth, and the
cruising guide says surprises exist and to watch out. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUO1LoorjQjLE9AGBpv8bAzEnz5mwi-iqp2BKayc4AaDsnZr6vrr3438a272ALVQhPdeS1Feinu7wEmzI_fDfBLwvHDAat6Kba6R7sqZXHpihyJHggEf16u3Yk8Y9hQdQAec9vEJY/s1600/2+Raven+at+Pt+Refugio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUO1LoorjQjLE9AGBpv8bAzEnz5mwi-iqp2BKayc4AaDsnZr6vrr3438a272ALVQhPdeS1Feinu7wEmzI_fDfBLwvHDAat6Kba6R7sqZXHpihyJHggEf16u3Yk8Y9hQdQAec9vEJY/s320/2+Raven+at+Pt+Refugio.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven anchored at Port Refugio, a good harbor.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Also known as Tlevak Narrows and nicknamed Skookumchuck by
fishermen, this passage is easy enough if you go through on slack tide, so we
did. But the critter action! Oh my. It was so distracting we could hardly steer
straight. You try keeping your boat on course in some narrow channel when a
whale surfaces 50 feet off your starboard bow, while nearby another whale is
bubble-feeding on schools of herring hippity-hopping out of the water like showers
of little silvery arrows, as eleven eagles (Jim counted) sit on a branch of a big
overhanging tree watching you watch the whales stirring up the herring. It felt
like a Friday night in junior high school at the McDonald’s parking lot.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We are mighty glad the whales and eagles were finding enough
to eat, because the fishing wasn’t that good for us humans. We had no luck
catching salmon, shrimp or crabs, but did catch a couple of rockfish. Even
commercial fishermen were having a hard time; everyone said the salmon run was
late, that because of the hot dry weather they were waiting for rain to swell
the streams they needed to swim up in order to spawn. Who knew salmon did that?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Trolling back and forth in the Strait, we caught nothing.
“We’re throwing everything we’ve got into this effort,” said Jim, “I have a
diver, a flasher, and a hootchie down there.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“How about a kootchie? What fish is going to want a hootchie
without some kootchie, too?” (And was I right? Huh? We caught nada.)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicfnMVRRcA7gB-3qjoNwA4vNv7v_d3B_SIdjfVGfmQydXtqGnmq-5vVRB6GrmJAN41UUykBTMpwX2ypmSM6EDL_md-SXxepSshWv6mN10zu0lncj9c63tJLHM-b663dR9LCV4skK6-/s1600/2a+Milk+thing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicfnMVRRcA7gB-3qjoNwA4vNv7v_d3B_SIdjfVGfmQydXtqGnmq-5vVRB6GrmJAN41UUykBTMpwX2ypmSM6EDL_md-SXxepSshWv6mN10zu0lncj9c63tJLHM-b663dR9LCV4skK6-/s320/2a+Milk+thing.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Um, Sweetie, we've gotta get the milk thing under control since we turned the fridge down to nuclear winter.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
To make conversation (as if we need a prompt, nyuk nyuk) Jim
pointed and said, “We’re passing the Petrel Islets.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“In the anti-universe they’d be the Petrel Isn’t-lets.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We anchored in a couple of nice coves going down the strait,
including Breezy Bay, where Jim paddled the kayak and I rowed the dinghy up a
tidal stream past a couple of sandhill cranes standing on a sandbar. They
watched us warily. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpwq651PRh5H_tdR3hMlB7FhwK7LsLcUvd37ENrfJbbYvdVeqJ0csdsrTyDfBCrYYQ1o_dSvRwbuWLG0CTONnIFk4wydKTYut_xybY3ODOARC8cynaMC0MoXaQ5alblM4zPzNnZPG2/s1600/3+Sandhill+cranes%252C+Pt+Refugio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpwq651PRh5H_tdR3hMlB7FhwK7LsLcUvd37ENrfJbbYvdVeqJ0csdsrTyDfBCrYYQ1o_dSvRwbuWLG0CTONnIFk4wydKTYut_xybY3ODOARC8cynaMC0MoXaQ5alblM4zPzNnZPG2/s320/3+Sandhill+cranes%252C+Pt+Refugio.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice to see sandhill cranes here! Port Refugio.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The good news about rowing is it’s fun and feels good. The
bad news about rowing is that you go forward while facing backward, which
renders you unable to see what’s ahead. From his kayak Jim said, “There’s a
bear right in front of you.” The best news about a rowboat is that you have
brakes. We held a silent staring contest with the bear, which it would have
surely won had we been ashore.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLNhWG5UIwEr14s2svdOKd3zy3Jb0Q6chftVZMwFf3WuW-QsgzrvqyJ-ysS2KDbPPwop1Bk6EgTpwga_KG5hFqOENjov4v_vSGN3RkV9qTOmCs2BQSwV3RrVov5NswlmQtzCEnMbeK/s1600/4+Karen+meets+bear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLNhWG5UIwEr14s2svdOKd3zy3Jb0Q6chftVZMwFf3WuW-QsgzrvqyJ-ysS2KDbPPwop1Bk6EgTpwga_KG5hFqOENjov4v_vSGN3RkV9qTOmCs2BQSwV3RrVov5NswlmQtzCEnMbeK/s320/4+Karen+meets+bear.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen spun around. "Did you say 'bear in front of me'?"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We decided to try a
remote tiny anchorage</b> further down the strait that has a difficult rock-studded
entrance, called Ham Cove.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcNFGeRTtd4wcdP3-ZhqsnM8rzkfBKtnado12giFJ6fgpl60eAggc6ZEQ6IWITNWCy-PEFG-5BpPLFoe2YBmisQV9Qgh-V_xdMIj9xdJKNjEos7i2G4glyVQ5y0Ais-mowX6NlUyuy/s1600/5+Otters+in+kelp+outside+Ham+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcNFGeRTtd4wcdP3-ZhqsnM8rzkfBKtnado12giFJ6fgpl60eAggc6ZEQ6IWITNWCy-PEFG-5BpPLFoe2YBmisQV9Qgh-V_xdMIj9xdJKNjEos7i2G4glyVQ5y0Ais-mowX6NlUyuy/s320/5+Otters+in+kelp+outside+Ham+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Otters in their kelp spa outside Ham Cove (some are splashing)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We have no idea how it got that name. Just outside the
entrance, not far from a bunch of otters lounging in kelp, another whale, a
small humpback, surfaced; honestly, it’s either been like the cetacean
welcoming committee has been working overtime this summer, or whales just love cove
entrances; regardless, we are loving every minute of it. Easing between the
whale and the (charted) rocks into Ham Cove proper, which doesn’t show any
rocks on the chart, we nosed into the little side anchorage that’s just big
enough for one boat. Several species of birds were busy diving for something in
the water. As we glided forward toward the middle, a seagull landed on the
water right in front of us and was obviously not going to move. That’s odd, I
thought, and turned slightly to go around it. Suddenly Jim, who was at the bow,
turned back toward me pointing straight downward, with a shocked worried expression.
“ROCK!” he said. I looked down, and we were right on top of it. Our worst
nightmare came true, but there were no scraping sounds or bumps yet, so I threw
the engine into reverse and looked down at the rock, which had appeared from
nowhere and resembled granite with its little bits of gray and white, slightly
stripey, which caused me to identify the rock as a very fine specimen of gneiss
(weird things run through your head when you’re on a rock.). And then, like
something biblical, the rock parted. It flowed around the boat. It was not lava
from some underground volcano, no, it was, as the song goes, a genuine shoal of
herring, or maybe baby salmon, so thick and all lined up that it resembled a
solid mass of rock, and it scared the living bejesus out of us. We anchored in
30 rockless feet of water in Ham Cove’s center.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjODmtZOPQrJGeq8CDrTqjGXrtOyIKjTIzqLWyi65iB4FrGBz4FVbtXmQkRIakLt5Dt4NdTOLrFLpony5vcVLDt8skZ4e35U6bmwmKKRPkI-rXc4ylJKk6QPRj8EnoxLJrEvJmuuzQR/s1600/5a+Ham+Cove.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1136" data-original-width="640" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjODmtZOPQrJGeq8CDrTqjGXrtOyIKjTIzqLWyi65iB4FrGBz4FVbtXmQkRIakLt5Dt4NdTOLrFLpony5vcVLDt8skZ4e35U6bmwmKKRPkI-rXc4ylJKk6QPRj8EnoxLJrEvJmuuzQR/s320/5a+Ham+Cove.png" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The best anchorage (if you can stand the terror) is the blue cove to the right of the island.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYE6E8_3fRAyDAXacZEKusfHUJOtaeOLwPi61hOZmRGsuB1cPHFuXCmH1DSMxUBi1ya_f29DFECdgzIrfKq0bNumOOb8Rd6tezAqZsly2g2I61FA06wYLJbBtNzfSzUVdQJrZD9irv/s1600/6+Sunset%252C+Ham+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYE6E8_3fRAyDAXacZEKusfHUJOtaeOLwPi61hOZmRGsuB1cPHFuXCmH1DSMxUBi1ya_f29DFECdgzIrfKq0bNumOOb8Rd6tezAqZsly2g2I61FA06wYLJbBtNzfSzUVdQJrZD9irv/s320/6+Sunset%252C+Ham+Cove.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset, Ham Cove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Whew. Let’s try to relax. “I’m going to put the pot out,”
said Jim, “and see if I can catch a ham.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We explored a large shallow lagoon with two waterfalls. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4m32ay77C11n4IoXgS1RZiJb1jDINylZlWK90ahho6uma3VSyyf10fkVbrxIZ6lVfEDFD8ZtI6RC6a7JHCNJdpbpKvRDSIqg9Y3MPDAlYUQmMafRIagf24JOLprDOMJMhW2cxJJ5f/s1600/7+Good+bearbitat%252C+Ham+Cove+lagoon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4m32ay77C11n4IoXgS1RZiJb1jDINylZlWK90ahho6uma3VSyyf10fkVbrxIZ6lVfEDFD8ZtI6RC6a7JHCNJdpbpKvRDSIqg9Y3MPDAlYUQmMafRIagf24JOLprDOMJMhW2cxJJ5f/s320/7+Good+bearbitat%252C+Ham+Cove+lagoon.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is good bearbitat. Back lagoon, Ham Cove.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The next morning there was one small, very happy rock crab
in our trap, which we could almost hear giggling as it slipped out through the
bars and plopped into the water. But our ham steaks that night were delicious,
so who cared, and the ham-lentil soup later still makes our mouths water. We
confess, though, that a nice crab dinner would have been great in Ham Cove.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">One rather unpleasant
incident</b>—as we motored south along the east coast of Dall Island, a
speeding boat appeared on the horizon, probably coming back from fishing off
Cape Muzon, which juts into the North Pacific. It seemed to be heading straight
toward us at a very high rate of speed, so we made a 45 degree turn to
starboard to let its captain know our intentions to pass port to port. But as
it drew near it turned <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">toward</i> us, and
now we could see it was moving at around 40 or 50 knots. Since we had no
sea-room on our starboard side and wanted to make our intentions crystal-clear,
we did a 135-degree turn to port while the speeding boat was still a mile away,
which put Raven, doing her full 6 knots, at a 90 degree angle to their course
and heading away from them. With the speed they were going there’d be no room
for error in a close pass, so we wanted to make our intentions clear that we
were giving them right-of-way regardless of the law. Our wish to avoid them was
obvious. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But again they turned toward us, and now we knew it was
deliberate. They were making their intentions known that they would pass very
close to us at a high rate of speed. It’s very intimidating, so we got out the
binoculars and barely managed to read the large lettered name and see an image
of an anchor on the side of the 30 or 35-foot aluminum hull as they roared past
at close to 50 knots with a boatload of waving passengers, some of whose
blurred faces appeared to be laughing. A boat that size going that fast, with
passengers aboard to boot, has no business intimidating a smaller, slower boat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Norma J, Norma J, Norma J, this is the motor vessel
Raven.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
No answer. I tried radioing them again. Nothing. Now it’s a
given that charter fishing vessel captains usually keep their VHF radios on, so
since they weren’t answering and since we were somewhat steamed by their
behavior, I put out what’s pronounced as a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pawn-pawn</i>
radio warning call but is spelled <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pan-pan</i>.
“Pan-pan, pan-pan, pan-pan, this is the motor vessel Raven, southbound in
Tlevak Strait off Reef Point. The charter fishing vessel Norma J just forced us
to take emergency evasive action and behaved recklessly, passing too close to
us at around 40 or 50 knots. We advise any vessels north of here to be on the lookout
and to avoid this vessel.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Not long after that, the Coast Guard called us, asked for a
description of the boat and details of the incident, and said they’d
investigate it. We later got a garbled phone message from them, but we’ve been mostly
offline and unable to re-connect. It’s not a good feeling to have some fast
boat bearing recklessly down on you while you’re doing everything you can to
avoid a collision, but there is something you can do about it; the Coast Guard
can help, because anyone who takes out passengers for hire must have a Coast
Guard captain’s license, and the agency takes safety very seriously. Even if
it’s a private boat presenting a threat to life and safety, if you can get its
name or registration numbers to report you have an avenue of redress.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The windswept
archipelago called the Barrier Islands</b> are a wild place we’d been looking
forward to visiting, because they’re in an official wilderness area west of
Cape Chacon, right at the edge of Dixon Entrance and the open sea. They didn’t
disappoint, and just outside them we caught the exact type of fish that a
fisherman in Craig had recommended for his recipe to make “poor man’s lobster.”
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU5T8PkDD8dwKINVE-Rs-RwvJopC3L1WL0ZnzRS5cXbjIx4lxiFxH7GN5CNHNJGG0D9pFjjhAWCcQACmGYssdvvLQx1FQmVR6Uxz3OKY5mtd_WSzUSC80-HQklfO92WWEqbl5Pmcy0/s1600/8+12-lb+red+snapper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU5T8PkDD8dwKINVE-Rs-RwvJopC3L1WL0ZnzRS5cXbjIx4lxiFxH7GN5CNHNJGG0D9pFjjhAWCcQACmGYssdvvLQx1FQmVR6Uxz3OKY5mtd_WSzUSC80-HQklfO92WWEqbl5Pmcy0/s320/8+12-lb+red+snapper.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A twelve-pound red snapper! Also known as a yellow-eyed rockfish, these fish can be legally caught in Alaska but not in Canada.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p>Both New Englanders originally, he and I had lamented how
long it had been since a real Maine lobster had graced either of our plates, so
here’s the recipe: Take a red snapper, which has firm flesh in wide flakes, and
boil lobster tail-sized chunks in straight seawater with a lot of sugar mixed
in, enough to give the broth a simultaneous salt-sweet flavor. The taste and
texture will be something like a good old <i>Homaris
americanus</i>, he said, especially if you dip it in melted butter. And it was!
Totally delicious and a fun pretend, but nothing can replace <i>real</i> lobster. Except maybe a nice fat
Dungeness crab. Boiled in salt water, crack the shell, pick out those gleaming
chunks, dip ‘em in butter or Jim’s favorite sauce of horseradish mixed with
ketchup, and oh man, am I making myself hungry or what.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3aTztiYfdkAEmZnEier_uKVweZZlbJ91xYxA9A5L_LrPn2gkz50o7J3sh1S64NIcBXeFWzWsprsx-rIkH2h2UxzZJ1oXsQbGhMw4iIMmWLARjKh0183vFaClJBgyoH3fmlmdICvCY/s1600/9+Poor+Man%2527s+Lobster.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3aTztiYfdkAEmZnEier_uKVweZZlbJ91xYxA9A5L_LrPn2gkz50o7J3sh1S64NIcBXeFWzWsprsx-rIkH2h2UxzZJ1oXsQbGhMw4iIMmWLARjKh0183vFaClJBgyoH3fmlmdICvCY/s320/9+Poor+Man%2527s+Lobster.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poor man's lobster. (in the bowl, not on the chair.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
With all the kelp in these islands it was hard to get the
anchor to hold, even by carefully backing it slowly in, plus most anchorages in
the Barriers were exposed to at least one wind direction, requiring you to move
if the wind shifts. But we found a spot in an unnamed cove that was shallow
enough where we didn’t have to put out miles of anchor rode, and thought, oh good,
this is perfect. Jumping into the dinghy, we circumnavigated rocky, bird-rich
Middle Island, 7 miles in all, but found on returning to Raven that the wind
had shifted. Now there was the possibility of being put on a lee shore with a
large fetch in a kelpy holding area, so it was time to move.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">As we weighed anchor
to find a safer spot</b> for the night, a massive wad of bull kelp wrapped
itself around the prop. The engine gave a shudder as the prop tore through it,
but kept going. I mean, it’s a big 3-bladed prop and that was just kelp, right?
Then we noticed a 15 to 20 percent reduction in speed and power, and a
vibration that hadn’t been there before. Uh-oh. What just happened? Was there
an old crab pot line down there? Worriedly, we went at reduced speed, 5 miles
to another anchorage, found the kelp too thick for anchoring there, too, and
finally succeeded at a third one. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The thing about some
of these wilder northern anchorages</b> is that the charts might say it’s 50
feet deep, which is reasonable for anchoring a small boat, but then you get
there and it’s 85 feet, which is a bit deep because by the time you let out
enough rode for that depth you’re at risk of swinging into the rocks that line
the cove. When there’s that much kelp covering the bottom it’s hard to get the
anchor to bite unless you’re on a much larger boat with a very heavy anchor on
all chain. This is why so many fishing boats carry heavy, navy-style anchors;
their weight sinks through all that kelp and in calm weather they can sit atop
that pile of chain on the bottom. In smaller pleasure boats, the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">design</i> of an anchor comes much more into
play than does weight. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh69pRhDNuKn5CeCES7h4XQAAnAt613R8pW3ikkYQBPjhfIOID46noebaAFFcU1YkJIHk1QlTnKlGBMGH0_jTXRnpTSGGOLojp5IHauIaORuF0GDaElJDFm3MoJOnBfbqLTBycDA42/s1600/9a+Fog+N+of+Ivory+Island2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh69pRhDNuKn5CeCES7h4XQAAnAt613R8pW3ikkYQBPjhfIOID46noebaAFFcU1YkJIHk1QlTnKlGBMGH0_jTXRnpTSGGOLojp5IHauIaORuF0GDaElJDFm3MoJOnBfbqLTBycDA42/s320/9a+Fog+N+of+Ivory+Island2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check out the optical effects of fog! It's just off the ground so you can see trees, but is reflected in the water, where it meets.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Normally we drop, slowly back down, let the anchor settle in
at low RPMs, and then very slowly increase the RPMs to between 1200 and 1500,
depending on how much wind is forecast and how well we want to sleep. It takes
a bit more time to anchor like this, but it gives us a good idea of the bottom
characteristics and the grip our anchor has. We do have 4 anchors and a
thousand feet of anchor rode aboard, one being a big Herreshoff-style monster weighing
60 pounds, but unless there’s a storm threatening, it’s a lot of work to deploy
and retrieve. Other options might be sending a 25-lb kellet down the rode to increase
the “scope,” or holding power, and we have a nice kellet aboard. Other options
would include deploying a second anchor on a separate rode, or attaching a
second anchor to the primary rode, but our rule is if we can’t get the primary
anchor to bite and there are other anchorage options, we move on, and use these
other devices only if we run out of anchorages. Because if you can’t get one
anchor to bite, what good are two if it really starts to blow?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-aIi5evKKw_6F5MVg7ATY2NTndJzAWfZu2VZ9oYk2em_vo-5c6gBpIW7S0WXMHvc1Ib-CDePnJvopw2cdk1MLfgxRJMydhWG8VKgIpoj927sqdg5qzXwo1yRQwq7Tp7bm6oPwAeyp/s1600/10+Hitchhikers+off+Campania+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-aIi5evKKw_6F5MVg7ATY2NTndJzAWfZu2VZ9oYk2em_vo-5c6gBpIW7S0WXMHvc1Ib-CDePnJvopw2cdk1MLfgxRJMydhWG8VKgIpoj927sqdg5qzXwo1yRQwq7Tp7bm6oPwAeyp/s320/10+Hitchhikers+off+Campania+Island.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two hitchhikers. They were so big we thought hummingbirds were landing on the boat. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>So, while a navigational
chart up here will have a number like 50</b> representing an entire depth
contour, the 50 foot part is meant to show the shallowest depth in that entire
contour, which is usually right up next to the rocks. It’s not a bad practice
to add at least 20 feet to charted depths when choosing an anchorage up here,
and then another 15 or so for high tide because depths on charts are for mean
(average) low water. On Raven’s bower anchor we carry 60 feet of chain attached
to 300 feet of rope, which is adequate for most places.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Jim was in the water
next morning</b> at 7:15, something that for those of you who<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>know about his absolute love for and
insistence on hibernatory late sleeping, would agree that under normal
circumstances I should’ve been dialing the doctor, but we had miles to go and
Jim had a new wetsuit bought expressly for an eventuality like this. So in he
went, carrying a special rescue knife given to us by our friend Alex, (Yay!
Thanks Alex!) and he found a few strands of shredded kelp but not as much as
you’d have thought might be there to make a vibration. Perhaps the rest of it had
fallen off in the night. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3N70QPmm03162YyDTjpAIy7TlJcVfH7e9a8ZIaIpUkxiEKuxtfMH7VLj8vglMkZTE90HA9lz90bJZBSXgT44-CSCuao6hIydAnikedv8bO2ZLQ2Ca1XIdN1hAtAMUqNNPx8Vec-8Q/s1600/11+Jim+dives+w+Alex%2527s+knife.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3N70QPmm03162YyDTjpAIy7TlJcVfH7e9a8ZIaIpUkxiEKuxtfMH7VLj8vglMkZTE90HA9lz90bJZBSXgT44-CSCuao6hIydAnikedv8bO2ZLQ2Ca1XIdN1hAtAMUqNNPx8Vec-8Q/s320/11+Jim+dives+w+Alex%2527s+knife.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sharpest knife in the drawer!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Just as Jim is a night owl content to snooze away a
perfectly good morning, I am a lark who usually goes to bed fairly early. One
evening Jim said, “You have decanted to bed.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Decamped, Sweetie.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Decanted. You have poured yourself in there.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Relieved to find the
engine working normally again</b>, we threaded through the maze of islands to
get around Cape Chacon, which has a bad reputation. With a good weather
forecast to get past Dixon Entrance, you don’t tarry, or you could get stuck
for a couple of weeks. To limit our exposure to sideways swells coming in from
the Gulf of Alaska, (remember this is a powerboat without steadying sails) we
decided to try the rocky shortcut called Minnie Cutoff, which was highly recommended
by our fishermen friends. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWuiqE5GGJplyZ3WLiVm6pfJN4MZf5BTW0HxGbWImrrnEWw_URtu69kI13k-wdMasjCpy8hDpIQEDFq1J5pEMQZYpaYe38R63bovn2C5vd97DiCASc-dPSaAGcr8FSrsiFZj8GAkPl/s1600/12+Minnie+Cutoff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWuiqE5GGJplyZ3WLiVm6pfJN4MZf5BTW0HxGbWImrrnEWw_URtu69kI13k-wdMasjCpy8hDpIQEDFq1J5pEMQZYpaYe38R63bovn2C5vd97DiCASc-dPSaAGcr8FSrsiFZj8GAkPl/s320/12+Minnie+Cutoff.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The very narrow Minnie Cutoff, gateway to the sea from the Barrier Islands.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now, normally one might look at it on the chart and go,
nuh-uh, not there, but several had recommended it, so off we went. Until the
very last part, which caused us to consider turning around, it was scenic and
easy if you paid attention. But hoo boy, the narrow rocky “gate” at the far end
was choked with thick kelp, which we now had good reason to fear given recent
experience and the fact that we were in one of the more remote parts of
Southeast Alaska. But we held our breaths and went for it, on the far right
side where the kelp is thinner, right next to the rocks. Whew!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAJAh08u5FzR0eTR-m310DQT48Qei2-QO9J8sq_XLiRWDsjDXW5uRlw1zuh9VYhE2_cCTu0_vOovl5TZNTNa2I9y2ZUSaq2wLlmGIDhkRac2cHKoLJmtTZDvz2v5lLB6SfJF-PTsy/s1600/13+Nervous+at+Minnie+Cutoff+passage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXAJAh08u5FzR0eTR-m310DQT48Qei2-QO9J8sq_XLiRWDsjDXW5uRlw1zuh9VYhE2_cCTu0_vOovl5TZNTNa2I9y2ZUSaq2wLlmGIDhkRac2cHKoLJmtTZDvz2v5lLB6SfJF-PTsy/s320/13+Nervous+at+Minnie+Cutoff+passage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nervously navigating through the kelp at Minnie Cutoff.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The reward on the other side was a whale surfacing right
next to us with its mouth open. Yippee! A couple minutes later it turned on its
back and waved its flippers! Holy kippered herring, Batman!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG3jIZHlmg18fuxEC2QYLQgture02YWBqJpnnEaSTXP5eIECBmacj51yTLC_X5XNq8R0EsBpCzHHlNJ55q3trJUSkdqYA4qzrRjiaRmIiVT3j8V7KHL-UR59XjhNQlRCmmk9sOFeKx/s1600/14+Cape+Chacon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG3jIZHlmg18fuxEC2QYLQgture02YWBqJpnnEaSTXP5eIECBmacj51yTLC_X5XNq8R0EsBpCzHHlNJ55q3trJUSkdqYA4qzrRjiaRmIiVT3j8V7KHL-UR59XjhNQlRCmmk9sOFeKx/s320/14+Cape+Chacon.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cape Chacon; the fog parted for a moment to give us this glimpse.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Rounding Cape Chacon
was easy though a bit foggy</b>, and after passing Stone Rock (REALLY? They couldn’t
have thought of a better name?) which guarded, wait for it… Stone Rock Bay, we
anchored in Gardner Bay near the south tip of Prince of Wales Island with what
seemed like the entire fishing fleet and four buy-boats.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRxIY64ZaGZSLQ_TClRuCKvAVZduidBUWSBU7Y3UIa2Mchwxs7pXlyQr7bvfI0MNm-iEju5kTPd2kQ166Je_76shyphenhyphenvZ-4V5uRtkU-MnXoGqhaKnoedbAI0K9jJpw7BURaaEggE5GqI/s1600/15+Gardner+Bay+fishing+fleet+at+work.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRxIY64ZaGZSLQ_TClRuCKvAVZduidBUWSBU7Y3UIa2Mchwxs7pXlyQr7bvfI0MNm-iEju5kTPd2kQ166Je_76shyphenhyphenvZ-4V5uRtkU-MnXoGqhaKnoedbAI0K9jJpw7BURaaEggE5GqI/s320/15+Gardner+Bay+fishing+fleet+at+work.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gardner bay fishing fleet worked most of the night.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Watching the seiners, trawlers and gillnetters line up to
offload their fish until all hours of the night, we appreciated how hard these
men and women work.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Some of the thickest fog
we’d seen so far greeted us</b> in the early morning, but fog sometimes makes
for flat water, and with light winds in the forecast and the radar spinning we
chugged east along the north side of Dixon Entrance to our final Alaskan cove,
in Nakat Harbor. At the 3/10 mile wide channel just before our anchorage, four
gillnetters had set their nets, blocking its entire width except for a tiny
50-foot channel next to the rocks, through which we slipped, wondering if it’s
legal to block a channel like that. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAB-E9vLf30-b0G32yzlcnSmN4qqlyVriMFn_J8hUdNvNSFr5QtBmcWTBvXYHlpGub5GyorD6ue4gfG4ZAfD9C-q6t-ahIFwuHoP9K6jBuk0sVVA-jwuOPj1Abm7NQg_yXcjkwRGD1/s1600/16+Gilnetting+at+Nakat+Harbor+channel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAB-E9vLf30-b0G32yzlcnSmN4qqlyVriMFn_J8hUdNvNSFr5QtBmcWTBvXYHlpGub5GyorD6ue4gfG4ZAfD9C-q6t-ahIFwuHoP9K6jBuk0sVVA-jwuOPj1Abm7NQg_yXcjkwRGD1/s320/16+Gilnetting+at+Nakat+Harbor+channel.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gill net across an entire channel except for a small opening.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXG4qCS5emrzPTDX5TJ6cSUWjFsLpsxWrvlKQcwrTBIVLdQHocyKk-6d3CgG6QAlVgpxdZRN6Q1UujbMuh5dWcmBfBq5chCUq7VUaxopWObs2C8XEa3DkVsGPJGtweLYi71d8wfeZu/s1600/16a+Fog%252C+Nakat+Harbor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXG4qCS5emrzPTDX5TJ6cSUWjFsLpsxWrvlKQcwrTBIVLdQHocyKk-6d3CgG6QAlVgpxdZRN6Q1UujbMuh5dWcmBfBq5chCUq7VUaxopWObs2C8XEa3DkVsGPJGtweLYi71d8wfeZu/s320/16a+Fog%252C+Nakat+Harbor.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forecast: Pretty darned foggy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Later on we would be sitting on a porch in Canada laughing
and drinking homemade wine with a couple of gillnetters who’d explain this type
of fishing to us. Bill raised his glass and said, “I wouldn’t’a let you through
at all!” Des, a sailor as well as a fisherman, once had an engineless sailboat
and described how he’d sail right over the tops of the nets. “They’d go nuts,
of course, but there was nothing to tangle on them, and there was no other way
through.” We decided that if there’s a fishing opener in Johnstone Strait when
we’re trying to traverse it, we’ll just go anchor somewhere and wait for them
to finish, because if you’ve ever been in Johnstone Strait during a fishing
opener with a hundred gillnetters, you’ll know what we mean.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_gokNg_ZB76nV7Cp5gvALuKCoI1Z3ce6OHGWtl-Rsca_z7WjYLeIs3WE6n_fzQ2JA-hHoiLxhUSzkvoAOB72vJpQkt_LXYlrkD6t37LIU9kcjkO7hM6_keKSHMssDHZnAqrrAib6k/s1600/18+Fog+rolls+in+at+Nakat+Harbor.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="493" data-original-width="1189" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_gokNg_ZB76nV7Cp5gvALuKCoI1Z3ce6OHGWtl-Rsca_z7WjYLeIs3WE6n_fzQ2JA-hHoiLxhUSzkvoAOB72vJpQkt_LXYlrkD6t37LIU9kcjkO7hM6_keKSHMssDHZnAqrrAib6k/s320/18+Fog+rolls+in+at+Nakat+Harbor.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fog sweeps in, Nakat Harbor.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After anchoring at Nakat Harbor, Jim said, “Well, we have
rounded the three Great Capes.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Which are?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Decision, Chacon and Fox.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I thought they were Cape Horn, the Cape of Good Hope and Cape
Leeuwin. Like, capes of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">continents</i>.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Well yeah, there’s those…”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvBhbABaMNy_r3Xyb2oW-ucBvQj9Hu8_vT3E1hc_xFIsuSwYV0vy4dkilnB09ZyWEbBdVRDICSm2N_4ezoJDoCD6jztPpXBMgmua79-mpWLDz5WPQVtj5SNOtwuJlwWkhVWgxqkzmO/s1600/19+Fog+on+the+strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvBhbABaMNy_r3Xyb2oW-ucBvQj9Hu8_vT3E1hc_xFIsuSwYV0vy4dkilnB09ZyWEbBdVRDICSm2N_4ezoJDoCD6jztPpXBMgmua79-mpWLDz5WPQVtj5SNOtwuJlwWkhVWgxqkzmO/s320/19+Fog+on+the+strait.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting tired of fog shots yet? </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>The fog was even
thicker in the morning</b>, you could barely see 30 feet, but with radar,
electronic navigation aids, two sets of eyes and a slow speed (along with a
clearing in late morning) we arrived at Prince Rupert in the afternoon and made
a beeline to the Breakers Pub.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-4gRRylQzAHpBlae5yxZ16_V73oe9FzOsQv4XmvhWhLV0q_soWfHZUaM5kDYOVn0bpA2dhuae73mCiL3FQUe30pwMnYsQDLR_b_tLfC9efnzFiIz6IuzzgXhHoSxzjwp_YTnZeM46/s1600/20+Prince+Rupert+welcome.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-4gRRylQzAHpBlae5yxZ16_V73oe9FzOsQv4XmvhWhLV0q_soWfHZUaM5kDYOVn0bpA2dhuae73mCiL3FQUe30pwMnYsQDLR_b_tLfC9efnzFiIz6IuzzgXhHoSxzjwp_YTnZeM46/s320/20+Prince+Rupert+welcome.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Willya look at that fireboat-style welcome! Prince Rupert rocks!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On our last night in Prince Rupert a couple days later we
extended the World’s Longest Pub Crawl to include a place up the hill called
Cargo, an excellent spot. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqvhkb2H1RolBkS1up6V05IMLXAZK-OcfeZ0EK3KYFOzDLbnNg4xbZ3qcnE5aKzpP-CS8rtW_gjS_3QL6KC-Du7bYtQJzT0vXdDScEEC2eIl54oC_VOjr05mX8gaU-L7HQLvFnp_iH/s1600/21+Prince+Rupert+Immigration+sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqvhkb2H1RolBkS1up6V05IMLXAZK-OcfeZ0EK3KYFOzDLbnNg4xbZ3qcnE5aKzpP-CS8rtW_gjS_3QL6KC-Du7bYtQJzT0vXdDScEEC2eIl54oC_VOjr05mX8gaU-L7HQLvFnp_iH/s320/21+Prince+Rupert+Immigration+sign.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's another reason Prince Rupert <i>really</i> rocks. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Prince Rupert was a good stop as always, but we missed
seeing our friends Marty and Mae, because they’d sailed south to buy a new boat
down on Vancouver Island. They bought a gorgeous big schooner, and Wild
Abandon, their C&C sloop, is for sale. We will catch up with them further
south. However, it seems that <i>everyone</i>
in Prince Rupert is a friend of theirs, so they managed to take care of us
despite not being there, because all we had to say to practically anyone was,
“Hi! We’re friends of Marty and Mae,” and next thing we’d know we’d be on
somebody’s porch drinking homemade wine. We visited with a whole bunch of
friends of theirs at Dodge Cove near Prince Rupert.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZiKPXyIc28uJUhVBlD0Ytts4YY9kMha_0MJ5NyZ8I2G9OHCJ4SLlOjA8gXyAG1F5-DFCyCUCb_qc_L_rmG9JN3h9K7Dq9hk2o1SjPC7CTa2PvtgTLdz15a2J69ASjwiuGXU5lQYwf/s1600/22+Dodge+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZiKPXyIc28uJUhVBlD0Ytts4YY9kMha_0MJ5NyZ8I2G9OHCJ4SLlOjA8gXyAG1F5-DFCyCUCb_qc_L_rmG9JN3h9K7Dq9hk2o1SjPC7CTa2PvtgTLdz15a2J69ASjwiuGXU5lQYwf/s320/22+Dodge+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dodge Cove, a nifty place.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
These included Marna, who lovingly maintains a forested
trail, Des and Bill, the humorous gillnetters, Jeremiah, a logger who operates
the sawmill and showed us his amazing floating and fixed homes and gardens,
Gordon and Linda, who gave us more fishing advice, and a lady who offered us
water to wash down the berries we ate on our hike. What a fabulous little
community.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGIOGH3BqzgUSEna2H3VvhYkEqLOdlIJwAuKRwMJ4WlXoOBDoDrKNmf2fcH4aPH1HyXMZDpsWpkjqIuvSAWqvf-_HGSE7p9w7C6MjE8AiUkJ1SmV-wEPILtY2bvQi9hhQ_6vuDyNw/s1600/23+Dodge+Cove+hiking+trail+surprise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGIOGH3BqzgUSEna2H3VvhYkEqLOdlIJwAuKRwMJ4WlXoOBDoDrKNmf2fcH4aPH1HyXMZDpsWpkjqIuvSAWqvf-_HGSE7p9w7C6MjE8AiUkJ1SmV-wEPILtY2bvQi9hhQ_6vuDyNw/s320/23+Dodge+Cove+hiking+trail+surprise.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One never knows what one may find on the trails at Dodge Cove.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Stopping in Newcombe
Harbor and then Monckton Inlet</b>, we found a sheltered aquamarine cove and
had it to ourselves until <i>another</i>
friend of Marty and Mae hove into sight! We’d arranged to meet up with Alfy and Devlin on his C&C sloop named Moonshine, and both there and at Campania
Island further south we all enjoyed each others’ company, including at a beach
bonfire.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5SplUMZj6RMMmTUOwDTM5p9Z3noJtVLo9CN4jrJUBeFdKhQs8AOD1M7ZzXQZ2BSrl5YKQmitxYlCIGU1v_s5CzuhmqCPWAS5p1Jga28NJMZBzPFO7r76FF_fq8m-VSh6O15PUTUT7/s1600/24+Bonfire%252C+Campania+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5SplUMZj6RMMmTUOwDTM5p9Z3noJtVLo9CN4jrJUBeFdKhQs8AOD1M7ZzXQZ2BSrl5YKQmitxYlCIGU1v_s5CzuhmqCPWAS5p1Jga28NJMZBzPFO7r76FF_fq8m-VSh6O15PUTUT7/s320/24+Bonfire%252C+Campania+Island.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>And they confirmed that those Clydesdale-sized horseflies
can bite right through blue jeans and fleece—crikey! Plus, there were wolf
tracks all over the place, including right on our bonfire beach.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp1niEFqESOKbu2jFrP25N8k4gvue-Dp2ox8awDaUbDia_yOPdw0hoBJJdtwyuwhiM6Qz91-Vo6i8F1LFEIO9onHavb3hpCteTfsXEgIZs3b8yeAiTbmxfHK2o1iGimikEEdDeE5I0/s1600/25+Wolf+tracks+at+bonfire+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp1niEFqESOKbu2jFrP25N8k4gvue-Dp2ox8awDaUbDia_yOPdw0hoBJJdtwyuwhiM6Qz91-Vo6i8F1LFEIO9onHavb3hpCteTfsXEgIZs3b8yeAiTbmxfHK2o1iGimikEEdDeE5I0/s320/25+Wolf+tracks+at+bonfire+beach.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wolf tracks right next to our beach bonfire.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When he’s not working at his regular job, Alfy runs the
YouTube Channel <a href="http://lifeislikesailing.com/">LifeIsLikeSailing.com</a>, and if you like the idea of cruising the
northern Canadian coast you’ll enjoy its practical tips as well as video travelogues.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoqcpaTQIysTe4PaHQTuQJYgPEQvvxCAdMzSzOUIxdgV6goemcRJrocZ9cTjVHdeuZyvLI0yq7QJ8FGJX34iyLZIw7keER6Mq23fKVfTHSCzu1Uv9mIUgxw3Bl6mfoFDlGC_DKKCsj/s1600/26+Pacific+Grace+at+Campania+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoqcpaTQIysTe4PaHQTuQJYgPEQvvxCAdMzSzOUIxdgV6goemcRJrocZ9cTjVHdeuZyvLI0yq7QJ8FGJX34iyLZIw7keER6Mq23fKVfTHSCzu1Uv9mIUgxw3Bl6mfoFDlGC_DKKCsj/s320/26+Pacific+Grace+at+Campania+Island.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a pleasant surprise to see the Pacific grace from Victoria at anchor!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We kept noticing an
increasing burning rubber smell</b>, and it worried us, so after we came to
anchor at Monckton we opened the engine compartment and checked everything.
Nothing was hot. We went over every wire in the boat, all cool and fine. We sat
there wondering, why is it that we smell burning rubber and can’t find the
source? Then a strong whiff hit me and I followed my nose… to my boots. “Oh
god, you won’t believe this. I bought these boots in 2001, they’re all oxidized
and they stink like burning rubber when the sun hits them. They didn’t do this
last year. You’d think they’d last a <i>little</i>
longer than that.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As we cruised south, Jim said, “How many nights is it since
Rupert, six?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I don’t even know what day it is.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Six nights outta Rupert,” he said, “what a great song title.
Hey! We should write a song!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“What’ll it be about?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I dunno.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So I (K) began singing: <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I don’t know what this song’s about,<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But we’re six nights outta Rupert,<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The rain and wind makes us scream and shout,<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And we’re six nights outta Rupert.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The searchers all say they’d have made Alston Bay<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If they weren’t just five nights outta Rupert…”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Not her best musical composition, but good for a giggle. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ7xBfD1vdRyBKRGZRYfgzfaDXPh7tMT5qAjWrAXP6MsyCoHcNeUXJp93lXcGh_LHjMYlG7znGo1tv9LRzqZxvkkX_nZ6l7PJG1EHg3eXJ8aGgTjSzobOPhyphenhyphenPLDtJmJmFkFE66m_yf/s1600/26a+Monckton+Inlet-fog+awaits.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ7xBfD1vdRyBKRGZRYfgzfaDXPh7tMT5qAjWrAXP6MsyCoHcNeUXJp93lXcGh_LHjMYlG7znGo1tv9LRzqZxvkkX_nZ6l7PJG1EHg3eXJ8aGgTjSzobOPhyphenhyphenPLDtJmJmFkFE66m_yf/s320/26a+Monckton+Inlet-fog+awaits.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fog awaits us in the main channel. "Hope you like mashed potatoes!"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
More salmon fishing, this time in Laredo Inlet, surrounded
by Princess Royal Island where the white spirit bears live, which are a genetic
variant of black bears.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Keep your eyes peeled,” Jim said. “And meanwhile, I put on
a new hootchie, the one with flashing lights on it!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I believe we may have reached fishing
hootchie-kootchiedom.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“And,” he said, “I’ve smeared some lunker lotion on it!”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lunker lotion. Gotta love it. “Maybe we should smear some on
you, too, Sweetie?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Then you couldn’t resist me.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“As if I already can. But you wanted me to flop onto a
halibut, so maybe some extra lunker lotion might change our luck.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Two hours of trolling later: No luck. “Okay, I said, “this
is serious. I’m going for the nuclear option.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Which is…?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I’m getting the hamburger out to defrost.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were anchored in Alston Inlet off Laredo Inlet. Jim went out in
the dinghy to troll for salmon, which were jumping out of the water as if to
say, Neener neener. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Meanwhile, the hamburger’s defrosting. Tick tock…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As Jim was out fishing, the crew of the sailboat White Raven
II dinghied over to visit Raven (great name confluence, eh?) when suddenly the
radio crackled into life. “I got a 27 inch salmon!” said Jim, and we all cheered.
And when he returned, the poor dinghy looked like the Battle of Thermopylae had
been fought in it; there was hand-to-fin combat blood and slime everywhere,
including all over Jim’s best Carhartts. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And seldom have I seen a man so blissed out.
“That was amazing,” he said. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUDBideaRrD1KzyWJpVKj0uxXtj7O0zoGUGcc9RHEVVUDU1tW7JnG6EZENDqUY4u030sWv36kQMLYGJ4__XLOplG7kn7rz12xf5X_Ng3yigTHzAHYGvgECBiir_zWaMr3So4FtNkSU/s1600/27+JIm%2527s+big+salmon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUDBideaRrD1KzyWJpVKj0uxXtj7O0zoGUGcc9RHEVVUDU1tW7JnG6EZENDqUY4u030sWv36kQMLYGJ4__XLOplG7kn7rz12xf5X_Ng3yigTHzAHYGvgECBiir_zWaMr3So4FtNkSU/s320/27+JIm%2527s+big+salmon.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim's lunker lotion special, a nice Coho.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Yep. Lunker lotion. The gift that keeps on giving. We got our Coho mojo on and we’ll
never get the blood out of his Carhartts, but he actually likes it that way. I
put the hamburger back in the freezer. We hit the salmon motherlode, and had dinner aboard Doug and Bonnie’s
White Raven II (salmon, of course) and played music into the evening with them.
In fact, the scene was repeated next day at Alston Inlet six miles away, with
more music, and on the way out next day, another salmon! We are stylin'!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXPuu2fgW2MsiQdXB3teXIs3U9ib7eTjoxnUz18joB60RQaHVaZvqVH4fR5yLKEAXXr2CtsA-TtN9UNEYbCtS2QIOeme6FBOnecl0_akcEQ8tq2Z_e3LT2Un6358LSP9kwEoyymLsG/s1600/28+Music+aboard+White+Raven+II.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXPuu2fgW2MsiQdXB3teXIs3U9ib7eTjoxnUz18joB60RQaHVaZvqVH4fR5yLKEAXXr2CtsA-TtN9UNEYbCtS2QIOeme6FBOnecl0_akcEQ8tq2Z_e3LT2Un6358LSP9kwEoyymLsG/s320/28+Music+aboard+White+Raven+II.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Playing music aboard White Raven II with Bonnie and Doug.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPJbNRf8dIY5vyp1JpKk0vWXeGeutpIWS1_N1lv0BFqIyg8cxoT6OmdAjFfCY48XY814-RBBpAb8c_RJFt8i1dt-dk7ya9jw7SIle3o-5DDzOvl4sVG7PtiYknUx_KPWM-w_HNSIfm/s1600/29+Coho+fillet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPJbNRf8dIY5vyp1JpKk0vWXeGeutpIWS1_N1lv0BFqIyg8cxoT6OmdAjFfCY48XY814-RBBpAb8c_RJFt8i1dt-dk7ya9jw7SIle3o-5DDzOvl4sVG7PtiYknUx_KPWM-w_HNSIfm/s320/29+Coho+fillet.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coho fillet. Jim puts food on his family.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNych5fGRC1HTrEN0YAHYQtSzYx0qAtA_hRrCqTVNY7g-0HOhFryJImGZx-P9A2pkXBuBF93IVaad76vEERKzg8gTqjeoYkneahKtnOaeY1s2viZ_yVIaRbr9ZDZjN1iFckgzK0QvM/s1600/30+Coho+salmon+skin+close+up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNych5fGRC1HTrEN0YAHYQtSzYx0qAtA_hRrCqTVNY7g-0HOhFryJImGZx-P9A2pkXBuBF93IVaad76vEERKzg8gTqjeoYkneahKtnOaeY1s2viZ_yVIaRbr9ZDZjN1iFckgzK0QvM/s320/30+Coho+salmon+skin+close+up.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A salmon is a beautiful fish.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Narrow rock-strewn passages, large channels between islands and
swirling fog characterized the next part of the voyage, which we enjoyed, and
we arrived in Shearwater, across the harbor from Bella Bella, yesterday (August
7.)<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEHBpfdHc3iTdH-4R4uKJBL_X7a5IuVuvbmn9JCVmFubjBR_3A0w8vsZpS9eN87f_urYai0owS4RuVw9BQ2yi6vVtcCYpXdxtvgjwxVg1C3X3KPpSSp-br6xSPwo0Gw2jKh2ocQQ-N/s1600/31+Underway+in+early+morning%252C+Mathieson+Channel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEHBpfdHc3iTdH-4R4uKJBL_X7a5IuVuvbmn9JCVmFubjBR_3A0w8vsZpS9eN87f_urYai0owS4RuVw9BQ2yi6vVtcCYpXdxtvgjwxVg1C3X3KPpSSp-br6xSPwo0Gw2jKh2ocQQ-N/s320/31+Underway+in+early+morning%252C+Mathieson+Channel.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underway in Mathieson Channel, early morning.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmvv2w98mfb2TCP-i9M-QUe6MPRzMQuEUqm0W0GVqGYBg-MO5mIn18cqq1y_ACSrCLtaHqmYEQjzSyPFytcHrRi8v8UkGb78f6VFGH_uIT01IckoAN_o1TTnI7wLayOcpBpNtPY12q/s1600/32+Underway%252C+here+comes+the+fog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmvv2w98mfb2TCP-i9M-QUe6MPRzMQuEUqm0W0GVqGYBg-MO5mIn18cqq1y_ACSrCLtaHqmYEQjzSyPFytcHrRi8v8UkGb78f6VFGH_uIT01IckoAN_o1TTnI7wLayOcpBpNtPY12q/s320/32+Underway%252C+here+comes+the+fog.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Annnnd, here comes the fog!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Because the water supply to boats is shut off (probably because it’s been hot and dry here and they need to conserve) we had
to dinghy back and forth with jerrycans; the marina will allow 20 gallons at a
time, but that almost filled our tanks. We had to dinghy ashore because the
very nice modern marina is full of giant fiberglass castles that say they’ll
only use the water for drinking, and then they wash their boats with it, which doesn't set well with the harbormaster. Many
of the small boats have to tie to a rickety log breakwater with barges on the
other side of the dock.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbnkyPiGLJ7VfYRDWiMdu3NBwdYxRm1XjYzYqLvd1FnU0_49Gx9AjyUGwqOHo32G6QmgraCNQC05V4pApUuQYjwBf2Vhtg0DOlwj3fYRTZegNWJmHY3ElHcP14MKw88JQBbMYhBCug/s1600/33+Breakwater+dock+at+Shearwater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbnkyPiGLJ7VfYRDWiMdu3NBwdYxRm1XjYzYqLvd1FnU0_49Gx9AjyUGwqOHo32G6QmgraCNQC05V4pApUuQYjwBf2Vhtg0DOlwj3fYRTZegNWJmHY3ElHcP14MKw88JQBbMYhBCug/s320/33+Breakwater+dock+at+Shearwater.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Believe it or not, we prefer this location to being crammed in the marina--nice breeze and lots to see, also privacy. But do watch your step.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> Besides preferring it out here</o:p> because it’s quieter, we also have a raven visiting Raven!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtD7SFRnalmnFQinJPPbNJqGgl4rQKV15YXIni8sQZmLKHAeCJ8kOj6FDo1D4_CbNS1gB4XWu5oKAP7BFiheEE0IDpbbW83Oy5QIaM9WIapw-g-gNhdvovGpnPhvKOLKi-tO4kj-S-/s1600/34+Raven+visits+Raven%252C+Shearwater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtD7SFRnalmnFQinJPPbNJqGgl4rQKV15YXIni8sQZmLKHAeCJ8kOj6FDo1D4_CbNS1gB4XWu5oKAP7BFiheEE0IDpbbW83Oy5QIaM9WIapw-g-gNhdvovGpnPhvKOLKi-tO4kj-S-/s320/34+Raven+visits+Raven%252C+Shearwater.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our neighbor, talking atop the barge next door. We thought it said, "Nevermore!"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>From here we’ll continue the wilderness wanderings. Which brings us to:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><br /></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Unspoken Law of the
Sea #12:</i> When you come out of the wilderness and the big news story is about some zoo being accused of painting a donkey and passing it off as a zebra, it’s time
to head back in. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKdZ9K0KTqB8ebU7n3djS_1X8KOkX5X4QNa54XWubsCFYmq2V-YmECEIwNfzu8Ku5vilzl9Pq9wwM9aYkFa8bSnnZZ9tXO23SYpvEihwmB0j5Cct6dax5ib5lwhlqvXXrtn5qchF4N/s1600/Sunset%252C+Campania+Island+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKdZ9K0KTqB8ebU7n3djS_1X8KOkX5X4QNa54XWubsCFYmq2V-YmECEIwNfzu8Ku5vilzl9Pq9wwM9aYkFa8bSnnZZ9tXO23SYpvEihwmB0j5Cct6dax5ib5lwhlqvXXrtn5qchF4N/s320/Sunset%252C+Campania+Island+beach.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-461632637308450672018-07-14T18:37:00.001-07:002018-07-14T18:37:13.309-07:00Wonder-Mongering in the Wild<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>4071</o:Words>
<o:Characters>23210</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Karen L. Sullivan Publishing</o:Company>
<o:Lines>193</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>54</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>27227</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-font-charset:78;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1791491579 18 0 131231 0;}
@font-face
{font-family:Cambria;
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;
mso-font-charset:0;
mso-generic-font-family:auto;
mso-font-pitch:variable;
mso-font-signature:-536870145 1073743103 0 0 415 0;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-unhide:no;
mso-style-qformat:yes;
mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
mso-default-props:yes;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-fareast-font-family:"MS 明朝";
mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}
@page WordSection1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
mso-header-margin:.5in;
mso-footer-margin:.5in;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
-->
</style>
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuFgw7CZd8Eg7itgstFzkhPYKArAFkM5jE0qT7UkARyGoYuTVDyK5wKuWN2iGjXn1fT4PtwmAdbEIiz7Kn-wSoOfFm6MMRjFFJ4oDiDod1FIHNJ6cWujX3RwP0y3Z5E2o_qZBz6x9/s1600/1+Raven+w+iceberg%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuFgw7CZd8Eg7itgstFzkhPYKArAFkM5jE0qT7UkARyGoYuTVDyK5wKuWN2iGjXn1fT4PtwmAdbEIiz7Kn-wSoOfFm6MMRjFFJ4oDiDod1FIHNJ6cWujX3RwP0y3Z5E2o_qZBz6x9/s320/1+Raven+w+iceberg%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven next to an iceberg. No, we didn't reach the Antarctic, it's a half-acre-sized <i>Alaskan</i> iceberg in Endicott Arm.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="font-size: 12pt;">We are in Craig,</b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">
a settlement of 1200 people on western Prince of Wales Island, in the southwest
corner of Southeast Alaska about 60 miles north of Dixon Entrance. We’ve been
threading our way among and between large and small islands and there was a
short, mercifully calm passage in the Gulf of Alaska.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinG5YVHaD-MulRoGySmVxtLlMfCRqAPJnZCJS0UdE_xi8zuucXvTqE-IUFk0sW07aS_s1LHzEU-RekBmOpQh70UMskQyh5_fyr292oBkfYEN62bNOycAE_y13_REduo9PBoIRf3xL1/s1600/2+Craig+on+Prince+of+Wales+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinG5YVHaD-MulRoGySmVxtLlMfCRqAPJnZCJS0UdE_xi8zuucXvTqE-IUFk0sW07aS_s1LHzEU-RekBmOpQh70UMskQyh5_fyr292oBkfYEN62bNOycAE_y13_REduo9PBoIRf3xL1/s320/2+Craig+on+Prince+of+Wales+Island.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craig, the largest settlement on Prince of Wales Island.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">It’s been awhile since our last post because we have been in
the boonies since leaving Juneau. Jim, who has been going barefoot for most of
this trip, kept checking his cellphone for a signal, but nada. Do you think, he
said, if I put shoes on we might get service?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrsNBJ6RI6IG1E3VLlQSiPYbBtyMQ2O84-KRfiNEd80y-XGJ-bqDgScQYefKzvqvZ7GVRkWjHNgE7KAcupDSj89mu9yQMApeCzp_ueyCa3Mm4F1SftrJCV2VOHUSnkDpqbMlDolwN1/s1600/3+Juneau+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrsNBJ6RI6IG1E3VLlQSiPYbBtyMQ2O84-KRfiNEd80y-XGJ-bqDgScQYefKzvqvZ7GVRkWjHNgE7KAcupDSj89mu9yQMApeCzp_ueyCa3Mm4F1SftrJCV2VOHUSnkDpqbMlDolwN1/s320/3+Juneau+.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are so many picturesque neighborhoods and nifty historic structures in Juneau. You just have to walk uphill (or be driven on a tour, thanks Deb!) The tourist district is cool, but so are the areas away from it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfHZRP5U6OOYFaKu5Z_Sk5VkNCbX-kVUBn0LWX5lvrpITKB7K2zLij4UT4bqOl2AqOwOTVAVDtSNqHZKw3XxSkUVsng5lZJxr-CFO85byNAv1FAh4RhF1Kgf7Xx_U7yL_OpW-xrglQ/s1600/4+Flume2%252C+Juneau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfHZRP5U6OOYFaKu5Z_Sk5VkNCbX-kVUBn0LWX5lvrpITKB7K2zLij4UT4bqOl2AqOwOTVAVDtSNqHZKw3XxSkUVsng5lZJxr-CFO85byNAv1FAh4RhF1Kgf7Xx_U7yL_OpW-xrglQ/s320/4+Flume2%252C+Juneau.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Juneau is also a paradise for hikers. This trail is built
right on top of a large flume, and you can hear the water rushing under your
feet. It also drips out the sides.</span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9d2SdnnjTuCUCM_iFM_FCSaUmgcedUqOGSCpb6PEmHCibhEs6mSj93ikX7Cvl5Sv5f5Z1d_hF5nSMHTrpWZWaoRkuBy7r1Y-AJTuNA7EInTyeqJ1jW7d5P9wy4_nsXLAZ6DYgi0wS/s1600/5+Flume%252C+Juneau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9d2SdnnjTuCUCM_iFM_FCSaUmgcedUqOGSCpb6PEmHCibhEs6mSj93ikX7Cvl5Sv5f5Z1d_hF5nSMHTrpWZWaoRkuBy7r1Y-AJTuNA7EInTyeqJ1jW7d5P9wy4_nsXLAZ6DYgi0wS/s320/5+Flume%252C+Juneau.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">This is an outlet of the flume, way up a mountain. Other
hikes in the area would appeal to both novices and experienced hikers. It is
also a fact in Gastineau Channel that when two cruise ships pass by, their
wakes will bounce you around for the next twenty minutes. Time to get away from
cruise ship traffic.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">We have traveled
nearly 350 miles since Juneau</b>, most of it in the kind of wilderness where
human beings are reminded and humbled that we’re just another part of a
magnificent and often achingly gorgeous planetary ecosystem. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChIneB-Xs07gUhf-swA1pYb6Diep91llm-xeeumwNxFNt_9n73vSnwoZqdCnbhdpiwzkFj5uR_2Ji02Nk1wwn_9LHYChTffjIST-VNwg8CgJvjEjVHpEMz-dplSbvShzZVYA6GPpz/s1600/6+Land+That+Time+Forgot2%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChIneB-Xs07gUhf-swA1pYb6Diep91llm-xeeumwNxFNt_9n73vSnwoZqdCnbhdpiwzkFj5uR_2Ji02Nk1wwn_9LHYChTffjIST-VNwg8CgJvjEjVHpEMz-dplSbvShzZVYA6GPpz/s320/6+Land+That+Time+Forgot2%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">We have been to the
ice. We have seen glaciers, and blue icebergs bobbing like a spill of
rough-edged Canada Mints. We have seen icebergs shaped like giant moths,
icebergs as big as houses, no, bigger than houses, and we have seen killer
whales and humpback whales. We have seen black bears, brown bears, get-outta-town
bears, a wooly mammoth… okay, not a wooly mammoth.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicyBMnBkd1vDdv0Y1nMEkyqiDD-Bx1IfKoTXkSGxufREBZVonvwpzjX4m3OBSM8LAi7A6nmyX0gTfiSAkoHZDB7ia_75GNlB9wglUPUwTJtq3HAlP83k3seXbQq03TD38svuRGme4i/s1600/7+Iceberg2%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicyBMnBkd1vDdv0Y1nMEkyqiDD-Bx1IfKoTXkSGxufREBZVonvwpzjX4m3OBSM8LAi7A6nmyX0gTfiSAkoHZDB7ia_75GNlB9wglUPUwTJtq3HAlP83k3seXbQq03TD38svuRGme4i/s320/7+Iceberg2%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Don’t you think this iceberg looks like either a giant moth
or, perhaps, the Starship Enterprise after it grew Barbaloot antennae?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But we digress… there we were on the Juneau waterfront,
innocently taking a selfie when THIS happened! Can you believe it? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXWOFgPejN6fWxf3_Zi4MDhu-AvbiQ_3QPyAoL-qAE6rhBWmmOdo95k1OxiczkjH_wWbfcufiXHCNcWi6CA1LtfZjJ_3YHSYKZ-RuOifO8hMU2DfKVAIi7U_m4Pdu1ZYVcVd7Do_lr/s1600/8+Selfie+massively+photobombed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1203" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXWOFgPejN6fWxf3_Zi4MDhu-AvbiQ_3QPyAoL-qAE6rhBWmmOdo95k1OxiczkjH_wWbfcufiXHCNcWi6CA1LtfZjJ_3YHSYKZ-RuOifO8hMU2DfKVAIi7U_m4Pdu1ZYVcVd7Do_lr/s320/8+Selfie+massively+photobombed.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">I mean, REALLY, the <i>nerve</i> of that whale, photobombing us
like that.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Several friends have admonished us: We wanna see more
wildlife pictures! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Butbutbut, we said, we’re just using iPhones and a point ‘n
shoot camera, it’s…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We don’t care, they said, get out there and get those
photos! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Okay then. I texted the photo below to a friend, and wrote:
You wanted to see a whale close-up?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii8OuCu_1Qsi3rtoPQFfww6lluwgDKCHCeefmJ8HkiQUddt42Dv-3Akg35nH7MQOb-ywQVoZEiiglUpeyY_g6YxEMvQw9uF-FVTFa0CMz0Pg52i2Ckz0i-GtejbQRhyphenhyphens0ogNONfilT/s1600/10+Breaching+whale+sculpture.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii8OuCu_1Qsi3rtoPQFfww6lluwgDKCHCeefmJ8HkiQUddt42Dv-3Akg35nH7MQOb-ywQVoZEiiglUpeyY_g6YxEMvQw9uF-FVTFa0CMz0Pg52i2Ckz0i-GtejbQRhyphenhyphens0ogNONfilT/s320/10+Breaching+whale+sculpture.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><span style="font-size: 12pt;">She texted back: WOW! AWESOME! Was that a humpback whale?
Love it! Thank you!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Wordlessly, I texted her this:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-UQ4OKeMfR0toi5BuZlW0M3PmkxlEH8qCgS8DBuvFYimhLp6rHwYLT3aHampPaR41y9B488FuCLK3av6sK86_8WyEpESq__8ERSfoeA9SIytUOoaWMzwwy6WNJvE7hK_G5hmQtpk/s1600/11+Braching+whale+sculpture2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-UQ4OKeMfR0toi5BuZlW0M3PmkxlEH8qCgS8DBuvFYimhLp6rHwYLT3aHampPaR41y9B488FuCLK3av6sK86_8WyEpESq__8ERSfoeA9SIytUOoaWMzwwy6WNJvE7hK_G5hmQtpk/s320/11+Braching+whale+sculpture2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Her: Stinker!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: Couldn’t wait ‘til April 1. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Also, if I’d been that close to a breaching whale with an
iPhone trying to get a shot like that, it woulda been the last photo I ever took,
because, as you can see from relative species sizes in this photo, there
wouldn’t have been much left of me to write home about when that whale came
back down. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEins5pOFdM65ovs44DNW8CTll14N39UwKOEot_DO8rkgXE5OF2sZ13CDd32XFoRcEepEIPv48S5aRVh7qSsYQlzLo8ATtwdexK23p85g8m35PhnGnBUI2FBx0u4vTTfshH56l0bQY0P/s1600/12+Breaching+whale+sculpture%252C+Juneau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEins5pOFdM65ovs44DNW8CTll14N39UwKOEot_DO8rkgXE5OF2sZ13CDd32XFoRcEepEIPv48S5aRVh7qSsYQlzLo8ATtwdexK23p85g8m35PhnGnBUI2FBx0u4vTTfshH56l0bQY0P/s320/12+Breaching+whale+sculpture%252C+Juneau.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><b>We left Juneau on June 29,</b> but because a southerly wind
raised a chop, we pulled in 20 miles south to anchor at Taku Harbor, then
continued the next day to Tracy Arm, which has not one but </span><i style="font-size: 12pt;">two</i><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> big glaciers at its head, about 25 miles from its ice-choked
entrance. And there’s another huge arm, Endicott, to explore after Tracy.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJr0xh1rDJOjJrugw3CFW41H_ojpGwwlSFTDUeUBLg0M-iGKR9Mj3GM0RXaa4hNRo_XwNDiqOy9888C9BzX0NRZlFOwVCvswirUFfI3VYnhYocFcKulWEw4yjngtKE9aO2PaO4GZ-V/s1600/14+Iceberg3%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJr0xh1rDJOjJrugw3CFW41H_ojpGwwlSFTDUeUBLg0M-iGKR9Mj3GM0RXaa4hNRo_XwNDiqOy9888C9BzX0NRZlFOwVCvswirUFfI3VYnhYocFcKulWEw4yjngtKE9aO2PaO4GZ-V/s320/14+Iceberg3%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Picture a large Victorian 3-storey house and you’ll get an
idea of the size of this chillpuppy in Endicott Arm. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">June 30 was a majorly
big day</b>, because we got up at oh-dark-thirty so we could get to Tracy Arm,
then went the full length of it up and back, and finally anchored late that
evening in a pocket cove near the fiord’s mouth, hoping no bergs would drift in.
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmm4u3IBkjGvwk7BceWzLCkSGtOfSmBF1uNjxpappI8HazafXIB4h1SFSe5AJSoU_y0oei3-0Oix7fcegPsNk72CmD3jGbohT3qFL15XnvmaggOyv4bZU150nnac2qPVizyd9SiggN/s1600/13+Nun%252C+Tracy+Arm+Ent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmm4u3IBkjGvwk7BceWzLCkSGtOfSmBF1uNjxpappI8HazafXIB4h1SFSe5AJSoU_y0oei3-0Oix7fcegPsNk72CmD3jGbohT3qFL15XnvmaggOyv4bZU150nnac2qPVizyd9SiggN/s320/13+Nun%252C+Tracy+Arm+Ent.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You’d think icebergs might have enough sense to not clog the
narrow entrance, but noooo. When we crossed this bar the next day to go up
Endicott Arm, icebergs had left the red nun alone but swept away the green can.
Given the fresh paint on both aids to navigation, we don’t think this is a rare
occurrence. Luckily, there’s a range on an island that you can line up to stay
in the channel. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: So if you get off the range, are you deranged?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: You would go aground and have to get a tow a-ranged.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: Costs could range quite high.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: And blaming an iceberg would be st-range.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The following day we tried to get up Endicott Arm to a nice
little side-fiord called Ford’s Terror (because of terror-inducing tidal rapids
at the entrance, which you avoid by going in at slack tide), but pack ice so thickly
littered Endicott Arm that we decided that it wasn’t worth the worry of
threading through it hoping a chunk of ice wouldn’t hit (and damage) our prop.
Instead, we stopped the boat, turned off the engine, and drifted among the
icebergs, which made little Snap! Crackle! Pop! sounds. Jim kayaked while I
stayed aboard Raven to keep her clear of drifting ice (and to nurse my cold.) <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b>So here are some
photos from those wonderful two days</b> in Tracy and Endicott Arms:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSQ5__vJoef_2D2ySHQ87f02WFMY2nZWSLUZUvsGPUKEHFmjVlci6JtshoxkmUksUT0Cz5aXq2ZTaP4IklQR-fKjNv2CqchZsvaz0mOEznTqvEPUfTjyr6fYm5LNR-UptTPkE21w4X/s1600/9+Iceberg1%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSQ5__vJoef_2D2ySHQ87f02WFMY2nZWSLUZUvsGPUKEHFmjVlci6JtshoxkmUksUT0Cz5aXq2ZTaP4IklQR-fKjNv2CqchZsvaz0mOEznTqvEPUfTjyr6fYm5LNR-UptTPkE21w4X/s320/9+Iceberg1%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Doesn’t this iceberg look like if Dale Chihuly decided to
sculpt a sea slug in glass? The varied blue colors in icebergs and glaciers
surprises people. It turns out that when you compress all the air out of ice over
time, say ten millennia, the way it refracts and reflects light changes, and
you get this blue-green color because all the long-wavelength light (meaning, red) is absorbed rather than reflected. Unfortunately, the ice we made drinks from
wasn’t blue, but we enjoyed its ten thousand year-old, what would you call it, paleo-seasoning?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3v3jgHVkjq4kZmWjDo60nD_KIUxf5aqSoISOHOs9lMOWzmF2iiq7tz29dyPudtoQDjkmfAD9Z1N5FBADIfuD0gQzEyfOLqSY3vrh4p8n6j7eKOvM1fteZju_ckUcSZ3tigz1-6Rc/s1600/15+Iceberg3%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3v3jgHVkjq4kZmWjDo60nD_KIUxf5aqSoISOHOs9lMOWzmF2iiq7tz29dyPudtoQDjkmfAD9Z1N5FBADIfuD0gQzEyfOLqSY3vrh4p8n6j7eKOvM1fteZju_ckUcSZ3tigz1-6Rc/s320/15+Iceberg3%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We liked the wave-forms in this berg, which was about the
length of a bus.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdZvBIdyMeWo1sv7vdEBZufiZ2Xi5X6l6jtjoI0bmo8kJt-YTs2W-JQ-FW2bKV0N4yjuUXx9ND4zw63b_6Ypb9Q9vCt-O1zjBfZcrcIQj37H7L7ATxawVyB54YY0Ta34SVhFCF37Ke/s1600/16+Waterfall%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdZvBIdyMeWo1sv7vdEBZufiZ2Xi5X6l6jtjoI0bmo8kJt-YTs2W-JQ-FW2bKV0N4yjuUXx9ND4zw63b_6Ypb9Q9vCt-O1zjBfZcrcIQj37H7L7ATxawVyB54YY0Ta34SVhFCF37Ke/s320/16+Waterfall%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We had to come over to investigate this cataract rushing off
the mountainside, and it was worth it. It rained on and off that day, which
only added to the beauty because of how the light played with low clouds while
the rain fueled dozens of waterfalls.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiWe2AJJMAAqGW4NkW3WAq09KUUKVlFDRweAtBUSiXNO7OW1G8AwaQyWAPjqB5aDODZK2LAdE7dUU9UBMHZOuVsUC4F3pRd5gxk6IAT0QA28yvCzQUmLit_bzcVj2ARiKZFCVXOcKP/s1600/17+Waterfall2%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiWe2AJJMAAqGW4NkW3WAq09KUUKVlFDRweAtBUSiXNO7OW1G8AwaQyWAPjqB5aDODZK2LAdE7dUU9UBMHZOuVsUC4F3pRd5gxk6IAT0QA28yvCzQUmLit_bzcVj2ARiKZFCVXOcKP/s320/17+Waterfall2%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Close-up of waterfall. It was mesmerizing to watch because
it continually changed shape around the edges. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDyOdk_WKHFAzS8vRe6mKUTxnlE0-9SD2QJtnXeV8vVejgnbI-z6A17ZHHV1oRz3dzSHQKH1lb0-fztavOsDVBletyWlVV5LuJ_AIkYJuKjV55zx-qcPUuVi301kK58OcKeR7jgSq/s1600/18+Land+that+Time+Forgot2%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrDyOdk_WKHFAzS8vRe6mKUTxnlE0-9SD2QJtnXeV8vVejgnbI-z6A17ZHHV1oRz3dzSHQKH1lb0-fztavOsDVBletyWlVV5LuJ_AIkYJuKjV55zx-qcPUuVi301kK58OcKeR7jgSq/s320/18+Land+that+Time+Forgot2%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
More water at play, like a feather boa. Seriously, how does
a cloud do that?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5_g-1kCg-XgNknUb-sb2PfD7Cg97XZoW3L4Fk2pVwKTtB-ZMACoG4gZjcwtAuvakuT5pD5zkkRQVVvSgtZLVdXTfVIYKTbeOZgh2DJ8DLeoTKh4n_-DnTVhJ46z6k0MeZF2jLWyZQ/s1600/19+Glacier%252C+U-shaped+valley%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5_g-1kCg-XgNknUb-sb2PfD7Cg97XZoW3L4Fk2pVwKTtB-ZMACoG4gZjcwtAuvakuT5pD5zkkRQVVvSgtZLVdXTfVIYKTbeOZgh2DJ8DLeoTKh4n_-DnTVhJ46z6k0MeZF2jLWyZQ/s320/19+Glacier%252C+U-shaped+valley%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Look at the glacier way, way up the mountain, and the
U-shaped opening it carved when it once filled the whole valley. A lot of these
photos show the incredible (and alarming) rate of retreat of these glaciers,
too many of which may be gone within our lifetimes. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUMt3PLPG_CmJOJUQTr3plArRzNmDu-09W0LTdJ0ydxaPIoJqC6aVIE-DReWZoiZRhAbxM7BYmhvC3Oe3SMQzFsz7iWHV5EtevxnsFIFSZRO2CNsY4jtfX5npha-jxHNzlcEBrMurp/s1600/20+S-turn%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUMt3PLPG_CmJOJUQTr3plArRzNmDu-09W0LTdJ0ydxaPIoJqC6aVIE-DReWZoiZRhAbxM7BYmhvC3Oe3SMQzFsz7iWHV5EtevxnsFIFSZRO2CNsY4jtfX5npha-jxHNzlcEBrMurp/s320/20+S-turn%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now this was intriguing; a couple of near-90-degree turns in
Tracy Arm—why? What would cause a glacier to have to do that? We don’t know,
but this was the path it followed, and now we’re following in its watery wake.
The color of the water was an opaque turquoise, evoking along with the
surrounding forests and mountains, the sense that had the movie “Avatar” been
about glacial rather than tropical habitat, it might have been filmed here.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2E76QK3zUQcNQborCESdjnDhUvooDslMAM9OkQTWEyGE0rAz0IDoTzwgvcuWhvYhh6waKWsXn_dY2DRqoE0lYQQ6_IWP1ywYCEt2XooMTC8a7SXKz-IAYeGU3kIqjJCy3DNCmOSZ/s1600/21+S+Sawyer+glacier%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2E76QK3zUQcNQborCESdjnDhUvooDslMAM9OkQTWEyGE0rAz0IDoTzwgvcuWhvYhh6waKWsXn_dY2DRqoE0lYQQ6_IWP1ywYCEt2XooMTC8a7SXKz-IAYeGU3kIqjJCy3DNCmOSZ/s320/21+S+Sawyer+glacier%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The rumbling South Sawyer glacier is extremely active and
calves at the head of Tracy Arm—it’s the source for all the big icebergs in
that Arm. It was so choked with ice that we couldn’t get much nearer than this.
Many of the small bergy bits had seals with pups resting on them, so it was
just as well to not disturb them. Mamas would watch us and put a protective flipper
over their pups to reassure them, just like human mothers do, except without
the flipper. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_MkAmhUYGtRL-b72ltc-pWEX3o2aFO2TkcnTxMtTxEwYzHJ5cVblwuKmmQU8NDSWmyVRu8wrEHtsHfrXzOs_Ikj58DT3i0Ihnh8TCU-weBBOZMFdK3Hfwn1rPSeBuL1ZaC8qpH6MN/s1600/22+Waterfall+near+N+Sawyer+glacier%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_MkAmhUYGtRL-b72ltc-pWEX3o2aFO2TkcnTxMtTxEwYzHJ5cVblwuKmmQU8NDSWmyVRu8wrEHtsHfrXzOs_Ikj58DT3i0Ihnh8TCU-weBBOZMFdK3Hfwn1rPSeBuL1ZaC8qpH6MN/s320/22+Waterfall+near+N+Sawyer+glacier%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We had read that you can get quite close to North Sawyer
glacier, and we did. Along the way, waterfalls like this one squirted out of
mountainsides. The volume of fresh water coming out of Tracy Arm is
tremendous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6CvmQHAlLW8TqcrG6XG8yExnzz22fpA6IPnYwZ4FphHjneKQq7GS1qUbGmg6l7jK37ypHIEcOsLE52lfwMDgdMWZJnoS4XRGzL4ne3HhdxNSqkbt5YNUUnIaYgy4Ja5KHdKDa47Uj/s1600/23+N+Sawyer+glacier+showing+chart+position%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6CvmQHAlLW8TqcrG6XG8yExnzz22fpA6IPnYwZ4FphHjneKQq7GS1qUbGmg6l7jK37ypHIEcOsLE52lfwMDgdMWZJnoS4XRGzL4ne3HhdxNSqkbt5YNUUnIaYgy4Ja5KHdKDa47Uj/s320/23+N+Sawyer+glacier+showing+chart+position%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This is probably the most disturbing photo. If you look at
the screen, the red triangle is where Raven was—more than half a mile “inland” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">since this chart was made</i>. And we were
still a half-mile from the glacier! The chart says, “Sawyer Glacier –
Unsurveyed.” Meaning nobody’s been out here to
measure the depths and correct the chart in such a brief time; the retreat has been this dramatic. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkP_kbEVycothuu1e32XLCHtYVaj9k3LVpDGAZFQHp4vRzvCtXIcAJtZG3L3O95XH3GTvSsHRMx6-D4MAuczkM1qQnFGIoXNGMg2j0H7PlUKmQ2CQ07vNY_2gn3LtiEuEorUhu_al/s1600/24+Raven+from+cabin+top%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRkP_kbEVycothuu1e32XLCHtYVaj9k3LVpDGAZFQHp4vRzvCtXIcAJtZG3L3O95XH3GTvSsHRMx6-D4MAuczkM1qQnFGIoXNGMg2j0H7PlUKmQ2CQ07vNY_2gn3LtiEuEorUhu_al/s320/24+Raven+from+cabin+top%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We liked the symmetry of this view of Raven as she bobbed in
front of North Sawyer glacier. Gotta hand it to shipwright Leif Knutsen, he
designed and built one terrific boat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLWf5kO18-pIfNzs3y33Uuf3jUKMlcZZ18UDhlWXm3AEUpzffPgibQwgrFLfsTYT8WFv4S-ymfZEA6VKDM4IEeOj-E_b2wZ22zmEMRdHe0id_f_hhQ1NqybdBKUdCdx1sfqao-ytFI/s1600/25+One+thousand+feet+deep+here%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLWf5kO18-pIfNzs3y33Uuf3jUKMlcZZ18UDhlWXm3AEUpzffPgibQwgrFLfsTYT8WFv4S-ymfZEA6VKDM4IEeOj-E_b2wZ22zmEMRdHe0id_f_hhQ1NqybdBKUdCdx1sfqao-ytFI/s320/25+One+thousand+feet+deep+here%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Heading back down Tracy Arm, we were less than two or three
boat lengths from the sheer rock walls bordering the fiord, and it was a
thousand to twelve hundred feet deep! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhefxsUv4pQTCwAMqk8fxhLnVuPZouxKSeiGDLmhns8h9_-27CEKgkuHQtWla95YEgoZ_FT-5nbXFVU6vu50pTylvpUtgUs8ZEXoFyp6gZvhM1PNc5XD9aV2zr8ZZSpLCJtls40GG7b/s1600/26+Orca+behind+iceberg%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhefxsUv4pQTCwAMqk8fxhLnVuPZouxKSeiGDLmhns8h9_-27CEKgkuHQtWla95YEgoZ_FT-5nbXFVU6vu50pTylvpUtgUs8ZEXoFyp6gZvhM1PNc5XD9aV2zr8ZZSpLCJtls40GG7b/s320/26+Orca+behind+iceberg%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Orcas! Two of them swam behind this iceberg. This dorsal fin
belongs to a big male.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">And then!</b> We
didn’t get a photo of this because it would have looked like a small dark blob,
and besides, we couldn’t tear ourselves away from the sight of it long enough
to grab a camera, but I noticed something moving—it looked like another “stump”
swimming across the ¾-mile wide fiord. What’s that, I said, thinking, oh, it’s probably
just a very dark small moose, and raised my binoculars. OHMYGOD, IT’S A BEAR
SWIMMING! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A very large brown bear was paddling along in the frigid
water, semi-vertical like a person treading water, shoulder hump held
surprisingly high, neck and head well out of the water, round ears alert, eyes constantly
looking around, and an expression on its face, I swear I am not making this up,
exactly the opposite of a large fierce carnivore and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">precisely</i> like one of those cute Teddy Bears kids put on their beds.
It was doing the best imitation of a smile that a bear could possibly do; we
have rarely seen an animal looking so pleased with itself. Its nose was also going
a mile a minute, trying to sniff out the Irish stew and cornbread we had cooking
on the stove, and while it was tempting to motor closer for a better look, we
didn’t, because even a big get-outta-town grizzly bear who’s trying to cross ¾
miles of icy water probably has its paws full, logistically speaking, so best
not to bother it. Plus, claw marks on the hull would not be fun, and it was
clear from the interest it was showing in Raven that the bear might have
approached us for a hearty helping of stew, and then maybe a second one, and
after that it probably would have eaten the dish and spoon, too, and demanded
all the Oreos on board. And then it might have demanded our stash of Miss
Vickie’s potato chips, which would be a bridge too far.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: Aww, it looks almost <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">huggable!</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: Tell me you didn’t just say that. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: Man, this place is like a glacial Jurassic Park!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx0vSZbGFRKrk1-dVpNp9s-mHSXs3G0eCR2UP0TzHbUVCAZyFyhfJBBOAFxhbHJb_oX7e5ahGNrobfb0NnnGsfcYOoQ6JHOcUpMUv08in8hoVLkga7V1J4YTxXnz5K4-Mm5OftfhSk/s1600/27+Eagle+percnes+on+iceberg%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx0vSZbGFRKrk1-dVpNp9s-mHSXs3G0eCR2UP0TzHbUVCAZyFyhfJBBOAFxhbHJb_oX7e5ahGNrobfb0NnnGsfcYOoQ6JHOcUpMUv08in8hoVLkga7V1J4YTxXnz5K4-Mm5OftfhSk/s320/27+Eagle+percnes+on+iceberg%252C+Tracy+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Icebergs make great perches for eagles and other birds. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: I don’t know about you, but when I see an iceberg, I
look for it on the chart. Do you do that?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: Um, no.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: Well, I’m going to write to Navionics after this and
complain about the icebergs not being on the chart. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: Riiiiight. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: Especially when they’re so close to navigation aids,
right?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGru1SYEzlgcyg8pqqDkRq09JcTxm98mN0hORXkND096OeVFiIdJ_-Yk5MBl9Sm8XpEk5OcDfVViRmWe90b9NwIK62rMPgMt1Dn33xzE_hVt_NIi2XNoz-fy-cYyWwfFmvvpkVJKcH/s1600/28+Icebergs%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGru1SYEzlgcyg8pqqDkRq09JcTxm98mN0hORXkND096OeVFiIdJ_-Yk5MBl9Sm8XpEk5OcDfVViRmWe90b9NwIK62rMPgMt1Dn33xzE_hVt_NIi2XNoz-fy-cYyWwfFmvvpkVJKcH/s320/28+Icebergs%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Day two, our attempt to get up Endicott Arm. The way the sun
played on these icebergs, and shone through them to make the blue luminous, was
astoundingly beautiful. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaF92tcMNzsZAaUtpIduUAx8abSszwdX9c-H9OIkmA0KPn_YNstmmQ3VRzKs7L3iHY5RQWkxVO9ckTiCq-59jIqKbrmsMCyQLxhL6-1F8p9zbKYnjCYFXXeWFPpuyyobtEv_WoIgx/s1600/29+Iceberg2%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaF92tcMNzsZAaUtpIduUAx8abSszwdX9c-H9OIkmA0KPn_YNstmmQ3VRzKs7L3iHY5RQWkxVO9ckTiCq-59jIqKbrmsMCyQLxhL6-1F8p9zbKYnjCYFXXeWFPpuyyobtEv_WoIgx/s320/29+Iceberg2%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
See what we mean?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl4MU503INbxuA2DJV0jT_3XKVgEqFkps6tA94COvWrmW3TwzxWBAL7ETmeZ9kj_c4QXon9hupgHZVPztv3ukuaGBOYJZdJO63B-h6C6teu93NQulgiXAx6-Ck_wBcdij14pwsg8yL/s1600/30+Salmon-shaped+iceberg%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl4MU503INbxuA2DJV0jT_3XKVgEqFkps6tA94COvWrmW3TwzxWBAL7ETmeZ9kj_c4QXon9hupgHZVPztv3ukuaGBOYJZdJO63B-h6C6teu93NQulgiXAx6-Ck_wBcdij14pwsg8yL/s320/30+Salmon-shaped+iceberg%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
OOOH! A fish-shaped iceberglet!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGYW0aODHvV5TkL6Yf5VMCc_598p_58Yql3uxetX95u7I_bk0k8E5gHOTMODSJg6nH4rr_fmI7ne9FFedQxxyxqd7lBuQcZFnREKmJ50JXnJqykGly_Ihs6FbDC8JiG2AStXfmypN/s1600/31+Nice+day+on+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGYW0aODHvV5TkL6Yf5VMCc_598p_58Yql3uxetX95u7I_bk0k8E5gHOTMODSJg6nH4rr_fmI7ne9FFedQxxyxqd7lBuQcZFnREKmJ50JXnJqykGly_Ihs6FbDC8JiG2AStXfmypN/s320/31+Nice+day+on+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s hard to take a bad photo in a place like this.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3eOPQ-D-VrGkBwvACG0AKGx7tBTCUDlz6m5KzGNOmQWX0M4IUDIZIRW24GGvkL8gL94ZEIIARotTx1nm9Muxhq9DxeKT0PBerLHJXm0GcYsJdbEfwEkesPldvpWzNAVVrEjCfspeo/s1600/32+Iceberg%252C+Epsilon+shape%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3eOPQ-D-VrGkBwvACG0AKGx7tBTCUDlz6m5KzGNOmQWX0M4IUDIZIRW24GGvkL8gL94ZEIIARotTx1nm9Muxhq9DxeKT0PBerLHJXm0GcYsJdbEfwEkesPldvpWzNAVVrEjCfspeo/s320/32+Iceberg%252C+Epsilon+shape%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Whaaaat? An Epsilon-shaped iceberg? We got fraternities up
here?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAO_m_Ewt2WCQJO_znAngspi9eg88oXF5joq0CtukAs4Qfxn6DNY3rzLx6FZHu1OSSS3Uwjyo7vPHpBtfQifLa2WU4amVZTbuf5EghlbB81prg-RcYm0fF5KiGQkRKIfnBcg9V1bEs/s1600/33+Karen+at+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAO_m_Ewt2WCQJO_znAngspi9eg88oXF5joq0CtukAs4Qfxn6DNY3rzLx6FZHu1OSSS3Uwjyo7vPHpBtfQifLa2WU4amVZTbuf5EghlbB81prg-RcYm0fF5KiGQkRKIfnBcg9V1bEs/s320/33+Karen+at+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We went up on the roof for a better view. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif16TF_NWXBmkUd7sSFMYsT8TSCHqdMEV8j_pcSjJ_RmziYQW1AO1IqPb-wqQhyphenhyphennaTtZRo7v7knfDrgDbwO9gO4N0WwuoRib-QFIBy4OI4tBgsfzDcV3Rs0Oe4CzRDsqlCO3ApJvv6/s1600/34+Jim+kayaks+around+large+iceberg%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif16TF_NWXBmkUd7sSFMYsT8TSCHqdMEV8j_pcSjJ_RmziYQW1AO1IqPb-wqQhyphenhyphennaTtZRo7v7knfDrgDbwO9gO4N0WwuoRib-QFIBy4OI4tBgsfzDcV3Rs0Oe4CzRDsqlCO3ApJvv6/s320/34+Jim+kayaks+around+large+iceberg%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Okay, Sweetie, don’t get too close to these bad boys.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiccISdfL3MDEDdajwKlWMVprz4sv50yatzwdZ9rUhzvirP1BWeepyLntUPEI-Zc2cWbm55Q2B5XYyRljSxgDSJRk8G18SUWQ082wq1Bpi6d6RN4z4jVcCe4Sj3fUfpWQGvwQLzrN63/s1600/35+Jim+too+close+to+iceberg%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiccISdfL3MDEDdajwKlWMVprz4sv50yatzwdZ9rUhzvirP1BWeepyLntUPEI-Zc2cWbm55Q2B5XYyRljSxgDSJRk8G18SUWQ082wq1Bpi6d6RN4z4jVcCe4Sj3fUfpWQGvwQLzrN63/s320/35+Jim+too+close+to+iceberg%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sweetie, you’re a little close to that iceberg…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgci33e4cVeFCiUQOr0oOe1MZsZZcxOyL1Yui23quKX7m6Vv56LtuFU4eTJTxWQfm-awxzQ7Tm3zRUyy0Fhmh-WoomGvYQ9evVd9xGMpLdXyYdTiPYytVrzreubGR0qWQmgl274qRb-/s1600/36+Raven+w+iceberg%252C+not+as+close+as+it+looks%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgci33e4cVeFCiUQOr0oOe1MZsZZcxOyL1Yui23quKX7m6Vv56LtuFU4eTJTxWQfm-awxzQ7Tm3zRUyy0Fhmh-WoomGvYQ9evVd9xGMpLdXyYdTiPYytVrzreubGR0qWQmgl274qRb-/s320/36+Raven+w+iceberg%252C+not+as+close+as+it+looks%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I swear to god, Raven is not as close to this iceberg as it
looks. Okay?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE2jSl1G_Gd7EewBC_UzUQdYgx1J3AhTw-qb0kZFBmsQ74y9t63NZzAtH9bdRhrzNuFF8PwzoVMVw3t-bD20zeUe9_X8wBi1pQh0EzEfHqvQIyWhTAcRP8htdPGrdgyor0Q9kuM_SG/s1600/37+Raven+w+iceberg%252C+fun+with+perspective%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE2jSl1G_Gd7EewBC_UzUQdYgx1J3AhTw-qb0kZFBmsQ74y9t63NZzAtH9bdRhrzNuFF8PwzoVMVw3t-bD20zeUe9_X8wBi1pQh0EzEfHqvQIyWhTAcRP8htdPGrdgyor0Q9kuM_SG/s320/37+Raven+w+iceberg%252C+fun+with+perspective%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Fun with perspective. Raven was well away from this frozen
tsunami, but Jim found the money shot.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtfTBOKoN1PcFR6CBkevgKPAN_-ngnYAg47Nc4X3qOAPUxP9kCyAnuk7Kd3Er806vAZTu_42CtQjz3kOFYtd8xv8sOTV8_LMjqdDcRB7k63VgDmCmbMCBAVMLJUQQYnq8OEOQVVqv/s1600/38+Sumdum+glacier%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtfTBOKoN1PcFR6CBkevgKPAN_-ngnYAg47Nc4X3qOAPUxP9kCyAnuk7Kd3Er806vAZTu_42CtQjz3kOFYtd8xv8sOTV8_LMjqdDcRB7k63VgDmCmbMCBAVMLJUQQYnq8OEOQVVqv/s320/38+Sumdum+glacier%252C+Endicott+Arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sumdum glacier no longer reaches the water. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht9jQTBPZ6eJ2i2h-b9T_yBoh3dh-DeSNuF7Do3iItYe0KU0hvLT2WvYHVnuWyNpriwzNmK2rsuRn49ukqUT7zvLsxCeoKw-2Pu1muCdwH5pV-o84rLBnSRb7iBWfeNG5UCq00LHPQ/s1600/39+Tracy+Arm+Cove+anchorage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht9jQTBPZ6eJ2i2h-b9T_yBoh3dh-DeSNuF7Do3iItYe0KU0hvLT2WvYHVnuWyNpriwzNmK2rsuRn49ukqUT7zvLsxCeoKw-2Pu1muCdwH5pV-o84rLBnSRb7iBWfeNG5UCq00LHPQ/s320/39+Tracy+Arm+Cove+anchorage.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our little pocket cove at the mouth of Tracy Arm.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig2csCdyJLWVwnDaDGUKBUtO_uspYzy6GHGTAgVv5NI9K9z68KKeFoxFwhf7Mr_pijp_A45Jxx2tFiuhhBbmGGleyqNFzxUaoBJ42cal-jrrFfPLwznotSs18sbBLY0E0AHOAsCLxb/s1600/40+Bear+TV%252C+Tracy+Arm+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig2csCdyJLWVwnDaDGUKBUtO_uspYzy6GHGTAgVv5NI9K9z68KKeFoxFwhf7Mr_pijp_A45Jxx2tFiuhhBbmGGleyqNFzxUaoBJ42cal-jrrFfPLwznotSs18sbBLY0E0AHOAsCLxb/s320/40+Bear+TV%252C+Tracy+Arm+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tune in to BearTV each night at seven for crunch ‘n munch
drama on the shoreline!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">So that’s the
Tracy-Endicott Arm adventure</b>. The warm sunny weather was bringing out the
bugs, and I made a mosquito net for the forward hatch that uses some spare lead
line we had lying around to weigh it down instead of having to screw snaps into
the wood. (If it gets windy the bugs disappear anyway.) It’s heavy so it’s wind-proof,
has the lead line covered with blue fabric so it won’t mar the surface of the
wood, and it can be rigged/de-rigged in a hurry.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCRsPjxm7SBMGO3DCm8C61XCd6T9oRqy3LAbiVI47LY-qJdA_NdTMk3n_3GQJsjULl4ipKcTkXWvzCF0mF-NQ3VTQtjj1ZuPZaSlj7FWdJcBonUDsL8wPkxW1QqB3mZkw8ipm1lQiZ/s1600/40a+new+mosquito+net+for+fwd+hatch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCRsPjxm7SBMGO3DCm8C61XCd6T9oRqy3LAbiVI47LY-qJdA_NdTMk3n_3GQJsjULl4ipKcTkXWvzCF0mF-NQ3VTQtjj1ZuPZaSlj7FWdJcBonUDsL8wPkxW1QqB3mZkw8ipm1lQiZ/s320/40a+new+mosquito+net+for+fwd+hatch.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">In the middle of Stephens Passage on our way to Cannery Cove
at the southern end of Admiralty Island, we were startled by a whale surfacing
about 50 feet off our starboard bow, so we slowed way down. Then </span><i style="font-size: 12pt;">two</i><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> whales, a large one and a small one,
so we stopped, and they surfaced ahead of us and swam a circle all around
Raven, about 30 feet away. Ahhh…</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE3eJZiP2Pf_RCJztn4dxzmsvAFthae8Ek9joFBXSb9zF2qgjqbnRuTHiGvqur-5gyM8KLno9DPyRMIVoNvcs8uhrfs1-d11xGp3-AZzsqASnnWjk0F6iIo16kaIhMVnFYGhYaW1oe/s1600/42+Cannery+Cove+in+Pybus+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE3eJZiP2Pf_RCJztn4dxzmsvAFthae8Ek9joFBXSb9zF2qgjqbnRuTHiGvqur-5gyM8KLno9DPyRMIVoNvcs8uhrfs1-d11xGp3-AZzsqASnnWjk0F6iIo16kaIhMVnFYGhYaW1oe/s320/42+Cannery+Cove+in+Pybus+Bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cannery Cove in Pybus Bay is very scenic.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz1qO0L3kIY-0fxRl_LRV5NM1HI99DHsZm83SJLKA1JDSzTQQcdwEQzFK50nnif4n4d82G1vrWfr-LQJDPxT9nBokEz0mSkyAZs3rM4QpqV0RLgNFtQ2m5DVNUY_7G9gaGU0KgmZ80/s1600/43+Raven+%2526+Northern+Light+at+anchor%252C+Cannery+Cove%252C+Pybus+bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz1qO0L3kIY-0fxRl_LRV5NM1HI99DHsZm83SJLKA1JDSzTQQcdwEQzFK50nnif4n4d82G1vrWfr-LQJDPxT9nBokEz0mSkyAZs3rM4QpqV0RLgNFtQ2m5DVNUY_7G9gaGU0KgmZ80/s320/43+Raven+%2526+Northern+Light+at+anchor%252C+Cannery+Cove%252C+Pybus+bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We were anchored with a 38-foot pilothouse sloop named
Northern Light, and invited its owner, Danny, and his sweet little Chihuahua,
Bella, over for dinner. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leaving Cannery Cove we crossed Frederick Sound again, this
time in flat calm. Blog posts sometimes get written on the run.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj58NC-wkiEiTosVmOKhh1jiif3UGeF7_qJFjHH3meAZdkct3skOblPRhG_wXG6w4Qxyu540nYU9D9CzhTXPsy_kLFbjjIGG8iPj9vAHm9OfeyMlUDu9cwWhl3JDkBU_1zwVbAWDsIh/s1600/44+Karen+works+on+blog+post.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj58NC-wkiEiTosVmOKhh1jiif3UGeF7_qJFjHH3meAZdkct3skOblPRhG_wXG6w4Qxyu540nYU9D9CzhTXPsy_kLFbjjIGG8iPj9vAHm9OfeyMlUDu9cwWhl3JDkBU_1zwVbAWDsIh/s320/44+Karen+works+on+blog+post.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Anchored in Cedar Cove, Security Bay we could see that it
was going to get rolly by evening, so we moved to anchor behind Cleft Island,
and oh my, was that ever animal heaven or what. Ravens yelled OOOOH! WAH! like an
arachnophobic grandma being startled by a large spider, songbirds warbled like
an orchestral flute section, sea otters floated on the surface with fat round babies
sleeping on their stomachs, eagles flew overhead, a black bear turned over
rocks on the beach, salmon jumped, a whale blew outside the harbor, and if you
could visualize a quintessential late evening near-biblical “cornucopia of
animals in harmony” sunset scene, this was it—except for the two young seals
that had a big fight right off our stern. Punks.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So imagine our surprise the next morning while rounding
Kingsmill Point on the northeast corner of Kuiu Island heading south in Chatham
Strait, when not one, not five, but ELEVEN OR TWELVE HUMPBACK WHALES surfaced
all at once! Here’s a photo to give you an idea of what it looks like when a
bunch of them do that and fog the air with their exhalations:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdo8ymUmcNcZYC8xqU6GY_fEbtGmddlMyNTCidy59d6xHReDXT-JoSRdRDGTQLuxaB9fwaCvd9xcVWPJDUyhGGouQBbpjfXeUjvcSpT0GVTbAtgKP0OjIL66oUw115csA_SwkIXodO/s1600/45+What+it+looks+like+when+11+whales+surface+at+same+time.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdo8ymUmcNcZYC8xqU6GY_fEbtGmddlMyNTCidy59d6xHReDXT-JoSRdRDGTQLuxaB9fwaCvd9xcVWPJDUyhGGouQBbpjfXeUjvcSpT0GVTbAtgKP0OjIL66oUw115csA_SwkIXodO/s320/45+What+it+looks+like+when+11+whales+surface+at+same+time.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">And when we looked at our depth sounder, we saw this.
Whale-shaped schools of fish, or whales, what do you think?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHukwfzrMCRzDKQaub7uxvU8uJ7AcFZOzbFDxpu6GWsrLYAPBg-eNXp9gAFlU-BZF1rdyCAqYV0ZXXGAlLtGxvIPGS0SaAgUPUganxvk0DNu91GBKg6Ys_LvdfQHhbJesDGsLuLbTX/s1600/46+Whale-shaped+fish+schools+or+whales%253F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHukwfzrMCRzDKQaub7uxvU8uJ7AcFZOzbFDxpu6GWsrLYAPBg-eNXp9gAFlU-BZF1rdyCAqYV0ZXXGAlLtGxvIPGS0SaAgUPUganxvk0DNu91GBKg6Ys_LvdfQHhbJesDGsLuLbTX/s320/46+Whale-shaped+fish+schools+or+whales%253F.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Wow, right? So there was a swirling current at this point,
which whales love because it concentrates their food supply, and they were
taking big gulps, coming up with mouths open and snapping them shut. Sometimes there are just no words... </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>A cruising couple we met said, You MUST go see Tebenkof Bay,
</b>there are so many places to anchor and it’s off the beaten path! So we did,
found a wonderful spot and set Raven up in “lounge mode” that included the
sailing dinghy ready for dashing sorties across the bay. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBwm65hPVQ7v_TbqsMd_joDlRfE4FOuv39tiXw6DYOPoyNHZXGOkjz1AxLxHFUvFR0kPsk_eIsmxh1p9nKSGJ6y8yYqe9x9Dhpy3-6L0BFXURiBoI_BAvFjmaVgYH6YP4iaXt9dwM3/s1600/46a+Raven+in+lounge-play+mode%252C+Tebenkof+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBwm65hPVQ7v_TbqsMd_joDlRfE4FOuv39tiXw6DYOPoyNHZXGOkjz1AxLxHFUvFR0kPsk_eIsmxh1p9nKSGJ6y8yYqe9x9Dhpy3-6L0BFXURiBoI_BAvFjmaVgYH6YP4iaXt9dwM3/s320/46a+Raven+in+lounge-play+mode%252C+Tebenkof+Bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven in lounge mode.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Karen sailed it and the wind died after Jim tried it and had
to row back, so he went fishing.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7J4uC4iv_F_pqx5nKiu_QKpDLbR2tPpXpd1j-n9r95cA4v75k9DsdvrA6dD-XZLdbjz-9OtCnTRhoRZJl3gPO70cWFsRU_JeIB0T4L59zHklxEZhuMYs1PSIcmUX8F-OV_y1C7Hqg/s1600/47+Karen+sails+dinghy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7J4uC4iv_F_pqx5nKiu_QKpDLbR2tPpXpd1j-n9r95cA4v75k9DsdvrA6dD-XZLdbjz-9OtCnTRhoRZJl3gPO70cWFsRU_JeIB0T4L59zHklxEZhuMYs1PSIcmUX8F-OV_y1C7Hqg/s320/47+Karen+sails+dinghy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Here he is returning with the dinghy in fishing mode, but you
can see from his expression that he got skunked again, dang it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvVX324INYa1ymfhjqf6gwjZyj6-823g8fdo1DyGtf16KDEBnPKtnpjRs_Tz7YaxS69EjENE5XD4qScIkARijoljpx2SQYvF5DcdAGoZyCgSrj7e0KKimtn1t_yrzVbdNXxxYcK3Wt/s1600/48+Jim+returns+from+fishing%252C+Tebenkof+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvVX324INYa1ymfhjqf6gwjZyj6-823g8fdo1DyGtf16KDEBnPKtnpjRs_Tz7YaxS69EjENE5XD4qScIkARijoljpx2SQYvF5DcdAGoZyCgSrj7e0KKimtn1t_yrzVbdNXxxYcK3Wt/s320/48+Jim+returns+from+fishing%252C+Tebenkof+Bay.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">As consolation he rowed to the nearby island and hiked its
old-growth mossy mini-forest. Surprises like this tree, which had grown from a
stump of an ancestor tree that has since rotted away, along with thick soft
moss everywhere, made up for catching no fish. Well, not really, but it was
nice.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvC94fUUUeo3h8jZArQNM3Tr8CnDsbWZOIgedpkPFgs_3vFyhUSkIyYhQ3nWRft6U-p6DOLDH92nEdXZ5vWbGI1ifGsZ2TNrzhOh0P2lDuWwt1Uz6-Vt9Caac4pzggiRR-HlPIdn6t/s1600/49+Old+tree+with+hollow+under+it.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvC94fUUUeo3h8jZArQNM3Tr8CnDsbWZOIgedpkPFgs_3vFyhUSkIyYhQ3nWRft6U-p6DOLDH92nEdXZ5vWbGI1ifGsZ2TNrzhOh0P2lDuWwt1Uz6-Vt9Caac4pzggiRR-HlPIdn6t/s320/49+Old+tree+with+hollow+under+it.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="font-size: 12pt;">After a couple of
calm sunny days in the far back reaches of Tebenkof Bay</b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">, where horseflies
should really be called clydesdale flies (plus they need an air traffic controller,)
we decided to steam toward the bay’s entrance to see if we could find a cell
signal or a VHF signal out in the strait, for a weather report. The idea was to
get the forecast, steam back to another anchorage in the bay, and wait for a calm
weather window for our passage in the Gulf of Alaska (or should I say GULP! of
Alaska) in order to round Cape Decision on the south tip of Kuiu Island.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzcbeujiMONY_hqle5LPm3RlMx1oIscBw-jSL3Rp4IBPK0H1lfZL62rK1qNzyEKrUkwoyACqheMXTHy6JfjfYwHDTuMDLJ6qqeM_VuFhFHzE_Diwi1HRkjbMvmz0qAmmBdw97PkZxv/s1600/50+Gulf+of+Alaska+off+Kuiu+Island%252C+Coronation+Is+in+distance%252C+7-6-18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzcbeujiMONY_hqle5LPm3RlMx1oIscBw-jSL3Rp4IBPK0H1lfZL62rK1qNzyEKrUkwoyACqheMXTHy6JfjfYwHDTuMDLJ6qqeM_VuFhFHzE_Diwi1HRkjbMvmz0qAmmBdw97PkZxv/s320/50+Gulf+of+Alaska+off+Kuiu+Island%252C+Coronation+Is+in+distance%252C+7-6-18.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yep, this was the Gulf of Alaska. Coronation Island in the distance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">But it was flat calm out there and the weather forecast was
benign, so we decided to just keep going and sneak around the GULP! before it
woke up. And it wasn’t the only thing sleeping. A couple hours into the
passage, Jim said What’s that up ahead… hey, is that a whale? I don’t see a
spout.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was indeed a whale, just beneath the surface and sound
asleep, right in front of us. What gave it away was the whale-sized circle of
smooth water surrounded by small ripples. We slowed and swerved to go around it
(this being an advantage of a boat doing only 5 or 6 knots) and it woke up.
Yeeks! It swam toward us and dived under the boat. Wow! Another couple of
whales were feeding just off Cape Decision, same wide open mouths snapping shut
and causing us to wear out the word WOW. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">We steamed up Affleck
Channel to anchor in the remote and aptly named Bear Harbor, </b>which had, we
kid you not, a bear on every beach. It was like Disney’s Kountry Bear Jamboree
in there. Bears effortlessly overturning hundred-pound rocks looking for stuff
to eat. Bears lumbering around like inebriates leaving their favorite pubs.
Bears sniffing, bears scratching, bears slurping, chomping and staring at each
other. We even watched a bear answer the question, “Does a bear s*** in the
woods?” Actually it was on a beach, and as we watched it from the dinghy and
kayak, it gave us one of those <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">whatchu
lookin’ at?</i> stares. There were so many bears, in fact, (all of them black
bears; the two species have claimed separate islands in Southeast Alaska) that
Jim would occasionally go, Hm, I haven’t seen a bear in an hour, what’s going
on?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw2tOu1u-zUP09Zdw32p9ivVPM1wNRCoJNl6laKtWMcCxpwVZ2Uk88DXe-4_h0ncGXX8HzmfANFn3qFwbrT6Tnnb1GXEY23N84PpI6Ph816xi3sHX2zZu0WWijaKiG3Z3I8xpoLPh5/s1600/51+Black+bear+on+beach%252C+Bear+Harbor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw2tOu1u-zUP09Zdw32p9ivVPM1wNRCoJNl6laKtWMcCxpwVZ2Uk88DXe-4_h0ncGXX8HzmfANFn3qFwbrT6Tnnb1GXEY23N84PpI6Ph816xi3sHX2zZu0WWijaKiG3Z3I8xpoLPh5/s320/51+Black+bear+on+beach%252C+Bear+Harbor.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="font-size: 12pt;">Thus, dear reader,
you might expect</b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">, as one would if one used the logic lobe of one’s brain,
that if one kayaked ashore in BEAR Harbor, one perhaps *might* encounter a bear,
no?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: (Points to the island next to where we were anchored) I’m
going to kayak to this island over here and do a little hiking.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: (Points to a neighboring island) There was a bear on the
beach over there an hour ago, and the sand bar between the islands is exposed
because it’s low tide.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: It’ll be okay.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Whenever Jim says, “It’ll be okay,” I have learned that a
DefCon4 alert is not far in my future. (See <u><a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/2018/06/tales-from-glacier-bay.html" target="_blank">blog post</a></u> on fishing for
halibut while dragging anchor.) He kayaked ashore, left the kayak on the
island’s south end, and went for a walk. Ten minutes pass. I’m on deck, working
on the aforementioned mosquito/clydesdale fly net. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: KAREN! KAREN! HEY!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
He’s standing on the island’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">north</i> end. Gee, I’m thinking, he got there fast.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: HI, SWEETIE, ARE YOU HAVING FUN?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: (points to the island’s south end) THERE’S A BEAR DOWN
THERE AND HE’S HEADED FOR THE KAYAK!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: THE BEAR WILL DESTROY THE KAYAK IF HE FINDS IT. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
(first unspoken implication: you’re on the menu, too, if you
can’t get off that island.) <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
(second unspoken implication: JUST WHAT WERE YOU EXPECTING,
MACHO MAN, A PETTING ZOO?)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
JIM: COME GET ME!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Like Wonder Woman I jumped into the dinghy, gave a heroic
pull on the outboard’s starter cord, and was astonished to hear it start, given
the fact that this is a Jim-centric machine. I picked him up and we motored
around to the south end of the island, making ungodly noises to scare off the
bear. (This tactic would, of course, not have worked on a brown bear; for one
of those we would have waved cheerio and wished it fine dining on its neoprene
meal.) Our noises worked and the bear was not around, so Jim fetched the kayak
and I got my husband back, not to mention some comedic material. But jeez, ya
know?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Which brings us to…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Unspoken Law of the
Sea #9:<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When surrounded by bears, one should assume they are mobile.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And, off-topic but still valid when at anchor in a quiet
place:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Unspoken Law of the
Sea #10:</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When you spend a lot, and we
mean a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">lot</i> of time in the wilderness
and you find yourself hearing nothing but quiet natural sounds on America’s Independence
Day, and someone who shall go nameless but is barefoot a lot farts very, very
loudly, you are allowed to exclaim, “HAPPY FOURTH!” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi605UdFylsH8dXiY8f8DC_D1K-m2taeY6W0TLTZWQPFMJGBdIBWUSnZQGHkMR7KSfmTSUNT2ZT0X_VwtQtfUIzliyS47wwN8uaLKKiGMwpYujqbwTjx0cPcj8Gk57RQMGYMep5-UH4/s1600/52+Raven+at+anchor%252C+Nossuk+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi605UdFylsH8dXiY8f8DC_D1K-m2taeY6W0TLTZWQPFMJGBdIBWUSnZQGHkMR7KSfmTSUNT2ZT0X_VwtQtfUIzliyS47wwN8uaLKKiGMwpYujqbwTjx0cPcj8Gk57RQMGYMep5-UH4/s320/52+Raven+at+anchor%252C+Nossuk+Bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Now, if you have read </span><u style="font-size: 12pt;"><a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/2018/05/post-cards-from-ocean-road.html" target="_blank">an earlier blog post</a></u><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> on how the
lack of a fishing net caused dinner to slip away, literally through Jim’s
fingers, you would have had an inkling of my reaction when in Bear Harbor I
asked, Where’s the fishing net? and Jim said that the, uh, brand new, very expensive
thing had, er, accidentally gone overboard when he’d, ah, um, forgotten that it
was atop the back cabin as he pulled the back cover down in a rainstorm. He
never heard the plop and I said not a word, but
telepathy is real, bebehs. We managed to scoop up a lingcod in a bucket, but it
was too small to keep. However, we did score a rockfish using the bucket. We will get a new net.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigjr83Rgr0u1JBK5HksQ5UX6Xb86hcIFvIdAR9pfh4o6K5_9HQjk2L7OZkYgBN0c81lYXLevngmtgpwymGtAF2awgYREoEoeeBNs7ZSES6I8gQjxQeP_aYpqtdyXftfBz4Gt7kLHLu/s1600/54+Columbines%252C+El+Capitan+Passage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigjr83Rgr0u1JBK5HksQ5UX6Xb86hcIFvIdAR9pfh4o6K5_9HQjk2L7OZkYgBN0c81lYXLevngmtgpwymGtAF2awgYREoEoeeBNs7ZSES6I8gQjxQeP_aYpqtdyXftfBz4Gt7kLHLu/s320/54+Columbines%252C+El+Capitan+Passage.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="font-size: 12pt;">Three days of
watching BearTV</b><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> and we were ready to cross Sumner Strait to Prince of Wales
Island. Although we wanted to go see a place called Hole in the Wall, the
weather forecast was not good and we didn’t want to get stuck there for several
days, so we headed for the narrow shortcut called El Capitan Passage.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNyRFFsk1hDAQ79O2NLtjSwu_glpl3kx6cE80AGFGDtsJ2qjQqz3D8sm61K-Rgksrhd0X9V2DyQHbtWXzUValXjurbJ7tBuGcQqrD19OtRmUmZZ8FLRjTy_QImFnZlGVU47P7EXLlE/s1600/53+1776+miles+at+Hamilton+Island%252C+perfect.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNyRFFsk1hDAQ79O2NLtjSwu_glpl3kx6cE80AGFGDtsJ2qjQqz3D8sm61K-Rgksrhd0X9V2DyQHbtWXzUValXjurbJ7tBuGcQqrD19OtRmUmZZ8FLRjTy_QImFnZlGVU47P7EXLlE/s320/53+1776+miles+at+Hamilton+Island%252C+perfect.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DUDES! We got 1776 miles on this trip odometer at Hamilton Island! How cool is that!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Near its entrance we set the anchor carefully in a small
cove to wait out the coming weather front. All was well until the next morning
when, after a 180 degree wind shift, our anchor (a brand-new Spade) got fouled
in a massive double wad of kelp and the boat slowly started dragging, which, in
a small cove is not good. Happily, I had a cup of coffee going and was lucid,
and we said, well, let’s just go find a better anchorage, this weather’s not
getting any better. Poor Jim had to clear the biggest mess of organic material
off our anchor and chain since the time we anchored in a tree in Barkley Sound
almost ten years ago. This Spade anchor, by the way, has otherwise been superb,
and it scored very high in the now-famous </span><u style="font-size: 12pt;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l59f-OjWoq0&feature=youtu.be" target="_blank">series of underwater video tests</a></u><span style="font-size: 12pt;"> on a variety of anchors conducted by Port Townsend’s own Steve Goodwin out in
the bay. Goodwin now uses a Spade on his own boat, and probably no anchor of
any type could have held in that tangled kelp on a wind shift turnover.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbyLDKXZgDaoS8iQWOCCJc57NjoWd03neQ3eGHRuoN_sewS8zp3oNIyDUe71yuQaiPYihcabsYWHSDSuhlhRezZoYXO4xpmZ2sDpCV9mtGxnvNc89Z4n7FH_AUoIk_1ClXWFEn8BNo/s1600/54+El+Capitan+Passage+entrance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbyLDKXZgDaoS8iQWOCCJc57NjoWd03neQ3eGHRuoN_sewS8zp3oNIyDUe71yuQaiPYihcabsYWHSDSuhlhRezZoYXO4xpmZ2sDpCV9mtGxnvNc89Z4n7FH_AUoIk_1ClXWFEn8BNo/s320/54+El+Capitan+Passage+entrance.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coming from the north you leave reds to port and greens to starboard--good to know beforehand.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="font-size: 12pt;">Back to El Capitan
Passage</b><span style="font-size: 12pt;">. While not as fearsome as the sphincter-puckering Devil’s Elbow in
Keku Strait just north of here, the area around what’s called Dry Pass is rock-wacky
enough to command your full attention, especially in rain and wind. Besides,
who wouldn’t wonder about the sanity of piloting a floating object through
something called “Dry”? We found a great spot to anchor with no kelp and lots
of sticky mud, and enjoyed the rainy day.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwu6NgY5z3kb5llCMi13ZtNpe346nzUQeoBXRnVLD-NKzeOy6pIhVfY_wpvhWU2c-UQd9yGnAvYrU53Jd5HLjchO7G_r1UbQ8tFaD31sz4jPrSg78et7DjMfre_-f-5qc1SzSDJjyi/s1600/55+Dry+Pass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwu6NgY5z3kb5llCMi13ZtNpe346nzUQeoBXRnVLD-NKzeOy6pIhVfY_wpvhWU2c-UQd9yGnAvYrU53Jd5HLjchO7G_r1UbQ8tFaD31sz4jPrSg78et7DjMfre_-f-5qc1SzSDJjyi/s320/55+Dry+Pass.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Next morning we motored a couple miles over to the Forest
Service’s pier, anchored near it and rowed ashore to explore El Capitan Cave,
the largest cave in Alaska. <a href="http://apps.usd.edu/esci/alaska/elcap.html" target="_blank">Read this</a> to get a sense of what's in there--talk about Ice Age relics! For some reason, both of
us had missed the little detail in the cruising guide that says there are 340
large wooden steps going most of the way up the side of a mountain, and there
was no sign by the Forest Service advising us of that, so up we went,
oblivious.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbK-vx7e-F_uJuGwqjPQ1iJihbwNDte57BjECjv6h8azdmZFZkcNB1RKtKFGo5HvsITYWmqHDbNQv4veALqXHK1Jqkwjkl5TRuJvS_1TctKOuqYV8B_aSXGufSw4fzVJfQdnRjq937/s1600/56+Stairs+at+El+Capitan+Cave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbK-vx7e-F_uJuGwqjPQ1iJihbwNDte57BjECjv6h8azdmZFZkcNB1RKtKFGo5HvsITYWmqHDbNQv4veALqXHK1Jqkwjkl5TRuJvS_1TctKOuqYV8B_aSXGufSw4fzVJfQdnRjq937/s320/56+Stairs+at+El+Capitan+Cave.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Puffing like a couple of antique steam engines, we reached
the top. Hikes have not been frequent on this trip due to dense forest (and
bears, duh,) and our legs were out of shape. Boy what a view, and wow what a cave.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu-ne-aRrbz8bCL2P4LtjQUjZkeYc-CkhvJP3gbwgFkq0C0M8z_OaraLx59xPm5jbSSBMVaibMMcMBPSYdU5h1DQACEUDmQIKlMxpAGdjJHEI06H_2TXrWHqIvzC1X-k-Q04FIZWUG/s1600/57+Cave+entrance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu-ne-aRrbz8bCL2P4LtjQUjZkeYc-CkhvJP3gbwgFkq0C0M8z_OaraLx59xPm5jbSSBMVaibMMcMBPSYdU5h1DQACEUDmQIKlMxpAGdjJHEI06H_2TXrWHqIvzC1X-k-Q04FIZWUG/s320/57+Cave+entrance.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">We clambered over some fallen rocks, turned on our
flashlights, and went spelunking. Just like that, nobody around, and there are
no lights or railings or other “improvements,” it’s in its original condition,
though the fossil bones (some over 11,000 years old and including a giant bear 12,295 years old) and artifacts have been removed for safekeeping. Not to
over-state the obvious, but caves are dark, and it’s fun to turn off your
lights and try to see your hand in front of your face. There's even a species of shrimp that lives in complete darkness its whole life, in that cave.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX3O5Z4uvd2aXKb0Ghhbk4BPKpiAohvMWNL7cJIlcftezeEF20LRK9qNstSDO1-F0FDWna4xvTfrkQ2pn2EUR9t9WTkmH14yf6XZbaxn3ZAhGitod6l1E5aCnVM0K-i9YanX5MsBrW/s1600/58+Jim+in+cave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX3O5Z4uvd2aXKb0Ghhbk4BPKpiAohvMWNL7cJIlcftezeEF20LRK9qNstSDO1-F0FDWna4xvTfrkQ2pn2EUR9t9WTkmH14yf6XZbaxn3ZAhGitod6l1E5aCnVM0K-i9YanX5MsBrW/s320/58+Jim+in+cave.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It also explains why bats evolved with echolocation. Though we
didn’t see any bats, we did see the perfect spot for a hearth fire with its own
natural chimney (this cave was occupied by humans about 3,200 years ago, and
their torches left carbon deposits on the ceilings.) Pretty cool to try and
imagine where people might have cooked, slept, told stories, etc to get out of
the winter weather. A couple hundred feet in we came to a gate blocking off the
presumably more dangerous sections of the cave, including a passage called “The
Colon Crawl.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-mJN5u2L27RxrLWgA13riEH2zi7YmlU7C_mn0RkuucRHqT1KOTSajiody6-X-gu9zGB_P9yWbAi7KcnojjwrXAXzgDZb0d55eYI-qoXovJq69RuXQds1gR3SWuHn4IYriyCXw4pja/s1600/59+Jim+at+gate+in+El+Capitan+cave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-mJN5u2L27RxrLWgA13riEH2zi7YmlU7C_mn0RkuucRHqT1KOTSajiody6-X-gu9zGB_P9yWbAi7KcnojjwrXAXzgDZb0d55eYI-qoXovJq69RuXQds1gR3SWuHn4IYriyCXw4pja/s320/59+Jim+at+gate+in+El+Capitan+cave.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">We continued down El Capitan Passage in more wind and rain,
and found good shelter in a tiny unnamed cove on the northwest part of Tuxekan
Island (avoid the unsurveyed ledge to port if you go in there.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7TD0i2CBgFEHp_5S26i-O-vfDgO5Ye_yqoELXJVUPxTnN3bAEvB1XI5d8wJtVtqOH1I5ls6AFlsyMvIXu8I2IIUVMSgPKHHnRfxUwF5jX0-JZBq2oSvxn0OBnWgD8mDEyrmhyy-Hv/s1600/60+Cove+at+NW+side+of+Tuxekan+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7TD0i2CBgFEHp_5S26i-O-vfDgO5Ye_yqoELXJVUPxTnN3bAEvB1XI5d8wJtVtqOH1I5ls6AFlsyMvIXu8I2IIUVMSgPKHHnRfxUwF5jX0-JZBq2oSvxn0OBnWgD8mDEyrmhyy-Hv/s320/60+Cove+at+NW+side+of+Tuxekan+Island.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">A small humpback whale was feeding in the outer cove. Next
morning we said, let’s just go a short distance and fish the whole way. Once
underway, we saw the small whale, who was joined by two others. As we trolled
near a small island, one of the whales swam toward us and rolled up on its
side. Then, as we trolled away from it at about 2 ½ knots, it caught up and swam
alongside us the entire length of the island! Ten minutes later as we approached
Turn Point, there was a lot of splashing up against the rocks. We didn’t see
any waves. A WHALE! ANOTHER ONE, RIGHT UP AGAINST THE ROCKS! Less than two boat
lengths from us, it rolled and then opened its mouth and we could see the
baleen. Wow! We turned Raven away to give it more room, and it followed us!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now you might be thinking, hey, how ‘bout some photos? Huh?
Huh? But when you are multitasking, steering the boat while trolling near seaweedy rocks
with a whale nearby and trying to avoid both, with the whale surfacings
impossible to predict and lasting only a second or two, we have concluded that
we would need a staff photographer to properly capture the scene. This is what
you get: <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi52-gDBT9iCoHwLtLwvQfGpbwBFVTKHal7hNCxWQICOCdr1CIvXk-bIyqVBNnU_U0gEmXgug9OhyphenhyphenU59jTUSwaMbUEfpTETm9hteEN05H1ChOr5vGTWSynRjeLCCTsZwSVOoKtkt1ul/s1600/60a+Whale+blows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi52-gDBT9iCoHwLtLwvQfGpbwBFVTKHal7hNCxWQICOCdr1CIvXk-bIyqVBNnU_U0gEmXgug9OhyphenhyphenU59jTUSwaMbUEfpTETm9hteEN05H1ChOr5vGTWSynRjeLCCTsZwSVOoKtkt1ul/s320/60a+Whale+blows.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">So to assuage your disappointment, here’s some more eco-porn (and so that you know, there
was yet another whale just beyond those islets in this photo.)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZ06kMmRDqXDiOgJiArZfK3pBc6IOwpfT_w-lRG2Gl5Hh3XVi21ktN41ZhuubSjpIr_WI3fv_8JCZtd1a4muonz6rEYPsvnPHRidekA4s72hZ_WtjXEYQ8IefUQ1xMs-FTSUlxGAq/s1600/61+Sunset+at+Nossuk+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZ06kMmRDqXDiOgJiArZfK3pBc6IOwpfT_w-lRG2Gl5Hh3XVi21ktN41ZhuubSjpIr_WI3fv_8JCZtd1a4muonz6rEYPsvnPHRidekA4s72hZ_WtjXEYQ8IefUQ1xMs-FTSUlxGAq/s320/61+Sunset+at+Nossuk+Bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">We put our fishing gear away, being so near these whales, and steamed at 4.2 knots, with this whale swimming alongside us (between 50-100 feet away)
for almost a mile! Later on, when it wasn’t around, we fished again, but
something snagged our downrigger gear and we lost the weight and cable. (It wasn't a whale.) Another thing to replace in Craig. We will get the hang of this fishing thing one of these decades. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">When we got to Nossuk Bay in afternoon wind and rain to find a sheltered place
to anchor in one of its nooks, another whale was swimming back and forth in the
bay! I log whale sightings, and conservatively estimate that since Ketchikan we
have had between 76 and 80 whale sightings, not counting ones way, way off in the distance.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFCz5RR0qqTXQ0PMDddSgT2AxDhkqhCXp9FhwqGAjYImveVs7aN7_WShUSBzL9THaeWcWrBFBkPGQSYQM7OP1CPWtOAHF8Uh_8rPHKHm3O5-F1qwgTg0ktU0Z2YGZ2I8GS8zsh8cuv/s1600/62+Raven+in+nook+at+Nossuk+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFCz5RR0qqTXQ0PMDddSgT2AxDhkqhCXp9FhwqGAjYImveVs7aN7_WShUSBzL9THaeWcWrBFBkPGQSYQM7OP1CPWtOAHF8Uh_8rPHKHm3O5-F1qwgTg0ktU0Z2YGZ2I8GS8zsh8cuv/s320/62+Raven+in+nook+at+Nossuk+Bay.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> So, I write this on a lay day in Craig, where JobOne was to GET A FREAKIN' HOT SHOWER. Done. Things like laundry, finding internet to post this blog, provisioning, replacing fishing gear, talking to fishermen to see if they have advice (they do), and FINDING A PUB are on the agenda. Then it's off to the southern part of Prince of Wales Island, to fish, play, wait for a good forecast, and get around Cape Chacon, which sticks out into Dixon Entrance, eventually crossing back over to the "mainland," where we will turn once again toward Prince Rupert, that great little Canadian city. All that will take a couple of weeks. </o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p>Which brings us to:</o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><i>Unspoken Law of the Sea #11:</i> If you have a boat, get out there and enjoy it. If you don't have a boat, get one.</o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgE2gtwi2K3FOubPYEFfROfhSFk1NfFyNmTS3LFPRsVD3hkmVu1owMh98-XCsZ7kput60nkiTHPFdVJRE1v1xuuJH6xJ7U9lktRBAAb8wI1S5fGt629fR2pBnqiFP4g5GQbqtZs2sD/s1600/47a+Karen+rows%252C+Bear+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgE2gtwi2K3FOubPYEFfROfhSFk1NfFyNmTS3LFPRsVD3hkmVu1owMh98-XCsZ7kput60nkiTHPFdVJRE1v1xuuJH6xJ7U9lktRBAAb8wI1S5fGt629fR2pBnqiFP4g5GQbqtZs2sD/s320/47a+Karen+rows%252C+Bear+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-20948082288420927942018-06-27T13:25:00.003-07:002018-06-27T13:26:11.972-07:00The Icy Strait Embrace<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK9qDTAap4WZNVfrcCY7qoUIwdebsM7J3G1KPyaCxrWSsyANOwMWmW_clAgvzVYIaQK_u0Y9fJHAAF7rIlGJsVm7m8saYClfTu-7jfIi0PpSl9gNCbLqqplZlkI024Tep2LjXSrxfF/s1600/1+Raven+in+the+rain%252C+Horse+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK9qDTAap4WZNVfrcCY7qoUIwdebsM7J3G1KPyaCxrWSsyANOwMWmW_clAgvzVYIaQK_u0Y9fJHAAF7rIlGJsVm7m8saYClfTu-7jfIi0PpSl9gNCbLqqplZlkI024Tep2LjXSrxfF/s320/1+Raven+in+the+rain%252C+Horse+Island.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven in the rain at anchor off Stephens Passage.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Raven is tied up at the Harris Harbor dock in Juneau.</b> Both of us have caught colds (in the wilderness? Really?) and are dosing ourselves with 11-hour naps. Normally we kiss each other several times a day (good morning Sweetie, good night Sweet Pea, I love you, Big Onion—plus, the NY Times says kissing makes you live longer) but with these colds, so that we don’t make things worse, we are just doing French cheek-to-cheek double air kisses, which looks so continental and debonair, dahlinks. We are getting weird stares from fishermen on the docks. And we are missing the ole smackeroos. Jim has branched out from air kisses to little shoulder nudges and fist bumps. It feels like Fourth Grade with the boys again.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW1XHRgx0kARKB2akGAv1odUvpk5JrRvUqgJkDUSU68BAIXAvPVjXfe5WCufGs1BhNOYUPaUClWTkg_vUzuMzpyAFtnoLzxhyphenhyphencIGgGOe9ADfySPrxd1tE8HG04ZXzCQ3GLNE7n2U-K/s1600/2+Jim+at+helm%252C+heading+for+Juneau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW1XHRgx0kARKB2akGAv1odUvpk5JrRvUqgJkDUSU68BAIXAvPVjXfe5WCufGs1BhNOYUPaUClWTkg_vUzuMzpyAFtnoLzxhyphenhyphencIGgGOe9ADfySPrxd1tE8HG04ZXzCQ3GLNE7n2U-K/s320/2+Jim+at+helm%252C+heading+for+Juneau.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rounding Mansfield Point; goodbye, Icy Strait.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Coming up Gastineau Channel and sneezily dodging two cruise ships, we saw 3 more docked at the piers, watched seaplanes land and helicopters fly overhead and thought, we are back in da big leagues.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-D_wMEp2BYopcvPTMFNgAhrVGCgGkMt5hfWz_2xIBiXXqnzDv4c2wLfVrYYwAmUFdpWFihCMMtqge0qbZw2cB8CCHOZzKL2OrsCPAXdd57wFLUj_qrdAtjOTtpgcDwOKDQlHeO5B/s1600/3+Cruise+ship%252C+Gastineau+Channel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-D_wMEp2BYopcvPTMFNgAhrVGCgGkMt5hfWz_2xIBiXXqnzDv4c2wLfVrYYwAmUFdpWFihCMMtqge0qbZw2cB8CCHOZzKL2OrsCPAXdd57wFLUj_qrdAtjOTtpgcDwOKDQlHeO5B/s320/3+Cruise+ship%252C+Gastineau+Channel.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Behemoth in a narrow channel.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But there’s lots more to Juneau than cruise ships. We wandered around the Sealaska Heritage Center enjoying all kinds of Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian art, and the downtown streets with their old-timey gold-rush atmosphere. There’s still a gold rush on whenever a cruise ship comes in.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyfMa-DAcwz_Ud5WC9r3gd9j5TIdcAPhrSumEnG7QqipsPGFFIKEbrrDC_N95P7Sh1-lmHll-u3GbydX12PTRiygfdF8xx4nDccsDX9Q2MGqKpk2cWuGlAgjaV0h0XmcSLnANUIXd8/s1600/4+Rainbow+in+our+bay%252C+other+end.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyfMa-DAcwz_Ud5WC9r3gd9j5TIdcAPhrSumEnG7QqipsPGFFIKEbrrDC_N95P7Sh1-lmHll-u3GbydX12PTRiygfdF8xx4nDccsDX9Q2MGqKpk2cWuGlAgjaV0h0XmcSLnANUIXd8/s320/4+Rainbow+in+our+bay%252C+other+end.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The evening before our arrival in Juneau. Looking south toward Stephens Passage.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But Karen, who used to live in Alaska, re-lived memories of playing music for many years at the Alaska Folk Festival at Centennial Hall, and gave Jim a tour of her old haunts. In the rain.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWN_wWe0TkQRXtETGJ9XNqxFoYOyH-yUP8SoSsvRmJfx2QZT6GuhyphenhyphenX3igF9cukUxU5Y3WhEREZkeTJ80AOzp2CXIv7QvANXJqlDwS4VPLVtoMtJBnW4xRuFjKO3lmhkd_Nw9E125CV/s1600/5+Water+texture%252C+Horse+Island4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWN_wWe0TkQRXtETGJ9XNqxFoYOyH-yUP8SoSsvRmJfx2QZT6GuhyphenhyphenX3igF9cukUxU5Y3WhEREZkeTJ80AOzp2CXIv7QvANXJqlDwS4VPLVtoMtJBnW4xRuFjKO3lmhkd_Nw9E125CV/s320/5+Water+texture%252C+Horse+Island4.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So much beauty in textures.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>And of course, the World’s Longest Pub Crawl continues,</b> with a stop at The Hangar Grill. After the Glacier Bay Lodge, we also hit the Coho Bar & Grill in Elfin Cove, and The Office again back in Hoonah, and also the Icy Strait Lodge there. And, of course, fish and chips aboard PubRaven. Competition for the best pub is getting fierce.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRaI1GESwgYQOUqPg_fYxA00udUxvyqtZaiYggnOjx2iGoGJWOgdGkWfYbBZSKYGbaX8VnGHl_LWWuXJid-o7xB32AGlUy6KkO4EdZ23Kt_AITNdE7Or0DzQNWGwFv_lIegdEA0-Bj/s1600/6+Karen+makes+fish+and+chips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRaI1GESwgYQOUqPg_fYxA00udUxvyqtZaiYggnOjx2iGoGJWOgdGkWfYbBZSKYGbaX8VnGHl_LWWuXJid-o7xB32AGlUy6KkO4EdZ23Kt_AITNdE7Or0DzQNWGwFv_lIegdEA0-Bj/s320/6+Karen+makes+fish+and+chips.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish and chips at PubRaven.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>We have spent the entire time since our last post</b> enjoying Icy Strait’s natural beauty and friendly communities. That last sentence sounds tourist brochure-y, but it’s no exaggeration: Icy Strait with all its fiords and inlets has been worth the effort to get up here.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguP17ziH65K44KUv7ayAU7Nx-EenrYr7D5YhYlJb7zieHySxD9uJZsh4MFIbtyH0A-mLdS1tdW5I2ZYR-S5ka5A_bxtvA7gFajFIN60XdfaziwiHGKSEz3RS4ZCrI7lkHTsIhWYKsT/s1600/6a+Karen+rowing+dinghy%252C+Dundas+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguP17ziH65K44KUv7ayAU7Nx-EenrYr7D5YhYlJb7zieHySxD9uJZsh4MFIbtyH0A-mLdS1tdW5I2ZYR-S5ka5A_bxtvA7gFajFIN60XdfaziwiHGKSEz3RS4ZCrI7lkHTsIhWYKsT/s320/6a+Karen+rowing+dinghy%252C+Dundas+Bay.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rowing the dinghy in Dundas Bay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Leaving Glacier Bay, we headed west,</b> to see the far end of Icy Strait where it meets the Gulf of Alaska. As we headed out for the Inian Islands after 9 great days in Glacier Bay, we called the Park Service’s radio operator, KWM-20, as you’re supposed to do, to notify them you’re leaving, and thanked them for their hospitality – they were very good to us. Through the mist off the tip of Lemesurier Island we saw a huge splash and then another and another; it went on for 10 minutes. Must be whales, we said, and finally through the mist we could see an enormous creature hurtling out of the water like an organic 30-ton missile! There were 5 humpback whales in all, having a ball feeding and breaching. And 2 more along the shore to the west. We are keeping track of our sightings of the numbers and locations of whales, bears, moose, wolves, and some seabird species, and will tally it up later.<br />
<br />
<b>There are some big currents in both north and south Inian Passage</b>, like 6 to 8 knots on spring tides, so we timed our exit to catch the ebb. Gotta go to the Hobbit Hole, our friends in Port Townsend said we mustn’t miss that! Oh wow, this looks great, I say as we enter the channel, and Jim says, but this isn’t the Hobbit Hole, <i>that’s</i> the Hobbit Hole over there, as he points up a rocky narrow passage. Nuh-uh, it’s low tide and that entrance is way too gnarly even for Raven (see photo below). So we anchored in the channel outside, called Mosquito Passage, and dinghied to the 10-acre cove.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdIwklO754fg8smGfPi3p0rfoyqT0q2hoWzUtNWlHgz4Gv2zv7WFr_ndyONJcqZrJVDLXs0rSDOI7E-LCL-9azSjFwc5DD16hW2wzXQdRWk1w3NXY66DGC4H0-nxf6xe0RdQNcsir_/s1600/7+Hobbit+Hole+entrance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdIwklO754fg8smGfPi3p0rfoyqT0q2hoWzUtNWlHgz4Gv2zv7WFr_ndyONJcqZrJVDLXs0rSDOI7E-LCL-9azSjFwc5DD16hW2wzXQdRWk1w3NXY66DGC4H0-nxf6xe0RdQNcsir_/s320/7+Hobbit+Hole+entrance.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to the Hobbit Hole at low tide.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It’s beautiful and an excellent hurricane hole, with a series of well-built and comfortable structures at one corner, called the Inian Institute.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPts7uqNTCrffHjTiK5a2vAP0jXYKgV4JlDcpBvMauBI2SDFsUwS9DUsU9OBvFgHV_Y__Sk_NKc2enc3L9jd83VO3-JDXPYY-tqTtmwIB4qoPfpbxjvgwPDxCzoG_TxtthhAX_ekQA/s1600/8+K%2526J+invade+the+Inian+Institute%252C+Hobbit+Hole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPts7uqNTCrffHjTiK5a2vAP0jXYKgV4JlDcpBvMauBI2SDFsUwS9DUsU9OBvFgHV_Y__Sk_NKc2enc3L9jd83VO3-JDXPYY-tqTtmwIB4qoPfpbxjvgwPDxCzoG_TxtthhAX_ekQA/s320/8+K%2526J+invade+the+Inian+Institute%252C+Hobbit+Hole.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">K&J invade the Inian Institute at the Hobbit Hole.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
You could, with great care, take a boat of Raven’s size in at high tide, and we would have done that if there’d been a big storm coming. We went ashore and Zack, a friendly Stanford oceanography Ph.D and the head of the Institute, gave us a tour. They have great plans and have partnered with high schools as far south as California (and while we were there, a boat flying Stanford University banners visited.) The idea is to teach a residential, hands-on ecological curriculum for 12-15 students, designed to give them a visceral connection with wild places and wild creatures, along with some biological knowledge they’ll need to help conserve them. Students of all ages will be welcome. While Zack himself will be doing a lot of the teaching, they are also looking for scientists and lecturers as guest faculty, so pass the word along for interested, qualified people to google and contact them. We wish them luck and success.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp52t2_thKwCK_RTIoDB381GtYaXCTAFNvzOLWsV6t_tF_NF_wpaKcXQe-HCrRgOo4dfdOAi7fDVl-gpBQ-XFDBQKx6ioouh7N19czNRn4AOCzvGZ1dWenwD2hxgWjtySxl0-29yfz/s1600/9+Hobbit+Hole+at+low+tide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp52t2_thKwCK_RTIoDB381GtYaXCTAFNvzOLWsV6t_tF_NF_wpaKcXQe-HCrRgOo4dfdOAi7fDVl-gpBQ-XFDBQKx6ioouh7N19czNRn4AOCzvGZ1dWenwD2hxgWjtySxl0-29yfz/s320/9+Hobbit+Hole+at+low+tide.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hobbit Hole at low tide.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Ten days later, when we were telling a Tlingit friend </b>about how nice the Hobbit Hole was, he chuckled and said whoops, then I won’t tell you the Indian name for it.<br />
Why not? we asked.<br />
Because it’s a bit rude.<br />
Rude?<br />
Well, it means, uh, ‘Place Out of the Wind Where One Can Poop,’ he said. It’s where, way back in the old days, native canoes would stop to, uh, ah, let everyone out so they could, uh…<br />
Poop? we offered.<br />
Yeah, he said. Maybe it’s best not to let that be too widely known, huh?<br />
Of course, we said.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>A bit of wind arrived and we stayed an extra day,</b> enjoying the peace and quiet, kayaking and rowing around. As we watched with fascination while an eagle swooped down again and again near our boat as it went after a large school of herring, and a couple of harbor porpoises dived into the herring ball, a big black inflatable cruise ship launch came roaring through, leaving a huge wake, scattering the critters, and rocking Raven. Then over the space of an hour another, and another—eight or nine passenger-filled large launches left us rocking in their wakes, until Jim yelled HEY! SLOW DOWN! YOU’RE RUINING THE PEACE HERE! and the last one did. We’re sorry, said the launch operator.<br />
Sure you are, we thought, you’re sorry we yelled at you in front of your boatload of passengers. WHAT SHIP ARE YOU OFF? I said.<br />
A crew member answered unintelligibly.<br />
WHAT?<br />
More unintelligible.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdLoW5j6l37K_MB2SxPqmjR8QtlGve8IA8hyphenhyphenU5OIj8Jc6sYCAf0WIeSmsjs4w2-bKl_3gXdWVR-x4q1urH1R9dacpK_PbS9qpxpM5Vchv9UDu-mmNn3kmY05ChSIMl7Ml8vqtI0TQc/s1600/10+Inian+Islands+%2526+Elfin+Cove.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1136" data-original-width="640" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdLoW5j6l37K_MB2SxPqmjR8QtlGve8IA8hyphenhyphenU5OIj8Jc6sYCAf0WIeSmsjs4w2-bKl_3gXdWVR-x4q1urH1R9dacpK_PbS9qpxpM5Vchv9UDu-mmNn3kmY05ChSIMl7Ml8vqtI0TQc/s320/10+Inian+Islands+%2526+Elfin+Cove.png" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We were underway in South Inian passage with a fair current for this screen shot, but you can see the Hobbit Hole near the center, plus Mosquito passage, and under the tide symbol just right of lower center, Elfin Cove. Open water to the left is where Cross Sound meets the Gulf of Alaska.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Not too pleased, I (K) called on the radio after they left: Cruise ship anchored outside Mosquito Passage on Inian Island, this is the motor vessel Raven. I tried twice. No answer. Finally, the ship’s name appeared on the AIS. Gotcha.<br />
National Geographic Quest, this is the motor vessel Raven.<br />
This time, the ship answered. Politely but firmly I told him how badly the 8 or 9 launch passes had disrupted the peace and rocked us, and he (we think it was the captain) apologized profusely, promising to get all the launch crews together and use it as a teachable moment.<br />
Okay, that’s good, I said. Grumpily, we left the anchorage, heading to Elfin Cove. There’s the cruise ship, still anchored, I said.<br />
Here comes a launch, said Jim.<br />
I altered course to let it pass us, but it turned toward us. I altered course again. Hey, said Jim, there’s just one person in it, a woman, and I think she’s coming toward us. We slowed down. A lone woman driving the launch was trying to flag us down by waving a fine bottle of cabernet sauvignon at us.<br />
<br />
Now, if you want to get the crew of the ole Raven to stop, there probably isn’t a better way to accomplish your goal.<br />
<br />
We stopped, she pulled up alongside, apologized, asked us to accept the bottle of wine as a token of their apology and appreciation for calling and alerting them to the problem, and she said the captain had used the occasion to teach the launch crews how not to ruin the peace and quiet being enjoyed by an anchored boat.<br />
Wow! Now that’s the classy way to operate!<br />
We chatted with her for awhile, and as she was leaving, I called the ship to say thanks for the wine. After apologizing once again, the captain said, if there’s anything else we can do for you, just call.<br />
Do you think they have any beer? whispered Jim.<br />
Shhh, I said, and told the captain, thank you for the wine, it was a nice gesture and we appreciate it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwFkKU9rxMLtNGFSflnHsoVKRPIuaTQlwjZpvE1Z0W2G8wSA3h6HDkl2Uozln1yU8eAk16JjcHQ-IXZbeXH8kM0b5UR94oFXhny_kh7rTgsBnj7ziY7gStKENst3r93ulUycTaPIoX/s1600/11+Elfin+Cove+boardwalk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwFkKU9rxMLtNGFSflnHsoVKRPIuaTQlwjZpvE1Z0W2G8wSA3h6HDkl2Uozln1yU8eAk16JjcHQ-IXZbeXH8kM0b5UR94oFXhny_kh7rTgsBnj7ziY7gStKENst3r93ulUycTaPIoX/s320/11+Elfin+Cove+boardwalk.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elfin Cove "road system."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8UjdPAuHQGsJFQqIKSCxrOiU3l2j6kkXu15XF9t4BNSdw4ygdKv8ubD0Ef4y8Ly3smIay8XwFpIvGElCLPynFyed9IzZdKZ9380lkhpYNhDerJzUjcduaXhyIJ-kjgCejUOWJNDu/s1600/12+Elfin+Cove+narrow+channel+to+back+lagoon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8UjdPAuHQGsJFQqIKSCxrOiU3l2j6kkXu15XF9t4BNSdw4ygdKv8ubD0Ef4y8Ly3smIay8XwFpIvGElCLPynFyed9IzZdKZ9380lkhpYNhDerJzUjcduaXhyIJ-kjgCejUOWJNDu/s320/12+Elfin+Cove+narrow+channel+to+back+lagoon.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Narrow channel to back lagoon.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Elfin Cove has changed considerably since the last time I visited</b> in 2006 after crossing the Gulf of Alaska.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK3gHJX9-A-Uf1QcuJ-ZI9JyklrD28C69Jp5d1WFBargzOaA1R_T9WUuneiKrKZdul0KSP4KUyt7URq3Dwd9gXhno2mWgX-gV2ATtXeGMt41PuHQPM6_S0q6UOyhIUyo028oa-rU6d/s1600/Minstrel+%2526+Idlewild+at+Elfin+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK3gHJX9-A-Uf1QcuJ-ZI9JyklrD28C69Jp5d1WFBargzOaA1R_T9WUuneiKrKZdul0KSP4KUyt7URq3Dwd9gXhno2mWgX-gV2ATtXeGMt41PuHQPM6_S0q6UOyhIUyo028oa-rU6d/s320/Minstrel+%2526+Idlewild+at+Elfin+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flashback! Karen's former Dana 24, Minstrel, peacefully nestled among the commercial fishing fleet at Elfin Cove in 2006, after a Gulf of Alaska crossing. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>What has <i>not</i> changed</b> is the humor and friendliness of its long-time residents, who made us laugh a lot.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKCNow2CJagZ1EdL3Eptl323fPCBBVwSYZU20Ju3sd5S9I5wyc6Ci8WdyGXyskuwxKQPMGssOorezQvKehwJWJs1dP7qcgJBVAqYoQpCH8-UMXMhkspd_W8VnCmpWVEY4KO9_RjWG/s1600/13+Elfin+Cove+community.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcKCNow2CJagZ1EdL3Eptl323fPCBBVwSYZU20Ju3sd5S9I5wyc6Ci8WdyGXyskuwxKQPMGssOorezQvKehwJWJs1dP7qcgJBVAqYoQpCH8-UMXMhkspd_W8VnCmpWVEY4KO9_RjWG/s320/13+Elfin+Cove+community.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few of the many homes and businesses on pilings at Elfin Cove.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk52ABzu3IQXIau_tGp-43SkJXDgHSORuH_mMK21Q3VBZWX_YzXksaDrQohAF31gK1iM1DAb20SP8KY6Ly5ebq_b7ZI4EJyy9ZQyPvl2tEwOFnQ1KM9ENgNI9AQPeYlzdKTUzcsEPW/s1600/14+Elfin+Cove+humor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk52ABzu3IQXIau_tGp-43SkJXDgHSORuH_mMK21Q3VBZWX_YzXksaDrQohAF31gK1iM1DAb20SP8KY6Ly5ebq_b7ZI4EJyy9ZQyPvl2tEwOFnQ1KM9ENgNI9AQPeYlzdKTUzcsEPW/s320/14+Elfin+Cove+humor.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lotsa wise guys among the locals.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF-3GfEjP1uI4JWjNvyRxYphM3Gr1yD225rGXKQPwXgmLTUucnYApHqywSMKXrZD2bxAvn5o5rufHngCUL6UTFSsN8_Ddump4fRZHP5x7ZmMLXzgHWeoOntR_P1tGzYelVmhePKleL/s1600/15+Elfin+Cove+wall+flowers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF-3GfEjP1uI4JWjNvyRxYphM3Gr1yD225rGXKQPwXgmLTUucnYApHqywSMKXrZD2bxAvn5o5rufHngCUL6UTFSsN8_Ddump4fRZHP5x7ZmMLXzgHWeoOntR_P1tGzYelVmhePKleL/s320/15+Elfin+Cove+wall+flowers.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice way to use extra crocs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>What has changed</b> is that there are so few of them left, because sport fishing lodges have bought up properties for sale and expanded their operations to the point of taking over the entire village, causing the population to nose-dive, the school to close, and upsetting the locals who’ve lived there for decades.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcwYmDjOP9OzWcGgwsULp5ZXUHhJBZN5R4a6OhgO2NIRTtPS2to5hS6WIzbiIb0zFGSioHPmzohZkb59vaV6cWDTghOQcjRz8HlVKyXaDR4fEhycwQJbo5QF9EwmOAGFcI8XMVckQs/s1600/16+Raven+at+Elfin+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcwYmDjOP9OzWcGgwsULp5ZXUHhJBZN5R4a6OhgO2NIRTtPS2to5hS6WIzbiIb0zFGSioHPmzohZkb59vaV6cWDTghOQcjRz8HlVKyXaDR4fEhycwQJbo5QF9EwmOAGFcI8XMVckQs/s320/16+Raven+at+Elfin+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice new transient dock at Elfin Cove, built by the State, for visitors to use for free!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Unfortunately, we did not find the sport fishing charter boat crews to be friendly</b> when we tried to start conversations, and there were hardly any commercial fishing boats in Elfin Cove where once they had been numerous (and very friendly.) In fact, as we strolled the lengthy boardwalk that serves as the unique road system through the entire town, a hand-lettered sign said, “If you don’t work for Eagle Charters, f*** off!” Except the sign spelled it out. Well okay then, we said.<br />
<br />
Due to an extra-low tide, the entire sport fishing charter fleet came out of the shallow back lagoon so they could go fishing the next morning. This is understandable, but they crowded onto the transient dock, six charter catamarans rafted up in a row very close behind us, overnight, unmanned, with three more wide boats abreast in front of us. It’s not like these low tides have never occurred before or that these businesses couldn’t plan ahead, but they apparently take over a free, state-built dock meant for transient visitors whenever there’s an extra-low tide, and good luck finding a berth.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfvy8j42agX-i11ID2qmCRRuzvNNO_nB8rIjPgDrYXdhQCY5b7jk4fGKPpmXv4hwxtziRrIQ1BfgmWtGAs4j5fHzMftCpnpDs7yvKL6Jg99Cx9wZmHoX-hbT1ZcfNvQv-FIx1dCHod/s1600/17+Raven+at+Elfin+Cove%252C+sport+fish+boats2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfvy8j42agX-i11ID2qmCRRuzvNNO_nB8rIjPgDrYXdhQCY5b7jk4fGKPpmXv4hwxtziRrIQ1BfgmWtGAs4j5fHzMftCpnpDs7yvKL6Jg99Cx9wZmHoX-hbT1ZcfNvQv-FIx1dCHod/s320/17+Raven+at+Elfin+Cove%252C+sport+fish+boats2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven surrounded and boxed in by charter boats.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Before we could try to move to the other side of the dock, we were trapped by stacks of rafted charter boats. We prayed there’d be no big winds to bend that long line of fiberglass around to hit us. Next morning at 6:30 was like the Grand Prix as they all vroomed and idled their engines for nearly an hour before several, but not all of them, took off with their guests. We were thoroughly gassed by fumes and eager to leave. Finally after some negotiating, Jim convinced the boat ahead of us to pull his remaining raft of two big boats forward a bit, and we left. Ugh, let’s get back to the wilderness, we coughed. Let’s go to Dundas Bay. Cross Sound was nice and smooth with a low ground swell from the Gulf, and the view of gigantic Brady Glacier was awe-inspiring.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ES_pPXK9ZSBsQk5WlKT0fNYcm0e0iX2fl9_Q9K77cLD2uL8xYHdjlbrBzSWCBgQCiNYITRt9p_uqlYfTOGvpKs5D7LbajhM-KWxO9lIbWTqjgpPwhlHvLsr26JX14VwcbQJgt26q/s1600/18+Dundas+NW+arm+just+before+moose+swam+across.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ES_pPXK9ZSBsQk5WlKT0fNYcm0e0iX2fl9_Q9K77cLD2uL8xYHdjlbrBzSWCBgQCiNYITRt9p_uqlYfTOGvpKs5D7LbajhM-KWxO9lIbWTqjgpPwhlHvLsr26JX14VwcbQJgt26q/s320/18+Dundas+NW+arm+just+before+moose+swam+across.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dundas Bay's northwest arm. The moose in the water was hard to see.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Dundas Bay is part of Glacier Bay National Park</b>, but you don’t need a permit to go in there, and it’s utterly… oh gosh, I’m wearing out superlatives again. Ahh, we said, this is more like it, as we slowly approached the head of the glacially-fed northwestern-most arm, this peace and quiet feels so good… hey, that tree stump is moving, get the binoculars… GOOD GRIEF, IT’S A MOOSE SWIMMING ACROSS THE FIORD, RIGHT IN FRONT OF US!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfFsB7hZYvTLX_HaJVZ_i447rq0ZLbdBm4YDWG6Rhx_AicNey-HkrQcBwjjWTN-UkOuWkwQZBoAayrUIEdPMTuXgnfLitm6x9_VPcGWQC_iwqfrxurH_Gf4uAWUgZ6_dklELKkln8h/s1600/19+Moose+emerges%252C+Dundas+Bay+NW+Arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfFsB7hZYvTLX_HaJVZ_i447rq0ZLbdBm4YDWG6Rhx_AicNey-HkrQcBwjjWTN-UkOuWkwQZBoAayrUIEdPMTuXgnfLitm6x9_VPcGWQC_iwqfrxurH_Gf4uAWUgZ6_dklELKkln8h/s320/19+Moose+emerges%252C+Dundas+Bay+NW+Arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From a tiny-looking head in the water emerged a big male moose.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The moose had seen us and we didn’t want to force it to turn back, because there must have been a good reason for it to be expending so much energy to swim nearly half a mile in frigid water. So we turned Raven around and steamed south, to let the moose cross ahead of us unimpeded. We watched it get out on the other bank, shake itself, look back at us, and unconcernedly start grazing. It was much bigger than we expected, a fully-grown bull sprouting this season’s new velvety rack. I wonder if it was trying to escape a predator? I said, and shortly afterward, Jim spied a wolf coming up the beach path the moose had just left. It was black with a white patch on its flank, trotting like a dog, sniffing the wrack line, and moving purposefully along. And not long after the wolf, Jim spotted two big brown (grizzly) bears about half a mile south, then another (possibly one of those two) on the beach opposite us, right where the wolf had been, right where the moose had been. Oh my.<br />
Glad we’re not kayak-camping tonight?<br />
Yup.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWLtj-lmWSmmfL7Lt3vhATYcBKGy1eH-rv3aBdVs7ubXYNo_wqQf63DKUO9VouA7XWsQpWJN1evyhTSdPdX7bUWFcqQxyKMuhyphenhyphenI7Lsr7oPz1I5TTT4EZskM7drkphWANMN74BaGvDH/s1600/20+Dinghy+expedition%252C+Dundas+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWLtj-lmWSmmfL7Lt3vhATYcBKGy1eH-rv3aBdVs7ubXYNo_wqQf63DKUO9VouA7XWsQpWJN1evyhTSdPdX7bUWFcqQxyKMuhyphenhyphenI7Lsr7oPz1I5TTT4EZskM7drkphWANMN74BaGvDH/s320/20+Dinghy+expedition%252C+Dundas+Bay.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pencil tip shows how far we got.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>We took the dinghy (with the 2-hp outboard) up the river at the inlet’s head</b>, on a rising tide to see if an arm of the glacier might be visible, and ended up going 2.5 miles, to where the braiding of shallow streams made it hard to see which one to take. Time to turn around or risk getting stranded.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXBb6hGWafdWNT7BNYk3mf0-nhcJjHgdxzE-Qn8TrxoTakoKf8zgYZeXMXMx4Jn7usHwtVcDDkVcnVfCYRdheubfR4gWW9bKh5UKY1Np0RNkRqrgJP5Ft-ahjaB8FgmtS0WCWd9EQI/s1600/20a+Rainforest+moss%252C+Dundas+Bay+NE+arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXBb6hGWafdWNT7BNYk3mf0-nhcJjHgdxzE-Qn8TrxoTakoKf8zgYZeXMXMx4Jn7usHwtVcDDkVcnVfCYRdheubfR4gWW9bKh5UKY1Np0RNkRqrgJP5Ft-ahjaB8FgmtS0WCWd9EQI/s320/20a+Rainforest+moss%252C+Dundas+Bay+NE+arm.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rainforest moss.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Though the glacier had receded another 2+ miles and we didn’t see it, there were flocks of migrating birds and beautiful river scenery to enjoy. On the way out, with the tide ebbing, we hit an underwater object, probably a log, and it threw the dinghy up a foot or so, but missed the prop. We bounced off it, yelled HOLY CRAP! and never saw the log surface; it’s what you’d call a “deadhead.” A misnomer, because they wake you right up. Back on the boat, where we knew it would be a minus 3-foot low tide and an interesting time to watch for critters, we looked at where we’d been and were astounded: How did we ever get the dinghy through that maze? It’s full of logs and stumps!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQAB7q35QWhS-d9QlYVy41vUN99f3sF6ruukU67j54KBJGoZJG5Bf_xHx8rtk84lwMNxwzVFg253fkkz3Jn7TulEHw1GSIwoJD8MbKKAtfaPlNFx5OZHFwx-3nTCjFviMY2pPxsBb/s1600/20b+Low+tide%252C+Dundas+bay+NW+arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQAB7q35QWhS-d9QlYVy41vUN99f3sF6ruukU67j54KBJGoZJG5Bf_xHx8rtk84lwMNxwzVFg253fkkz3Jn7TulEHw1GSIwoJD8MbKKAtfaPlNFx5OZHFwx-3nTCjFviMY2pPxsBb/s320/20b+Low+tide%252C+Dundas+bay+NW+arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Low tide where not long before we'd run the dinghy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then, Jim said: MOOSE COW AND CALF, RUNNING ACROSS THE FLATS, RIGHT WHERE WE HIT THE LOG EARLIER! We watched them run, evidently freaked out, the moose mama so aggressively protective of her calf that she charged a flock of birds, which scattered. The pair covered ground quickly, and soon Jim spotted the possible reason for their flight: a huge brown bear, right where the bull moose had swum to yesterday, lumbering along the beach, casually munching on grass.<br />
<br />
Grass? I didn’t know bears ate grass, said Jim.<br />
They’re omnivores, I said, they’ll eat anything to tide them over until the salmon start running.<br />
<br />
Then: TWO MORE MOOSE! Just north of the brown bear, a female trying to show the bull from yesterday how uninterested she was in romance, the bull following her anyway. Good luck, honey. Then: two cinnamon brown bears, a sow and her cub, just south of the big brown bear. Mama stood on her hind legs, sniffing the air, and she and her cub took off running. Boy are they fast. Males will kill cubs in order to cause the female to go back into estrus so he can mate with her. Ursine creeps. The mama and her cub, which was now sticking to her like Velcro, ran into the woods.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOanIIcnq4utLNdqajmaFNhCnC-SL206OP3HHBSa5dioddVYA98_zmtC5Qo4BA_ohr3QLHJwBCUkPHPbUQavIjlVOWZQoS4dvAA1D89jxV_-LBoZy5uYZKHK58M_ydx_KoNlkmgqOa/s1600/21+Cinnamon+bear+%2526+cub%252C+Dundas+NW+arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOanIIcnq4utLNdqajmaFNhCnC-SL206OP3HHBSa5dioddVYA98_zmtC5Qo4BA_ohr3QLHJwBCUkPHPbUQavIjlVOWZQoS4dvAA1D89jxV_-LBoZy5uYZKHK58M_ydx_KoNlkmgqOa/s320/21+Cinnamon+bear+%2526+cub%252C+Dundas+NW+arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two cinnamon-colored grizzlies, a sow and her cub.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
What is this, I said, Disneyland of the North, or Peyton Place for critters?<br />
<br />
Over several days we anchored in all 3 arms of Dundas Bay, each a little different and lovely. More bears and moose were spotted.<br />
I just saw a hoary marmot, I said.<br />
Jim: How’d you know it was horny?<br />
Hoary. Nyuk, nyuk.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfx5QjDOr20GYb3gvVx8FDS0chX_ki2Uw3O4x6TavuU1_NyHvIPucm9b4QQAGNEXFKAUdKyPcnNjbmFMdR-APeSyYdUgwOzQQZoDWxCVP1hjD3Z1BrmgT-Dw25-BN6fgTlQnG55v0D/s1600/22+Jim+bearwatching%252C+Dundas+NW+arm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfx5QjDOr20GYb3gvVx8FDS0chX_ki2Uw3O4x6TavuU1_NyHvIPucm9b4QQAGNEXFKAUdKyPcnNjbmFMdR-APeSyYdUgwOzQQZoDWxCVP1hjD3Z1BrmgT-Dw25-BN6fgTlQnG55v0D/s320/22+Jim+bearwatching%252C+Dundas+NW+arm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim bear-watching.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Reluctantly after a few days, we left Dundas Bay to cross Icy Strait again,</b> to visit Gull Cove, where Port Townsend friends said we must visit. Two separate lodges invited us in and we had a tour, tea, and some good conversation. Dennis and Peggy from South Pass Outfitters are originally from Port Townsend.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi22GDmOAsgjh0bIgCVUQaXUma89ufImLPXzLITMqI9K1hG1itGPKE4mJ-iNiQ2z5TyydzDgJuE3-XAyceHOChnhTgAde0Wgpy8iA-CgjD2KJCFZm21pA7EBiE0zaRpSPW470uE6WNH/s1600/22a+Tug+w+big+barge+in+fog%252C+South+Inian+Pass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi22GDmOAsgjh0bIgCVUQaXUma89ufImLPXzLITMqI9K1hG1itGPKE4mJ-iNiQ2z5TyydzDgJuE3-XAyceHOChnhTgAde0Wgpy8iA-CgjD2KJCFZm21pA7EBiE0zaRpSPW470uE6WNH/s320/22a+Tug+w+big+barge+in+fog%252C+South+Inian+Pass.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look how the fog plays tricks on the eye - this is a very large container barge being pulled by a tug to its left. Can't see the tug? We couldn't either, but we spoke with it on the radio. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Wanting more wilderness time after our brief visit</b>, we went to the head of Idaho Inlet, named for the steamer that ran aground and was wrecked because its captain was told this was a short cut to Sitka, and he’d believed it. About a mile south of Gull Cove, I saw something that looked like a small whale (blowhole, portions of its back near the surface,) but the water around it was turquoise, which didn’t make sense. Then it blew. WHALE! I said, but it’s not the usual coloring. Then it arched its white back and dived. A humpback. Possibly a juvenile. A white whale? The water around that whale was turquoise because the light coloring of the whale was showing through it. Holy mackerel.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2Tf8KV9iZMheYr8FxOsE02Oat7tMCh3OCpZC8WYS-MxDDP-bKUZFoucacfk-ccMQ5vyLPt7m0cD3FcP6HYSiLY8tf9RYpu-FrFJQP1P-2xKiq6N8mwN0qGYrFDw3ID9Cp2E2GOvV/s1600/23+Looking+for+the+white+whale+in+fog.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2Tf8KV9iZMheYr8FxOsE02Oat7tMCh3OCpZC8WYS-MxDDP-bKUZFoucacfk-ccMQ5vyLPt7m0cD3FcP6HYSiLY8tf9RYpu-FrFJQP1P-2xKiq6N8mwN0qGYrFDw3ID9Cp2E2GOvV/s320/23+Looking+for+the+white+whale+in+fog.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking for another glimpse of the white whale in fog and rain.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Did that whale look white to you?<br />
It sure did.<br />
Maybe it was the way the light was shining on it, or something?<br />
Maybe it’s just a light-skinned whale; an albino would be very unusual.<br />
There’s one in Australia, an albino humpback.<br />
<br />
We stopped, turned off the engine, and waited for it to surface, to try and get another look. There was a large dark humpback whale nearby that surfaced in the mist and rain, but we didn’t see the small white one again. And of course, we got no photo of it, because it all happened too fast in the fog.<br />
<br />
Idaho Inlet comes to a screeching halt around a corner; depths go from 80 feet to two feet in less than a hundred feet, and there’s still a mile of shallow water beyond that, so it must have looked deceptively deep from the wheelhouse of the steamship Idaho, for which the Evergreen Guide says it's named.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoYGeyBxLcnU-l_Sxcu87v3yhR5fgM872hRypm-wsagLZ3wioRWbMHaXOOYrAaxiAFL8u0XaNBhIopSlBudNti0erCWZLe26UaE3bH-tuT-qUWPelvfONM4MKbtkPfLqqgpSqf2uhk/s1600/24+Head+of+Idaho+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoYGeyBxLcnU-l_Sxcu87v3yhR5fgM872hRypm-wsagLZ3wioRWbMHaXOOYrAaxiAFL8u0XaNBhIopSlBudNti0erCWZLe26UaE3bH-tuT-qUWPelvfONM4MKbtkPfLqqgpSqf2uhk/s320/24+Head+of+Idaho+Inlet.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Head of Idaho Inlet at low tide.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Trying to imagine how back in the 1800s they could have run aground so quickly was easy – without a chart you’d run smack into what amounts to a vertical underwater wall, the top of which you can see above, at low tide. At high tide it's covered. When we anchored in 55 feet, we swung around to 11 feet and could see the bottom that would be bare and dry at low tide in a few hours. So we re-anchored in 75 feet. It’s worth the run to get back there for the views and the quiet.<br />
<br />
<b>From Idaho Inlet we headed for a last visit to Hoonah</b>, to see our new friends and stretch our legs, which haven’t been getting much exercise. Just past Point Adolphus, which is across from the Glacier Bay entrance, there was a big tide rip with eight humpback whales playing and feeding in it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXeR7Cuau6Pf6mdv2aAUoANbWq4vxwUY-gFJGIFdkzoT9iK9F1PYDkhO_NrJWRFTu0S3UP638BRX7sbHh0DTswwHV4qSltl9r0mgxuzt4nJr6WgweqjnlhBFzvAGI2ICnyynte0FZW/s1600/24a+Whale+dorsal+fin%252C+Pt+Adolphus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXeR7Cuau6Pf6mdv2aAUoANbWq4vxwUY-gFJGIFdkzoT9iK9F1PYDkhO_NrJWRFTu0S3UP638BRX7sbHh0DTswwHV4qSltl9r0mgxuzt4nJr6WgweqjnlhBFzvAGI2ICnyynte0FZW/s320/24a+Whale+dorsal+fin%252C+Pt+Adolphus.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Humpback whale getting ready to dive at Point Adolphus.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We stopped, turned off the engine, lowered our new hydrophone into the water, and listened for two magical hours as the whirlpools spun us around and around and the whales breathed and went voop-voop-voop underwater, and little clicks from other creatures we couldn’t identify played from our speaker.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnEoLiuClXkHLvtWyHTBXfcmE7e4iOV8xAN039_PnSDmGHqsUhVeuOaVA7kZB9zYAcvrELDGlE8K4ggXhnJz1nvfo-bQeranSScQiHP51N1yqkxxm9l8LpJman-TrH18VSdklt4J9f/s1600/29+Whales%252C+hydrophone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnEoLiuClXkHLvtWyHTBXfcmE7e4iOV8xAN039_PnSDmGHqsUhVeuOaVA7kZB9zYAcvrELDGlE8K4ggXhnJz1nvfo-bQeranSScQiHP51N1yqkxxm9l8LpJman-TrH18VSdklt4J9f/s320/29+Whales%252C+hydrophone.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our hydrophone, deployed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNkWgUc4plpClpSiiviGhnCo5LHso-l2oguGCtwZHCfWTNmV5_13CbqAEYCNtQMdH0u0TWo61YSxnEVMk0RUv7khN2J7dyGfHqxJhBTh4U6NzQyy4GOmQcXCidVwEifLnUG_U0Qb3N/s1600/25+Whale+blowhole+%2526+dorsal+fin%252C+Pt+Adolphus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNkWgUc4plpClpSiiviGhnCo5LHso-l2oguGCtwZHCfWTNmV5_13CbqAEYCNtQMdH0u0TWo61YSxnEVMk0RUv7khN2J7dyGfHqxJhBTh4U6NzQyy4GOmQcXCidVwEifLnUG_U0Qb3N/s320/25+Whale+blowhole+%2526+dorsal+fin%252C+Pt+Adolphus.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resting at the surface. Dorsal fin on left, blowhole on right. The puff of mist is from the "blow."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGm6rKfcWlNGieDYv_iW6pqenB5dk2mCmiRBdensIpOzQ1dClQ2f8ctqPylBfyGuQGaK5xSxpJzovxGYEoa7fnOKdEZ5XVexPkn_pYtvay31TrkLmRgzhJ5vOGRxglJWoGl-j-8-D/s1600/26+Whale+dives%252C+Pt+Adolphus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGm6rKfcWlNGieDYv_iW6pqenB5dk2mCmiRBdensIpOzQ1dClQ2f8ctqPylBfyGuQGaK5xSxpJzovxGYEoa7fnOKdEZ5XVexPkn_pYtvay31TrkLmRgzhJ5vOGRxglJWoGl-j-8-D/s320/26+Whale+dives%252C+Pt+Adolphus.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diving! (These photos are all of different whales.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEMWMqtC8dmRjIWq3ydr4zvv-BGqrGIZhRp7QzkKQtYgbcp8-LHBJvYKpGFzYJysJ3XCoIkp52guacTnKgDBAoP4StCUjwold9kOLvMpsLIzg87Cfxb_GLJry72bvSLSIvm58ykQnZ/s1600/27+Whale+tail%252C+Pt+Adolphus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEMWMqtC8dmRjIWq3ydr4zvv-BGqrGIZhRp7QzkKQtYgbcp8-LHBJvYKpGFzYJysJ3XCoIkp52guacTnKgDBAoP4StCUjwold9kOLvMpsLIzg87Cfxb_GLJry72bvSLSIvm58ykQnZ/s320/27+Whale+tail%252C+Pt+Adolphus.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tail lifts and slides under... ahhhh.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
It was like being hypnotized; we could have stayed out there all day, and in fact left only after the whales did because the current stopped ripping.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF12AKaUb0SRUu4oQsVxzkFv99xHV2nuB3EIOtTMzR-F_3S8tvninywsHHAK8cCQK9eczYe95UKEyITV8RmPLFMKy1VphOQOr7z_cG2BVkCzS4c98TjDsH28IPNl1JvxAHnZt0xokC/s1600/30+Hoonah+sunset+after+10+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF12AKaUb0SRUu4oQsVxzkFv99xHV2nuB3EIOtTMzR-F_3S8tvninywsHHAK8cCQK9eczYe95UKEyITV8RmPLFMKy1VphOQOr7z_cG2BVkCzS4c98TjDsH28IPNl1JvxAHnZt0xokC/s320/30+Hoonah+sunset+after+10+PM.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoonah sunset just after 10:00 pm.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaVsy1oc2ER96nEYAFIpw7kc6D1gmEn07pKITowgH3CnL67MzAVVCpdFHUdvVcEi8ieo7yfMA6c2PpaRrDoUyB7cSBaj4Z4mAtXDbP5t48Uhsymw-iJc0i_htTqy7iBmRok8soZgjO/s1600/31+Puffin+for+Jesus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaVsy1oc2ER96nEYAFIpw7kc6D1gmEn07pKITowgH3CnL67MzAVVCpdFHUdvVcEi8ieo7yfMA6c2PpaRrDoUyB7cSBaj4Z4mAtXDbP5t48Uhsymw-iJc0i_htTqy7iBmRok8soZgjO/s320/31+Puffin+for+Jesus.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We were tied up next to this boat, which was across the deck from a fishing boat called Legal Tender, and down the dock were the Happy Hooker and our favorite, the Village Idiot. These Tlingits have a fine sense of humor!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLBIx0C8oq-QKNYKmOKsPy_NW1BAFps_IPmW7jzUCOnxVutJJtc6MVx-TPj4yG7bQSh7Bofl26UF_VtQwLoGvN0wB1G3nZGoogIGs20GfzP0TdG0UHwZuQVNebXWlchPLW3r3P_88c/s1600/32+Stove+garden%252C+Hoonah.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLBIx0C8oq-QKNYKmOKsPy_NW1BAFps_IPmW7jzUCOnxVutJJtc6MVx-TPj4yG7bQSh7Bofl26UF_VtQwLoGvN0wB1G3nZGoogIGs20GfzP0TdG0UHwZuQVNebXWlchPLW3r3P_88c/s320/32+Stove+garden%252C+Hoonah.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great garden idea for all you folks with an extra stove.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Needing another wilderness fix after our Hoonah visit,</b> and needing a salmon, we trolled, caught 3 and watched in dismay as every one of them slipped the barbless hook. I hummed, “There’s a Plaice For Us,” but wrong species, so no luck. We headed deep into the fiord past Hoonah and found an almost completely enclosed lagoon. Jim set the crab pot and said, let’s go for a hike, there’s a rough portage trail at the far end of the next lagoon, that leads to Tenakee Inlet.<br />
Good idea!<br />
On the way in:<br />
You know how to use that can of bear spray, right? I asked.<br />
Yes, said Jim. Then: Are you sure you want to do this? It’s good bearbitat in here.<br />
Bearbitat! Great word!<br />
So what do you think?<br />
Oh why not, we can make lots of noise and they won’t bother us, right?<br />
Right.<br />
Bears are supposed to run away from humans, right?<br />
Right.<br />
We dinghied ashore, beached and secured our little craft, and walked about a hundred feet across some rocks.<br />
Um, Jim? I stopped. Did you see this? You almost stepped in it.<br />
What is it, he said.<br />
It’s the biggest pile of bear poop I’ve ever seen in my life, I said. It’s twice as big as any ones I’ve seen. And it’s fresh.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61t4EIFJ40aNhECOgpDi_RubehP2EsRsnk3SD6wyWWZ-WOjDLOSikE_szL6vnYTxHsWo_ZLE5ar4Gmiqn-pG87YtXvuAzX2PxeUG4EjraYQeJEIxQKxQ1Oi_FyPkmjOdWpEEaSFqF/s1600/33+Karen+finds+enormous+pile+of+bear+poop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61t4EIFJ40aNhECOgpDi_RubehP2EsRsnk3SD6wyWWZ-WOjDLOSikE_szL6vnYTxHsWo_ZLE5ar4Gmiqn-pG87YtXvuAzX2PxeUG4EjraYQeJEIxQKxQ1Oi_FyPkmjOdWpEEaSFqF/s320/33+Karen+finds+enormous+pile+of+bear+poop.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen points to an enormous pile of bear poop. We took a close-up, but honestly, it's just a big pile of poop.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Fresh, huh?<br />
Yeah, maybe from this morning.<br />
Jim nudged it with his foot. It’s all made of grass, he said.<br />
Yeah, I said. The salmon aren’t running yet.<br />
Hm, said Jim.<br />
<br />
The horseflies stopped buzzing and the air went eerily still, just like in the movie <i>The Good, The Bad and The Ugly</i>, when Clint Eastwood stares and says, “It’s no joke, it’s a rope, Tuco. Now I want you to put your head in it.”<br />
<br />
Sweetie, I said, this is just a hypothetical question, but do we want to encounter a carnivore with a rectum this large when it’s had no meat for awhile?<br />
Let’s call it good and get out of here, said Jim.<br />
Yeah, I rationalized. We hiked a hundred feet to get here, and we’ll hike a hundred feet back to the dinghy. At least it’s something.<br />
Right.<br />
<br />
The two crabs we caught were delicious.<br />
<br />
Leaving the lagoon at Port Frederick the next day, we trolled for salmon (skunked again) and as we left Port Frederick to enter Icy Strait, found the wind picking up and raising some seas. These are big seas for so little wind, said Jim.<br />
Should we go back?<br />
I dunno, it seems like a long way.<br />
Yeah, I said. But we’re going to have to tack across the Strait to get to our next anchorage.<br />
We ordered the millpond. I guess they misplaced the order.<br />
I guess we may as well keep going, right?<br />
Right.<br />
<br />
Wham! Bash! Discomfort again, though not as bad as that day on Frederick Sound. Once we turned east to get back on our course, a pod of about six Dall’s porpoises surfed our bow wave and darted all around Raven for more than 15 minutes, which is an unusually long time. What a delight to see them. Seas increased until they were almost the size of the ones we’d encountered in Frederick Sound. In late afternoon we pulled gratefully into Swanson anchorage in the Couverden Islands at the northeast corner of Icy Strait.<br />
<br />
Sometime, said Jim, we ought to go out and turn back, just for practice, so we know how to do it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6KREmiILS30nGA76JP3qwBd6OdEGD7eMA8mifqDk8eJBJ-nPMUGHc3ZeE1ntLZe8rsZiA3vFjkbiCUSBy9S9tlTwrLM-kByrjNAJYvfqMNl6iFicaQwECBSJxajVgWDIHZgmRzdJA/s1600/34+Huge+Dungeness+crab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6KREmiILS30nGA76JP3qwBd6OdEGD7eMA8mifqDk8eJBJ-nPMUGHc3ZeE1ntLZe8rsZiA3vFjkbiCUSBy9S9tlTwrLM-kByrjNAJYvfqMNl6iFicaQwECBSJxajVgWDIHZgmRzdJA/s320/34+Huge+Dungeness+crab.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now THAT'S a crab! This huge Dungeness was too big for us to finish in one meal.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The colds hit us pretty hard after that, and we left Swanson anchorage to spend two nights at anchor on the shoal just south of Horse Island, across from Auke Bay, before arriving in Juneau.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLfk8-Bckq8HBLXTAenhBnddFYjOJ7WD54-3l9aE40evZQ-O-1uW11PRTb1B4uPlcJY9M_rTZ4TM-wFKZ9ObIM5A2qW8aomK21_Y16rPTffGefU1rxc5TcUkgRhu0Z1jnXDbVgJJB4/s1600/35+N+tip+of+Admiralty+Island%252C+heading+toward+Juneau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLfk8-Bckq8HBLXTAenhBnddFYjOJ7WD54-3l9aE40evZQ-O-1uW11PRTb1B4uPlcJY9M_rTZ4TM-wFKZ9ObIM5A2qW8aomK21_Y16rPTffGefU1rxc5TcUkgRhu0Z1jnXDbVgJJB4/s320/35+N+tip+of+Admiralty+Island%252C+heading+toward+Juneau.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lighthouse at tip of Mansfield Peninsula, north end of Admiralty Island, home of skedillions of brown bears.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We’ll stay here at Harris harbor for a few days, get in a hike or two, reprovision, then start moving south via the glaciers at Tracy Arm, then to Frederick Sound, and, weather permitting, the western (Gulf) side of Kosciusko Island and Prince of Wales Island. Our itinerary may take us for longer periods to places where there’s no cell signal or internet, so we will write again when we can.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4L2FI7OE9FS5pFTU8Cdf5IfuF07rLETOapNY5UUFaUc1YcWyjYw9IfJFT_PnZ5o6rtAmhovlWoWv3kBycnlpdpMO7KXts1D7ep6SIbXlpFPywwudxbRVSugzgclAwK6QDiL9_Rum/s1600/36+Jim+rows+under+rainbow%252C+Horse+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4L2FI7OE9FS5pFTU8Cdf5IfuF07rLETOapNY5UUFaUc1YcWyjYw9IfJFT_PnZ5o6rtAmhovlWoWv3kBycnlpdpMO7KXts1D7ep6SIbXlpFPywwudxbRVSugzgclAwK6QDiL9_Rum/s320/36+Jim+rows+under+rainbow%252C+Horse+Island.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzMHpXqMFXMv6V326fNQAiJQsOIFtYVxDYBlpvUjB1cUffmP_3PfqSODwWx-e9AA7gfvJDmYFLqQQf0Radr24Dab0vpMhaHPDj6Eurk-iqQwAYkCuLv1gPbFLNsPdM91srA4IWcSpU/s1600/37+Sunset%252C+Horse+Island+anchorage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzMHpXqMFXMv6V326fNQAiJQsOIFtYVxDYBlpvUjB1cUffmP_3PfqSODwWx-e9AA7gfvJDmYFLqQQf0Radr24Dab0vpMhaHPDj6Eurk-iqQwAYkCuLv1gPbFLNsPdM91srA4IWcSpU/s320/37+Sunset%252C+Horse+Island+anchorage.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-36969774397530667822018-06-09T20:30:00.000-07:002018-06-09T20:30:26.555-07:00Tales from Glacier Bay<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZJrDeia0pjt8KnYVZ6osk8-MPPHEojSEsLOjpD-wgrRq_0UkM89vLI4BtUvIXoLIJm1qXJp3fdEv4x3kWuX9iPJUZX0d-fsxhqz2ybM_yfKsK50f52Eucck6pKGtuzVmO7emRwIVf/s1600/1+Raven%252C+Karen+kayaking%252C+Reid+Inlet2%252C+low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZJrDeia0pjt8KnYVZ6osk8-MPPHEojSEsLOjpD-wgrRq_0UkM89vLI4BtUvIXoLIJm1qXJp3fdEv4x3kWuX9iPJUZX0d-fsxhqz2ybM_yfKsK50f52Eucck6pKGtuzVmO7emRwIVf/s320/1+Raven%252C+Karen+kayaking%252C+Reid+Inlet2%252C+low+res.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven anchored near Reid Glacier, Karen kayaking nearby.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We are spending a night at the National Park Service’s Glacier
Bay Lodge</b> after 8 days exploring the fabulous Glacier Bay.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOsgxedUBGXoeBU9t0-FPOdCJqdxgglcAG4Vw_Vj973DRglYbqJZ_DCU6Fy2lSy02QluIbqu_iNLbZFwl1F5eGOIBL6es8K3Z9uPh26E5IfzyJ4OSG4CidHi1odOD5rz8ApLKDhFwL/s1600/2+View+from+Blue+Mouse+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOsgxedUBGXoeBU9t0-FPOdCJqdxgglcAG4Vw_Vj973DRglYbqJZ_DCU6Fy2lSy02QluIbqu_iNLbZFwl1F5eGOIBL6es8K3Z9uPh26E5IfzyJ4OSG4CidHi1odOD5rz8ApLKDhFwL/s320/2+View+from+Blue+Mouse+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of glacier atop Mt Bertha from Blue Mouse Cove.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc5WoezXgFmpb2LnAkhvF0EgLOdaemGhlP82yvFD2EeNeSDCEZD0mKkdYTHGjAcVvDs4aU-2eI4mcQjku4SMNod8Ace4zMjfkdwkB47zju_SEyWw2RG8NYhSFzHh3VRVSX2wCMonL7/s1600/3+Xunaa+Shuka+Hit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc5WoezXgFmpb2LnAkhvF0EgLOdaemGhlP82yvFD2EeNeSDCEZD0mKkdYTHGjAcVvDs4aU-2eI4mcQjku4SMNod8Ace4zMjfkdwkB47zju_SEyWw2RG8NYhSFzHh3VRVSX2wCMonL7/s320/3+Xunaa+Shuka+Hit.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We spent an hour with the master carvers who designed and carved all the totem poles and panels for the new Xunaa Shuka Hit, or Huna Tribal House, at Bartlett Cove.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">From Hoonah, that
wonderful Tlingit community</b> across Icy Strait from Glacier Bay, we went
fishing outside Flynn Cove and got skunked again. But hope springs eternal, and
Jim had two halibut rigs that were given to him by a pair of fishermen in Hoonah that he’d befriended, plus he’d bought a piece of gear they told him about, for
catching herring to use as bait. It sounds too good to be true that you can
drop a single line of 6 little orange-beaded herring hooks in the water and
pull up six herring a minute later, but it’s true. Jim got 12 herring in a
couple of minutes, right off the boat at the Hoonah dock. We were pretty
excited about that. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I asked, do you think we might end up eating the bait? Pickled
herring is popular in Sweden, and I have some vinegar.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
No, he said, I want to catch a halibut.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSmve5lzAQ_l1YHSIoVMEmG3SWOodENVp7d2lEdFqbWZ4W1RyriUj3W87NZ3nzkpMCjrsG9S51REHbEctpNsYj1bUAkRZfozru7A9VFl26olaWvyVPK-sgU590_jOxtQTALHyRk4Z5/s1600/4+Herring+fishin%2527%252C+Hoonah.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSmve5lzAQ_l1YHSIoVMEmG3SWOodENVp7d2lEdFqbWZ4W1RyriUj3W87NZ3nzkpMCjrsG9S51REHbEctpNsYj1bUAkRZfozru7A9VFl26olaWvyVPK-sgU590_jOxtQTALHyRk4Z5/s320/4+Herring+fishin%2527%252C+Hoonah.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishing for herring.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now you know, if you’ve been following this blog, that our
fishing prowess (we once baited a crab trap with a pepperoni stick) is not <i>yet</i> world-class.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7kVYRboNh-RNHjnmlnlO_fkBbZ30lZoRsEjufRLcj7icy3OYVeYfwj3nFESWcoCLv1QFM0ZMTi2RPgILUaYAOapZy-XPHm-96CGvKRwb_vEfu1qkMAVsrVGf-loiSGoOIx58oyMK/s1600/5+Herring%252C+Hoonah.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7kVYRboNh-RNHjnmlnlO_fkBbZ30lZoRsEjufRLcj7icy3OYVeYfwj3nFESWcoCLv1QFM0ZMTi2RPgILUaYAOapZy-XPHm-96CGvKRwb_vEfu1qkMAVsrVGf-loiSGoOIx58oyMK/s320/5+Herring%252C+Hoonah.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Herring in bucket.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, when Jim baited the big halibut hook with a nice fat
herring and we anchored outside Flynn Cove, 10 miles west of Hoonah, in 150
feet of water where the fishermen said to, and dropped it to the bottom, we
were certain this would be our big, world-class moment. Excitement overcame us after half an
hour, and we brought up the hook… empty. Another herring, another half hour
soak, same results. Hmmm. Some skilled nibbly fish lips down there.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Next morning we arose
at 4:30 am and got underway for Glacier Bay.</b> Cruise ships come and go a lot
in these waters, and I could not help humming the theme from Love Boat, which,
at five am before coffee, is not the earworm you want, so after coffee I
switched to Java Jive. Upon arriving in Bartlett Cove and attending the
required orientation with the friendly Park Rangers, Jim got a WiFi signal at
the Lodge and watched a YouTube video on how to catch a halibut. Turns out you
need to wrap some line around the bait. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
All tangled up like that? I asked. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Supposedly it’ll work, said Jim.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRfnUc8CNvPY056Y8BK7mBhdahDGkX6aNEFAvru3YBwBD48XMJeYjCO1yfY4b2hopJ3JGdY0-y7bNQx3q2pTOz-6cBZjJu8y8gx2No07eM0nIz5CaMtgcO_u71rCgY_-07tSpRx8oU/s1600/6+Raven+at+Bartlett+Cove+Dock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRfnUc8CNvPY056Y8BK7mBhdahDGkX6aNEFAvru3YBwBD48XMJeYjCO1yfY4b2hopJ3JGdY0-y7bNQx3q2pTOz-6cBZjJu8y8gx2No07eM0nIz5CaMtgcO_u71rCgY_-07tSpRx8oU/s320/6+Raven+at+Bartlett+Cove+Dock.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven at Bartlett Cove.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWJh6bcw25HazCBlz-5x0ReCHffw52xrnYydxWBPFKJ1Yk39cvD97Nml7EadlXFhVjr6tFfuoHeIwPaGczqysIGnIhyphenhyphenI2VoP92jIflgj85SfTsoXpm1epHpXN1qmprcJUBoQIhYRWE/s1600/7+Porcupine%252C+Bartlett+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWJh6bcw25HazCBlz-5x0ReCHffw52xrnYydxWBPFKJ1Yk39cvD97Nml7EadlXFhVjr6tFfuoHeIwPaGczqysIGnIhyphenhyphenI2VoP92jIflgj85SfTsoXpm1epHpXN1qmprcJUBoQIhYRWE/s320/7+Porcupine%252C+Bartlett+Cove.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porcupine, Bartlett Cove. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We set off to find a halibut.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAQ70yTeMD-I0a6T7Dud2guDQZ_L6wbAcJKaZVJqzG98k-bOG2cn94NAxoE6O1xxT6_Ttn2tUur9EjzZK28P1jykgR5JCI7bV_HKGyR9gizjPT-TTMoq9WcEpe85GBPJQSRi_BvARF/s1600/7+Heading+up+Glacier+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAQ70yTeMD-I0a6T7Dud2guDQZ_L6wbAcJKaZVJqzG98k-bOG2cn94NAxoE6O1xxT6_Ttn2tUur9EjzZK28P1jykgR5JCI7bV_HKGyR9gizjPT-TTMoq9WcEpe85GBPJQSRi_BvARF/s320/7+Heading+up+Glacier+Bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Northbound in Glacier Bay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Just past Sitakaday Narrows</b> where the current runs at 5
knots, we pulled into a spot recommended by the fishermen, anchoring in about
130 feet of water just north of Young Island. This would be a good place for
catching small halibut, they said. “Chicken” halibut are generally around 20
pounds, the perfect size so you have enough for several meals and nothing is
wasted. But you want to fish for them at around 100 feet deep.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A few minutes go by as Jim fishes from the stern, tailgate
open. The wind picks up.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: Um, Sweetie, the anchor is dragging.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: Just a few more minutes.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me, gently nudging: With a scope of only two to one in 130
feet of water and the wind picking up like this, we are traveling toward shore
at between a quarter and a half a knot. (This, I knew, would rouse him.)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: It’s okay, we can keep fishing.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me, realizing he’s lost his mind: Sweetie, the boat is
turning in a circle. The bow is slowly going downwind now, the anchor rode is going
underneath us, and if we turn all the way around in a 360, the fishing gear,
which is on the bottom, will snag our anchor rode.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: It’s okay.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Note to readers: when you’re dragging gently but inexorably toward
the rocks in a bajillion-square mile wilderness where not two hours ago the
Park Rangers said you’re really on your own out there and don’t expect help
right away, and when you hear your Significant Bother saying don’t worry about
it, it’s not quite time for a full Defcon4 response, but you might as well go
ahead and start thinking about one. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC4QMBkeyf1Nas___J0hksyiokts5dwxs6k2-ZRHSsaObvPg37yLKO9ycrjELRDq-Ap_U0p9aYJJQcvwMnZ-ZBE7NY4vixX6NBON5jddfQ13H33kZAwnN5YYlqfnwJrwGICd4zro-x/s1600/Lost+his+mind.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC4QMBkeyf1Nas___J0hksyiokts5dwxs6k2-ZRHSsaObvPg37yLKO9ycrjELRDq-Ap_U0p9aYJJQcvwMnZ-ZBE7NY4vixX6NBON5jddfQ13H33kZAwnN5YYlqfnwJrwGICd4zro-x/s320/Lost+his+mind.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Feeling rather grumpy, I say nothing and head for the
wheelhouse, where I turn the helm hard to port to see if that’ll keep the boat
from doing a 360 to starboard as we drag, so that the fool at the upper end of
the fishing gear can keep fishing for anything foolish enough to bite the lower
end. I’m praying my little wheel trick will work and we won’t have to spend
time trying to pick a large barbed circle hook out of the anchor rode in order to
keep it from jamming the windlass, while the rest of the ground tackle hangs
uselessly from the bow as we drift toward the rocks. Yes, it was a slow drift
and yes I have a vivid imagination, but dragging anchor makes almost any sailor
nervous, unless of course you happen to encounter one afflicted with a fishing
disorder. The whole thing, with me quietly stifling my objections, was like a
scene from a spaghetti western, where the female character says, DARLING, DON’T
ROB THAT STAGE COACH, and the male character goes, IT’S WHAT WE MEN DO, and the
woman goes, THEN I’LL HELP COUNT THE MONEY. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAsBX24dbe3tD-ai3x1C8BEgun7EdKPUN6djXs2nu4uWiswrHCdHVm6J-4Abb-JyvwIkr2dH3SZPRau4jZMIF3hKpKo8nUEtFa4Ut4Z3dsY7cSH00RbixdC6Hiumfw3y-Ee0miMOSE/s1600/fishing+addiction.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAsBX24dbe3tD-ai3x1C8BEgun7EdKPUN6djXs2nu4uWiswrHCdHVm6J-4Abb-JyvwIkr2dH3SZPRau4jZMIF3hKpKo8nUEtFa4Ut4Z3dsY7cSH00RbixdC6Hiumfw3y-Ee0miMOSE/s320/fishing+addiction.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: I got a bite.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me, imagining another 2-pound rockfish for all this worry
and effort, muttering: What. Everrrr. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: NO! I really got a bite!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me, walking back to the stern: Doesn’t look like it’s a very
big fi… OHMYGOD LOOK AT THAT ROD BEND! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim cranks the reel in a titanic effort, and suddenly I can
see the fish and it’s HUGE!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: GET THE NET READY!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
ME: I SEE IT! I SEE IT!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: GET THE NET READY!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me: GOOD THING WE BOUGHT A NET!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: NOW! NOW!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I scoop the fish. OH WOW!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: NO! LIFT IT STRAIGHT UP!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
ME: I AM!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I lift. The fish jumps right out of the net. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I SAID LIFT IT STRAIGHT UP!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I DID! I’m thinking, good grief, I WAS lifting it JUST like
he said, and it still jumped out! I want to yell, IF THIS FISH GETS AWAY IT’S
NOT MY FAULT! But the big fish is going wild now, swimming under the boat and
every which way as Jim struggles with the rod like a Hemingway hero. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTUdq0Qd9cU_0DsvUmr33DiByiI-Svq4rKpTw188VldLUuR5uoOEbBLNVHCZI0YzkEZb5Gp92nYayw4jm9xq7AVolTQmh1v-kag7iHP_p7UPRqVqskeTVI9_zegHoPM1cQ8qjeKHQ_/s1600/10+View+thru+binoculars%252C+Glacier+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTUdq0Qd9cU_0DsvUmr33DiByiI-Svq4rKpTw188VldLUuR5uoOEbBLNVHCZI0YzkEZb5Gp92nYayw4jm9xq7AVolTQmh1v-kag7iHP_p7UPRqVqskeTVI9_zegHoPM1cQ8qjeKHQ_/s320/10+View+thru+binoculars%252C+Glacier+Bay.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stick the iPhone lens against the binoculars and look what you get!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
GET THE NET READY, he says.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I net the fish again and he says LIFT IT STRAIGHT UP, and I
yell I AM! and he grabs the net and lifts it with an angular motion to close
the mouth of the net and not break the handle from the weight, and I yell
THAT’S NOT ACTUALLY STRAIGHT UP, but who cares anymore because Jim has just
caught the BIGGEST FREAKING FISH OF HIS LIFE and it weighs EIGHTEEN POUNDS and
we are jumping around and high-fiving and singing “Food Around the Corner” from
Looney Tunes, and I’m shrieking YOU’RE THE HALIBUT WHISPERER! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsviO0BEWF2dgKwGg-N-_g30sGnil8goYghw0RWVQlp0vMvb5UIymX-T-TaJUIWi_klWMTdD5qA3incydJn_Ts3HgbacSCU7M0VeR4mgYoCmSLIF4A9JI6EfS1RdoaEFl1V93peHNl/s1600/11+Jim%2527s+halibut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsviO0BEWF2dgKwGg-N-_g30sGnil8goYghw0RWVQlp0vMvb5UIymX-T-TaJUIWi_klWMTdD5qA3incydJn_Ts3HgbacSCU7M0VeR4mgYoCmSLIF4A9JI6EfS1RdoaEFl1V93peHNl/s320/11+Jim%2527s+halibut.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim's 18-lb halibut.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We didn’t hit the rocks</b> and we had the best fish ‘n chips of
our lives that night, at PubRaven. Jim kept saying, oh god this fish is so good,
I can’t stop eating, but even if I make myself sick it’ll be worth it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Later: Next time, said Jim, if we catch a really big one, I
want you to hold it down while I whack it. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
How do I do that?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You’ll have to lay on it, he said.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
WITH MY BODY? But I know that in the heat of the moment
there’s little doubt I’ll fling myself on a halibut and worry later about
laundering slime and applying bandages, because once you’ve had fish and chips
in beer batter on your own boat in Glacier Bay, there’s very little you won’t
do for a halibut.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVe-ZfSb06EiGipF3tVYFQf8uOEBLLpqUbpPQlkFvsvzz_q1_7FpbOtlKpt0k5zbiKzJDCpnovXb-qN8D6_nu-gvt-FttZtPyG0V4zEUY0Q521ILaWqdgWlsgQckrs6hE0qSP8UJfZ/s1600/12+Jim+filleting+halibut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVe-ZfSb06EiGipF3tVYFQf8uOEBLLpqUbpPQlkFvsvzz_q1_7FpbOtlKpt0k5zbiKzJDCpnovXb-qN8D6_nu-gvt-FttZtPyG0V4zEUY0Q521ILaWqdgWlsgQckrs6hE0qSP8UJfZ/s320/12+Jim+filleting+halibut.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim's nice new hardwood dinghy seat makes a darned good fish cleaning station. Maybe we ought to start calling it halibutt?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>With nine days to spend in Glacier Bay</b>, we set off for Blue
Mouse Cove, because we love the name, it’s a popular favorite, and we wanted to
see its famous view, but after five miles we turned into North Finger Bay
because 1, fish ‘n chips were calling, and 2, we’d been up since 4:30 that
morning and the halibut-induced adrenaline high was starting to fade. It turned
out to be a great spot for a great meal.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir6mc_2tHwtp24IxwKpa091YxDvdLmBZ2PB_92k1rRIEQ45bCYsne9XnA1kFiIcECQlBGcvuoIADFhHSf7-ngtMGnO-Fv73zMzzX6I5RHwxCMEPPdECdCXotgvvRQThuns5dYCxu61/s1600/13+Loch+Ness+Monster+in+N+Finger+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir6mc_2tHwtp24IxwKpa091YxDvdLmBZ2PB_92k1rRIEQ45bCYsne9XnA1kFiIcECQlBGcvuoIADFhHSf7-ngtMGnO-Fv73zMzzX6I5RHwxCMEPPdECdCXotgvvRQThuns5dYCxu61/s320/13+Loch+Ness+Monster+in+N+Finger+Bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">WE FOUND THE LOCH NESS MONSTER!! Bottom contours were weird in North Finger Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Underway next day, Jim discovered the engine’s water pump
was leaking, so a few miles up the bay we turned into Blue Mouse Cove to anchor
and replace it (wisely, he had thought to bring a spare.)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin01H1R0NV8ranPHobnZP5-jgE835CUzZuNwiO9hr6Rc0W89KXzYCh91tOL4uMgMwpMgh1iPQqLsWRurbwqSkMHBHoGhckZ5JHbUKOHo9tIdgdOCb6g7lY3N0zcc9PyEDdiH_h6LlL/s1600/14+Jim+repairs+engine%252C+Blue+Mouse+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin01H1R0NV8ranPHobnZP5-jgE835CUzZuNwiO9hr6Rc0W89KXzYCh91tOL4uMgMwpMgh1iPQqLsWRurbwqSkMHBHoGhckZ5JHbUKOHo9tIdgdOCb6g7lY3N0zcc9PyEDdiH_h6LlL/s320/14+Jim+repairs+engine%252C+Blue+Mouse+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim replaces the engine's water pump. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At anchor in Blue Mouse Cove, I said, it’s nice and quiet in
here. Do you see any blue mice? I’m thinking, <i>generations of mice living near a glacier eventually turn blue from the
cold, yeah, that’s plausible.</i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I thought I saw one over there, he pointed.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
That’s a rock. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Wondering how this cove got its name,</b> we were surprised to
learn in the Evergreen Guide that it was named after a… theater in New York?? Anyway,
while Jim was replacing the water pump, rendering the engine inoperable for an
hour or so, the wind picked up and started blowing a chop into the bay, making
our little spot an uncomfortable lee shore. Engine fixed, we moved across the
cove to a small indent on its north side. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4NtvIfblwEOPkahgrfLUa3cW3AI_LNv18hHDtiSB7ueLfURCVeJnt-aC4vLa1WTc4PWDVYQBSdW_eTIXRn-8pTU2R9_iJ3w7XvRxcjbHO7G7xf7tIZi1HuaBh2CD0VJz5OGLELer/s1600/15+Alpenglow+at+Blue+Mouse+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4NtvIfblwEOPkahgrfLUa3cW3AI_LNv18hHDtiSB7ueLfURCVeJnt-aC4vLa1WTc4PWDVYQBSdW_eTIXRn-8pTU2R9_iJ3w7XvRxcjbHO7G7xf7tIZi1HuaBh2CD0VJz5OGLELer/s320/15+Alpenglow+at+Blue+Mouse+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alpenglow in Blue Mouse Cove.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ahh, we said, this is ni… BEAR! BEAR! I pointed, and not
more than 200 feet from the boat was a large brown (grizzly) bear lumbering
sedately along the beach. It must have weighed 500 pounds and it had probably watched
us anchor, sniffed the fragrant fish ‘n chips air trail, and thought, <i>nope, too much effort to get out there</i>.
We watched it with binoculars, spellbound for twenty minutes as it cruised the
beach and disappeared into the woods at the far end. (And no, we didn’t get a
decent photo, we were too excited, so here’s some eco-porn, a sunset at Blue
Mouse Cove.)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG5CUnEyrioCBTPhytzTO6E4dySZE5Pq3NtrA1QQpQLT7X40xd-NwHVm5VFrQC4hfX3VhAm5ycEXFpZpj-fCi8hyphenhyphenJECJmZCgUVQh2gIcwmOSYT1j-5k8gYByMsnKsQGXOPjdFVBc6p/s1600/16+Sunset%252C+Blue+Mouse+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG5CUnEyrioCBTPhytzTO6E4dySZE5Pq3NtrA1QQpQLT7X40xd-NwHVm5VFrQC4hfX3VhAm5ycEXFpZpj-fCi8hyphenhyphenJECJmZCgUVQh2gIcwmOSYT1j-5k8gYByMsnKsQGXOPjdFVBc6p/s320/16+Sunset%252C+Blue+Mouse+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eco-porn.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Around ten o’clock the wind and chop switched around again</b>,
making our new quiet spot an uncomfortable lee shore, so we moved <i>again</i>, back to our old quiet spot. The
sun sets after ten and it doesn’t begin to get dark up here until after eleven,
so moving was relatively easy, and a good night’s sleep is worth the effort.
The trick is to find a spot shallow enough to anchor in so you don’t have to
let out all your anchor rode, which could cause you to swing around and hit the
beach if the wind changes. Also, tides here can reach 25 feet. We now look at
50 feet as a “shallow” depth and 65 feet as “reasonable.” Our old seven-to-one favored
ratio of anchor scope has gone out the window, and we now see three to one as
okay in decent weather and four to one as pretty darned good. Letting out 270
feet of anchor rode is getting to be normal.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Next day was a big one</b>. We left Blue Mouse and motored all
the way up Tarr Inlet to see the Great Pacific and Marjorie Glaciers. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghtJnMNzsCt27rQGW2OS43XlQ2LuC-OVr07HwdNmpZ4ryPkiXFQVNoKkEm8aR5qvc3f0APPZNY4bVI4yUhd2I2ltm3PmK1OCAtAZP1EhKM0lWzGejD-8t2Muz_jj4pQHVl4yg_Dzo6/s1600/17+Marjorie+Glacier+from+Raven+wheelhouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghtJnMNzsCt27rQGW2OS43XlQ2LuC-OVr07HwdNmpZ4ryPkiXFQVNoKkEm8aR5qvc3f0APPZNY4bVI4yUhd2I2ltm3PmK1OCAtAZP1EhKM0lWzGejD-8t2Muz_jj4pQHVl4yg_Dzo6/s320/17+Marjorie+Glacier+from+Raven+wheelhouse.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amazing Marjorie Glacier, from Raven's wheelhouse.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg10KZeclMg_43F-89QfhTvjZinSSLbLL5kqgma9NuHnHvrdm-S0QqM3_hjtkTw14EE1zTj-wjIGp9xElFPkW1YW7ARn_yS1K0-Ztz_UXQGHX8-YV76SYMWVYhzc94pGNVE34PXa-vc/s1600/18+Marjorie+Glacier%2527s+upper+reaches.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg10KZeclMg_43F-89QfhTvjZinSSLbLL5kqgma9NuHnHvrdm-S0QqM3_hjtkTw14EE1zTj-wjIGp9xElFPkW1YW7ARn_yS1K0-Ztz_UXQGHX8-YV76SYMWVYhzc94pGNVE34PXa-vc/s320/18+Marjorie+Glacier%2527s+upper+reaches.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper reaches of Marjorie Glacier.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFCTeSN734WjqwiQB9PH3brSYHYFmlAYCBe8wnBNaRLt_T94duGhcFHovNJkpFbsjnjPfxnUzetXDdrsueRo1eigM3yFApw-0kXPO1nB8D0PoDXgEnPshZe8pFz7uZiNzWoKWzG2YQ/s1600/20+Great+Pacific+Glacier%252C+Tarr+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFCTeSN734WjqwiQB9PH3brSYHYFmlAYCBe8wnBNaRLt_T94duGhcFHovNJkpFbsjnjPfxnUzetXDdrsueRo1eigM3yFApw-0kXPO1nB8D0PoDXgEnPshZe8pFz7uZiNzWoKWzG2YQ/s320/20+Great+Pacific+Glacier%252C+Tarr+Inlet.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great Pacific Glacier.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCycO5jPSQkC0wFO0KRIwCWyRcHvy3ZpDwao65rrMWUwCqfLJClNYd5uUxX89ogGuw6DINDgPtK3WM7XdNZpFVI4aXOMn0ArIVdW8tAI02HK1-tPoj1D8Q5C32V24KBAutVnl19m7/s1600/21+Great+Pacific%2527s+seaward+end.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWCycO5jPSQkC0wFO0KRIwCWyRcHvy3ZpDwao65rrMWUwCqfLJClNYd5uUxX89ogGuw6DINDgPtK3WM7XdNZpFVI4aXOMn0ArIVdW8tAI02HK1-tPoj1D8Q5C32V24KBAutVnl19m7/s320/21+Great+Pacific%2527s+seaward+end.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of Great Pacific Glacier's seaward end. This is the legendary glacier that during the Little Ice Age in the mid 1700s, moved "as fast as a dog can run" and caused the Tlingits to flee their villages, carrying only what they were wearing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>The Park Service’s morning weather report</b> on the radio
didn’t reach us, so we called a cruise ship that was inbound for the same
destination.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Island Princess, this is the motor vessel Raven, over.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Motor vessel Raven, Island Princess. (We switched to channel
13)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Good morning Island Princess, do you have a weather report?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Yes. It’s currently blowing eight knots and misting
slightly.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim and I look at each other, like, um, we know that, is
this some sort of cruise ship humor schtick? <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Dark toward evening, followed by light tomorrow…</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Island Princess, we were hoping for a weather <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">forecast</i>, for the next few days?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Oh! Stand by please.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me to Jim: They’re really literal, aren’t they?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Island Princess came back and gave us a positively rosy
forecast. We thanked them and agreed, let’s try to spend the night in this
little spot right next to the glaciers! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDquoFe7c5kd1ZYEfyniyIltn4PhjYsqZ5Z6LrwHIGZ38-73h_6vcHhFobs8AoOdo1nASnpIszi52NtughU2FjBMcq7hGy1MNZq97XuBkawv2WdiLljse7PAFJJV98EBitN2V6h6G0/s1600/22+Kittiwakes+on+bergy+bit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDquoFe7c5kd1ZYEfyniyIltn4PhjYsqZ5Z6LrwHIGZ38-73h_6vcHhFobs8AoOdo1nASnpIszi52NtughU2FjBMcq7hGy1MNZq97XuBkawv2WdiLljse7PAFJJV98EBitN2V6h6G0/s320/22+Kittiwakes+on+bergy+bit.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-legged kittiwakes ride a bergy bit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And speaking of taking things literally, after looking at
wide and narrow channels separated by an island, I said to Jim, The shortest
route has us going inside that little island up there.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim: As long as we don’t die a fiery death…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Me. It’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">not</i> a
volcano…<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-Dd-ATclaAFcomKubwDbD5VQTT_F4sY7OeYvvTMIcbayuAWdTMzkJCi_6lxIbd3TTVU4N2mOg48PXwPwet3ESJgqYnlpORj349SbppLkukfzk_-HLR4MI_PMRHUDOPbSAJ7XRYEf/s1600/23+Iceberg+tug+and+tow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-Dd-ATclaAFcomKubwDbD5VQTT_F4sY7OeYvvTMIcbayuAWdTMzkJCi_6lxIbd3TTVU4N2mOg48PXwPwet3ESJgqYnlpORj349SbppLkukfzk_-HLR4MI_PMRHUDOPbSAJ7XRYEf/s320/23+Iceberg+tug+and+tow.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Iceberg tug and tow, one of many fantastical shapes we passed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Arriving at the terminus of Tarr Inlet where the two
glaciers are, we turned off the engine to drift and listen. BOOM! CRACK!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ0ad6p3xN_-voxUX1TNfJFHmv9nhC-ZqmVe6qbv3Ksik88tO-BAsFNazFkpSLPMJtAltkiwTj0OQ6cJAS8kydB2NHnZvo5U1SpSAV6NqXbzrQcN2Os3hBlo-aDEEX7NmYipHu7IaV/s1600/19+Marjorie+up+close.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ0ad6p3xN_-voxUX1TNfJFHmv9nhC-ZqmVe6qbv3Ksik88tO-BAsFNazFkpSLPMJtAltkiwTj0OQ6cJAS8kydB2NHnZvo5U1SpSAV6NqXbzrQcN2Os3hBlo-aDEEX7NmYipHu7IaV/s320/19+Marjorie+up+close.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marjorie Glacier up close. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>The sound of millions of tons of ice</b> moving down a mountain
is like the loudest thunder you ever heard. And when pieces fall off the front
of the glacier it’s breathtaking; you see them first, because you’re between a
quarter and a half-mile away for safety, and then you hear it once the sound
reaches you, a stupendous crashing booming echoing cannon noise. Ice drifts
through the bay, and you want to avoid those little bergy bits because it’d be
like hitting a floating rock.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvm6uqnp405jAQe18AZZGCIkaJpWKtAUWCFNyCI3W-0YcoapXJPf5lvDufia-_gWzE0M6ftDoSZaJe0DpySlH9g6HFSlWVffEH6z2jxDJGx5uWk8n5Vu9Nqrnol0YTnX1j0dCOIT99/s1600/24+A+glacier+bird%252C+Tarr+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvm6uqnp405jAQe18AZZGCIkaJpWKtAUWCFNyCI3W-0YcoapXJPf5lvDufia-_gWzE0M6ftDoSZaJe0DpySlH9g6HFSlWVffEH6z2jxDJGx5uWk8n5Vu9Nqrnol0YTnX1j0dCOIT99/s320/24+A+glacier+bird%252C+Tarr+Inlet.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Berg shaped like a bird's head, Tarr Inlet.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
By “little” we mean anything from a hidden six inch piece of
ice, which sounds like it’s going to bust a hole through the hull even when you
hit it at low speed, to school bus sized; these bergy bits are very unstable
and tend to roll over a lot. The Evergreen Guide tells a story about a US
Geological Survey boat in the 1930s, where, we kid you not, six crewmembers
donned swimsuits and climbed aboard an iceberg. The berg rolled over and two of
them died. So don’t mess with icebergs.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After the Island Princess spent at least an hour in front of
the glaciers, it was our turn. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Eu_nqPElPF7rcOeDulOCEmXn5YCTa8vj8T8AgYQ-W9bcsGt2XdSEx-Y1M1xUI8hDCkWvIVrUp7kOcVvrsutSLVQgOUA5-xuUliArTcpqEDojaD2CHgnBVObokmhh_cHG7JxOuJF6/s1600/25+Cruise+ship+crowds+the+glacier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Eu_nqPElPF7rcOeDulOCEmXn5YCTa8vj8T8AgYQ-W9bcsGt2XdSEx-Y1M1xUI8hDCkWvIVrUp7kOcVvrsutSLVQgOUA5-xuUliArTcpqEDojaD2CHgnBVObokmhh_cHG7JxOuJF6/s320/25+Cruise+ship+crowds+the+glacier.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First cruise ship crowds the glacier.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We spent about twenty minutes sitting in front of the very
active Marjorie Glacier.</b> The Great Pacific Glacier next to it terminates on
land in a muddy mound, but it was the awesome glacier that carved out Glacier
Bay and drove the Tlingits from their villages during the Little Ice Age in the
1700s. We noticed another cruise ship inbound fast for the spot we were in.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjol8MlZmlbASF3144KEeDrElniyXkrLtWIwnfgC4jmGkhBc-3eE0Xwvv6yFAOJeqaTegtUuilxUnI3dcaVVQdpLMr4HVhWIRxSbBKCLz2Amb20biNv2pUs3auqRu0uuyPYKssZ_18t/s1600/26+Star+Princess+turns+toward+us.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjol8MlZmlbASF3144KEeDrElniyXkrLtWIwnfgC4jmGkhBc-3eE0Xwvv6yFAOJeqaTegtUuilxUnI3dcaVVQdpLMr4HVhWIRxSbBKCLz2Amb20biNv2pUs3auqRu0uuyPYKssZ_18t/s320/26+Star+Princess+turns+toward+us.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Second cruise ship turning toward us. They didn't see us.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our glacier visit was going to be a short one.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzZ_CK9lShPPOvFcoJksMgjrYoFQ7Iu2tUR6BPf4py_Atd45RgGCrpqZSUF1gLxyY6Rp_qDGW8gXddExQnBh-6TgVGM5K7kC6BJYn0nbbUE4451cymOJZSAXKnVB2lcFjQSSMgvpWf/s1600/27+Our+20+minute+glacier+visit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzZ_CK9lShPPOvFcoJksMgjrYoFQ7Iu2tUR6BPf4py_Atd45RgGCrpqZSUF1gLxyY6Rp_qDGW8gXddExQnBh-6TgVGM5K7kC6BJYn0nbbUE4451cymOJZSAXKnVB2lcFjQSSMgvpWf/s320/27+Our+20+minute+glacier+visit.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our 20-minute glacier visit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>As the cruise ship approached</b>, the AIS told us it was doing just
under nineteen knots, then it slowed to sixteen, which is still pretty fast, and
they throw huge wakes which can get icebergs knocking into you, so we thought
it prudent to mosey over to the side near some cliffs where thousands of
kittiwakes nest so we wouldn’t be in their way. We figured there’d be room for
everyone, but as we moseyed, the cruise ship turned toward us. Uh-oh. We picked
our way through bergy bits and made progress toward the cliffs but could not go
very fast, but the cruise ship turned toward us again, crowding us and doing
eleven knots to our four. It was coming straight at us. This isn’t good, we
said, let’s call them on the radio.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Star Princess, this is the motor vessel Raven, on your
starboard bow.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Motor vessel Raven, Star Princess. Where are you?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Huh? Where are we? Oh
dear, they don’t see us… </i>Star Princess, we’re right in front of you and we
are moving as fast as we can through this ice, to get out of your way.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Raven, shall we pass port to port?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Roger, Star Princess, port to port. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Crispy, aren’t they? </i>The
ship missed us, we felt we had to leave, and they too spent at least an hour in
front of the glaciers instead of the half-hour the Park Service told us cruise
ships are allowed. But there will be other glaciers where cruise ships can’t
come, and at those we will spend as much time as we want. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So we went over to this little rocky outcrop about a mile or
so from Marjorie Glacier, a spot recommended by a charter captain we’d met at
Hoonah, (although watch out for ice, he’d said) and we anchored, figuring we’d
try to spend the night if the drifting ice didn’t come too close, and then see
the glacier early the next morning for as long as we wanted. The wildness of
this place is absolutely amazing. The roar of waterfalls and the cries of
thousands of black-legged kittiwakes nesting on the cliffs drowned out the
noise of the glaciers, and the wind picked up to 20 with gusts to probably 25
or higher, and it began to rain hard, (so much for the forecast from the Island
Princess) but we were snug and warm in the lee of that rocky outcrop, and only
had to start the engine once to move out of the way of a small berglet drifting
by. This’ll be fine, we said, the wind is keeping all the ice at the far end of
Tarr Inlet. We’ll be fine. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You go ahead and write up the blog, said Jim, I’ll be on
BergWatch. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Kind of like BayWatch, I said, but without the swimsuits?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Despite the cold rain and wind it was a lovely evening, and
I wrote for an hour as Jim quietly watched. Then, just before 9 pm, he said, I
think maybe you should come up here and look at this ice, it’s encroaching upon
us. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Encroaching?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Yeah.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinlY7ZbSjEH2g-2NEefh0JOzKsYyN3yRhEl1o_rgMYhu7OvLuhhR8gB5eflaTxTQYjH8gSk-hiDtUAZH3ZGFYowOuB__o66P-s8fGDMKvyLcqvlnstESYw1FSkSCU7hJiAudf2g3cu/s1600/28+Ice+invasion%252C+Tarr+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinlY7ZbSjEH2g-2NEefh0JOzKsYyN3yRhEl1o_rgMYhu7OvLuhhR8gB5eflaTxTQYjH8gSk-hiDtUAZH3ZGFYowOuB__o66P-s8fGDMKvyLcqvlnstESYw1FSkSCU7hJiAudf2g3cu/s320/28+Ice+invasion%252C+Tarr+Inlet.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advance bergs from the herd that chased us out of our anchorage.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
How far away is it, I asked.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We seem to be entering the bergosphere.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Seriously, got an estimate?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I think you should come look. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Knowing Jim to be rather laconic, I casually put aside my
laptop and unhurriedly stepped up into the wheelhouse, figuring hey, we’ve got
plenty of time, he doesn’t sound worried. As you may have guessed, I am
anything but laconic. HOLY CRAP! I shrieked, WE GOTTA GET OUTTA HERE! <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>How many of you saw the movie</b> The Blob when you were kids? Imagine,
instead of that creature made of thick dark molasses, one made of a wall of
icebergs, quietly sneaking up on you with the tide… going <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">upwind</i>. Yeah, these bad boys were laughing at 20+ knots of wind and
coming right at us, like Jim’s wall of foam back in Khutze Inlet but instead of
foam it’s giant ice sharks gonna trap your a$$ and grind it to smithereens. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We hoisted the anchor in record time, headed out into the thickening
murk and said, oh well hey, it’s another adventure in the cold dark wind and rain
and chop where we heroically battle the elements and try to get into a new
anchorage 12 miles away where we’ve never been, in the dark! We love adventure,
right? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>So, after a couple of hours</b> where the winds and seas turned
out to be calming down a bit and the passage wasn’t so bad after all as we took
one-hour stints at the helm, except that it was pelting down rain, we arrived
at the approach to Reid Inlet, where a nice snug anchorage and a good night’s
sleep awaited. At the last minute the seas got suddenly very rolly and
uncomfortable, and we were eager to get into harbor. Just outside the entrance to
Reid Inlet I said, I’m going to turn on the crab lights (boat headlights) so we
can see better. A couple seconds later, I shrieked, DID YOU SEE THAT?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
WHAT?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A WHALE!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
WHERE?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
RIGHT IN FRONT OF US! IT JUST DIVED! THERE IT IS AGAIN!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We stopped the boat and put the engine in neutral. A
humpback whale was swimming back and forth across the entrance, splashing and feeding
and having a great time. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Let’s just let that sink in a moment:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A whale.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At night.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Blocking the cove you so fervently wish to enter.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s right next to your boat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s bigger than your boat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And you are gonna stop and let her feed all she wants, if it
takes all night.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And you are gonna love every minute of it.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And you probably won’t get a photo, either.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As we waited, it came up several times, lunging on its side
with its mouth wide open, waving its flipper, which is quite a sight in
headlights in the dark. Isn’t this the funniest thing yet, we agreed, we’re
tired and want to get in so badly, and there’s a… oh wow, here it comes again, it’s
30 feet away! We drifted toward the entrance with our engine ticking over so it
could hear us, and made the slowest approach to an anchor spot in history. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPGvj3fYd3qPtbzRSEl_LOq2qIFqPbUU33mVKsAeb4XTAbmCtieOelx8AdzvErbVduDDIOKUUOR8qKXCeMLKpUTHYwG9x3OH8JMXqdPXrvRs5OG0g5G0JzOnK6hrN655AmBv4IxFOo/s1600/29+Raven+at+Reid+Glacier%252C+low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPGvj3fYd3qPtbzRSEl_LOq2qIFqPbUU33mVKsAeb4XTAbmCtieOelx8AdzvErbVduDDIOKUUOR8qKXCeMLKpUTHYwG9x3OH8JMXqdPXrvRs5OG0g5G0JzOnK6hrN655AmBv4IxFOo/s320/29+Raven+at+Reid+Glacier%252C+low+res.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven anchored at Reid Inlet.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>A full day of rest and play</b> followed in Reid Inlet with its
picturesque blue streaky glacier. With our new inflatable kayak we can now
launch a “fleet” and go exploring separately or together.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYyHnmLKhi42R8EUE6L5rIYkzCYjjKpny7xC8GRQgSKQDpPLvTbM47twnEAheoVgCDlAC6vuNs6uANT2Rh4GxQ2j-C9u74hskTR-lPKc9O5ZZvYC2_S3KgyEPHvEAclL0lCgs-_9kh/s1600/30+Karen+kayaking%252C+Reid+Glacier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYyHnmLKhi42R8EUE6L5rIYkzCYjjKpny7xC8GRQgSKQDpPLvTbM47twnEAheoVgCDlAC6vuNs6uANT2Rh4GxQ2j-C9u74hskTR-lPKc9O5ZZvYC2_S3KgyEPHvEAclL0lCgs-_9kh/s320/30+Karen+kayaking%252C+Reid+Glacier.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen kayaks in front of Reid Glacier.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After saying it’s almost impossible to take a bad photo
around here, Jim rowed the dinghy ashore.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji8FUjDO8Ncp2Rt_DPasbhjN9WiFwo161HMGkGFdaqUmMtL3H0t61YhctqHNGyc7YvORR-kXrZTd-AxdfBfC3280iSsaFort-ZtmaCLrVeVIdVBqoqfqBqtlGDixdkAICAKIovcclU/s1600/31+Dinghy%252C+Reid+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji8FUjDO8Ncp2Rt_DPasbhjN9WiFwo161HMGkGFdaqUmMtL3H0t61YhctqHNGyc7YvORR-kXrZTd-AxdfBfC3280iSsaFort-ZtmaCLrVeVIdVBqoqfqBqtlGDixdkAICAKIovcclU/s320/31+Dinghy%252C+Reid+Inlet.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijC4Y-ho4RDNUzy7b6tm7D8YlI6rwpgA1ZDrfqEwtNNCcW-EUXGjg3L1zfNINfzhnuVY829a8zgc90NeQ4lioFawi6uPCpeScu2oXg5fCiaB-wxo6D0H9DNGt-mhfhWhodKwsq4WZt/s1600/32+Lupines%252C+Reid+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijC4Y-ho4RDNUzy7b6tm7D8YlI6rwpgA1ZDrfqEwtNNCcW-EUXGjg3L1zfNINfzhnuVY829a8zgc90NeQ4lioFawi6uPCpeScu2oXg5fCiaB-wxo6D0H9DNGt-mhfhWhodKwsq4WZt/s320/32+Lupines%252C+Reid+Inlet.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lupines. Reid Inlet & Glacier in background.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ecd_uQ9uDvXcwr0_qDjuGz3yjrFZdYIlUquRgyht7LnXb-9CO6cec8TVkt5mDDAWvjv_XXu9jHKKrjwUmHr0DttvU1F-iEsTk3J2PCaRelpbWosb4_OQx__dU9n1UtZWowpH900g/s1600/33+Oystercatcher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ecd_uQ9uDvXcwr0_qDjuGz3yjrFZdYIlUquRgyht7LnXb-9CO6cec8TVkt5mDDAWvjv_XXu9jHKKrjwUmHr0DttvU1F-iEsTk3J2PCaRelpbWosb4_OQx__dU9n1UtZWowpH900g/s320/33+Oystercatcher.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oystercatcher.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho-SieJwFog9PMCEQrAjVytWi7qzVVaiMn4EEO6P-UcJ6o2mgeOh9hrSscWhEZUTM9C0HEPDaghpZ0CzuxW8lM2z_rjkbtXBNdlOBJNAZMLMh5egnB-VDzKMxxm2J4MMOLiwS5yFJa/s1600/34+Black-legged+kittiwake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho-SieJwFog9PMCEQrAjVytWi7qzVVaiMn4EEO6P-UcJ6o2mgeOh9hrSscWhEZUTM9C0HEPDaghpZ0CzuxW8lM2z_rjkbtXBNdlOBJNAZMLMh5egnB-VDzKMxxm2J4MMOLiwS5yFJa/s320/34+Black-legged+kittiwake.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-legged kittiwake.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I paddled the kayak a mile across the inlet to Reid Glacier,
which now calves on land so the inlet waters are ice-free.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRAnTRnWvqlH-M_5mQsWInh0qw5zNYzXQytesn1yNHeuIsWHVDTnZOYoODyAKi7QcXaJ9R9awgZdhYTcE_-dxPle6OQgzY9Y3gjp42xL0AU9nuQbOW_FzogLc_4WSCj8u5lT6Ob1bp/s1600/35+Karen+kayaking%252C+Reid+Glacier2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRAnTRnWvqlH-M_5mQsWInh0qw5zNYzXQytesn1yNHeuIsWHVDTnZOYoODyAKi7QcXaJ9R9awgZdhYTcE_-dxPle6OQgzY9Y3gjp42xL0AU9nuQbOW_FzogLc_4WSCj8u5lT6Ob1bp/s320/35+Karen+kayaking%252C+Reid+Glacier2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I came back with arms like noodles and told him, whoa,
that’s a lot further than it looks! He then paddled the kayak to the glacier,
came back all noodled and said, why didn’t you tell me how far it was to that
glacier? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Nyuk, nyuk.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvQriknA6PETL-ESoc4XfU-jkbssuKxnSXZpOeUldc0zGKCTTEE7zLj330SCDMrBjdwvrkRIlxKfJeqOhOjvGeMcrqEsuAwzhwXEo5FlJUoaTRL7rpXrz_Sx-iqgHzuUkJd9vV7epE/s1600/36+Jim+climbs+aboard%252C+Reid+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvQriknA6PETL-ESoc4XfU-jkbssuKxnSXZpOeUldc0zGKCTTEE7zLj330SCDMrBjdwvrkRIlxKfJeqOhOjvGeMcrqEsuAwzhwXEo5FlJUoaTRL7rpXrz_Sx-iqgHzuUkJd9vV7epE/s320/36+Jim+climbs+aboard%252C+Reid+Inlet.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim climbs aboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Enough with the cruise ships</b>, we decided, how do the whales
stand it? Let’s go to where the big ships are not allowed. We went up Muir Inlet
and turned left into Wachusett Inlet (the far end of Muir, along with a couple
other areas, are closed to motorized traffic to allow seals to have their pups
in peace.)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfe8PubFROh_8hUbJlZ3gZwr9mrUqHhTU5V9PXHqAPX8vlfwYJ_2pUQvqRaXurJyYX6CNmmIcKEZwhHsrT63epzViqzuEk0FkYSPNMVzw5GLRz4FUkGZYlPFWYZhoSfhZXhHT_-QYN/s1600/37a+Marjorie+calving%252C+100%2527+tour+boat+in+front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfe8PubFROh_8hUbJlZ3gZwr9mrUqHhTU5V9PXHqAPX8vlfwYJ_2pUQvqRaXurJyYX6CNmmIcKEZwhHsrT63epzViqzuEk0FkYSPNMVzw5GLRz4FUkGZYlPFWYZhoSfhZXhHT_-QYN/s320/37a+Marjorie+calving%252C+100%2527+tour+boat+in+front.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To give you an idea of the size of these glaciers, this is Marjorie Glacier calving (center) with a 90 foot tour boat in front.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Wachusett was like going back in time.</b> We anchored in 40
feet on the tongue of the glacier, which has receded but is still in sight, and
looked around, awed.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnlB3Ks6tGZ4uSu22Tx71FqQlC8TOA_wfJxTEmgkWMFMvZx-CE1sO2U69fWbYHuADMAo8H6Rvp1gky7jxblUYRICmMh1B6ALzeN7HvMoubS1-2hnUr3CZlzZo6pNU_y82sjh_09tWg/s1600/38+Anchored+on+tongue+of+Carroll+Glacier%252C+Wachusett+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnlB3Ks6tGZ4uSu22Tx71FqQlC8TOA_wfJxTEmgkWMFMvZx-CE1sO2U69fWbYHuADMAo8H6Rvp1gky7jxblUYRICmMh1B6ALzeN7HvMoubS1-2hnUr3CZlzZo6pNU_y82sjh_09tWg/s320/38+Anchored+on+tongue+of+Carroll+Glacier%252C+Wachusett+Inlet.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchored on the tongue of Carroll Glacier, Wachusett Inlet.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
According to the Park Service pamphlet this was all ice less
than 50 years ago, said Jim, we would have been encased!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Entombed!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Chilly-binned!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s positively Pleistocene, said I. Maybe we should look
for woolly mammoths?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsCxpeD9n3kjcBHdvu1A7nkCs5WoumuPpvhS8JCIYEnbA_9c4umkj2W2z1pAnbKPdnrewuI1ud2k2KDXwUSX6HWgyyMD0_J-tUgtT0woaF8CoRS6kovszumDD1O89ZDHWRB6uvMSI/s1600/39+Wachusett+Inlet%252C+%253C50+years+post-glaciation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsCxpeD9n3kjcBHdvu1A7nkCs5WoumuPpvhS8JCIYEnbA_9c4umkj2W2z1pAnbKPdnrewuI1ud2k2KDXwUSX6HWgyyMD0_J-tUgtT0woaF8CoRS6kovszumDD1O89ZDHWRB6uvMSI/s320/39+Wachusett+Inlet%252C+%253C50+years+post-glaciation.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another disgusting view of Wachusett Inlet.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We launched the fleet </b>and promptly ran both the dinghy and
the kayak aground. Whoa! The water’s so milky with glacial silt that you can’t
see the bottom in six inches! Glad we anchored Raven in 50 feet.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix6c2Lb3gJTLGVQAS3JvY4i7Q_E3ba_6Rkn0FKUCmZ2lqMJ6_dKjOqqRwIynOSgDfyCmlV_d0GbqaUV1LASt_MKTHdb4Do8K2QYHX3iBgoa3xPYe8UVJUN84aIKOStMockaIo0CcKt/s1600/40+Glacial+outwash+%2527wake%2527+behind+Raven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix6c2Lb3gJTLGVQAS3JvY4i7Q_E3ba_6Rkn0FKUCmZ2lqMJ6_dKjOqqRwIynOSgDfyCmlV_d0GbqaUV1LASt_MKTHdb4Do8K2QYHX3iBgoa3xPYe8UVJUN84aIKOStMockaIo0CcKt/s320/40+Glacial+outwash+%2527wake%2527+behind+Raven.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glacial outwash swirling in Raven's "wake" at anchor. Lots of fresh water coming off these glaciers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim explored one side of the glacial tongue while I explored
the other.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkgxhEsRlDb5M67aS9m6QEeH2_Yh4EK_wwDj5zHvd29slXcv4-M0huVyZYOamI-V8wN4_mG65y37p3lMm2QbEzIGt0pS-r1cMHFz0UbBMgVYJ0vd-RIVrCaaf0VcriMjAd_uXT_57B/s1600/41+Karen+in+dinghy%252C+Wachusett+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkgxhEsRlDb5M67aS9m6QEeH2_Yh4EK_wwDj5zHvd29slXcv4-M0huVyZYOamI-V8wN4_mG65y37p3lMm2QbEzIGt0pS-r1cMHFz0UbBMgVYJ0vd-RIVrCaaf0VcriMjAd_uXT_57B/s320/41+Karen+in+dinghy%252C+Wachusett+Inlet.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQQ0aMLGRt8QFqTLSzJXkKZpmNKzvLyhwqpIhyKzSI4jbMT9nIrnAF4vk9eubB72-SyXU5K8aPYxRWfLOCHeYwgb5vzixAKMQB6SarSf9G1o4xJVOj49b9kps_eSOP5TXpFx1EAcS-/s1600/42+Jim+in+kayak%252C+Wachusett+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQQ0aMLGRt8QFqTLSzJXkKZpmNKzvLyhwqpIhyKzSI4jbMT9nIrnAF4vk9eubB72-SyXU5K8aPYxRWfLOCHeYwgb5vzixAKMQB6SarSf9G1o4xJVOj49b9kps_eSOP5TXpFx1EAcS-/s320/42+Jim+in+kayak%252C+Wachusett+Inlet.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>As I rowed, seals began to gather astern,</b> about seven or
eight of them, following. Heads would pop up, stare wide-eyed at this oddest of
floating creatures with its stiff wooden arms that dip into the water and a
face that smiles at them, then they’d submerge and come up in a new spot. With
the astonished expressions on their human-like faces, you could almost hear the
cogs and wheels in their minds going, <i>look
at those weird flippers! How come it’s looking at us and going backwards?</i> A
couple of seals followed me all the way back to Raven. The dinghy utterly
fascinated them. Then they saw the kayak, and followed Jim, too.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcqXci3tyXnKHqitKicmD4G1fuwFb30qgeM1B1DoY_ZEsKaLP8RuziRPXFS2rn-QxXU-3ircW7E1AAAqR2NNUByno_FUTQHgwT6jPvMCPHlnlMQBXBmbby5VkttZz8IHx9-XwXydPx/s1600/43+Wachusett+Inlet+sunset2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcqXci3tyXnKHqitKicmD4G1fuwFb30qgeM1B1DoY_ZEsKaLP8RuziRPXFS2rn-QxXU-3ircW7E1AAAqR2NNUByno_FUTQHgwT6jPvMCPHlnlMQBXBmbby5VkttZz8IHx9-XwXydPx/s320/43+Wachusett+Inlet+sunset2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset, Wachusett Inlet.<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>After a night in the Pleistocene era,</b> we decided to see where all the ice in Muir Inlet was coming from, so we motored 5 miles up the inlet to the entrance of a lagoon where McBride Glacier was releasing a lot of icebergs.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDI1ssLFqx_Nph8z6F6oRG8byAj0_2_jOuHDemtnXf6uqf5J6UU_c3VwklvZdWgiuQ9zArA4WmqpjLGkpZB7phZ3Af1cvv1jTFWEsJcorOWkcMnUvfjnMj28caZkdeQaVYJoZ2fD1u/s1600/44+Icebergs%252C+near+McBride+Glacier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDI1ssLFqx_Nph8z6F6oRG8byAj0_2_jOuHDemtnXf6uqf5J6UU_c3VwklvZdWgiuQ9zArA4WmqpjLGkpZB7phZ3Af1cvv1jTFWEsJcorOWkcMnUvfjnMj28caZkdeQaVYJoZ2fD1u/s320/44+Icebergs%252C+near+McBride+Glacier.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Icebergs near McBride Glacier.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Let’s get some ten thousand year-old ice for drinks! Jim
scooped a bergy bit with the fish net.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeY6kcbvedSUJakhLmQ_ZRZz2W7Wyd-L8_Kw_qnxf9W8H8T8vlEPQ07dw2GxKYkuvjtk7PQ-U6ZOo3e8Y_owPMSwN265cPkTRN5J6QdnolCskhRUvGmLyvVOY6yiwsr20I2EoT3m4M/s1600/45+Even+the+ice+he+gets+is+fish-shaped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeY6kcbvedSUJakhLmQ_ZRZz2W7Wyd-L8_Kw_qnxf9W8H8T8vlEPQ07dw2GxKYkuvjtk7PQ-U6ZOo3e8Y_owPMSwN265cPkTRN5J6QdnolCskhRUvGmLyvVOY6yiwsr20I2EoT3m4M/s320/45+Even+the+ice+he+gets+is+fish-shaped.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dude even catches fish-shaped ice!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFmq14ml05tjL3glOWUgD9Mp3dgn2sH3ZWsJ_KVwB7F739-vXVynIJRsf-hil5ifcCsCvoWPBilyopOl7P2kpFiMZABSXRR0p68VvfNAPBz0ChyLJezpWz3-bFPBCVmy7mVrGL13p-/s1600/46+Another+fishy+piece+of+ice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFmq14ml05tjL3glOWUgD9Mp3dgn2sH3ZWsJ_KVwB7F739-vXVynIJRsf-hil5ifcCsCvoWPBilyopOl7P2kpFiMZABSXRR0p68VvfNAPBz0ChyLJezpWz3-bFPBCVmy7mVrGL13p-/s320/46+Another+fishy+piece+of+ice.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More fish-shaped ice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>What shall we do with it? It’s only 10:30 am and…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim grabbed a bottle, and BOOM! Pleistocene pamplemousse margaritas!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-ni_fnXEuAaUPocWa6zkQ7S3o8wscmA8Vi4DDoPMUxBhyphenhyphenz4aFtehXWw9mnK31eecofKICs3khxx70HZepH_WX1-ZFFUEo-8m59n6c0Rv-SUusuDh5UseN8_jkpzm0WTvPsmiWTYS/s1600/47+Pamplemousse+Margaritas+w+glacier+ice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-ni_fnXEuAaUPocWa6zkQ7S3o8wscmA8Vi4DDoPMUxBhyphenhyphenz4aFtehXWw9mnK31eecofKICs3khxx70HZepH_WX1-ZFFUEo-8m59n6c0Rv-SUusuDh5UseN8_jkpzm0WTvPsmiWTYS/s320/47+Pamplemousse+Margaritas+w+glacier+ice.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pleistocene pamplemousse margaritas!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh4TB8RsyYw5IFSLGs4bujlUDnG-FlfOG5g_5FBaejFX8JcRgF4_h8zy5kPqKGi65zeTx0gxW-wR-4qcR-doJuPsTA5iOD2LsXfw7-RNUKvaFjX0zQYoKnwfAY7-4r854tAoKIYgy9/s1600/48+Glacier+Margarita+party%2521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1203" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh4TB8RsyYw5IFSLGs4bujlUDnG-FlfOG5g_5FBaejFX8JcRgF4_h8zy5kPqKGi65zeTx0gxW-wR-4qcR-doJuPsTA5iOD2LsXfw7-RNUKvaFjX0zQYoKnwfAY7-4r854tAoKIYgy9/s320/48+Glacier+Margarita+party%2521.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Party on the Rave-On!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxLFWU7X7G4DaUXqtsJ_Sbi2Qgtyore5Ra9C4yPiNeS-dhBlNPFW4Yd2B8ijYhS_ImcRUWfunhxb_MCFkFe0f0g8EGKKxV_QPGBNubEaUCuGcWTLyfg9qOpQUtyxFsF15ov0OrD-06/s1600/49+Sand+in+glass%252C+Margarita+w+glacier+ice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxLFWU7X7G4DaUXqtsJ_Sbi2Qgtyore5Ra9C4yPiNeS-dhBlNPFW4Yd2B8ijYhS_ImcRUWfunhxb_MCFkFe0f0g8EGKKxV_QPGBNubEaUCuGcWTLyfg9qOpQUtyxFsF15ov0OrD-06/s320/49+Sand+in+glass%252C+Margarita+w+glacier+ice.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A proper glacial beverage includes a bit of sand.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>At Tyndall Cove in Geikie Inlet </b>we watched an enormous fat
black bear with an injured left rear leg ambling and grazing along the
shoreline not 200 feet from the boat, for nearly an hour. Broiled halibut
encrusted in homemade parmesan-almond breadcrumbs was on the dinner
menu—besides fish ‘n chips, we’ve also served it baked with a
raspberry-chipotle-scallion sauce, twice as wraps for lunch, and have barely
made a dent in our supply of halibut. Jim has a hankering to catch a salmon.
The fridge has been turned into a freezer, and it operates off the solar
panels. The bear was still on the shore next morning as we left.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmsv8bAbuJj6bsubVDiwO5Fcv2wTBdYnqxOKT_vZZHTIAkSfo968Vs-oJvb53t9sQQPiJxOtVReqGG8XqMnyeKpe9xQg2idOAmB5tRkYpE1sF7u6bgjRWqXhahlUW6ERRRnGWiP6vm/s1600/50+Jim+weighs+anchor+as+black+bear+watches.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmsv8bAbuJj6bsubVDiwO5Fcv2wTBdYnqxOKT_vZZHTIAkSfo968Vs-oJvb53t9sQQPiJxOtVReqGG8XqMnyeKpe9xQg2idOAmB5tRkYpE1sF7u6bgjRWqXhahlUW6ERRRnGWiP6vm/s320/50+Jim+weighs+anchor+as+black+bear+watches.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim weighs anchor as a black bear watches (too small to see with iPhone lens.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Going back to our conversation last week </b>with the Park
Service Ranger, as we came out of the briefing room another Ranger, looking out
the window at the anchored boats in Bartlett Cove, asked which boat are you
off? He seemed to be looking at the Big Snooty Yacht, the one we’d met at the
transient dock in Hoonah. Oh no, not that one, we’re off Raven, we said
proudly, a 29-foot wooden powerboat, all the while thinking, <i>you didn’t mistake us for them in these ratty
Carhartts, did you?</i> Oh, said the Rangers in unison, we didn’t mean the <i>yacht</i>. A bit of silence hung in the air.
I said, they’re not very friendly, are they? No, said one Ranger, it’s a
corporate yacht. Which corporation? Boeing. Ah, then that explains the name, I
said. Daedalus was the father of Icarus, who flew too high and burned his wings
off; well played, Boeing, well played.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Which brings us to another Unspoken Rule of the Sea:</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
#8: Once you’ve watched a different large powerboat pass you
and your Sweetie looks at the AIS (Automatic Identification System) to see its
name and he says, “That boat’s name is One Life; the owner probably isn’t a
Buddhist,” it might be wise to ask how much coffee he’s had that morning.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Next stop will be somewhere west of here,</b> possibly at the
Hobbit Hole in the Inian Islands, or Elfin, Cove, or both. We will leave you
with some more eco-porn.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihw9dvy13DIQYpsEZSEzTJcr9dYJBl8ZH4mArIe83RpamQWRpbqhsHcufRQy5r6yWXZZ8_v8ikChuqke9phFM0zN2fL-xVhKn0VuUpFflEu46xylN4WNitfYxA4qJ9R574u9e9mGhj/s1600/Reid+Inlet+still+waters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihw9dvy13DIQYpsEZSEzTJcr9dYJBl8ZH4mArIe83RpamQWRpbqhsHcufRQy5r6yWXZZ8_v8ikChuqke9phFM0zN2fL-xVhKn0VuUpFflEu46xylN4WNitfYxA4qJ9R574u9e9mGhj/s320/Reid+Inlet+still+waters.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still waters.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPmWE0APnJ8zcUMQUwTOxB93B8G71bmjmiWENXnD6I8GgNvQwtuKJgXGMQztCdtHM8CfPvxY7y8ue6VRkY7K4vh_4MPbL_V-tq5LEgQJtn6ogXrNkSZUj2adrZDwH7VtoPSjzjU8V0/s1600/Raven+at+Wachusett+Inlet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPmWE0APnJ8zcUMQUwTOxB93B8G71bmjmiWENXnD6I8GgNvQwtuKJgXGMQztCdtHM8CfPvxY7y8ue6VRkY7K4vh_4MPbL_V-tq5LEgQJtn6ogXrNkSZUj2adrZDwH7VtoPSjzjU8V0/s320/Raven+at+Wachusett+Inlet.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven at Wachusett Inlet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRbebyH9-zZBc5KdIuF0WXoXK2APQ3X9WrJj0KpD0P3OcfW5PGNWGOs9tcXaqLMjT4dSk5zPCsYaac4XwIF1vr9tjckumd-MLKHWGg5oShXswi-84-K4-TpXQXQdfNqEt6oeJyGXV5/s1600/Wachusett+Inlet+sunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRbebyH9-zZBc5KdIuF0WXoXK2APQ3X9WrJj0KpD0P3OcfW5PGNWGOs9tcXaqLMjT4dSk5zPCsYaac4XwIF1vr9tjckumd-MLKHWGg5oShXswi-84-K4-TpXQXQdfNqEt6oeJyGXV5/s320/Wachusett+Inlet+sunset.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another binocular shot.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</o:p></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>3678</o:Words>
<o:Characters>20967</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Karen L. Sullivan Publishing</o:Company>
<o:Lines>174</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>49</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>24596</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-69549077077345572472018-05-31T18:13:00.000-07:002018-05-31T18:13:18.085-07:00A Thousand Mile Maze<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1jakAMfWygey7Di1HrexX3ldCkybFWaHGBmntWgLFo_Mfm6GGq2DGY2zPKoP2vXJb6EUVAjb8GaxctnhaQBHqoLzehnZVXiWylfP9qIeEEDJMiu3GFFX3M_x0Hj1I9G4DS1mCV_sy/s1600/1+Still+waters%252C+Icy+Strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1jakAMfWygey7Di1HrexX3ldCkybFWaHGBmntWgLFo_Mfm6GGq2DGY2zPKoP2vXJb6EUVAjb8GaxctnhaQBHqoLzehnZVXiWylfP9qIeEEDJMiu3GFFX3M_x0Hj1I9G4DS1mCV_sy/s320/1+Still+waters%252C+Icy+Strait.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still, calm, cold, deep waters, Icy Strait.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p><b>Raven is snug in the
harbor of the Tlingit community of Hoonah, Alaska</b>, just across Icy Strait
from Glacier Bay. As I write this, an actual raven is chattering on a nearby
piling, and it sounds exactly like, um, well, a chimpanzee. This reminds me of
the party of six large sea lions who played at our bow yesterday, apparently
thinking they were, uh, Dall’s porpoises.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ9KIHruaTeRWMMfElb7knfoukJVPnb-ZwYh-8uU9C72BZL2Jw9L0i7kDZar6yNQAWQ4nhQjka2l3IytMUl7rMhWg-jBSk0sLpIFVl694b8KOsqxovSQkP6faUKKwcfDB6kBcQNYVw/s1600/2+Sea+lions+at+bow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ9KIHruaTeRWMMfElb7knfoukJVPnb-ZwYh-8uU9C72BZL2Jw9L0i7kDZar6yNQAWQ4nhQjka2l3IytMUl7rMhWg-jBSk0sLpIFVl694b8KOsqxovSQkP6faUKKwcfDB6kBcQNYVw/s320/2+Sea+lions+at+bow.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A pack of sea lions porpoising at our bow.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk1z18FXHu7IjexyCZxyz74CV_jiyevxQ_GaODKF_eGr5pUF947DYcwTijjzAMPaKMp4wcvWkAGWR7fUrwqKJpiRSggMsQFm6hKEHEzDtr-ZpdgeGlAk9_SHgQiVQyEvFavHQae4Z8/s1600/3+Dall%2527s+porpoise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk1z18FXHu7IjexyCZxyz74CV_jiyevxQ_GaODKF_eGr5pUF947DYcwTijjzAMPaKMp4wcvWkAGWR7fUrwqKJpiRSggMsQFm6hKEHEzDtr-ZpdgeGlAk9_SHgQiVQyEvFavHQae4Z8/s320/3+Dall%2527s+porpoise.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An actual Dall's porpoise (look carefully) swimming off our bow wave.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Which reminds me of the pair of marbled murrelets we saw in
Wrangell Narrows, who seemed to be herding a small jumping ball of panicked
herring, kind of like, er, feathered, potato-sized sheepdogs.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I am now waiting for a whale to fly. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTJv3kPCmwPJLwea_T-NOv-hVdHm1AahClugyef8E9ny__n5HfdLqWocGdb-rrAjveayDP2xpDOuYcwztoqUcEodqjNbUAuddxJG1I894SkmfC1F8QfTp4mONiRudxwdni5R74-0x/s1600/4+Whale+flying.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="427" data-original-width="640" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTJv3kPCmwPJLwea_T-NOv-hVdHm1AahClugyef8E9ny__n5HfdLqWocGdb-rrAjveayDP2xpDOuYcwztoqUcEodqjNbUAuddxJG1I894SkmfC1F8QfTp4mONiRudxwdni5R74-0x/s320/4+Whale+flying.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Airborne! NOAA photograph.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>We’ve come nearly 1,000 miles in 23 travel days!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivg-JJkNYXYe3uLVDpLJVtNZFBn19clbFG7nLFFCpN-PCHxt96-cI4Rr8qSiEifPSnJQFLJVSksUuHQhiqS3YfFaVrVTtiIaxCvNmW0m_EQNKOgFYVv38soecQXyp23QrkzcZ1ON9T/s1600/4a+Baranof+%252B+off-watch+reading.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivg-JJkNYXYe3uLVDpLJVtNZFBn19clbFG7nLFFCpN-PCHxt96-cI4Rr8qSiEifPSnJQFLJVSksUuHQhiqS3YfFaVrVTtiIaxCvNmW0m_EQNKOgFYVv38soecQXyp23QrkzcZ1ON9T/s320/4a+Baranof+%252B+off-watch+reading.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim reads a novel via his Kindle app while off watch on a long day.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>And we just received permission (and a permit)</b> from the
National Park Service to enter Glacier Bay on June 2<sup>nd</sup>. They only
allow 25 boats at a time to be in the park, including cruise ships, so we feel
lucky.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqilKtA8diH6VZXXsW6LXZesTumjD4N1sljTMWOrtdE_u58JBmY7QadWTjRXXOxeygutB2g99oqSXa_ifEcUzW74SDmDIbNYmea9w7GOgTdOlQSEg3MU2rDagudAt2HGH9VV3DRX8P/s1600/5+Chatham+Sound.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqilKtA8diH6VZXXsW6LXZesTumjD4N1sljTMWOrtdE_u58JBmY7QadWTjRXXOxeygutB2g99oqSXa_ifEcUzW74SDmDIbNYmea9w7GOgTdOlQSEg3MU2rDagudAt2HGH9VV3DRX8P/s320/5+Chatham+Sound.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some disgustingly lovely scenery on Chatham Sound. We just came out of days and days of gray rain into the land of eco-porn, and we have plans to give you more, so just deal with it. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>While fun, this voyage so far has had a fast pace</b>, so now
that we are nearing the northernmost areas we’ll visit, it’s time to slow down
and smell the flowers. But also to watch out for bears, who like it when you
slow down to smell the flowers. Two days ago Jim rowed ashore in our last
anchorage, Cosmos Cove on Baranof Island, which, if I keep using tired old
tropes like spectacular, gorgeous, sublime, etc, will eventually make you want
to hurl, so just imagine constantly being <i>inside</i>
a scene from "National Geographic Discovers Alaska!" and you’ll either get the
idea or hurl anyway.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrebmOJqdCQGLIB_0mAFef9ov8woaU6qtQFROk1jVzRllm03Nzi-twfnjFDL-xEJOpgJSH57iZZNHeHb5y9kpUzLwlO2IJXqb20E3PLxOchlcnzPk2gZlHC6-OCSkAlGy556t72SCO/s1600/6+Raven+in+Cosmos+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrebmOJqdCQGLIB_0mAFef9ov8woaU6qtQFROk1jVzRllm03Nzi-twfnjFDL-xEJOpgJSH57iZZNHeHb5y9kpUzLwlO2IJXqb20E3PLxOchlcnzPk2gZlHC6-OCSkAlGy556t72SCO/s320/6+Raven+in+Cosmos+Cove.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven at anchor in Cosmos Cove, Baranof Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim wandered the
beach and found a trail. He returned to Raven. “There’s a little trail,” he
pointed, “It looks like the start of a nice hike.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Just then, two grizzlies appeared on the beach… I mean,
uber-bears, ginormous fat, sleek Ursus horribilises, waddling cumbersomely down
the same beach Jim had just walked, probably belching up their last hiker meal.
They came from that nice little hiking trail Jim had discovered, a trail made by bears. A sow and
her nearly-grown cub are two of the most frequently cited bad-news bears.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Maybe we should reconsider that hike,” I said. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio9bBfqDxQCzt3Scgsn5L9uECSAQAU-gpZu5ZUD2r7L5AlE44eF2LyXnAbarLo8nWNUOS6Tl_Hoek09rMdOZpp3Ap5MVMd84Oh23RC_s9u1OBKpf1QVo9iTcraZZkVRO05EdtxwSgm/s1600/7+Bears+at+Cosmos+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio9bBfqDxQCzt3Scgsn5L9uECSAQAU-gpZu5ZUD2r7L5AlE44eF2LyXnAbarLo8nWNUOS6Tl_Hoek09rMdOZpp3Ap5MVMd84Oh23RC_s9u1OBKpf1QVo9iTcraZZkVRO05EdtxwSgm/s320/7+Bears+at+Cosmos+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mosquito-sized specks in the distance as photographed on an iPhone will eat you up if you get too close to them. We watched two grizzlies for twenty minutes, close-up with binoculars. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yeah. We’re not at the top of the food chain here,” said Jim,
looking at our Evergreen Guide. “Oh wow, it says ‘brown bear area’ at the head
of this cove… and this one, and this one. In fact <i>every</i> bay on page 71 says ‘brown bear area.’ But at Basket Cove it
shows the site of “…an old Indian village that was destroyed by an enraged pet
beaver.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Did you say ‘enraged pet beaver’?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I did. What could one possibly do to enrage a pet beaver?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“What could one possibly enjoy about keeping a pet beaver in
a house made of wood?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE5pCH27h6DeR019NMXCkb8CcNSW4aBoRI-WWI8Xd7lBrJ5R5kuU5gJ9U0sJIjNHDasS80YuXR-QbMNnGhfFHpIrj2PILH3cbPMfxRIG3uOp8-Nrpw4SVdDGlAW92r99bGmEmEKcPT/s1600/Karen+at+helm+Clarence+Strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE5pCH27h6DeR019NMXCkb8CcNSW4aBoRI-WWI8Xd7lBrJ5R5kuU5gJ9U0sJIjNHDasS80YuXR-QbMNnGhfFHpIrj2PILH3cbPMfxRIG3uOp8-Nrpw4SVdDGlAW92r99bGmEmEKcPT/s320/Karen+at+helm+Clarence+Strait.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen at the helm in rain and fog.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We last wrote to you
from Prince Rupert</b>, where the World’s Longest Pub Crawl was on a triumphant
uninterrupted streak.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiEl-bm836BUq1QvWXTiJ1lvt1j3cQkIXj5CAJuzccdHUap6Oo7D749lu3KZFd82YabqT0MNxHMoRQ-VnjjEVyZBFZBHM8Mls_QlrR2_ZfrXDnoClG0_tLC34_Xk4qTxqVdJpRo9lz/s1600/8+Kaleidoscope+in+Foggy+Bay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiEl-bm836BUq1QvWXTiJ1lvt1j3cQkIXj5CAJuzccdHUap6Oo7D749lu3KZFd82YabqT0MNxHMoRQ-VnjjEVyZBFZBHM8Mls_QlrR2_ZfrXDnoClG0_tLC34_Xk4qTxqVdJpRo9lz/s320/8+Kaleidoscope+in+Foggy+Bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kaleidoscope effect at Foggy Bay, Alaska. Before leaving Ketchikan we called US Customs to ask permission to anchor here before checking in at Ketchikan. (Required, and granted.) The crossing of Dixon Entrance, our second piece of open water, went well, with benign weather.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>That pub streak continued in Ketchikan, at Fat Stan’s near
the cruise ship docks. There was lots of rain.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisLquF7PHvBfhcBaEuLoURZXlSKbwJLWfpvoUYiJVFd6fGFwBZoEhd-ourZWicRltdDJeFlah9Wj55ER-g3a_wK3kUug8KUVOaPy3hN4ECf1rBR18uEKLHCljkH11ladHww5up3LcO/s1600/9+PUB+-+Fat+Stan%2527s%252C+Ketchikan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisLquF7PHvBfhcBaEuLoURZXlSKbwJLWfpvoUYiJVFd6fGFwBZoEhd-ourZWicRltdDJeFlah9Wj55ER-g3a_wK3kUug8KUVOaPy3hN4ECf1rBR18uEKLHCljkH11ladHww5up3LcO/s320/9+PUB+-+Fat+Stan%2527s%252C+Ketchikan.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fat Stan's Pub, Ketchikan.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We left Ketchikan the next day, just before 5 cruise ships disgorged
13,600 people into its narrow streets. Did we mention it was raining?</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNOOVX7HjlFmnw1CNy3gVUkOFgvAd7qpxmeMl8VVhKwUpVbHI6y2ZNMvKbDvF2Ie2VjGMHqhw3r65cgeYicSnYTQPNAQLC1Gz-eI9hc8YVqfxlZ-iw5JnJh6bdz4fsli8dqVO2TLyW/s1600/10+Ketchikan+heavy+traffic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNOOVX7HjlFmnw1CNy3gVUkOFgvAd7qpxmeMl8VVhKwUpVbHI6y2ZNMvKbDvF2Ie2VjGMHqhw3r65cgeYicSnYTQPNAQLC1Gz-eI9hc8YVqfxlZ-iw5JnJh6bdz4fsli8dqVO2TLyW/s320/10+Ketchikan+heavy+traffic.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heavy traffic in Ketchikan. Not shown: 4 more cruise ships and dozens of floatplanes landing and taking off in the fairway around the ships.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>The excellent weather we’d enjoyed since leaving Port
Townsend had come to a splashing halt with a series of gales that brought wind
and a ridiculous amount of rain. Our new heater kept the boat dry and warm,
through Clarence Strait, where log barges are a common sight.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOyWnW8xmn1s6dMvyU1CJ7zqSc0YLi-u-C5hLD1vo416UUHqKq60_PctGadlAYJizozHKEujFxN28DmUvmqCVqPbHbVMoq-L70oAZoEo_TWX5q3oEmTdyk3UDrO9wgaFYAQeKIZ06L/s1600/11+Log+barge%252C+Clarence+Strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOyWnW8xmn1s6dMvyU1CJ7zqSc0YLi-u-C5hLD1vo416UUHqKq60_PctGadlAYJizozHKEujFxN28DmUvmqCVqPbHbVMoq-L70oAZoEo_TWX5q3oEmTdyk3UDrO9wgaFYAQeKIZ06L/s320/11+Log+barge%252C+Clarence+Strait.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Log barge pulled by a tug.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>We rode out a gale in Exchange Cove, on the west side of
Clarence Strait’s north entrance.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0gLgHUNTmIbSGNf4EH3xtZmqzrIUhT7GSXetXfmuAvwfLe5ECjPhALc19R4vUAxns74mQ4TRfIcMBBiln6kyo3SeMqB4oB8K6VOPukv6zNyW2COXlLoXD3H_aJ5pX1Iij60yVHGH_/s1600/12+a+week+of+rain+and+wind.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0gLgHUNTmIbSGNf4EH3xtZmqzrIUhT7GSXetXfmuAvwfLe5ECjPhALc19R4vUAxns74mQ4TRfIcMBBiln6kyo3SeMqB4oB8K6VOPukv6zNyW2COXlLoXD3H_aJ5pX1Iij60yVHGH_/s320/12+a+week+of+rain+and+wind.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not much to see here, folks.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And we have seen humpback whales most days since leaving
Ketchikan; they seemed to especially enjoy both entrances to Kashevarof Passage
near the north end of Prince of Wales Island. It’s awe-inspiring to be in their
presence, to hear the giant whoosh of their breath and see the slow dive ending
with an upturned tail and a smooth circular spot on the water. They are also very hard to photograph unless you get almost too close. If they're nearby, we always slow down, alter course if they're ahead of us, and if we're not sure, we stop and wait until they surface.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We stopped to fish in Wrangell Narrows but got skunked. And
sadly, the pub crawl was temporarily interrupted in Petersburg, where the town had
rolled up the sidewalks for Memorial Day weekend and our berth at the south
marina was, we kid you not, nearly half a mile from the harbormaster’s office
and the showers. Nothing was open except the grocery store and a bar that
didn’t serve food. Pfffft. But PubRaven is always open, and since she once
served as the floating pub for a bunch of round-the-world sailors, we had our
pub dinner washed down by a fine Alaskan beer aboard our own boat and called it
good. Streak unbroken! Onward!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAmkPVg3t7xkg_KhwmPfBN9m4qCmP0TjVaIU_XIbF4A68-9PzaOFDmbOAGV6PHtZDUv_sTSBV9VQateBOH1S1HH2UzEsIKUGewUDoBlFJfc9nMoiBZB6QalTrYJLeXWKzSt7QhEzWr/s1600/13+Petersburg+-+chart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAmkPVg3t7xkg_KhwmPfBN9m4qCmP0TjVaIU_XIbF4A68-9PzaOFDmbOAGV6PHtZDUv_sTSBV9VQateBOH1S1HH2UzEsIKUGewUDoBlFJfc9nMoiBZB6QalTrYJLeXWKzSt7QhEzWr/s320/13+Petersburg+-+chart.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petersburg, we shall return when you are open.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>The day after the gale, we were stopped, boarded and
inspected</b> by a Coast Guard patrol boat—they were very friendly, polite and
professional, and after we passed the inspection we gave them a tour of Raven
and grinned as they said, WOW! This is the COOLEST boat we’ve been on! They too
could not stop grinning.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Leaving Petersburg, the forecast had gone down from 35 knot
gusts to a mere 20 knots from the southeast, which for us would be a tail wind,
so we decided to make more miles and not turn into the welcoming arms of
Portage Bay on Frederick Sound. “It’s only 40 miles to Chapin Bay on Admiralty
Island,” we said, “let’s keep going!” Beeeeg mistake. As Portage Bay’s
welcoming arms receded into the rain, the seas grew, the wind honked, and
suddenly we were surfing on 6-footers that were starting to resemble miniature
versions of those rollers you see in Hawaiian surfing competitions. It was wind against tide, and the seas were stacking up.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I’m not comfortable being out here in these conditions,” I
said, glancing to windward at the chaos behind us. “We don’t have sails anymore, or a deep
keel.” (Note to new readers: while we did sail across the Pacific, often in far
bigger winds and seas, and while we have not become sudden geriatric chickens, we
do recognize the differences between our current boat, which is not meant for
big boisterous seas, and our former sailboat, which was.)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yeah, it’s gotten rougher and if anything goes wrong, we’re
screwed,” said Jim. “Let’s turn around and go to Portage Bay.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim waited for a low series of waves and carefully turned
the boat around.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
WHAM! CRASH! BASH! SPLASH! VERTICAL WALLS ‘O WATER!! (I
swear, next time this happens we will get out the video, but it wasn’t our priority
just then and we hope it never happens again anyway, so just use your
imagination.)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2waTivsN_g63Y-8LULZ8iINC-8Cp7EdmTyeCmJ-mV-G0bfvzR31968HMRQQGab9uFzTKlhStneUxS2Vhqwov95x9pN8nlhPnGI6d9xxTkyGtxSQF0JNLfNGu8sZ8B5ETEWl5X_7Ua/s1600/14+Portage+Bay+tack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2waTivsN_g63Y-8LULZ8iINC-8Cp7EdmTyeCmJ-mV-G0bfvzR31968HMRQQGab9uFzTKlhStneUxS2Vhqwov95x9pN8nlhPnGI6d9xxTkyGtxSQF0JNLfNGu8sZ8B5ETEWl5X_7Ua/s320/14+Portage+Bay+tack.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our course into Portage bay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“HOLY CRAP!” we both yelled, “Hang on!” A few small things
flew around the cabin, but not as much as you’d expect given the way Raven got
thrown around. Jim handled the boat expertly through steep seas as we “tacked”
at a 45 degree angle to the biggest ones, back toward our bay. (See screen
capture above.) Raven did amazingly well. The wind howled and the rain poured as
we anchored near the head of the bay, and we were grateful for the good holding
and nice shallow depths so we could let out lots of scope. Jim decided that a
couple of hot dogs would be the perfect antidote, and also to cook them while
lying down. There aren’t many galleys you can do that in.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhalMPVd05lxAUGen9I1jUku1Efb9nzZwhRW_q-t-gyIBftnVD4KuIOruW_rcKsdjQ4W9HgT3-Ut4xr1qdIGWRLY_IcV5O8hulVavqTbewMnTNAzbSgqmitea0nP9Jktn3n-lsN7iCk/s1600/15+Cooking+in+repose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhalMPVd05lxAUGen9I1jUku1Efb9nzZwhRW_q-t-gyIBftnVD4KuIOruW_rcKsdjQ4W9HgT3-Ut4xr1qdIGWRLY_IcV5O8hulVavqTbewMnTNAzbSgqmitea0nP9Jktn3n-lsN7iCk/s320/15+Cooking+in+repose.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Cuisine en repose."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once that little weather tantrum ended next morning, the
most benign, bluebird conditions reigned until we reached Hoonah. We put the
big seas-rotten weather story in there so you don’t think this trip has been all
cakewalk.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgngx0tyJC-ERjcG6keOzGdJxf2sbV1YS_1EZVMLhYzYVARPIIzdOp8wGe0J8xtU3-SZI9rSpCZZPzBikp0GFv4wcCfxChSk7_0ZqWSM045K_KtpUIYAW1XKy4j0HUwWqx7ftAHX9gE/s1600/16+Ready+for+crabbin%2527%252C+Cosmos+Cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgngx0tyJC-ERjcG6keOzGdJxf2sbV1YS_1EZVMLhYzYVARPIIzdOp8wGe0J8xtU3-SZI9rSpCZZPzBikp0GFv4wcCfxChSk7_0ZqWSM045K_KtpUIYAW1XKy4j0HUwWqx7ftAHX9gE/s320/16+Ready+for+crabbin%2527%252C+Cosmos+Cove.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had no idea how comfy-cozy starfish find our crab trap, or how much they love our bait. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBxcwUThf9u_WNoHRxpbXpSzPs_1RehU3F4bV6gHLe3w-wMYiiBCp1VbJBb0AiWOUpdz9eftVWUqeHM8jFxZq2l2enDKV1QCMSCAZI5y9wJxem30igbUbaHZ19dwGogWKuSS_I_F4A/s1600/17+Eagle+outside+Hoonah.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBxcwUThf9u_WNoHRxpbXpSzPs_1RehU3F4bV6gHLe3w-wMYiiBCp1VbJBb0AiWOUpdz9eftVWUqeHM8jFxZq2l2enDKV1QCMSCAZI5y9wJxem30igbUbaHZ19dwGogWKuSS_I_F4A/s320/17+Eagle+outside+Hoonah.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eagles are great fishers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So now we are getting ready for a spell in Glacier Bay. I'm posting this from a friendly pub in Hoonah called "The Office." We’ll
leave you with a few more Unspoken Rules of the Sea:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
#5: When you ask a question of the haughty crew of an
extremely expensive-looking 151-foot mega-yacht that made you wait outside the
harbor and then forced you out of a channel with not a single acknowledgement, you
can be certain when you meet them on the dock later, that a sense of humor will
not be in evidence in their reply to your question, “Does your washing machine
take quarters?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
#6: When you leave the boat at anchor to begin rowing to a
pub, and ten feet off the stern you start counting clams on the bottom, it may
be time to consider re-anchoring your boat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
#7: When you are trolling for fish less than two boat
lengths from shore because that’s where the fish are but it’s 90 feet deep,
your chief danger is getting hit by a falling tree.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxaD0785CyTutfuoeFue1UBEDmpORN0o-krhX9z9zGKgnlL0-B38ElNpoGe1Lu_PijJD90OyycqI77EP9QMLHlTe3qa7LIHhm8RfhVxUepdgWqCC0lXwaDXDpk1u9kSAnw8IqgWRW/s1600/18+Baranof+ahead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxaD0785CyTutfuoeFue1UBEDmpORN0o-krhX9z9zGKgnlL0-B38ElNpoGe1Lu_PijJD90OyycqI77EP9QMLHlTe3qa7LIHhm8RfhVxUepdgWqCC0lXwaDXDpk1u9kSAnw8IqgWRW/s320/18+Baranof+ahead.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Next stop, Glacier Bay!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br /><div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>1367</o:Words>
<o:Characters>7796</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Karen L. Sullivan Publishing</o:Company>
<o:Lines>64</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>18</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>9145</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-89113860121175275032018-05-20T19:23:00.000-07:002018-05-20T19:23:26.646-07:00Post Cards from the Ocean Road<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8mrMcR1sx-O47EmuGXtsaEQdNpf4vW0rQSgvLC3iJUWlNQaNlt8EUsnZWPhbkpR1t8pIHqXCMFQAqmGsoCGDFCk7TR4rfUMFt1GpRX55oMxKfZxEMHZmljKcoMwNP00AtDGqmilBs/s1600/1+Raven+greets+Wild+Abandon%252C+Prince+Rupert+hbr+-+low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8mrMcR1sx-O47EmuGXtsaEQdNpf4vW0rQSgvLC3iJUWlNQaNlt8EUsnZWPhbkpR1t8pIHqXCMFQAqmGsoCGDFCk7TR4rfUMFt1GpRX55oMxKfZxEMHZmljKcoMwNP00AtDGqmilBs/s320/1+Raven+greets+Wild+Abandon%252C+Prince+Rupert+hbr+-+low+res.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven greets our Canadian friends. Photo by Mae Ying.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We are safely tied up at a marina in Prince Rupert</b>, Canada,
waiting for a gale to pass and listening to the tortured Chewbacca-roar of bow
thrusters squeezing large yachts into small spaces. We are also reunited with our
friends Marty and Mae.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4tTbsnrabvAkhw_W_WVs9VM39ZggQ5u8KHa6xFB-DmZGZXTnz4yXXLM5arkFahHvBAwpRlNZatyrTEPu4seaRa49IA6dOSqICZwpDgxudvkA1eYd40wENXCdB21mnIxycjGkVYNE/s1600/2+Wild+Abandon+comes+in+from+a+sail+b4+gale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4tTbsnrabvAkhw_W_WVs9VM39ZggQ5u8KHa6xFB-DmZGZXTnz4yXXLM5arkFahHvBAwpRlNZatyrTEPu4seaRa49IA6dOSqICZwpDgxudvkA1eYd40wENXCdB21mnIxycjGkVYNE/s320/2+Wild+Abandon+comes+in+from+a+sail+b4+gale.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marty, Mae and their friend Max aboard Wild Abandon.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizKsdt6OsqH9Fq4qJAi-7VpVUxuRIhoE_C9mseiVpm8rb1lfT0i66qKFPuMw_4BRpSqV8CsOl_3MGCoZQZ_U-q9nY7EM3ywCbdu_HEui0t8rV5o5v2jqeHGeryBZhb6o8C4gFbLkIS/s1600/3+Reunion%252C+Cow+Bay+docks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizKsdt6OsqH9Fq4qJAi-7VpVUxuRIhoE_C9mseiVpm8rb1lfT0i66qKFPuMw_4BRpSqV8CsOl_3MGCoZQZ_U-q9nY7EM3ywCbdu_HEui0t8rV5o5v2jqeHGeryBZhb6o8C4gFbLkIS/s320/3+Reunion%252C+Cow+Bay+docks.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen and Jim do a slo-mo greeting ceremony.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>The World’s Longest Pub Crawl continues</b>, with two pubs
visited here in Prince Rupert and one in Shearwater a few days ago. We will
continue this important “research” at Ketchikan once the gale passes, and you
will have a full report at the end.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtldGngMUXP1RS-Ve34vqSSp-TLBkdJm4mKv5HxxCXyePsfrEaXlOLiaAKRo8my4Oyzoa-fTOhBWsgWDugKCvVC3NdHnVc21aRUW-QkE3XRTjMUgd8q5ZH3AKQbMBQHfLTyoo3yxDb/s1600/4+Lounge+mode+looking+fwd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtldGngMUXP1RS-Ve34vqSSp-TLBkdJm4mKv5HxxCXyePsfrEaXlOLiaAKRo8my4Oyzoa-fTOhBWsgWDugKCvVC3NdHnVc21aRUW-QkE3XRTjMUgd8q5ZH3AKQbMBQHfLTyoo3yxDb/s320/4+Lounge+mode+looking+fwd.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Raven in "Lounge Mode," looking forward.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Our last post left you in high suspense </b>about an
oh-dark-thirty departure from Port McNeill, at the top of Vancouver Island, bound
across a mean stretch of open water that flows past the aptly named Cape
Caution. It didn’t go as planned. While we did get up at the ungodly hour of
1:30 am and made a 2:30 departure toward Queen Charlotte Sound in pitch black,
and while we won’t be making a habit of doing that anymore, the winds and seas
were larger than forecast, and the fun-to-not-fun ratio rapidly declined. We
bashed in the darkness for 29 miles, then decided that 1, things weren’t going
to get any better out there, 2, we were too tired to safely keep going, and 3,
a nice nap in a quiet cove sounded much more fun. So we pulled into a little
indent in the rocks on the northwest side of Hurst Island, called “God’s
Pocket.” As pockets go, it was one of God’s more linty outer specimens, because
a dive resort has taken up all the best places for transient boats and we were
forced to anchor in deep water and roll like hobbits in a barrel.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After a nice nap we moved to Clam Cove on the northeast end
of Nigei Island to wait for the forecast 20-30 knot headwinds to subside, and
wow what a great spot that is.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSTXuy9XB5VkY1FTt7eWLAedZJCdeUNGNOUAzPYeXiPQL88EjQtdyvtHuYTNcjGdMCmony80Q1lpFWCaJQf-WcwURZLFP6Z4Y-CoewpNwb-SsaDtDmYseYzRFCh44Kz9gMA19dXXOo/s1600/Clam+Cove2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="520" data-original-width="699" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSTXuy9XB5VkY1FTt7eWLAedZJCdeUNGNOUAzPYeXiPQL88EjQtdyvtHuYTNcjGdMCmony80Q1lpFWCaJQf-WcwURZLFP6Z4Y-CoewpNwb-SsaDtDmYseYzRFCh44Kz9gMA19dXXOo/s320/Clam+Cove2.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clam Cove, a superb anchorage. Shhhhh...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>The crossing happened next morning</b> during an unexpected
lull, but with seas at 2 meters and some higher, plus fog the whole way, it
wasn’t a place to linger, especially after we heard while halfway across that a
gale warning had been issued. Raven again surprised us with her stability and
solid progress—those were the largest seas we’ve had her in so far, but not the
worst in terms of roughness, because the wind was light. Our original
destination was Fury Cove, at the mouth of Fitzhugh Sound, but we decided to
keep going to get more distance from those forecast gale-whipped seas. Green
Island Anchorage, further north on the east side of Fitzhugh Sound, is another
gorgeous, secluded, bomb-proof cove surrounded by dripping old-growth forest. And
we had it to ourselves.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We fished. First, from anchor. Jim set up a chair on the
tailgate.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7w-skwzv_hhv2WE67rITxSn4_Zfer92dt9BJxRAuPvJ4W8ChphHmAwQpEjS29FvSOQbW3S40hiWL3l9kH6hRvjSHKExyEbMPaBGLb98t3FuLMOArFWtNZynLzbv0KSyKhuk4kHjs/s1600/Jim+fishing.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="524" data-original-width="697" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO7w-skwzv_hhv2WE67rITxSn4_Zfer92dt9BJxRAuPvJ4W8ChphHmAwQpEjS29FvSOQbW3S40hiWL3l9kH6hRvjSHKExyEbMPaBGLb98t3FuLMOArFWtNZynLzbv0KSyKhuk4kHjs/s320/Jim+fishing.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This photo has driven certain people to wish they'd bought our boat before we did. You know who you are.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I asked, “Are you jigging?”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yep.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“What are you using?” (as if I’d know the difference.)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“This is the “true roll” lure Marty and Mae gave us. It
works for trolling, jigging, mooching, pretty much everything.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Mooching?” (whoa! new fishing vocabulary!)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Yeah.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“So, mooching, would be like, when you go up to someone
who’s jigging and say, can I have that fish?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim installed a downrigger at Raven’s stern, and we went out
in search of dinner. Troll over a high spot, zzzzzzzzz, fish on! A lingcod, too
small, we release it. Keep trolling. Catch a nice rock bass, perfect for
dinner! Haul it slowly up to the boat, a nice big one, and I ask, “Where’s the
net? I’ll get the net!” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Didn’t bring it”, says Jim. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“You want the gaff?” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Nope, I’ll just grab it with my ha... Whoops! Oh crap!” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“There goes dinner.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We are both too astonished to speak. We just look at each
other. It was like in the movies where the female character goes HOW COULD YOU
and the male character goes I DIDN’T THINK IT WOULD HAPPEN LIKE THAT and the
woman goes I WANT A DIVORCE! Except we said nothing. Finally I say, “We are
going to buy a net, right?” After several more tries and a few too-small
catches that were released, we get another rock bass. Dinner was good and the
marriage was saved. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG0zgG-r47Hr_F28qDNeEKdgpFQxSh6rXAgnWA-c03ULOzbEo9ExV1_v2HLVWCe9TqeJanpViSqVB-9R7Ufu5crTxbpFOoH97wE9jx8Y6iF3x6Zth4q8aAowiPVuss6BmJw8zrW_5Y/s1600/7+Jim+cleans+a+fish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG0zgG-r47Hr_F28qDNeEKdgpFQxSh6rXAgnWA-c03ULOzbEo9ExV1_v2HLVWCe9TqeJanpViSqVB-9R7Ufu5crTxbpFOoH97wE9jx8Y6iF3x6Zth4q8aAowiPVuss6BmJw8zrW_5Y/s320/7+Jim+cleans+a+fish.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim cleans a fish on what is our combination fish cleaning station and bar. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>As we travel, we read aloud to each other </b>from the Evergreen
Guide, a pair of chartbooks annotated with hundreds of notes about the history
of each place we pass. Much of it is about Vancouver’s exploration aboard the <i>Discovery</i> in the 1790s, and how places
were named. Thankfully, there are also notes about the names of some places
before contact with white explorers and settlers. What’s interesting is how
Vancouver named prominently noticeable places such as islands, peaks, points,
and passages for prominent people back in England (or ship’s crewmembers),
while First Nation (native) names are all about the more practical aspects,
such as foods to harvest or avoid, and the behavior of water upon canoes.
“Place of poison clams,” for example, needs no further explanation.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirZa9APqwJhPlblr8vNuHo3dSFWEKaCa-hvYJ_wz-ecojGOT_gjfoMGYfF7UI3VTlyl5vaMLINCvnDsq0B_A68d9-09mKZS_kzv2M955lYZLJTVOGsCCcBHDU7Obv8tPoE7AZTsB1f/s1600/8+Main+cabin+hatch+open.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirZa9APqwJhPlblr8vNuHo3dSFWEKaCa-hvYJ_wz-ecojGOT_gjfoMGYfF7UI3VTlyl5vaMLINCvnDsq0B_A68d9-09mKZS_kzv2M955lYZLJTVOGsCCcBHDU7Obv8tPoE7AZTsB1f/s320/8+Main+cabin+hatch+open.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forward cabin view through hatch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>And the depths! </b>These are deep, deep waters. No wonder
whales like them so much. In Fitzhugh Sound you can be a quarter mile from
shore and it’s a thousand feet deep. Another spot made us gasp; with a good arm,
north of Hakai Passage you could throw a rock to shore while in water 2,250
feet deep! The Evergreen Guide described how Vancouver’s ships would drift on
the tide with their anchor cables fully out, hanging straight down.
Occasionally they would tie the ships to trees ashore in order to keep them
from swinging out and causing their anchors to drop off ledges into deeper
water to hang uselessly.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVqucU_GkESP_Nne0GItUmK5t_qa3whmeKJUdJADvxhXP7_P9OI4gcG6xELPi7qecP7rsZdLEBCXrPB8_ZSjVl4W-3XgXSjKNmw1leubT5CNukZ-T33RkSkTe1acLhfGtpSOhltXi/s1600/9+Karen+enjoys+a+quiet+moment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVqucU_GkESP_Nne0GItUmK5t_qa3whmeKJUdJADvxhXP7_P9OI4gcG6xELPi7qecP7rsZdLEBCXrPB8_ZSjVl4W-3XgXSjKNmw1leubT5CNukZ-T33RkSkTe1acLhfGtpSOhltXi/s320/9+Karen+enjoys+a+quiet+moment.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen enjoys a quiet sunset moment while Jim rows around the anchorage.<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>A couple days later</b> we spent 2+ hours ashore at Shearwater, just enough time for our two priorities, the hardware store and a pub lunch. And here is where perhaps another anecdote about what I’m calling “Jim-isms” might fit: Several stops back we happened to be in a BC Liquor store and came across some, we kid you not, Pamplemousse Margaritas. Oh. My. Stars. Two things: first, pamplemousse, those luscious tropical grapefruits on steroids, along with Margaritas, are two of our favorite things, so the genius who combined them has our everlasting gratitude. Second, you may recall that we have in past posts recommended that BC Liquor stores put defibrillators near their entrances for American customers who wander in, see the prices, and faint. The very kind and helpful store owner took us in search of different types of Margaritas, one of which was selling at a discount of one dollar.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“These,” he said, holding up a 4-pack, “are pretty good.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Hm,” said Jim. “Buck off.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There was a bit of thoughtful silence. The store manager
began a quiet retreat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Um, Sweetie,” I asked, “you said buck with a b, right? As in, the discount?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The store manager fell over laughing, as did we. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>As if that wasn’t enough, at a hardware store</b> that sold
fishing gear, Jim, concerned about making sure we catch legal sized fish, asked
the owner, “Do you have a device to measure fish that’s not American?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“The fish don’t care,” said the hardware man. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A customer who obviously spent a lot of time in the store
leaned on the counter and chuckled, as did a store assistant, like, <i>hoo boy, </i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">we got a live one!</i><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“The lengths are the same,” continued the store owner. “Just
remember, 10 centimeters is 4 inches.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Well what’s 17.3 inches?” asked Jim.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This completely bumfuzzled everyone. Nobody, including us,
could figure out how many centimeters 17.3 inches was, and believe me, we all
tried. Finally, the store owner found a rolled-up plastic decal that measures
fish in centimeters, and Jim was happy. We asked for some bungee cord, and the
store owner, a true comedian, picked up a short length and said, “Do you want
two feet?” He stretched it out. “…or four feet?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Good one,” said Jim. “Can we pay in metric dollars?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9tC0DFm2Z6zWXG7oXoQoIcAxarItDpL4eD571PyV-Q6nvoyT81xVqtxNFnA7iE2zSMFX8fxV0LfNbliX8S9dhidvutOu-CLlnp7n_rW36qKRPuNnb7DV_V5CiWXzKpBts9Iht_HCZ/s1600/10+The+pink+pig+rides+again.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9tC0DFm2Z6zWXG7oXoQoIcAxarItDpL4eD571PyV-Q6nvoyT81xVqtxNFnA7iE2zSMFX8fxV0LfNbliX8S9dhidvutOu-CLlnp7n_rW36qKRPuNnb7DV_V5CiWXzKpBts9Iht_HCZ/s320/10+The+pink+pig+rides+again.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pink pig has been on at least half a dozen Grand Canyon raft trips, has sailed across the South Pacific, and is now Alaska-bound. Nothing fazes him.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Anchored that night a few more miles up the ocean road</b>, in
Powell Anchorage behind Ivory Island, we could hear surf rolling outside. The
weather has been uncharacteristically hot and sunny, and I cleaned Raven’s windows
so well that when I went to press the suction cup for a sunshade onto a side
window, it slowly dawned on me that the window was open and a suction cup won’t
stick to thin air. But I had to try it not once or twice, but three times. It
was one of those moments where you look around to see if anyone has seen you do
a truly dumb thing, and of course Jim had, and was laughing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We passed Princess Royal Island</b> and looked for the white
Kermode (Spirit) bears but did not see any. Beyond the rocky shoreline, the
forest of tall firs and cedars was too thick to see through. What we have seen
are otters, eagles, herons, ducks, and seabirds, including dozens of pairs of
marbled murrelets, a small, potato-sized bird that’s not faring too well in our
home state. It’s reassuring to see them. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Day 13 was a long one</b>, transiting narrow Grenville Channel
to anchor in 35 feet atop a terminal moraine in the otherwise deep Khutze Inlet,
a fjord. Although cruise ships, ferries and all manner of vessels large and
small use Grenville Channel, the biggest things we saw floating were logs and
trees. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-qURILflktPQWAits0mNwPXkONsZrmMBh82e5R8IuhnMvmSzIo01zFft5vkAKLWJZCK8BVTaGgyr3brlgvJdALMP4fIn_20teGaHJYWQBEWh3V_v6d7D5Lr8fkoklTOOei8fuYoeT/s1600/11+Tree+floating+off+Butedale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-qURILflktPQWAits0mNwPXkONsZrmMBh82e5R8IuhnMvmSzIo01zFft5vkAKLWJZCK8BVTaGgyr3brlgvJdALMP4fIn_20teGaHJYWQBEWh3V_v6d7D5Lr8fkoklTOOei8fuYoeT/s320/11+Tree+floating+off+Butedale.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hitting one of these babies would ruin your day. This tree was about 100 feet long.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>After a rainy winter,</b> river outfall has been tremendous, and
it has carried a lot of woody debris into waters where it’s normally not so
plentiful. You have to keep a sharp eye out, because hitting a log and damaging
your boat’s hull or prop could harsh your mellow. Plus, currents can reach 8
knots, so you need to plan ahead for your transit. We caught the tide ride, and
Raven did a steady 9 knots over the bottom, reaching 10 and even 11 at times.
Thrilling!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE4v3PVljHuG4I9Wg6D0MeEWhI1QTSoHWXqjqy_YMijNuuEvnDRL2XQN3z6wrK6mxLdeoWRGBdLRRIkNee9iEDh33Qlw_e64Aj34v1xyEwVWtTxo7m_i3RXB2CFbwFbhRv8_CG43Pa/s1600/12+Speed+in+Grenville+Channel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE4v3PVljHuG4I9Wg6D0MeEWhI1QTSoHWXqjqy_YMijNuuEvnDRL2XQN3z6wrK6mxLdeoWRGBdLRRIkNee9iEDh33Qlw_e64Aj34v1xyEwVWtTxo7m_i3RXB2CFbwFbhRv8_CG43Pa/s320/12+Speed+in+Grenville+Channel.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While anchored at Kumealon Inlet, Jim launched the dinghy
and went exploring. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdpY4euu-_5V8kYiZySIPJMncxtY_tmY3t51nHyEKNsPD1Qo16pDCe6vCsI9vT6ExMgUlG7pGDZjHki1-XcKVFVitPaN5KtKA7oPygoMTmwY83ue0Qv-1XN8Zu33zPJA81EUbMrGf5/s1600/13+Jim+rows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdpY4euu-_5V8kYiZySIPJMncxtY_tmY3t51nHyEKNsPD1Qo16pDCe6vCsI9vT6ExMgUlG7pGDZjHki1-XcKVFVitPaN5KtKA7oPygoMTmwY83ue0Qv-1XN8Zu33zPJA81EUbMrGf5/s320/13+Jim+rows.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There’s a narrow channel leading to a lagoon behind the
inlet, and he rowed up there. He was gone a long time, and I began to worry.
Finally he returned at 9:30 pm (still in broad daylight) with the dinghy, oars
and himself utterly filthy and also full of… foam? <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL3_dlBCS506AjYOlAllczEzi5DpIhJWx5W_qo8x9vuUMe2NWNN3KyY7Wf4JaCpL3TBWSJXm4u25qbJ8J5ukxYd4QaFCPSiLuTkSRsWJYDHzPnAy4K_OaNMhJgOAFI0Ns08jPH5AaG/s1600/14+Foam+in+Kumealeon+Inlet.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="691" data-original-width="385" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL3_dlBCS506AjYOlAllczEzi5DpIhJWx5W_qo8x9vuUMe2NWNN3KyY7Wf4JaCpL3TBWSJXm4u25qbJ8J5ukxYd4QaFCPSiLuTkSRsWJYDHzPnAy4K_OaNMhJgOAFI0Ns08jPH5AaG/s320/14+Foam+in+Kumealeon+Inlet.png" width="178" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“What on earth happened?” I asked. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“That was definitely one of the oddest experiences I’ve ever
had,” said Jim. “It looked like someone had dumped not a box but a barrel of
Tide at the base of a waterfall back there. I was rowing through the inlet and
all of a sudden this deep foam came toward me and started filling the dinghy!
It was crazy! If I’d stayed there it would’ve filled the dinghy. As it was, I
couldn’t see the oars while I was rowing. Here, look, I took a video with my
phone.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I looked at the video. (We would upload it, but the internet
signal is too weak.) Jim’s voice calmly narrates the scene of oncoming foam,
and then it all goes into overdrive. He says, “These suds, they’re coming
aboard, they’re taking over! Lookit this, whoa! Whoa! I gotta put down this
phone and ROW!” You see the screen go black, hear him rowing and breathing hard,
making the exact sounds of a person being chased by zombies, then he picks up
the phone, out of breath, and says “Whew! That was nuts!” It was like watching
a water version of the Blair Witch Project. Turns out this foam is a natural occurrence and nobody dumped soap, so don't worry. It has been happening here for centuries. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOUiiIKb053sePHN-xPtgSiBjLv4W7H4ZLK9cIjEDRExh5-5GWvwrr36FFHOclAKp0uYyIbXw7QuLhdoUURhmUPUlB0LWBlLPd8dcVjBa9O1I30xaXCPC0_weGFQy5-TP-UQbk8C4A/s1600/15+Kumealon+Inlet+anchorage+w+foam+trail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOUiiIKb053sePHN-xPtgSiBjLv4W7H4ZLK9cIjEDRExh5-5GWvwrr36FFHOclAKp0uYyIbXw7QuLhdoUURhmUPUlB0LWBlLPd8dcVjBa9O1I30xaXCPC0_weGFQy5-TP-UQbk8C4A/s320/15+Kumealon+Inlet+anchorage+w+foam+trail.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kumealon Inlet anchorage, with a train of foam flowing out the narrow inlet at the head of the cove.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Thick fog greeted us</b> at the north end of Grenville Channel, and stayed with us to the narrows approaching Prince Rupert, but the radar and
chart plotter took most (but not all) of the worry out.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5witvdgWtQ0jRof0pBWruUdi9TcIokZj0KF7NagtlPLzOX_KYicO-QnFL3_iNCbT3DGexq0Xz8f3hFE3x8_H-_BtYtb7vcMpCldnI8GWWtSxMmx26-jDvoxK9FE8eVsa7kGdGIJJ7/s1600/16+Jim+drives+in+fog+to+Prince+Rupert.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5witvdgWtQ0jRof0pBWruUdi9TcIokZj0KF7NagtlPLzOX_KYicO-QnFL3_iNCbT3DGexq0Xz8f3hFE3x8_H-_BtYtb7vcMpCldnI8GWWtSxMmx26-jDvoxK9FE8eVsa7kGdGIJJ7/s320/16+Jim+drives+in+fog+to+Prince+Rupert.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cap'n Jim is steady at the helm in thick fog, watching the radar for other boats and the water ahead for logs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We are having a wonderful reunion</b> with our friends Marty and
Mae aboard Wild Abandon, their aptly-named, newly-painted navy-blue sloop.
These two are hard-core sailors and fishermen. They catch so many big fish and
send us photos of them that we call it piscatorial porn. And man, can Mae ever
cook that seafood. We enjoyed a fabulous dinner of spot prawns in garlic butter
(appetizer) followed by barbecued marinated salmon with mango salsa, seasoned
with much laughter.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCkQFJ5DorqvHM01vYxv3aQFb8E2vlrmwJGXSR6n3qyldwrQEI7Xw-oR2GZ6iL0NyjmbUJKcZf_PpGXUFPiXcLxq-vC89jiBfT4zIUArnD5ikYJVETgXsTEyOOFNk2U7i4zTSNf4ck/s1600/17+Dinner+aboard+Wild+Abandon+in+Prince+Rupert.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCkQFJ5DorqvHM01vYxv3aQFb8E2vlrmwJGXSR6n3qyldwrQEI7Xw-oR2GZ6iL0NyjmbUJKcZf_PpGXUFPiXcLxq-vC89jiBfT4zIUArnD5ikYJVETgXsTEyOOFNk2U7i4zTSNf4ck/s320/17+Dinner+aboard+Wild+Abandon+in+Prince+Rupert.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Mae made salmon loaf with the leftovers, oh my. And now we’re
gale-bound in the same marina together! Looks like there may be a weather
window on Tuesday, so we will head out toward Ketchikan as soon as the weather permits.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk7qbK6CGafJs-27eLOWnDr1Cx2CxS0QT-WIQwi0luDRnrgiela7IQSAeLwmK15_MOgVn_XhV2L-LPi5xBPnETqpFRVWzYtLCPGV_knjBuAQ4EN_3Hkd5IfZnk-kVT-3ytWLWFUQ0x/s1600/18+Dinghy%252C+flag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk7qbK6CGafJs-27eLOWnDr1Cx2CxS0QT-WIQwi0luDRnrgiela7IQSAeLwmK15_MOgVn_XhV2L-LPi5xBPnETqpFRVWzYtLCPGV_knjBuAQ4EN_3Hkd5IfZnk-kVT-3ytWLWFUQ0x/s320/18+Dinghy%252C+flag.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>1797</o:Words>
<o:Characters>10244</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Karen L. Sullivan Publishing</o:Company>
<o:Lines>85</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>24</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>12017</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-87674437760459134452018-05-10T16:29:00.000-07:002018-07-15T12:13:37.101-07:00North to Alaska!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF596igKBVeEtWrsSEdTJ7vtdur41ThvlboRXnO8ro8vT470zakq5GzT1H6-orCwGq_aQtONyoldAPhV7musQIHZY9Uq5mDGDL-OE90DSFmHTTxmldtztk9efxWZVVMCxFCCDwUeTi/s1600/Leif%2527s+photo+of+Raven+leaving2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1263" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF596igKBVeEtWrsSEdTJ7vtdur41ThvlboRXnO8ro8vT470zakq5GzT1H6-orCwGq_aQtONyoldAPhV7musQIHZY9Uq5mDGDL-OE90DSFmHTTxmldtztk9efxWZVVMCxFCCDwUeTi/s320/Leif%2527s+photo+of+Raven+leaving2.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven leaving Port Townsend for Alaska on a silver misty morning with the Hawaiian Chieftain sailing in the background. Photo by Leif Knutsen, who designed and built Raven.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>We have sorely neglected our bloggery,</b> but we’re back with fresh stories as we head for Alaska aboard our 29’ wooden powerboat, Raven.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio-aFCmcbv1OQXh6slFmw6XzrUH_spS0efwxVr3TpPeUEnR0PW3UABfzL-CuQSIdCraM29QD4hHtqgQK3C5tDvakXzk-PYaaXWyJPxy6Mr3-40vhTWItyrDq1BclHPbx-gi49aNNS5/s1600/Dinghy+comes+aboard2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio-aFCmcbv1OQXh6slFmw6XzrUH_spS0efwxVr3TpPeUEnR0PW3UABfzL-CuQSIdCraM29QD4hHtqgQK3C5tDvakXzk-PYaaXWyJPxy6Mr3-40vhTWItyrDq1BclHPbx-gi49aNNS5/s320/Dinghy+comes+aboard2.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dinghy comes aboard through the tailgate and fits inside the boat - very handy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On May 4 we left Port Townsend with a proper sendoff that included friends who brought treats, books, good wishes, and very bad puns. And one brave soul who waved farewell from his paddleboard off Point Wilson.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7erjug6nrd4lykHfoWFNY0Ydqv1alBzNc1y4ev8ZTRgaI9W0i53eZrVyI-28v5w1ker6dOpoRwJ38bnxUe5YSbnqrmw_S3a4v5dPjlbpXWOmDjGHQiR1BFQAJ0IKZdZnkCSvlcfzH/s1600/Friends+seeing+us+off2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7erjug6nrd4lykHfoWFNY0Ydqv1alBzNc1y4ev8ZTRgaI9W0i53eZrVyI-28v5w1ker6dOpoRwJ38bnxUe5YSbnqrmw_S3a4v5dPjlbpXWOmDjGHQiR1BFQAJ0IKZdZnkCSvlcfzH/s320/Friends+seeing+us+off2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friends seeing us off with good wishes and bad puns.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After several long days, one of which covered 90 miles, we arrived at Port McNeill, at the top of Vancouver Island, just ahead of a gale. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjttQ4JFcGc9UnAYWBcWA0UK0Pkjh_qRsAINq3xPFIrO2zPEx7W8w144qRBX3MOlc-HFAOccW9VSvN63MbUpFGKoN_fp9WUL8jGKMCx76_dm8neGxORqS05K_lj8lWoWP0ugyVpMNK8/s1600/Sloppy+going2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjttQ4JFcGc9UnAYWBcWA0UK0Pkjh_qRsAINq3xPFIrO2zPEx7W8w144qRBX3MOlc-HFAOccW9VSvN63MbUpFGKoN_fp9WUL8jGKMCx76_dm8neGxORqS05K_lj8lWoWP0ugyVpMNK8/s320/Sloppy+going2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sloppy going in Johnstone Strait...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXIU0B0jaAaRfCN34ThcoFTO6VQlTRD12z9rZYxuXJo6dSPdEbnj9rxGHtB5Na5dxjO8WYy7vnh7Zw-Mq-YeYJENY-s47w9RVHChd6hKL7c1J7wKAj2ODnuAXae-QDfbx_OL2VWtpW/s1600/Rainbow%252C+Johnstone+Strait2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXIU0B0jaAaRfCN34ThcoFTO6VQlTRD12z9rZYxuXJo6dSPdEbnj9rxGHtB5Na5dxjO8WYy7vnh7Zw-Mq-YeYJENY-s47w9RVHChd6hKL7c1J7wKAj2ODnuAXae-QDfbx_OL2VWtpW/s320/Rainbow%252C+Johnstone+Strait2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...followed by a rainbow! (and a gale.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>There’s a lot of preparation</b>, as you no doubt know, for any long trip (we will be gone for several months), and toward the end we became a pair of walking lists:<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>“Did get a spare whatsit?”<br />
<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>“Oh rats, I was just at the hardware store, I’ll get it next trip.”<br />
<br />
There’s the endless organizing…<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqfTzLa9lnCsgRxIeA_B5IJDrLma8iRMWzoiWTXLrWLnUfZ1ytN4uabQjkzZ1RnMH-cfB5x2M7jFSDdqohr9HOzLV43BpUOdpurKak4fT3Ec3eqaQbwTdc1_V2t-OfNZ0fcTnzBwq/s1600/Jim+organizing2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqfTzLa9lnCsgRxIeA_B5IJDrLma8iRMWzoiWTXLrWLnUfZ1ytN4uabQjkzZ1RnMH-cfB5x2M7jFSDdqohr9HOzLV43BpUOdpurKak4fT3Ec3eqaQbwTdc1_V2t-OfNZ0fcTnzBwq/s320/Jim+organizing2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim makes things orderly aft.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
…and the endless provisioning and storing of food, even though you rationally and totally get that yes, Virginia, people actually do eat and have grocery stores in Canada and Alaska.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCrrg-85SIm2MOTJTITkkVk0gbEGcE0-wJqziAmiDnasaWI-JpY1smb7ySkskH9U5z_wHE7eZSEJmCPML1iqW4T-zND5VU-anCzJzPpAmFvDv8N0FKQVgTUTC_MutzL6I8O-jOOgko/s1600/Provisions2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCrrg-85SIm2MOTJTITkkVk0gbEGcE0-wJqziAmiDnasaWI-JpY1smb7ySkskH9U5z_wHE7eZSEJmCPML1iqW4T-zND5VU-anCzJzPpAmFvDv8N0FKQVgTUTC_MutzL6I8O-jOOgko/s320/Provisions2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storing provisions in the cabin.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>We have learned</b> from our trans-Pacific crossing to never pass up an opportunity to visit a grocery store in a different country; you never know what you’ll find, and you never know when you may find it again. I think that idea may have cemented itself that time in the Marquesas when I paid the equivalent of six dollars for a third of the last head of limp cabbage on the island, and felt like I’d scored the deal of the decade. So what have we done with all that food that fills our boat? We left it aboard and went on the world’s longest pub crawl!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67c9TTAHGs1o0QFBwFTx_1LftATkYa1bUQyhARVNrGJkIMy4T2q6jFssMBMqNV10wggBaRyA72iPXt4nZyOga7L4QXNIP1OKaRfj4RU3zi59EAMS_qw8Kz0SKHqAS4muwhux8ouVE/s1600/IMG_3334.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="719" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67c9TTAHGs1o0QFBwFTx_1LftATkYa1bUQyhARVNrGJkIMy4T2q6jFssMBMqNV10wggBaRyA72iPXt4nZyOga7L4QXNIP1OKaRfj4RU3zi59EAMS_qw8Kz0SKHqAS4muwhux8ouVE/s320/IMG_3334.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<b>Here’s the itinerary so far:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Day 1:</b> Cross the Strait of Juan de Fuca and anchor in Reid Harbor, Stuart Island, San Juan Islands. No pub unless one considers that Raven herself has served as a floating pub to a bunch of round-the-world sailors.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDjYsCj_LY41yA0KRA2lU0mEWn19070gNA1kFN9TXurn6oDCOL75BBLaagL4BRdPrqX6Ekg8NHHP3VRw-Nu4TezK_yAwztDH5QBly5DbhKbcG8B47rNE1EY8GU-w7RCNl7GZFOg-7f/s1600/Karen+on+tailgate2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDjYsCj_LY41yA0KRA2lU0mEWn19070gNA1kFN9TXurn6oDCOL75BBLaagL4BRdPrqX6Ekg8NHHP3VRw-Nu4TezK_yAwztDH5QBly5DbhKbcG8B47rNE1EY8GU-w7RCNl7GZFOg-7f/s320/Karen+on+tailgate2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tailgate as a private wharf.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Day 2:</b> Cross Haro Strait, check in with Canadian Customs, and go to a wood-fired pizza pub. Also a very fancy boat show in the marina where we were berthed.<br />
<br />
<b>Day 3:</b> Get underway at 6:00 am in order to make the slack current at Dodd Narrows, where people set up lawn chairs to watch the parade of boats chaos-ing through a whirlpool-infested rock bottleneck. Anchor off Nanaimo’s famous Dinghy Dock pub, which can only be reached by boat, and whose patrons and waitstaff were, to a person, extremely jolly.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNgbamzNa4LlUdQFa9dvA24aBfPqzQn4njhKwPiSQo4kq-XnvJq67w_lWCOFiPR7pOjPE7SygBlDUeXCDdK9odA3q-QX8n7n0uCDfGV8vIzqZG7bUAHZEYWXQh1HaQv0GQ17cMdP5/s1600/Raven+at+Nanaimo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNgbamzNa4LlUdQFa9dvA24aBfPqzQn4njhKwPiSQo4kq-XnvJq67w_lWCOFiPR7pOjPE7SygBlDUeXCDdK9odA3q-QX8n7n0uCDfGV8vIzqZG7bUAHZEYWXQh1HaQv0GQ17cMdP5/s320/Raven+at+Nanaimo2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven anchored off Nanaimo. View from Newcastle Island.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Day 4: </b>Get underway at 5:00 am, go out into the Strait of Georgia in a spanking southeasterly breeze, think, oh wait, we’re not a sailboat anymore! and go like mad, downwind, sometimes surfing a bit, to anchor at Comox, where the exquisite Black Fin Pub awaits conveniently near the top of the fishing pier.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCZvsEqDeOPdFZ_vwrRg9LTqstWYDimkqXxBG0I45fe3kfu5Db2NfoKkNg7cvQ6AT2F8iDzowjI1vjzECOMpuWpzsJ_gRi6ykT7dBf3i-va4c2ZOaBSMNl_NFoVQebiRkgokdqkoMf/s1600/First+light%252C+underway2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCZvsEqDeOPdFZ_vwrRg9LTqstWYDimkqXxBG0I45fe3kfu5Db2NfoKkNg7cvQ6AT2F8iDzowjI1vjzECOMpuWpzsJ_gRi6ykT7dBf3i-va4c2ZOaBSMNl_NFoVQebiRkgokdqkoMf/s320/First+light%252C+underway2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underway at first light.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Day 5:</b> Get underway at 4:00 am in darkness, picking our way out of crowded Comox Harbor, with a goal of passing through the dreaded Seymour Narrows on the slack tide at exactly 12:51 pm. To get an idea of the strength of this Narrows at maximum speed, imagine your boat being thrown into an industrial Maytag washer, first on extreme agitation followed by a nice fast spin cycle, with the twin peaks of a blown-up small mountain and some wrecked ships lying 45 feet beneath your keel. This was a 90-mile day; we caught the currents right and just kept going, all the way to Port Harvey, which has no pub.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlGr55U-xzS2R7SiPVJ9waIrDabUPjRt736o01xAJL_lCvTLOrcV6zbEaJmLIGk8CXNf6iUelh7MXK95gTrCmX8c87Jz5fbW0g6AJlRJE7lbcXcD2AM6ejLD6AkSSSso5yjkNO-pxc/s1600/Seymour+narrows+sonar2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlGr55U-xzS2R7SiPVJ9waIrDabUPjRt736o01xAJL_lCvTLOrcV6zbEaJmLIGk8CXNf6iUelh7MXK95gTrCmX8c87Jz5fbW0g6AJlRJE7lbcXcD2AM6ejLD6AkSSSso5yjkNO-pxc/s320/Seymour+narrows+sonar2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sonar view of the twin peaks of an underwater mountain that, after the largest non-nuclear explosion in history (in 1958), deepened from 9 feet under the surface to 45 feet. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Day 6:</b> Despite the weather service forecasting a strong Northwest wind, which worried us, we found a nice light tailwind from the southeast when we got underway at 5:00 am. It built to a gale by afternoon, but by then we were already tied up snug at the marina at Port McNeill. Dinner at Gus’s Pub.<br />
<br />
Total miles so far: 279.<br />
Gallons of fuel used per hour: 0.57.<br />
Number of nautical miles per gallon: 10.5.<br />
<br />
As you might imagine, we’ve been challenging ourselves to keep up such a pace because we want to get to Glacier Bay and then take it easy. Today being the aftermath of the gale, we decided to make it a lay day. But <b>tonight we leave Port McNeill at 2:00 am,</b> to catch the current and (we hope) lighter winds of early morning.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgR-BxKveanYwd76yAWfOHv4CPYO4yyJQ3Kp20twR3fPJQmgRJZXNJ9O_Il5aRAcami0vlCNpWLi73NWnrxETolGK19l99vmJq0Pru2G618g59pC-sAYbBlpRSjf8egOVV98wGWFQ2/s1600/IMG_4337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="477" data-original-width="434" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgR-BxKveanYwd76yAWfOHv4CPYO4yyJQ3Kp20twR3fPJQmgRJZXNJ9O_Il5aRAcami0vlCNpWLi73NWnrxETolGK19l99vmJq0Pru2G618g59pC-sAYbBlpRSjf8egOVV98wGWFQ2/s320/IMG_4337.JPG" width="291" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Did you know</b> that there are a whole series of unspoken laws of the sea? For example:<br />
<br />
#1. If you are on autopilot and there is a crab pot anywhere near your course, your boat will head straight for it.<br />
<br />
#2: If you turn the temperature of the boat fridge down in hopes of preserving the food you’re not eating because you’re on a pub crawl, and also to test its power for the off chance that you might catch a nice big fish, it will cause a localized nuclear winter. Corollary: You will always discover the frozen beer at exactly happy hour.<br />
<br />
#3: If, in desperation caused by Unspoken Law #2, you respond to your husband’s amused comment to “think outside the bottle” by cutting the top off a frozen bottle of Coke, you will have an instant slushee. Corollary: You will also have an instant brain freeze.<br />
<br />
#4: If you are away from the worrisome daily news firehose for awhile and decide to check online to see what’s going on in the world, it will feel more like novelty than self-flagellation.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0v8uHvUxsAGFU76guMMt0IaCOFEkb9EKuAuRuYXTXZlf8NZe6weFa1S4Yy_zmC3icW-Um4Y4mTCCnIJTKFhOA0Ec_xqn1uu6nYSClsFKxqToCggfwnFtTS-Oc9D26ReIOx55cOLhP/s1600/Clouds+reflected2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0v8uHvUxsAGFU76guMMt0IaCOFEkb9EKuAuRuYXTXZlf8NZe6weFa1S4Yy_zmC3icW-Um4Y4mTCCnIJTKFhOA0Ec_xqn1uu6nYSClsFKxqToCggfwnFtTS-Oc9D26ReIOx55cOLhP/s320/Clouds+reflected2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-34115467124188797702017-01-07T15:43:00.000-08:002017-01-07T15:43:59.846-08:00That Nautical Affliction<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR6Q2Z2cc8E-mqTcUBCT0dyrfuhI0TQl1_swkYY5aZb7Klbv_pHjJ2PehTEAo4ifT1OBH2ZqcVwvByFmosBkVEBf-Cc_9TDVh6lv5iaBk5hLXTfzqk1Ho6UG5tLADMj6x9txKtpP2u/s1600/Year+at+a+Glance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR6Q2Z2cc8E-mqTcUBCT0dyrfuhI0TQl1_swkYY5aZb7Klbv_pHjJ2PehTEAo4ifT1OBH2ZqcVwvByFmosBkVEBf-Cc_9TDVh6lv5iaBk5hLXTfzqk1Ho6UG5tLADMj6x9txKtpP2u/s320/Year+at+a+Glance.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>It’s the middle of winter,</b> and once again we are astounded anew that water can actually freeze and behave so badly in gale-force winds. What happened to summer? And why, after living full-time on a 24-foot boat and crossing 10,000 miles of ocean, do we find the normally palatial digs of our 850 square-foot house confining?<br />
<br />
This is the time of year when most of us make big offshore voyages and fun coastal cruises—in our minds.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0SdvJwFIIS-8P1YyXvZQBSl0aEkPHWVYkDN81quU_xv7NMeA6KtjsGBGff-GpaVluM0h31TzBSxa6u72fquVVDlGaHTtrDuiOnW8m5IJbe6ZCEkAQqHMbM3qDBZt81lHkfIus35FD/s1600/huge+wave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0SdvJwFIIS-8P1YyXvZQBSl0aEkPHWVYkDN81quU_xv7NMeA6KtjsGBGff-GpaVluM0h31TzBSxa6u72fquVVDlGaHTtrDuiOnW8m5IJbe6ZCEkAQqHMbM3qDBZt81lHkfIus35FD/s320/huge+wave.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
We browse online for off-season sales of boat equipment, and we concoct work plans that will fall apart like melting ice as soon as good weather hits. Because, would you rather work on the boat or go boating? The adverbial clause sounds so much more <i>action-oriented</i>.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<b>Meanwhile, we do things like</b> walk the docks, stare at others’ boats while watching our frosty breath, we repair gizmos and make gilhickies in front of space heaters in our garages, and we plan for the next round of boat improvements. “Boat improvements” is the only phrase I know to have proven more potent than the previously most expensive four words on the planet: “While we’re at it…”<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfiZmDtUEl_gGMTy-uX2l4NN4cf-0fDb2itW7JwACqg24m4X118k6l67pcpX1wRAdX4kuWXn_NeNmnu5rnFzqxFh4X2KroET0kRcs4D7IRJM0hGeANuUbYq_hvqH9IN_d9IWiRy3Oe/s1600/I+used+to+have+money.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfiZmDtUEl_gGMTy-uX2l4NN4cf-0fDb2itW7JwACqg24m4X118k6l67pcpX1wRAdX4kuWXn_NeNmnu5rnFzqxFh4X2KroET0kRcs4D7IRJM0hGeANuUbYq_hvqH9IN_d9IWiRy3Oe/s320/I+used+to+have+money.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
If you’ve been following this blog for any length of time, you know that Jim and I don’t have much self-control when it comes to boats, and, very likely, neither do you. It turns out there’s a name for this nautical affliction: OCHD. Our friend Steve Stone at <a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/tour/" target="_blank">Off Center Harbor</a>, being the first to scientifically pin down this syndrome after years of study, has naturally named it for his company, which, if you recall the way stadiums are named for corporations, isn’t unusual except that this isn’t a stadium, it's an <i>affliction</i>. Oh well. Go, Steve.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW_apR9Jjb1QWvmI_Sg4GYYhmJQQx_tUf9nBYTi04E5lBfXyW_Y6XOqEpJcX7TmMVoq55QGJNSYl9ODyxrPlX_TpfyTO_tMTWHOFt2ssJxvcC6anT2MB8yyUrA08thnWMoPaxwaoQa/s1600/eat+sleep+sail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW_apR9Jjb1QWvmI_Sg4GYYhmJQQx_tUf9nBYTi04E5lBfXyW_Y6XOqEpJcX7TmMVoq55QGJNSYl9ODyxrPlX_TpfyTO_tMTWHOFt2ssJxvcC6anT2MB8yyUrA08thnWMoPaxwaoQa/s320/eat+sleep+sail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
So, in light of this new name for it, Jim and I wish to say, “Hi, We are Karen and Jim, and we’re addicts.”<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI0qVZJmrtXGO0Hf_SidN5v-Y0XXV_n0W2z7gCMb44mwjs_ElXYoeKXH0i_et2xUcQCu8BxGCF3FG-1WBts98esuOUf-Iy-ZaDMcbvVNmQKL4wmDFjU8qOmClJbSWYZNDTT95h7ZQM/s1600/sailor_brain.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI0qVZJmrtXGO0Hf_SidN5v-Y0XXV_n0W2z7gCMb44mwjs_ElXYoeKXH0i_et2xUcQCu8BxGCF3FG-1WBts98esuOUf-Iy-ZaDMcbvVNmQKL4wmDFjU8qOmClJbSWYZNDTT95h7ZQM/s320/sailor_brain.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Check this list of symptoms</b> to see if you, too, might be afflicted with OCHD:<br />
<br />
<b>1. Did you ever name a pet something nautical? </b><br />
<br />
Uh-oh.<br />
<br />
As a kid, Jim had an English setter named “Boots.” He says this was a family dog name, but come on, what’s a sailor’s favorite footwear at sea? He also had a turtle named Nellie Belle; okay, what rounded bronze item do sailors like to ring?<br />
<br />
My developing OCHD has been less subtle; I had a schnauzer named Sparks. Her full name was “Chief Petty Officer, Telegraphist Sparks, Royal Navy retired, SAH!” Being the ship’s radio officer, she was the reason I’d point to when people would ask, “Why don’t you keep your radio on all the time, I was trying to reach you.” I also taught her to salute. Yes, that’s possible with a dog. But <i>how</i> to do that is top secret. One day at a parade of sail in Alexandria, Virginia, a Vice Admiral came up to the boat and said, sotto voce and looking slightly embarrassed, “I, uh, hear that your, uh, dog, uh, salutes.” A small crowd of about 50 midshipmen gathered grinning around a quickly amassing row of officers whose brass was so bright I put on my sunglasses. “Yes,” I said, “she can salute.”<br />
<br />
“Uh, er, well,” said the Admiral, “We were wondering if she would salute us.” He gestured down the row of Admirals, Generals, Captains and Colonels. Sparks saluted them, and you never saw so many brass-laden arms snap to hat brims so fast. The Admiral smiled and said, “Uh, would you consider coming to my home and teaching my dog to salute? I’d like to be saluted when I come through the door each day.”<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1RIeN9ytK7zZsKFqSvKlTnjxlJwPS0ipa3WDLtaskOE5OO5bpNTfmuS3_BQukN04ByGunaAsrnvgleU0xyrW2ACS2629bemqCFeyJZVog9Irqt9rqQbQUfAyL6bepqut5KmD1E_a-/s1600/who%2527s+a+good+boy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1RIeN9ytK7zZsKFqSvKlTnjxlJwPS0ipa3WDLtaskOE5OO5bpNTfmuS3_BQukN04ByGunaAsrnvgleU0xyrW2ACS2629bemqCFeyJZVog9Irqt9rqQbQUfAyL6bepqut5KmD1E_a-/s320/who%2527s+a+good+boy.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>2. Do you dream about boats and sailing trips rather than working?</b><br />
Well, duh.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Do you shop endlessly for boats (or boat items) online?</b><br />
Being the epitome of nerdly boat geekness, Jim in no way can deny this. My OCHD predates online. Back in the Cretaceous period, the arrival of the Defender catalog, which was in tiny black-and-white letters on newsprint with even tinier photos, would trigger an extreme bout of OCHD. Obsessive poring would not begin to describe what I did over it for weeks on end, imagining where I would stow all that gear without sinking, and maybe I could take out a loan...<br />
<br />
<b>4. Is it harder to hear your spouse’s voice when you're around boats? </b><br />
We both have OCHD, so we’re balanced. <br />
<br />
<b>5. Do you take long mental voyages without untying from the dock?</b><br />
I myself have sailed across the Atlantic approximately ten thousand times, visiting all of its historic ports, including the Mediterranean—during the age of sail, which kind of passed me by a hundred years ago.<br />
<br />
<b>6. Do you spend hours fixing defects that are unnoticeable to others?</b><br />
Now see here, this is getting a little personal, don’t you think?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKUV9NqfQtHyGXZaIWk2BGNUeyu80gRiV7GS5YhkZVBMY8ktgkgOv-0bHdeAJfv7qYshMbXFePJ0LSaUSAHRwKNmL1-p7TV5IOdrxgPn7V3TtaqrUphgZVEwTeFRgSiZGTAMc1A25d/s1600/negativity.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKUV9NqfQtHyGXZaIWk2BGNUeyu80gRiV7GS5YhkZVBMY8ktgkgOv-0bHdeAJfv7qYshMbXFePJ0LSaUSAHRwKNmL1-p7TV5IOdrxgPn7V3TtaqrUphgZVEwTeFRgSiZGTAMc1A25d/s320/negativity.jpeg" width="312" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>7. Do you make lists of things related to boats? And do you make lists of lists?</b><br />
Possibly one of the most damning symptoms of all. Asking someone who is prepping for a voyage about this could unhinge them.<br />
<br />
<b>8. Do you have the ability to see boat equipment in store windows from half a mile away while simultaneously doing a U-turn faster than any landlubber can?</b> <br />
Of course you do.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6ufSDPcUbSM7_ZNNyWb0gaGiHZjhkC5VOTgc-8tdV1T2cLkv0GsUWh9lncHRVefn0xDypIOv-w66ufvA3WsIlvfHYyqP1cjOgFLS0gJG7kQT8d9aeUMf_XrdbJFnqT1Ty0nXc5IN/s1600/MIke+Mockford.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid6ufSDPcUbSM7_ZNNyWb0gaGiHZjhkC5VOTgc-8tdV1T2cLkv0GsUWh9lncHRVefn0xDypIOv-w66ufvA3WsIlvfHYyqP1cjOgFLS0gJG7kQT8d9aeUMf_XrdbJFnqT1Ty0nXc5IN/s320/MIke+Mockford.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>9. Do you have trouble with control of drool at boat festivals?</b><br />
Ever wonder why boat people like to dress so casually? Ever wonder why pirates wear scarves? This is why. <br />
<br />
<b>10. Do you love the smell of Stockholm tar, varnish, teak oil, and other things that are supposed to be bad for you?</b><br />
It’s not just that you love them, they transport you to an alternate reality. To heck with steak and lobster, these are the steeds you ride to olfactory bliss.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Treatment:</b><br />
Steve has suggested that someone find a Twelve Step cure, but so far all that’s been found is that those twelve steps lead straight down the dock.<br />
<br />
Hang in there, northern hemisphere peeps, the days are getting longer.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsBmF7M2zDtFtO4nAKeqSrTDydZxDiwx1HwKAN93YC9ggZYMqAKB7B0jMvp8Lqj1NZGfmoHL1QYdiH4unI5Ew1OLwtSxK5RijsDbWMjfUlrm020cFn2UPqfscTFA2GA9UE0GEDNO_A/s1600/Shovel+driveway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsBmF7M2zDtFtO4nAKeqSrTDydZxDiwx1HwKAN93YC9ggZYMqAKB7B0jMvp8Lqj1NZGfmoHL1QYdiH4unI5Ew1OLwtSxK5RijsDbWMjfUlrm020cFn2UPqfscTFA2GA9UE0GEDNO_A/s320/Shovel+driveway.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-90967690980383727502016-10-22T11:34:00.000-07:002016-11-07T10:01:29.718-08:00Turning the page<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOezIFWb1OQvVC9jXiVqi6gUBnI8bvM27eh8BTr9wwArr9Yj5NVBg_7laRF1Kj41YRxf24HeOS7IdkAn038HCOYUd-NIrnlC0skTdm_DAi8d2p1I0SQLzEpwkQSs5XCVz5COhyphenhyphennhow/s1600/1+sockdolager-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOezIFWb1OQvVC9jXiVqi6gUBnI8bvM27eh8BTr9wwArr9Yj5NVBg_7laRF1Kj41YRxf24HeOS7IdkAn038HCOYUd-NIrnlC0skTdm_DAi8d2p1I0SQLzEpwkQSs5XCVz5COhyphenhyphennhow/s320/1+sockdolager-2.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sockdolager leaves Port Townsend for her next chapter with her new owners, Dwight and Carmel. </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Sockdolager has been sold.</b> Our eyes mist over a bit, but we know her new owners will take good care of her, and she, in turn, will treat them well. May their voyages, no matter how large or how small, leave a wake of fine and happy memories, including lovely scenes like this one, that found Sockdolager anchored at Wolf Bay, where we discovered to our delight why it was called “Wolf.”<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD4iW4W_izxffHgpiAImtpbij7BkShpAWWGLpT11LXnAtb_pk-kUk9CvkE72F-4UMtS-NR2npeL4-okPXOHRCTKdxibJ9ZRe-__xAdbMAIRkxioxhynebp4FQ5SGkepMTAt-AbJXhyphenhyphen/s1600/2+Wolf+Bay-our+favorite+anchorage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD4iW4W_izxffHgpiAImtpbij7BkShpAWWGLpT11LXnAtb_pk-kUk9CvkE72F-4UMtS-NR2npeL4-okPXOHRCTKdxibJ9ZRe-__xAdbMAIRkxioxhynebp4FQ5SGkepMTAt-AbJXhyphenhyphen/s320/2+Wolf+Bay-our+favorite+anchorage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of our favorite secret spots. Shhhh.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Not counting six or seven dinghies, rafts, and kayaks, we are now down to two boats: Raven, and… did I mention that Jim bought a half-interest in a 53 year-old Thunderbird (26-foot racing sloop,) that with his buddies he races the living bejesus out of? Port Townsend has a large fleet of T-birds, and most of their owners are so gung-ho that Jim felt he had to go down to the docks last Saturday a couple hours before the remnants of Typhoon Songda were to hit, to make sure everyone knew the race that day was canceled.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBNzIApzt_fqWMLk_2ZPmF4Nq-LFeT6kYdnZnJFl3IcK1-uthDQMtJ7YQ70ofs2RcXLQ6ktLv5je40LJaBVcoH9XXe3KIU3rAsvmyb6aOGqxf2suWtcphEPNo46m6DeOjBnY5BLpgR/s1600/3+header-TBird1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="50" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBNzIApzt_fqWMLk_2ZPmF4Nq-LFeT6kYdnZnJFl3IcK1-uthDQMtJ7YQ70ofs2RcXLQ6ktLv5je40LJaBVcoH9XXe3KIU3rAsvmyb6aOGqxf2suWtcphEPNo46m6DeOjBnY5BLpgR/s320/3+header-TBird1.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thunderbird racing action. Jim's T-Bird is called "Thatuna."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Catching up:</b> Although much of the summer was spent on boat maintenance and getting Sockdolager ready for sale, (not to mention Jim racing in the T-Bird Regional Regatta,) we did have some spectacular cruises. In April our Colorado-based friends Tom and Alex joined us aboard Raven to Seattle, to greet the incoming Clipper Round the World fleet arriving from Qingdao, China.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8U2G968l1pSX6Ut76LF4k5H5VvPpLAkAzBQwMOsitgrmy2xyO8FrePFy3N8ra48IE9SjPIMjHcGTSssfGbQda_YFNSFDquaxjL1Q4lOmfNHUKE65bin8Hd6vTQGDGX1EoF6LLL4NY/s1600/4+Clipper+race+2015-16+legs.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8U2G968l1pSX6Ut76LF4k5H5VvPpLAkAzBQwMOsitgrmy2xyO8FrePFy3N8ra48IE9SjPIMjHcGTSssfGbQda_YFNSFDquaxjL1Q4lOmfNHUKE65bin8Hd6vTQGDGX1EoF6LLL4NY/s320/4+Clipper+race+2015-16+legs.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clipper Round the World Race legs. Crews said the North Pacific was the hardest.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Twelve boats, 40,000 miles, 9 countries, 3 great capes, 6 ocean crossings… wow! The four of us knew that the crews of these Clipper 70s were going to be exhausted after a 5,868-mile slog in the frigid, stormy North Pacific in March while burning an average of 5,000 calories per crew per day. Hm, we thought, what might such people need besides sleep?<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnYMt2fYiC5fv6IrXP9mrgR-IVDSKhocf3kjnbw8_mok0-8yHY91xBqchAPB2-S55lGBQ3IWn3JIxiFxnpUOZdgCP7rkhQuo8WGipW5Pb44pPh7zP6n8pmBaKN4e6chiE3gmKrqXO/s1600/5+Pizza+delivery.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnYMt2fYiC5fv6IrXP9mrgR-IVDSKhocf3kjnbw8_mok0-8yHY91xBqchAPB2-S55lGBQ3IWn3JIxiFxnpUOZdgCP7rkhQuo8WGipW5Pb44pPh7zP6n8pmBaKN4e6chiE3gmKrqXO/s320/5+Pizza+delivery.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pizza, of course!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://www.sailingtoday.co.uk/featured/interview-sir-robin-knox-johnston-sailing-suhaili/" target="_blank">Sir Robin Knox-Johnston</a> is the originator of the 20 year-old Clipper race. For those of you who haven’t heard of him, let’s just say that he’s one of the most major gods in sailing’s pantheon. He won the first around the world nonstop solo race ever, in 1969, and at 78 he is still one seriously bada$$ sailor.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqviGqzY3R7tDKugF4HdJj1js5ZFjJ-pNEaajUHFruxwsbEjrSjyWBKtKUSOhh_9Hr1w_F10kHlSJi58kLj7QuhdKvkvS0-hB2KycEpxLimKNXYE09VbrTCHxAQeelkiLX5G5gzd0C/s1600/10a+Tom+%2526+Alex%252C+Clipper+fleet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqviGqzY3R7tDKugF4HdJj1js5ZFjJ-pNEaajUHFruxwsbEjrSjyWBKtKUSOhh_9Hr1w_F10kHlSJi58kLj7QuhdKvkvS0-hB2KycEpxLimKNXYE09VbrTCHxAQeelkiLX5G5gzd0C/s320/10a+Tom+%2526+Alex%252C+Clipper+fleet.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tom, Alex and the Clipper fleet in Australia.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tom had raced aboard the Clipper boat “Garmin” from Cape Town, South Africa to Airlie Beach, Australia, via the southern route, and he participated in the Sydney-Hobart Race. Hoo boy, the stories that man can tell!<br />
<br />
Some of Tom’s friends were still aboard Garmin, and he was eager to see them. But… one does not greet such a fleet empty-handed, does one? Alex and I organized a shopping trip, and off we went to pick up goodies for the incoming crews… <i>ohboyohboyohboy</i>, we chuckled, <i>are they ever gonna be surprised!</i> Piles of food disappeared into Raven’s commodious storage spaces, even filling the dinghy.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgOqwGfbPs411aclVAlNmgtGRAX5JX8diyV0jxA-1tZk-BRZpoaXMTk1r44hl-dUnx9hdeeyDDJC4H0c3pcJmtMElKLNQJ_FKgLfePL4qTSXNBByEBKZyIoGTSXNTLuLGxjUQMCkWv/s1600/7+Pub+Raven3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgOqwGfbPs411aclVAlNmgtGRAX5JX8diyV0jxA-1tZk-BRZpoaXMTk1r44hl-dUnx9hdeeyDDJC4H0c3pcJmtMElKLNQJ_FKgLfePL4qTSXNBByEBKZyIoGTSXNTLuLGxjUQMCkWv/s320/7+Pub+Raven3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plenty of room for stowing extra food. We filled the dinghy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now we can hear you saying, wait a gol-durned minute, these race boats are coming INTO the land of the Big PX and you’re shopping for food? What were you thinking?<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Ambush.</i> </span></b><br />
<br />
Over the space of a week or so, we went roaring up full throttle to every incoming Clipper boat we could find, all of us honking and waving wildly, making Raven look like a boatful of spiders. SLOW DOWN! WE HAVE FRESH FOOOOOOD FOR YOU! we yelled.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXsGxLm-eE5DAtChDfnRzRO7iEP10Ne3ytd82TbPYRhqeB0yZoR2vu3PJ_J8EAtgZgVHUaKzmXhiiq7ZPdcOI2J3KBiq7jCht1lhRms8nmlm0-oSdjeBX1UG08o6UGd_3TPNLa0Jt4/s1600/8+Raven+trying+to+catch+Garmin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXsGxLm-eE5DAtChDfnRzRO7iEP10Ne3ytd82TbPYRhqeB0yZoR2vu3PJ_J8EAtgZgVHUaKzmXhiiq7ZPdcOI2J3KBiq7jCht1lhRms8nmlm0-oSdjeBX1UG08o6UGd_3TPNLa0Jt4/s320/8+Raven+trying+to+catch+Garmin.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven at full speed trying to flag down Garmin. Campbell Mackie photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Eager as they were to get in to port, their stunned expressions said it all as a boathook was extended from Raven’s bow to their sterns, loaded with bags containing fresh oranges, sandwich meat, cheese, bread, cookies, pastries, fruit juice, and pizza. EAT IT BEFORE YOU CLEAR INTO CUSTOMS, we meant to say, but that was not necessary.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7X_oV6mTIFsG1PkxNDXfdveorNEdRTcv4kr37XhbJRB-iUFzWDPjkFRoLuUxv7_HxWbhyCzY4oMnQBlDekbp0-su38VAGMCrfyy4AYxQ15YUhGBDEjHf9k2hjw4cmyiS8LZQJvAJX/s1600/9+Garmin+crew+ambushed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7X_oV6mTIFsG1PkxNDXfdveorNEdRTcv4kr37XhbJRB-iUFzWDPjkFRoLuUxv7_HxWbhyCzY4oMnQBlDekbp0-su38VAGMCrfyy4AYxQ15YUhGBDEjHf9k2hjw4cmyiS8LZQJvAJX/s320/9+Garmin+crew+ambushed.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garmin crew not quite believing their eyes. Photo: Alex Weaver.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We ambushed three Clipper boats about 10 miles north of Seattle, and later two more off Port Townsend. One of the skippers gushed in an on-camera news interview at the Seattle dock, “...and then there was this little boat that dashed out from shore and gave us PIZZA!”<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSut6P70zMGm80dMliHQTgb_LmfYvk0c-w74NFwmq-e5G9Q_q7jRxs1UOaXNEDuzrJ_sMs49UexhU14uz6_qzVvVVXZekr3Od6ilmarPKUdnu0zGvZ_UPKimJSTxR-LXPzGka7aA2d/s1600/10+Handoff+to+LMax.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSut6P70zMGm80dMliHQTgb_LmfYvk0c-w74NFwmq-e5G9Q_q7jRxs1UOaXNEDuzrJ_sMs49UexhU14uz6_qzVvVVXZekr3Od6ilmarPKUdnu0zGvZ_UPKimJSTxR-LXPzGka7aA2d/s320/10+Handoff+to+LMax.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The witty LMax crew eyeing the bag 'O food.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of the Clipper boats, LMax, had a French skipper, Olivier, who observed the food transfer and drily asked, “What, no wine?”<br />
<br />
“RED OR WHITE?”<br />
<br />
“Oh, white, sil vous plais.”<br />
<br />
We tossed him a Bota Box. “Don’t worry,” we said, “it’s good boat wine and it bounces!”<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjAzQrkp7LWa3AIB_XOHM6vUy_RnS9P_fX_ZylW_RKkADRh_Iq4KNHGc4K1ni_HmI8xsGdUWvZ1rzOpRcbVYDpZKOhA26lM6pqZHNZ7N3pQJ5IySoxyCWtk8Uaz79B82ZKNgZw25CJ/s1600/10b+LMax+at+dock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjAzQrkp7LWa3AIB_XOHM6vUy_RnS9P_fX_ZylW_RKkADRh_Iq4KNHGc4K1ni_HmI8xsGdUWvZ1rzOpRcbVYDpZKOhA26lM6pqZHNZ7N3pQJ5IySoxyCWtk8Uaz79B82ZKNgZw25CJ/s320/10b+LMax+at+dock.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The stormy North Pacific stripped the entire port side of this Clipper boat.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Knowing well in advance that Tom and Alex were coming to visit, we had started trying in January to make a reservation for April moorage at Seattle’s downtown Bell Harbor, where all the Clipper boats would be staying.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMrPazWPnBtgiJteiyeE9YCBrQH494IhkHo86lL0I_N0a-rQjcVk6-D1mFD9THllCKa7d6ZAiKAoDxNiKpJLEG8uLbTNkG5UgzTIoDRaDSy2cjcBbeen6uEP6ovv0WleACyr5TyRm6/s1600/11+Bell+Harbor+Marina+Photo+-+Port+of+Seattle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMrPazWPnBtgiJteiyeE9YCBrQH494IhkHo86lL0I_N0a-rQjcVk6-D1mFD9THllCKa7d6ZAiKAoDxNiKpJLEG8uLbTNkG5UgzTIoDRaDSy2cjcBbeen6uEP6ovv0WleACyr5TyRm6/s320/11+Bell+Harbor+Marina+Photo+-+Port+of+Seattle.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bell Harbor Marina, downtown Seattle. Photo: Port of Seattle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It’s too early, the marina staff said. So Jim called every week. Still too early, they said. Then: It’s too late, we’re all booked up. In one week? Rats, we said, and made plans to moor at Bainbridge Island across Puget Sound and take the ferry to Seattle each day. But on the day we arrived, we radioed Bell Harbor Marina to ask permission to drop off Tom and Alex and the family of another Garmin crew member. “Can we stay for an hour, just to see the boats?” Sure, they said. An hour later, Jim asked, “Can we stay for the night?” Sure, they said. You got the last berth, stay as long as you want.<br />
<br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: large;">Score!</span></i></b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCwWEhB3Pm_ZihC6Px3__KTD4fgZqeFvMeOaTvxALWPFmxxDA-SSjkh-sBnoEn3Pcszt4vOkIz-xdE75YWGwaD5LXvMEMJaRucwP-ZYsFooJ70b1w4MOZw5134kxTaBQ1hm4gcl4Os/s1600/12+Raven+at+Bell+Harbor+Mna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCwWEhB3Pm_ZihC6Px3__KTD4fgZqeFvMeOaTvxALWPFmxxDA-SSjkh-sBnoEn3Pcszt4vOkIz-xdE75YWGwaD5LXvMEMJaRucwP-ZYsFooJ70b1w4MOZw5134kxTaBQ1hm4gcl4Os/s320/12+Raven+at+Bell+Harbor+Mna.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raven at her duty station.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>We tied up among some bajillion-dollar yachts</b>, feeling rather smug. The thing is, Raven was on the main dock fairway, and everyone on the Clipper boats had to walk past us to get to the gate to street level.<br />
<br />
“Tom, do you think Sir Robin’ll be here in Seattle?” I said, gripping a well-thumbed first edition of Sir Robin’s book about that 1969 race, called “<a href="https://www.amazon.com/World-My-Own-non-stop-voyage/dp/0713668997" target="_blank">A World of My Own</a>.”<br />
<br />
“Oh yeah,” said Tom, “He always shows up at race stopovers.” And so begins the Tale of the Little Rogue Hospitality Boat.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj96-B9oBE22iRtMyZyR8bYcuC0a1WfMKXHnqcjSC7wnOZcqAQuJB3xMXpCjtSO917SHPSmib1FaNLKk0HO7dGxo-0z85kkZ6AZ9hqCnNzNVa1ehxZIBbF1FiNAW73MPjx1w73dRrcL/s1600/13+Pub+Raven+open+for+bidness.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj96-B9oBE22iRtMyZyR8bYcuC0a1WfMKXHnqcjSC7wnOZcqAQuJB3xMXpCjtSO917SHPSmib1FaNLKk0HO7dGxo-0z85kkZ6AZ9hqCnNzNVa1ehxZIBbF1FiNAW73MPjx1w73dRrcL/s320/13+Pub+Raven+open+for+bidness.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The world's only Temporary Floating Clipper Race Pub.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Alex and I each had our copies of Sir Robin Knox-Johnston’s book, so we lay in wait for him to walk down the dock. Here he comes, I said.<br />
<br />
Leave this to me, said Alex, and called out, “Sir Robin! Would you sign our books?”<br />
<br />
“Why sure,” he said.<br />
<br />
“Would you like to come aboard?” asked Jim, followed by, “And would you like a beer or glass of wine?”<br />
<br />
“Red wine, please.”<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1o_86B1W8Ev0FsvGl2hrWDfu-LGAYlfe7oN1p4D0Q4WX-ZYwiT7IVx7dOiV5SVEK8SxwImAVy-N6WLgRotWVqmcA1UTp4H79hhz9bGpc4J0HochxAQSqScfl6Wm5czJXACVHaWXZ/s1600/14+Robin+signs+books.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS1o_86B1W8Ev0FsvGl2hrWDfu-LGAYlfe7oN1p4D0Q4WX-ZYwiT7IVx7dOiV5SVEK8SxwImAVy-N6WLgRotWVqmcA1UTp4H79hhz9bGpc4J0HochxAQSqScfl6Wm5czJXACVHaWXZ/s320/14+Robin+signs+books.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Thus began an epic era in the annals of maritime history that did not end for three whole days.<br />
<br />
At first: “Sir Robin…” said Alex.<br />
<br />
“Stop calling me Sir, it’s just Robin,” he said.<br />
<br />
Okay, we said.<br />
<br />
“Have you got any more wine?” he said.<br />
<br />
So there we were, a gathering crowd listening to the man himself spin yarns late into the evening, over mostly liquid dinners. It was, to put it mildly, an astonishing development.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikajc8fnrrNPMWUFyxI3RGtYp7pGXI74XjeHwmKEOXNOaF5mQv22dDY93Ck3XaTXw-IceNQnX0ifY4zax2wPN3nQytmXSUBQ6dovIjEx2p4k6KvDWj8aDUTgp4L5cxuQxpS0K3psLq/s1600/15+Robin+spins+a+yarn+aboard+Raven2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikajc8fnrrNPMWUFyxI3RGtYp7pGXI74XjeHwmKEOXNOaF5mQv22dDY93Ck3XaTXw-IceNQnX0ifY4zax2wPN3nQytmXSUBQ6dovIjEx2p4k6KvDWj8aDUTgp4L5cxuQxpS0K3psLq/s320/15+Robin+spins+a+yarn+aboard+Raven2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
“I’ve got an old friend who lives in this area, Robin mused, “John Guzzwell, it’s been years…”<br />
<br />
“I KNOW HIM!” I exclaimed, then thought, <i>just call him. Won’t that be a surprise</i>. So I went below to call John, and he was pleased to hear from me. I told him who our guest was, and he said, “Oh, put him on, I’d love to talk to him!” So, walking up the steps from the cabin, I held out my phone and said, “Robin, John Guzzwell would like to speak with you.” He looked at me stunned, then looked at the phone and blurted, “Oh for God’s sake!” and reached for it. I laughed. They had a great conversation and we arranged to get these sailing legends together, two nights hence. For those of you who haven’t heard of John, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dy_Lg301bI" target="_blank">he sailed</a> the 21-foot self-built <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Trekka-Round-World-John-Guzzwell/dp/0938665561" target="_blank">Trekka around the world</a> in 1959. Robin told us that he himself had been utterly inspired by John.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaIuKAkkmSDivmmy71YJBy1BX6cIuZF6tfmSZDCEC9LkL54S5klLgZjqZWX3bWLQiWtIZUMrNrr58e2NY7dZwbUnmKKgE2c0TAUXq2ASPZvVdINssknirm-yhitITs5iNoGNTMwb3l/s1600/16+Qingdao+bow+reflection.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaIuKAkkmSDivmmy71YJBy1BX6cIuZF6tfmSZDCEC9LkL54S5klLgZjqZWX3bWLQiWtIZUMrNrr58e2NY7dZwbUnmKKgE2c0TAUXq2ASPZvVdINssknirm-yhitITs5iNoGNTMwb3l/s320/16+Qingdao+bow+reflection.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clipper boat Qingdao wins the beauty contest.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
During daytime, racing sails needed mending, so for the next few days Alex and I patched, sewed and glued a gigantic genoa, with sail palms and sewing awls. We put in more than a dozen patches.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJrjhf0LkcgKD-LabwwqcAsQkI-KLrEQRUlGyDfcUWuYdyS_JtY1c_UIjLDAphUF1QR_Z-cu4UMevQd8UL4jkXaQxUV0BxP5waq1kmhU-5X8RvC9RWEtM-x_2oytUc8dFTDzI2Yy_y/s1600/17+Makeshift+sail+loft.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="108" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJrjhf0LkcgKD-LabwwqcAsQkI-KLrEQRUlGyDfcUWuYdyS_JtY1c_UIjLDAphUF1QR_Z-cu4UMevQd8UL4jkXaQxUV0BxP5waq1kmhU-5X8RvC9RWEtM-x_2oytUc8dFTDzI2Yy_y/s320/17+Makeshift+sail+loft.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seattle's cruise ship baggage handling area became a sail loft.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Many sail repairs we could not tackle because the damage was too bad, so those went to the professionals.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThGxYU1178xKayN7fRGg2zIsQf7BxVBD-Wii54EqeB8LXgJ9gtT0tPEiTCZrESUI_DHNo5AHe7hi_ND6hIbZfyqtsVsv18i4XaY89qiSjnalf_5oXjHXoy6Glb7HnDybR6n_LFn0l/s1600/18+Garmin+clew+ripped+out.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThGxYU1178xKayN7fRGg2zIsQf7BxVBD-Wii54EqeB8LXgJ9gtT0tPEiTCZrESUI_DHNo5AHe7hi_ND6hIbZfyqtsVsv18i4XaY89qiSjnalf_5oXjHXoy6Glb7HnDybR6n_LFn0l/s320/18+Garmin+clew+ripped+out.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garmin's genoa clew ripped right out in a 60-knot gust.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg92Eqou7yTh6oECupRgZLUlATmT5b8P6HHMBZB6_kLidUCQLGOgHOkTLVeQFLrndI5x3kUvyGNane93fCiumhn0bel00EjakX0CnJUwRvIDX8rsSY1WrG06pFWMjlRv72XsYIEyBnn/s1600/Alex+repairs+sails.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg92Eqou7yTh6oECupRgZLUlATmT5b8P6HHMBZB6_kLidUCQLGOgHOkTLVeQFLrndI5x3kUvyGNane93fCiumhn0bel00EjakX0CnJUwRvIDX8rsSY1WrG06pFWMjlRv72XsYIEyBnn/s320/Alex+repairs+sails.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dr. Alex repairs sails. "Just like stitching up patients," she said.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Garmin was also one of three or four boats that broke their carbon fiber bowsprits.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLZF76twbyWGZFyhC0UJJVNFQa7Q_kr9aHfcWbvZSLCHV-6TmL_jR9Kc__XIQEPi-_jk0E_EaUhpq6QsUO4X-cewS6yGo76Gt0iy038mthPDRluHisiOBSgGd-tTGi1MCpVS4hACZ/s1600/19+Garmin%2527s+broken+bowsprit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLZF76twbyWGZFyhC0UJJVNFQa7Q_kr9aHfcWbvZSLCHV-6TmL_jR9Kc__XIQEPi-_jk0E_EaUhpq6QsUO4X-cewS6yGo76Gt0iy038mthPDRluHisiOBSgGd-tTGi1MCpVS4hACZ/s320/19+Garmin%2527s+broken+bowsprit.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garmin crew holds up broken bowsprit. All repairs were made during the brief stopover, but for the crews and race support staff it was a scramble.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There was plenty of damage after this exceptionally rough passage.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwMoqcehZwYgJ7f7NfPRI7wF50PiXshuarfmfns-JpAqnBNIXK2KlsMPNFKfbii0J0bHrsFa9iTttoP_1tisrLJ3nxuiw2bBemyt8YTzJy9ZpWbk87TkZ-AwQiypsczFjPi8Yz3Mg8/s1600/20+Bent+stanchion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwMoqcehZwYgJ7f7NfPRI7wF50PiXshuarfmfns-JpAqnBNIXK2KlsMPNFKfbii0J0bHrsFa9iTttoP_1tisrLJ3nxuiw2bBemyt8YTzJy9ZpWbk87TkZ-AwQiypsczFjPi8Yz3Mg8/s320/20+Bent+stanchion.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of many bent stanchions - this one was aboard Unicef.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On the first evening, the well-stocked Raven filled with sailors from around the world. Robin held court as everyone listened.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwVyknKOCC66cBXvztnhFNtJX_RDfOlJNAl7YknH-crwofHIQun8ggDIJhKYagBVb0CyjPmyI8IfEUElbs_m_FLwXFBVBp_icJN3bGzRHihEYhdGzbLxgSVGfoQy7PqvS5ZOuf9is9/s1600/21+RKJ+aboard+Raven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwVyknKOCC66cBXvztnhFNtJX_RDfOlJNAl7YknH-crwofHIQun8ggDIJhKYagBVb0CyjPmyI8IfEUElbs_m_FLwXFBVBp_icJN3bGzRHihEYhdGzbLxgSVGfoQy7PqvS5ZOuf9is9/s320/21+RKJ+aboard+Raven.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Around 7PM a couple of well-dressed men</b> stood on the dock and peered in. Come aboard! I said, but they demurred. What they wanted was for Robin to come to <i>their</i> boat, which was one of the bajillion dollar babies parked nearby, because they were all ready to host him. A collection of other equally well-dressed people were evidently waiting, too. Jim and I figured it must have been the official hospitality boat. <i>Uh-oh</i>, I thought, <i>we might be interfering with official functions</i>.<br />
<br />
“Right. I’ll be over straight away,” said Robin.<br />
<br />
An hour later, the envoy was back. “We’d like to INVITE you to come over to our boat,” they said, pointing. So Robin and his crew went, but were back aboard Raven within 90 minutes, and stayed until what in a pub would be called “closing time.”<br />
<br />
“We’d better buy more boxes of wine,” I said to Jim. “That was fun!”<br />
<br />
Our cruising friend Will Sugg could hardly believe it when I posted what was happening on Facebook, so he joined us for sail-mending over the next two days, and naturally, for the evening’s activities.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf5o04cueCNHdEHFsAWf6PMMS9BOoXkGm3t5B4mVVjc6cum-hLpIitVAjxbBPc4FR-rxJNxh4iwQ5fzHhWfj-TnHlRpPhyphenhyphen5iMeHs43gN6-9CRceaRHxcPPHViMmLmIPBUmSXC47uzm/s1600/22+Will+helps+Catherine+repair+sail.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf5o04cueCNHdEHFsAWf6PMMS9BOoXkGm3t5B4mVVjc6cum-hLpIitVAjxbBPc4FR-rxJNxh4iwQ5fzHhWfj-TnHlRpPhyphenhyphen5iMeHs43gN6-9CRceaRHxcPPHViMmLmIPBUmSXC47uzm/s320/22+Will+helps+Catherine+repair+sail.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Will Sugg helps Catherine, Garmin's crew in charge of sail repairs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Robin stopped by in the afternoon, pressed a wad of cash into my hand and said, “Take this. No arguments. I’ve been drinking up all your wine.” So each evening I filled Robin’s glass, and it was fuel for the best stories ever.<br />
<br />
<b>Around 7PM, THREE well-dressed men</b> stood outside Raven, but would not come aboard. “We were HOPING you might come over to OUR boat,” they said to Robin. “Be there in just a minute,” he answered. An hour later I whispered to Jim, “Here they come again, I think they hate us.”<br />
<br />
Next day, sail repairs, third night, more wine and tales aboard Raven, but this time there were two well-dressed men and one well-dressed woman in the 7 PM envoy. I was feeling sorry for them, but hey, it was party time on the good ole Raven. And not only that, John and Dorothy Guzzwell were aboard, and the Clipper crews who recognized them were amazed, and we’d ordered pizza for everyone and were all having the time of our lives. In this photo Robin Knox-Johnston, Tom Reese, Jim Heumann and John Guzzwell are discussing offshore sailing. Jim said later, “I was about to say how long and tiring our 37-day passage from Mexico to the Marquesas was until I remembered just in time, who I was talking to!”<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHKRAzCmNRuU989jPfCW_i8WZKgAHP_zl39gu1r1ke6mpu0q1DgqJvPPX7U43zP9yw2283FSndWb8wL4cRELIi56XgTwgr9yzAWvsN6m130H14EUSJ7EF5FkqEokV2HG8D2jZOrBO1/s1600/23+RKJohnston%252C+T+Reese%252C+J+Heumann%252C+J+Guzzwell.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHKRAzCmNRuU989jPfCW_i8WZKgAHP_zl39gu1r1ke6mpu0q1DgqJvPPX7U43zP9yw2283FSndWb8wL4cRELIi56XgTwgr9yzAWvsN6m130H14EUSJ7EF5FkqEokV2HG8D2jZOrBO1/s320/23+RKJohnston%252C+T+Reese%252C+J+Heumann%252C+J+Guzzwell.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robin Knox-Johnston, Tom Reese, Jim Heumann and John Guzzwell.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
“Really,” said one of the well-dressed men standing outside Raven, as nicely as possible, “We would like to have you come over to OUR BOAT. We have a fully stocked bar and hors d’oeuvres.”<br />
<br />
“I promise you, WE will be over soon,” said Robin. At this I was thinking, <i>nuh-uh, they don't want me, not in these Carhartts</i>. Just then, the “Visit Seattle” Clipper race boat arrived from China, and the entire Raven party, along with the bajillion dollar boat envoy, went down the dock to cheer them in. Speeches were made and Visit Seattle’s crew were whisked off to Customs to clear in, and when they came back down the dock we were dangling slices of pizza at them. The other boat’s envoy did not know who John Guzzwell was, so Robin explained it to them, in deservedly glowing terms, and the envoy invited him and Dorothy to their boat, too. By now they had stopped making eye contact with me, even though I was trying to tell them with my conciliatory smile, <i>we didn't steal Robin, he just likes it here</i>.<br />
<br />
As Robin, John and Dorothy were leaving with the envoy, I said, “We’ll see you later,” but Robin looked at Jim, Alex, and Tom, grabbed my hand and said, “Oh no you don’t, you’re coming with us!” So, like pirates at a Blackbeard barbecue, the entire Raven party boarded the bajillion dollar boat, and its owners were mighty good sports about it. Jim and I made an early exit (I mean, Carhartts and Gucci, <i>really)</i> but within 90 minutes the gang was back aboard Raven. “We drank them dry,” someone said.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9JHkMbty35l712YYL9_qG6iu8gQHvi67sFdyo2JGlGWgyU6fxGoqogzT8-YAuFnV3BUv9E5lmM4HJ6VxaXNdNkK5D7PABcZt_bjNVS8G7CZJ3tvV5IwE0dhmQCz3S8l1xORkp7m6H/s1600/YOGYC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9JHkMbty35l712YYL9_qG6iu8gQHvi67sFdyo2JGlGWgyU6fxGoqogzT8-YAuFnV3BUv9E5lmM4HJ6VxaXNdNkK5D7PABcZt_bjNVS8G7CZJ3tvV5IwE0dhmQCz3S8l1xORkp7m6H/s320/YOGYC.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sign stuck in Raven's window. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Earlier that evening,</b> we had told Robin that this would be our last night in Seattle, as we had to get back home. “You CAN’T leave!” he said, “What are we going to do without you?” So the evening grew merrier and continued, shall we say, “quite late,” with stories and yarns. At one point Robin was standing near Raven’s starboard (dock) side telling a story, and when we all crowded around him, the combined weight of all of us together caused Raven to heel over a little, and the next thing we knew, Robin was doing a slo-mo- backwards fall off the boat. But being the athlete he is, he managed to grip with his knees the boat’s rail as he went over, which softened his descent into what looked like more of a melting than a fall. He landed on the dock with his feet still in the boat and knees draped over the rail, <u>without spilling a single drop of wine</u>.<br />
<br />
There was a stunned silence. <i>Good god,</i> I thought, <i>the great Robin Knox-Johnston just fell off our boat. What the hell do we do now?</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirQVq-tFWAELC8ts6_0WvFOJoicTXBmIfg9JQA4-0MX9XRBVrXXg1sKHow7vIhT6pF0kIpI4lxBcaSQC7744W5NRdd6u_mDRA15ohZHP1EX2qt1xnjNZp7gORWJLKl3WJcq9oQCi-i/s1600/Robin%252C+Will+aboard+Raven.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirQVq-tFWAELC8ts6_0WvFOJoicTXBmIfg9JQA4-0MX9XRBVrXXg1sKHow7vIhT6pF0kIpI4lxBcaSQC7744W5NRdd6u_mDRA15ohZHP1EX2qt1xnjNZp7gORWJLKl3WJcq9oQCi-i/s320/Robin%252C+Will+aboard+Raven.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Will Sugg and others listening to Robin Knox-Johnston on the last night.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Without missing a beat he let out a laugh, which caused us a huge sigh of relief. Handing me his wine glass, he reached for peoples’ arms, and we pulled him back aboard, apparently none the worse for wear. A few more stories were told and we bid each other fond farewells.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggjGCxQLWho_iZ-PSf8rPUbkzODMSYQOigvajVkSWvgJ6rYmfwmqfOmihj60YgyKgpfwm8hyphenhyphenffwgt7hNb3WlqZ2v_7kB7BoG7vtbNg8cyd1xVHg3SYHXsF2WnxsKAZccPrwsjAQ-Pf/s1600/25+Karen%252C+Robin+and+Jim+-+Clippers+in+Settle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggjGCxQLWho_iZ-PSf8rPUbkzODMSYQOigvajVkSWvgJ6rYmfwmqfOmihj60YgyKgpfwm8hyphenhyphenffwgt7hNb3WlqZ2v_7kB7BoG7vtbNg8cyd1xVHg3SYHXsF2WnxsKAZccPrwsjAQ-Pf/s320/25+Karen%252C+Robin+and+Jim+-+Clippers+in+Settle.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen Sullivan, Robin Knox-Johnston, and Jim Heumann.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Since then, the Clipper boats have returned to England and are getting ready for the next round-the-world race. Guess who’s going to be on it? Alex. You go, girl.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii8Q3-ElKk_tFGL4m5OvL9c8pSciEk0ZjYpTO1gdFvVige1vScwiMiCufUYsKi6HgQxZayW_AnzmHnrBM7KIZozySfiWv1P0yAW_VTYbsOa1mR98k27-mtB1N4pgRStYCwOThOukGU/s1600/26+Tom+%2526+Alex.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii8Q3-ElKk_tFGL4m5OvL9c8pSciEk0ZjYpTO1gdFvVige1vScwiMiCufUYsKi6HgQxZayW_AnzmHnrBM7KIZozySfiWv1P0yAW_VTYbsOa1mR98k27-mtB1N4pgRStYCwOThOukGU/s320/26+Tom+%2526+Alex.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
NOt counting a few short jaunts, there were two more cruises this year, both to Canada via the San Juans, and another 4-day sail in the San Juans aboard the 137' schooner Adventuress, but we’re going to save them for the next post.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1is2BtfwIdwf_IaPeLPK-PXfnIV3Sgg-q6ErR8P5We-WRwhYpCBoD3mquhayfL_ICU0luXzXhrTZBdsyuHeXEPRnEQxP5e9sgL9iyVcjUICUw_4AZlD4wQo1VJA8FHcBQs53YjRPE/s1600/27+Kerosene+lamp%252C+book.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1is2BtfwIdwf_IaPeLPK-PXfnIV3Sgg-q6ErR8P5We-WRwhYpCBoD3mquhayfL_ICU0luXzXhrTZBdsyuHeXEPRnEQxP5e9sgL9iyVcjUICUw_4AZlD4wQo1VJA8FHcBQs53YjRPE/s320/27+Kerosene+lamp%252C+book.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-76734799245564890512016-08-07T15:32:00.000-07:002016-10-22T11:32:17.897-07:00Sockdolager, our Dana 24, is for sale.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVKTV1xBnG-HA8JzllmSzFzotzJ6YH8Fc34JdePakhsO4LEo9_fCfMKGJEGFWn0dRgmgIzcWp4soz0Vl_0V31wfhqKn-qSmLtkwuy7H64KFxa7LEClxu504x6URFG53KafTnN6U-y/s1600/1+K%2526J+sailing+Sockdolager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVKTV1xBnG-HA8JzllmSzFzotzJ6YH8Fc34JdePakhsO4LEo9_fCfMKGJEGFWn0dRgmgIzcWp4soz0Vl_0V31wfhqKn-qSmLtkwuy7H64KFxa7LEClxu504x6URFG53KafTnN6U-y/s320/1+K%2526J+sailing+Sockdolager.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo credit: Off Center Harbor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><i>Update: Sockdolager has been sold.</i></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>After many miles in the Pacific Northwest</b> and an excellent adventure from Port Townsend to New Zealand in which our dear little Sockdolager has carried us safely more than 12,000 miles, we find that we are no longer sailing her enough. So, we are putting her up for sale. As you can see from the photos, she’s compact but capable.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGxlFdhP3PaoCSQE2-GsM8oo579dYfp5dlObSB99B2gFA2tvKiIaNINb_a0g14Rsw48hJ_VtwY_IH4NWBbiUYRCk8Wix6esLeSX3bg-pljLKTB0T3XthwmvebD42_b0WgQt6LvYgC1/s1600/2+J%2526K+on+Sockdolager%252C+Fakarava.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGxlFdhP3PaoCSQE2-GsM8oo579dYfp5dlObSB99B2gFA2tvKiIaNINb_a0g14Rsw48hJ_VtwY_IH4NWBbiUYRCk8Wix6esLeSX3bg-pljLKTB0T3XthwmvebD42_b0WgQt6LvYgC1/s320/2+J%2526K+on+Sockdolager%252C+Fakarava.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim stands lookout in the ratlines as we thread between coral heads in Fakarava Atoll, Tuamotu archipelago in the South Pacific. Photo credit: S/V Vulcan Spirit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Sockdolager is a little champion</b> who’s meant to be sailed. With her shoal draft of 3’10” you can get into spots many larger cruising boats can’t. Here she is in a lagoon all to herself, at Aitutaki atoll in the South Pacific.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoNRHxnk8H-9ou-Wu_uruEHDZl5TwAc5OSfBkZ85VvZ82FWykhrlVK2QbHNOWEQ0XvpzBRFt8U3lVPndf5BuQ7lLqASm7FlVcVH3MPnWya7CEirgqe1259A3KGF-3grGS_bRjg1E9f/s1600/3+S+at+Aitutaki.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoNRHxnk8H-9ou-Wu_uruEHDZl5TwAc5OSfBkZ85VvZ82FWykhrlVK2QbHNOWEQ0XvpzBRFt8U3lVPndf5BuQ7lLqASm7FlVcVH3MPnWya7CEirgqe1259A3KGF-3grGS_bRjg1E9f/s320/3+S+at+Aitutaki.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our own private lagoon in Aitutaki atoll, Cook Islands.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We’ve been spiffing her up and she looks better than ever.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiOsZ6DsS7k5nG9iVZgL6jffeSnYHz86Y2N6KcHCZigrPT6-3dV9QQFP6IReUVyc2Y22i4yQqRY2jgA4YjgyQM6CNHBOiD2EXYQMcoLwDBlHngmF5XSj5fGHXmPK4UK0ro6qXiHBqH/s1600/4+S+fwd+hatch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiOsZ6DsS7k5nG9iVZgL6jffeSnYHz86Y2N6KcHCZigrPT6-3dV9QQFP6IReUVyc2Y22i4yQqRY2jgA4YjgyQM6CNHBOiD2EXYQMcoLwDBlHngmF5XSj5fGHXmPK4UK0ro6qXiHBqH/s320/4+S+fwd+hatch.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forward hatch detail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>She’s loaded with equipment;</b> we’ve made a lot of custom improvements as the photos will show (see also <a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/p/fiddly-bits.html">Fiddly Bits</a>). Her sails, standing and running rigging are strong, she’s documented for foreign travel, and she’s ready for a new Excellent Adventure.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgheeu6Cx0cOegh67ndGcTn8WcOqp3aIGhFxLINiCMAiW5toS8nFIqcda4Iy77vNWEBSq4VDiuJGjLZs4MQxjw3KisARlMD1ye9AZT_l-93ZAxhTcha4yHTnqTksEuJ4BvTh30ZVb13/s1600/5+Sockdolager+arrives+Fatu+Hiva.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgheeu6Cx0cOegh67ndGcTn8WcOqp3aIGhFxLINiCMAiW5toS8nFIqcda4Iy77vNWEBSq4VDiuJGjLZs4MQxjw3KisARlMD1ye9AZT_l-93ZAxhTcha4yHTnqTksEuJ4BvTh30ZVb13/s320/5+Sockdolager+arrives+Fatu+Hiva.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager arriving at Fatu Hiva, Marquesas after her Pacific crossing. Yes, K&J are looking stunned at all the greenery.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Specifications: 1987 Dana 24, “Sockdolager”</b></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfCmyhDXDN17lJbVRwdtnDsPwIpg7c8ZVG07uS_x9t8xIFSQxqBkRWuY45wslXlOGnMsKRnieIPH3Ards-oBnDM1YEPmdXMochms6n1vk9d_m-Ikrg01UVa0YzJNowhesByID3rtZg/s1600/6+Sockdo+haulout+October+2015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfCmyhDXDN17lJbVRwdtnDsPwIpg7c8ZVG07uS_x9t8xIFSQxqBkRWuY45wslXlOGnMsKRnieIPH3Ards-oBnDM1YEPmdXMochms6n1vk9d_m-Ikrg01UVa0YzJNowhesByID3rtZg/s320/6+Sockdo+haulout+October+2015.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager at her last haulout in October 2015</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Dimensions</b><br />
• LOA: 24’ 2” on deck, 27’ 3” with bowsprit, 29’ including wind vane<br />
• Beam: 8’ 7”<br />
• Draft: 3’ 10”<br />
• Displacement: 8000 lbs.<br />
• Ballast: 3200 lbs.<br />
• Headroom: 6’ 1”<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpP_kAM30q8Nn0fh6MJDULAbvMDmLZGD-KNwoXaH8fXowrZjAGDbXdeDZg5XOlJhCDUfxqfn3k4JXAQ1kz5QHLx8-qRBF54W7FDG9MJ2xCYcBC5dtg8Tyvmw2pJDlSvQT1SMeVZoay/s1600/7+Sockdolager+from+masthead2+low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpP_kAM30q8Nn0fh6MJDULAbvMDmLZGD-KNwoXaH8fXowrZjAGDbXdeDZg5XOlJhCDUfxqfn3k4JXAQ1kz5QHLx8-qRBF54W7FDG9MJ2xCYcBC5dtg8Tyvmw2pJDlSvQT1SMeVZoay/s1600/7+Sockdolager+from+masthead2+low+res.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Always a fun view. The 175-watt solar panel eliminates the need for a power cord or running the engine to charge batteries on all but the cloudiest days.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp1kFU5EZ6ts9fhmtbGZSP8g5SMYYZQn-uftJFdWYNmSZCtn1hQuxlSmxQ0Cu3qbDJyTZjiVkWm3JULctFUNvP5SWV_rzuADUnkLkTKTNVajWraHUlIzwE70EmyFIujHpAenAC_02I/s1600/8+PSC+Dana+24.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp1kFU5EZ6ts9fhmtbGZSP8g5SMYYZQn-uftJFdWYNmSZCtn1hQuxlSmxQ0Cu3qbDJyTZjiVkWm3JULctFUNvP5SWV_rzuADUnkLkTKTNVajWraHUlIzwE70EmyFIujHpAenAC_02I/s320/8+PSC+Dana+24.gif" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sail plan. Sockdolager is cutter-rigged with a removable inner forestay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvFnCfKTnK2CaJnUfiXEb08-RH2GlMGe27vQniOm-TlyX_aIOul-aIQ5DHTf4cusiMko0MXQPaLvTqKmwD7ZCEIR3feBUWkSkoihdha-VjGKfnagI3qRpBPqc7-P8d5F3V5dcutQnH/s1600/9+PSC+Dana+24+layout.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvFnCfKTnK2CaJnUfiXEb08-RH2GlMGe27vQniOm-TlyX_aIOul-aIQ5DHTf4cusiMko0MXQPaLvTqKmwD7ZCEIR3feBUWkSkoihdha-VjGKfnagI3qRpBPqc7-P8d5F3V5dcutQnH/s320/9+PSC+Dana+24+layout.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Layout schematic.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<b>Designer:</b> William I. B. Crealock<br />
<b>Builder:</b> Pacific Seacraft (1987)<br />
<b>Current location:</b> Port Townsend, WA<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmoSIq2sOWs7R313IP5Y-bezvyvFE_Yba7F3Mncm8EyMC2xSzhUWbq1ajFZr9PImyHqDIm2jUDQHj17KRBmzu9Ahe6xlt60QBAqt4QdlfGLmScwRELgDnikMK7ORXbDe3-Mwxre17H/s1600/10+Sockdolager+interior.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmoSIq2sOWs7R313IP5Y-bezvyvFE_Yba7F3Mncm8EyMC2xSzhUWbq1ajFZr9PImyHqDIm2jUDQHj17KRBmzu9Ahe6xlt60QBAqt4QdlfGLmScwRELgDnikMK7ORXbDe3-Mwxre17H/s320/10+Sockdolager+interior.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager's interior. For those Doctor Who fans among you, the Tardis may come to mind when you see the 6'1" headroom and gasp, "This CAN'T POSSIBLY be a 24-foot boat!"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Tanks</b><br />
• Fresh Water: 40 gallons<br />
• Fuel: 17 gallons<br />
• Holding: 15 gallons<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAf4AzKGENj2wbxvljMUlBE8xBUeu29E7UHE_V1-694VhtTEnQkCLytXWTeSDbN4YyPRIn26NjI1axiN-3U2GnpDuBdQYIwat9eCuEHvPwj6GIFOnJ0ts6R7Njbkp6oqJkR6hRayUU/s1600/11+Storage+under+cabin+sole.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAf4AzKGENj2wbxvljMUlBE8xBUeu29E7UHE_V1-694VhtTEnQkCLytXWTeSDbN4YyPRIn26NjI1axiN-3U2GnpDuBdQYIwat9eCuEHvPwj6GIFOnJ0ts6R7Njbkp6oqJkR6hRayUU/s320/11+Storage+under+cabin+sole.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A custom hatch gives access to a LOT of stowage under the cabin sole.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Sails: </b><br />
<i>All made between 2005 – 2011 by Hasse & Co Port Townsend Sails</i><br />
• Mainsail, 2 deep slab reef points (tanbark)<br />
• 110% roller-furling genoa with padded luff (tanbark)<br />
• Staysail (tanbark) with on-deck storage bag<br />
• Backstay-sail (tanbark)<br />
• Drifter (red)<br />
• Cruising spinnaker (green) with sock and ATN tacker<br />
• Storm trysail with on-mast storage bag<br />
• Storm staysail (white with visibility patch)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj14OBOfqkwvzVW4sult2cPLYPspgGZ9gqm7-MKihndfcBsBxmM4BW52gysSjVZtskBfcpsxxivoEf4b0zAgrJvRvFrYf2b6g1qscyBQT2zom6TYLVgROlOqPTKLMNeskCGdxcw5gjs/s1600/12+S+Off+Catalina+Island.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj14OBOfqkwvzVW4sult2cPLYPspgGZ9gqm7-MKihndfcBsBxmM4BW52gysSjVZtskBfcpsxxivoEf4b0zAgrJvRvFrYf2b6g1qscyBQT2zom6TYLVgROlOqPTKLMNeskCGdxcw5gjs/s320/12+S+Off+Catalina+Island.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing under reefed genoa, South Side of Catalina Island. Photo credit: S/V Silver Fog</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFSdBjwbntUmCYHr-iomCgsxo0-CyDey-fC88Do899ky_JGqkyrhUhBnGxe_3J-hC2RSA7u75SIat77qBoi-x32lR2cTzrSWAMdi-9u5XsZI9-4Yf3dceJwtCnY0hXw9ujhAwFS2CN/s1600/13+Sockdolager+drifter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFSdBjwbntUmCYHr-iomCgsxo0-CyDey-fC88Do899ky_JGqkyrhUhBnGxe_3J-hC2RSA7u75SIat77qBoi-x32lR2cTzrSWAMdi-9u5XsZI9-4Yf3dceJwtCnY0hXw9ujhAwFS2CN/s320/13+Sockdolager+drifter.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poled-out drifter keeps her moving in light air.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh4fdIL20LnVNshFyVJcoAGEPGYZf46N2yrcX-J_rQTJVz8FPBZ8ID5HC3rb9z8uRTUMBaLjZIfwf6ZnpYYJw4TZYo5gxtCvdxLM8ai0fujCXRvadcTtxHkoLodSQl7dUayRxwV8b-/s1600/S+under+spinnaker+2009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh4fdIL20LnVNshFyVJcoAGEPGYZf46N2yrcX-J_rQTJVz8FPBZ8ID5HC3rb9z8uRTUMBaLjZIfwf6ZnpYYJw4TZYo5gxtCvdxLM8ai0fujCXRvadcTtxHkoLodSQl7dUayRxwV8b-/s320/S+under+spinnaker+2009.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's the spinnaker; this is an older photo before we added the stainless arch and solar panel.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_2lwHrUtaWV8Cb5QizgvYRHocsQ0vurvxR9artVC2LZDOPNUND6nD41G3_CMBkFU-12iPgeNVXwBMImvakTDwlcB46M2XOujowtOPwFZelkAjctNC0eEsU-9JrHNEcwpL7aZ-Arp2/s1600/14+Storm+sails.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_2lwHrUtaWV8Cb5QizgvYRHocsQ0vurvxR9artVC2LZDOPNUND6nD41G3_CMBkFU-12iPgeNVXwBMImvakTDwlcB46M2XOujowtOPwFZelkAjctNC0eEsU-9JrHNEcwpL7aZ-Arp2/s320/14+Storm+sails.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storm sail inventory: Backstaysail, Storm Trysail, Storm Staysail.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Canvas: </b><br />
<i>All new in 2011-2012</i><br />
• Spray dodger with pockets for storage; roped edge to deflect drips<br />
• Custom pockets for reefing line storage<br />
• Cockpit weather cloths with line storage pockets<br />
• Full set of awnings with side panels to cover cockpit<br />
• Awning for underway (under boom) rolled up atop dodger<br />
• Sail covers, including on-deck storage bags for staysail and storm trysail on its track. Various canvas pockets for storing gear/assorted articles down below<br />
• Lee cloths on settee berths<br />
• Custom pockets for handy storage<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXFR-LaSDjomNAR4ThbacwOJvgTiUMAkf3gFtRRA2SP7lhNbsG3z5VMW502JxjQohe37cqpVA3ThW-lhkSi-C4E-3RHzgc1Sd_Ui87Ogy9O80lrWxM_5miWmoS4n27tEZJ-bhbAxHj/s1600/15+dodger+rope+%252B+water+bottle+storage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXFR-LaSDjomNAR4ThbacwOJvgTiUMAkf3gFtRRA2SP7lhNbsG3z5VMW502JxjQohe37cqpVA3ThW-lhkSi-C4E-3RHzgc1Sd_Ui87Ogy9O80lrWxM_5miWmoS4n27tEZJ-bhbAxHj/s320/15+dodger+rope+%252B+water+bottle+storage.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handy water bottle pocket. Roped dodger edge funnels drips away from cockpit and prevents chafe.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzrbPmj8xhsPkWI_MPAJRq6zDykZ5mIiMbWHS8PU3MZWVQwa7ZDpSSzhFd-as_vhc-qGxwqCpVTP_HzMGhopbX3Cv6bIgn_RRubqwfkoOlvxNI8IURaja4Bd8-1aJmo5IJp-KOogD7/s1600/16+Running+in+Trades%252C+cockpit+awning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzrbPmj8xhsPkWI_MPAJRq6zDykZ5mIiMbWHS8PU3MZWVQwa7ZDpSSzhFd-as_vhc-qGxwqCpVTP_HzMGhopbX3Cv6bIgn_RRubqwfkoOlvxNI8IURaja4Bd8-1aJmo5IJp-KOogD7/s320/16+Running+in+Trades%252C+cockpit+awning.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rollup awning for underway. Note low outboard motor mount to prevent interference with self-steering wind vane.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvXu6pPbvgVSDvUAKXKPgHdXdHAE_6c0rgM1DWwYom6ZZGF1QJL6ha0ABgZZklxh_k7vi501TbevxhbX1nFpafh88t7s48Vxn88EMspgIfakYaEqGUkNjvcE75w1ReDEVESe3isvNA/s1600/Canvas+pockets+in+head.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvXu6pPbvgVSDvUAKXKPgHdXdHAE_6c0rgM1DWwYom6ZZGF1QJL6ha0ABgZZklxh_k7vi501TbevxhbX1nFpafh88t7s48Vxn88EMspgIfakYaEqGUkNjvcE75w1ReDEVESe3isvNA/s320/Canvas+pockets+in+head.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Canvas storage pockets in head. You can never have enough of these.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNBxeD1mNuC_v-w2e-vPPn66TWrd9aca6p-u1a_S3rTm7zjOO0CxgTYb4BKPlr3nWUNT69gx_JvjJexdjtqy_la3KRgYyssL-lI_IuxWcNvgqCDHQ_GJbr6MJqHM2C8MRK1dDteqY3/s1600/19+Canvas+pockets+%2526+Thermos+storage.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNBxeD1mNuC_v-w2e-vPPn66TWrd9aca6p-u1a_S3rTm7zjOO0CxgTYb4BKPlr3nWUNT69gx_JvjJexdjtqy_la3KRgYyssL-lI_IuxWcNvgqCDHQ_GJbr6MJqHM2C8MRK1dDteqY3/s320/19+Canvas+pockets+%2526+Thermos+storage.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Canvas pockets and thermos storage at companionway.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Rigging & Hardware:</b><br />
<i>Sockdolager is a cutter rig with a removable inner forestay. Her standing rigging, including chainplates, was completely replaced in 2009-2010. Most of her running rigging is new.</i><br />
• All chainplates replaced with oversized bronze in 2010<br />
• Stainless steel arch aft of cockpit for solar panel<br />
• “StrongTrack” (Tides Marine) sail track & slide system<br />
• Separate storm trysail track<br />
• Harken jib roller furling system with Spinlock/Harken blocks on furling line<br />
• Aluminum spinnaker pole (telescoping) stores vertical on mast<br />
• 2 spinnaker halyards (port & starboard).<br />
• Hayne Hi-MOD compression fittings on 7X19 stainless standing rigging<br />
• Spectra running backstays<br />
• Easy-rig preventers<br />
• Pinrails and ratlines at shrouds; pinrails on stainless arch<br />
• Spectra lifelines & chest-high jacklines<br />
• Lewmar #30 two speed self-tailing sheet winches (2)<br />
• Harken #8 staysail sheet winches on cabin top (2)<br />
• Lewmar #16 self-tailing halyard winch (mast, starboard)<br />
• Lewmar #8 halyard winch (mast, port)<br />
• Bronze portlights (8)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj40oonkdW9xGAsFahCLOAmD5OUJp1ll_5KKEF5clQivBinErAg0NQNAOj4gEtaMYg4kCYtlBMp3lvcj6jO5oVqEubCjUloB_SQSHv_36s40l5Z9ku6LtZjFf6v5abKyXtbJ8vqf66V/s1600/Sockdolager+ratlines%252C+radar.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj40oonkdW9xGAsFahCLOAmD5OUJp1ll_5KKEF5clQivBinErAg0NQNAOj4gEtaMYg4kCYtlBMp3lvcj6jO5oVqEubCjUloB_SQSHv_36s40l5Z9ku6LtZjFf6v5abKyXtbJ8vqf66V/s320/Sockdolager+ratlines%252C+radar.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ratlines for climbing. Radar does not interfere with staysail or genoa.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6E2LYo4Iapbj-4BmoPphciZpYUBOGsS0zXan1h7che1SofkROAwBOGpYByuGOanniYTy7kMoObk23BGn6kcLUvuc54R_M7SjpdtCB4cfo591VDW45hyCD7-2BKXR2cdBGrmFXdSP9/s1600/19+Furling+line+arrangement.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6E2LYo4Iapbj-4BmoPphciZpYUBOGsS0zXan1h7che1SofkROAwBOGpYByuGOanniYTy7kMoObk23BGn6kcLUvuc54R_M7SjpdtCB4cfo591VDW45hyCD7-2BKXR2cdBGrmFXdSP9/s320/19+Furling+line+arrangement.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Furling arrangement for roller-reefing genoa. This allowed far less effort in furling in heavy wind.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkeKDaKF_R77UGBDjsBk08_6LkM2Ybk0bMUMktMznblA9WRb86t3ybuMGPN60z9fb15DEkBNM6pUekdHP_ZU9Jt0c36SyjwlakovCrtb6p-BVi58MNrWEAlvUskLI4pU8C-XdBWX7f/s1600/25+Another+use+for+ratlines+-+Moorea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkeKDaKF_R77UGBDjsBk08_6LkM2Ybk0bMUMktMznblA9WRb86t3ybuMGPN60z9fb15DEkBNM6pUekdHP_ZU9Jt0c36SyjwlakovCrtb6p-BVi58MNrWEAlvUskLI4pU8C-XdBWX7f/s320/25+Another+use+for+ratlines+-+Moorea.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An excellent use for ratlines.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Engine and batteries:</b><br />
• Yanmar 2GM20F 18 hp diesel, 2,415 hours<br />
• VETUS Single handle throttle<br />
• Leece-Neville 110 amp alternator<br />
• Balmar Max-charge multi-stage 12-V regulator<br />
• 2 100 AH Odyssey batteries<br />
• Purolator solid state electronic fuel pump<br />
• Racor 500FG secondary fuel filter<br />
• PSS Dripless shaft seal<br />
• Borel raw cooling water alarm sensor<br />
• Borel bilge alarm<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiec4rFeFzoyrwnunMgkQ7jvcHT5jrXWriBcANJQ79NdrR7aSzUB0yCfa0R9A4T8x564uSZ6BNFwoOpsINFy4QvXCQZemYVaiMbs92wd-wMhcDBC0RAT0wUhUaPe-coX37AYSqb3hzx/s1600/Engine+access+forward.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiec4rFeFzoyrwnunMgkQ7jvcHT5jrXWriBcANJQ79NdrR7aSzUB0yCfa0R9A4T8x564uSZ6BNFwoOpsINFy4QvXCQZemYVaiMbs92wd-wMhcDBC0RAT0wUhUaPe-coX37AYSqb3hzx/s320/Engine+access+forward.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Engine access from main cabin.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5tAhFfO1_v10aRBIXhqNzKB_-l_SInNNcXv-81v5ekJuTDNrMT5h6VBiYDGlnwhSQmOKBh-QNvUQi12Q1n9-65VBcXjLOAUkvhnFkCatAq9wyE4vVdmIrzi0ZIZMhmxfkXPwvbef/s1600/Engine+access+with+cockpit+cover+removed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5tAhFfO1_v10aRBIXhqNzKB_-l_SInNNcXv-81v5ekJuTDNrMT5h6VBiYDGlnwhSQmOKBh-QNvUQi12Q1n9-65VBcXjLOAUkvhnFkCatAq9wyE4vVdmIrzi0ZIZMhmxfkXPwvbef/s320/Engine+access+with+cockpit+cover+removed.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Engine access from cockpit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZduA8bvR_YTfpBdhoK9ax3TvH8_yESZYU96CHAYj8kdee_WHKzU5aKxUJJnXR5UjnPy3u1Scs5dvBc5mruIpOtq0TyxkqFV2VSU7-B7vvlaASEdCn1Kl3UitljSBgiHuxoMx9-QG/s1600/Cockpit+-+hatch+boards+%2526+removable+sole.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzZduA8bvR_YTfpBdhoK9ax3TvH8_yESZYU96CHAYj8kdee_WHKzU5aKxUJJnXR5UjnPy3u1Scs5dvBc5mruIpOtq0TyxkqFV2VSU7-B7vvlaASEdCn1Kl3UitljSBgiHuxoMx9-QG/s320/Cockpit+-+hatch+boards+%2526+removable+sole.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This photo shows the forward end of the removable cockpit sole, and custom companionway hatches. The bar across the front of the dodger houses the radar mount.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehdtFNtZZc2oXscVileXt7jZrvJNBh0eOaIuIxaQiGfOScnlKlitZ6Y_IRporoCjNKlKt5gnL2l3s6sSGykmZXt4dD41Ka4fSOcKoLY2OhsdwRnp82R77M0T4pSPiARbcKpIkQ_L6/s1600/Odyssey+Batts+strapped+down.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjehdtFNtZZc2oXscVileXt7jZrvJNBh0eOaIuIxaQiGfOScnlKlitZ6Y_IRporoCjNKlKt5gnL2l3s6sSGykmZXt4dD41Ka4fSOcKoLY2OhsdwRnp82R77M0T4pSPiARbcKpIkQ_L6/s320/Odyssey+Batts+strapped+down.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Odyssey batteries are strapped down.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlcjG3JnoWdfvX5oLw9PL_K18bCcA0_RrL9qd3yXE-wRyxGwxy_HpYEnUHD7Nj6uqW5a_Fc0qYNoVQHFdHIa2nV0AZFTV2xFu8IBtx3g2yqRRWlTqm8N0jEX2c8c8MP7hMasFIMb-L/s1600/Cockpit+engine+control%252C+cushions.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlcjG3JnoWdfvX5oLw9PL_K18bCcA0_RrL9qd3yXE-wRyxGwxy_HpYEnUHD7Nj6uqW5a_Fc0qYNoVQHFdHIa2nV0AZFTV2xFu8IBtx3g2yqRRWlTqm8N0jEX2c8c8MP7hMasFIMb-L/s320/Cockpit+engine+control%252C+cushions.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Single-level engine control saves space and confusion.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Self-steering:</b><br />
• Cape Horn “Varuna” wind vane with Spinlock power clutch blocks on tiller<br />
• Raymarine ST2000+ Tiller Pilot, Autohelm 1000 Tiller Pilot for backup<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaY0XsXVeYIeFFtkz5ODKuTcltchtsEmpN9zlrDp4rOUV5CBsNCaDJYlA7MgLf7Q1ZTy-oa4bt6QForLlg7OOpgYy7VXWowWgnoBgUuvAzViy6h2kOpVku8vDjV0RApSCou53Va5QE/s1600/Sockdolager+from+sbd+qtr.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaY0XsXVeYIeFFtkz5ODKuTcltchtsEmpN9zlrDp4rOUV5CBsNCaDJYlA7MgLf7Q1ZTy-oa4bt6QForLlg7OOpgYy7VXWowWgnoBgUuvAzViy6h2kOpVku8vDjV0RApSCou53Va5QE/s320/Sockdolager+from+sbd+qtr.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from starboard quarter, Cape Horn wind vane with custom platform visible.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<b>Navigation:</b><br />
• Ritchie Navigator 2000 compass<br />
• Garmin GPS 17X antenna for use with ICOM 802 SSB<br />
• Datamarine A-18o Log/control panel<br />
• Datamarine S-100KL digital knot meter<br />
• Datamarine S-200DL LCD digital depth sounder<br />
• Garmin handheld GPS<br />
• Weems & Plath clock<br />
• Weems & Plath electronic barometer<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8QZZ-xFSGVKTHnG6XhR00Oow9EZpvQx4R9yEQCqRiOnA5hTcqZTQ2x2BGiCDtYsXrWzC-W0pFKLcphKH7avYtFs0GcKae4nYJRLg_6SBYCoF__qW9fQ-rQc9NwgzKni-7leva4nvx/s1600/Cockpit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8QZZ-xFSGVKTHnG6XhR00Oow9EZpvQx4R9yEQCqRiOnA5hTcqZTQ2x2BGiCDtYsXrWzC-W0pFKLcphKH7avYtFs0GcKae4nYJRLg_6SBYCoF__qW9fQ-rQc9NwgzKni-7leva4nvx/s320/Cockpit.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cockpit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Electronics: </b><br />
<i>All new between 2010 and 2013</i><br />
• Solar World 175-watt solar panel on a stainless arch<br />
• Morningstar SunSaver MPPT solar controller<br />
• Magnum ME Remote Control 1000 watt Inverter/Charger with battery monitor<br />
• Various 110-V sockets<br />
• Newmar galvanic isolator<br />
• Standard Horizon GX2150 25 watt VHF FM marine radio with AIS receiver<br />
• Icom IC-802 MF/HF Ham/SSB radio with PTC-IIusb Pactor modem and AT-140 automatic antenna tuner<br />
• Simrad NSS7 broadband color radar with GPS and chart plotter<br />
• Fusion Sirius-ready marine stereo system with Bluetooth<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oKcvEICMKVpKa3C-sOzhWKmqEzDXGPG54LnlOD1dDiLQ3Fke6fSedWzT6xAPu6Ffve1xE9-8lYl-KzVFehVq3Jd4LwxI0uSr1s4s7AZYLqqPkUpM1f8I0t_g736BRDlVRoJiz53t/s1600/Sockdolager+instrument+panel.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oKcvEICMKVpKa3C-sOzhWKmqEzDXGPG54LnlOD1dDiLQ3Fke6fSedWzT6xAPu6Ffve1xE9-8lYl-KzVFehVq3Jd4LwxI0uSr1s4s7AZYLqqPkUpM1f8I0t_g736BRDlVRoJiz53t/s320/Sockdolager+instrument+panel.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Instrument panel, VHF radio & GPS above.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaOWPuzXrSPaY4Bvye4NnUihoKLsVhFfuApEiYMVvNt_z8h8t1Gr0IpeRa5supt9WqL52gQv848a8jX-AwL5sb21XpREVYv6v3e6_oLHqzdN8aoYx8pQfWC6BH3dhx-m_RBJqh7oWI/s1600/Fold-down+box+for+laptop+connected+to+Ham-SSB+radio.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaOWPuzXrSPaY4Bvye4NnUihoKLsVhFfuApEiYMVvNt_z8h8t1Gr0IpeRa5supt9WqL52gQv848a8jX-AwL5sb21XpREVYv6v3e6_oLHqzdN8aoYx8pQfWC6BH3dhx-m_RBJqh7oWI/s320/Fold-down+box+for+laptop+connected+to+Ham-SSB+radio.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Custom fold-down box for laptop that connects to Ham/SSB radio above it for email, weather faxes & GRIB files at sea.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Lights:</b><br />
All lights are LED (except steaming light)<br />
• Orca Green Marine masthead tricolor/anchor light with photovoltaic shutoff<br />
• Regular running lights for coastwise sailing<br />
• 4 brass cabin overhead lights<br />
• 4 brass cabin reading lights<br />
• Strip light in galley<br />
<br />
<b>Ground tackle:</b><br />
• 25-lb CQR anchor (bow)<br />
• 20-lb CQR anchor (bow)<br />
• Fortress FX-11 stern anchor mounted on stern arch<br />
• Simpson-Lawrence Hyped 510 manual anchor windlass<br />
• 30 feet of chain and 300 feet of 1/2” nylon 3 strand rope on main anchor rode<br />
• 10 feet of chain, 250 feet 1/2 nylon 3 strand rope rode in stern locker abaft rudder post.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGyCJkkVR7yHyLBl_VA-6Ymoa6HzcuRroA7Gi-0MnprVPG8KRvSOZJaN_sHxs3yaiJCu6IiqKy31i7VnIesHY3-NK_pwxpmEqrBWI6nuhWMxAnJ8AWiOZ1kN6AdXh2Pwm7GpILcPh4/s1600/S+ready+for+new+owner.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGyCJkkVR7yHyLBl_VA-6Ymoa6HzcuRroA7Gi-0MnprVPG8KRvSOZJaN_sHxs3yaiJCu6IiqKy31i7VnIesHY3-NK_pwxpmEqrBWI6nuhWMxAnJ8AWiOZ1kN6AdXh2Pwm7GpILcPh4/s320/S+ready+for+new+owner.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<b>Galley:</b><br />
• Force 10 propane stove with oven (new 2010)<br />
• Isotherm 3201 refrigeration system (new 2010)<br />
• Hand-operated fresh water pump with switch for automatic function<br />
• Hand-operated saltwater pump<br />
• Strip lighting for seeing into fridge & lockers<br />
• Galley safety belt<br />
• Custom seat for galley<br />
• Custom rope mat “ocean plait”<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Sh62slNzsqCQ0YXEthtRF7-tfAsKQvIHUY8KbCbq0mYy9iqZpGgs34Y8wmwCGihRScpO3i7dd-Z_0zpMTZ744t0GOEoSCWVwWEa7vJ-WANOG5mufG50q_kPaxG4Xv1eKm3kcu_1_/s1600/Sockdolager+interior2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Sh62slNzsqCQ0YXEthtRF7-tfAsKQvIHUY8KbCbq0mYy9iqZpGgs34Y8wmwCGihRScpO3i7dd-Z_0zpMTZ744t0GOEoSCWVwWEa7vJ-WANOG5mufG50q_kPaxG4Xv1eKm3kcu_1_/s320/Sockdolager+interior2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galley looking forward.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMtPWtxUUCZcJ3PtSpq-2sZ3Lto8IZPmQLcMQMB8eno08SGw0N-gyRoPsM1HTL-5-Q9pxqtnIhEJYmRlkqcwJfmSyNJncI70HzPwqWUbaaygzmVezlyNJgk8o3pmjeQUSKXUQZ6MtF/s1600/Sockdolager+galley.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMtPWtxUUCZcJ3PtSpq-2sZ3Lto8IZPmQLcMQMB8eno08SGw0N-gyRoPsM1HTL-5-Q9pxqtnIhEJYmRlkqcwJfmSyNJncI70HzPwqWUbaaygzmVezlyNJgk8o3pmjeQUSKXUQZ6MtF/s320/Sockdolager+galley.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galley looking aft.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVit05pUsjVwu0cNQvDRtXExA2BtO13v6PYBKOa_6Gibe2MrPpn5OkzrKkRICJVMIrxLFsQOsmxvo1gHJZuY9bcYUnN5ZhdB98f6SAlS3k9MhRtbt6WpaitzfMVepHkpo1-MWUV8_/s1600/22+Sockdolager+galley+seat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdVit05pUsjVwu0cNQvDRtXExA2BtO13v6PYBKOa_6Gibe2MrPpn5OkzrKkRICJVMIrxLFsQOsmxvo1gHJZuY9bcYUnN5ZhdB98f6SAlS3k9MhRtbt6WpaitzfMVepHkpo1-MWUV8_/s320/22+Sockdolager+galley+seat.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Custom galley seat for the cook when guests fill the cabin.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Head:</b><br />
• Raritan PHII marine toilet with 15 gallon holding tank<br />
• Head can pump into holding tank or directly overboard<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipAAyJBFNKHb8kEaBpwDQBt9UORIssfV6jyjfBWc_q4T7_3x5cOFwxXBTrw2HdhnQQcrb40MgWJGq1V5cHArmoqVRZIzvGa87ypc913mXYTYpWa-5CBit3HbAwb9caXtyrgy69TGfL/s1600/Sockdolager+head.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipAAyJBFNKHb8kEaBpwDQBt9UORIssfV6jyjfBWc_q4T7_3x5cOFwxXBTrw2HdhnQQcrb40MgWJGq1V5cHArmoqVRZIzvGa87ypc913mXYTYpWa-5CBit3HbAwb9caXtyrgy69TGfL/s320/Sockdolager+head.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Head. Custom shelving in locker behind head.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Cushions:</b><br />
• All new foam and professionally made upholstery cushions in 2011.<br />
• V-berth cushions divided athwartship for easier access to sail locker<br />
• HyperVent under V-berth cushions to prevent condensation.<br />
• Full-length cockpit cushions new in 2011<br />
<br />
<b>Safety:</b><br />
• All lockers, hatches, lids and openings fitted with “upside-down proofing” physical restraints to prevent opening. (See "<a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/p/fiddly-bits.html">Fiddly Bits</a>.")<br />
• Whale Gusher Titan bilge pump accessible in cockpit<br />
• Electric bilge pump with float switch<br />
• Special companionway seat for watch keeping<br />
• Davis Echomaster radar reflector<br />
• Custom horseshoe buoy<br />
• Flares<br />
• Custom companionway seat<br />
<br />
<b>Storage:</b><br />
• Cockpit coaming storage for small items<br />
• Cockpit interior locker shelves<br />
• Custom-made storage for companionway boards<br />
• Large sail locker beneath V-berth (cushion custom made for easy access)<br />
• Hanging locker converted to three large drawers for clothing and pots/pans, with “secret” compartment stowage beneath and above.<br />
• Two vertical chart storage spaces on either side of hanging locker drawers<br />
• Custom shelving in locker behind head.<br />
• Custom companionway steps utilize wasted storage space<br />
• Custom cutout in cabin sole utilizes storage space underneath sole<br />
• Custom storage atop hanging locker keeps items in place offshore<br />
• Custom Thermos storage on corner horn at companionway for easy reach<br />
• Custom fold down shelf for navigation laptop, with connections to SSB radio for downloading weather & emails<br />
• Custom storage box in engine compartment<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgpmWqV0xxRzre9VS1HEE3JAbcChGCpSzJBmcPu9aw6AL8vihXmwEcFbQhLig4KYICFPA2rmJ96-fUpA605LRfQereAPFCQSq8YjDZ0K17NxNkI6Srg_9OUNMOosmg9knXyczhzTL5/s1600/Hanging+locker+conversion.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgpmWqV0xxRzre9VS1HEE3JAbcChGCpSzJBmcPu9aw6AL8vihXmwEcFbQhLig4KYICFPA2rmJ96-fUpA605LRfQereAPFCQSq8YjDZ0K17NxNkI6Srg_9OUNMOosmg9knXyczhzTL5/s320/Hanging+locker+conversion.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hanging locker conversion. Vertical chart storage either side of drawers; hidden compartments above & below drawers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_9FiMgTV_tnhAgeUpAVMK49ywtk712qtQ7bjN1wkoKjC0TOwd5Gjn9hbU1QvVvnHNTkCSq6jazwpe6QK1g0KrdMYzIrmiSy8pAjDGtmS-_FX9XX0iNubfxWAgiK_Kb-QaH7J50QKR/s1600/24+Storage+atop+hanging+lkr.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_9FiMgTV_tnhAgeUpAVMK49ywtk712qtQ7bjN1wkoKjC0TOwd5Gjn9hbU1QvVvnHNTkCSq6jazwpe6QK1g0KrdMYzIrmiSy8pAjDGtmS-_FX9XX0iNubfxWAgiK_Kb-QaH7J50QKR/s320/24+Storage+atop+hanging+lkr.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storage area atop hanging locker is captured with this removable custom arrangement.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYiZtTQ95LvylH1wGTiI_piRO2-ZU2Qh-8MfMX_sBgqBjIwMr2xxwzwea_C_bEKxvjLcNzchTdT29SA7Ual8FkQtVnuNcIaXlUR7DxhgXAGsy2cG4cXcaIj_GQZM38AvIYdOmo5dYe/s1600/Companionway+steps+capture+space+%2526+hatch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYiZtTQ95LvylH1wGTiI_piRO2-ZU2Qh-8MfMX_sBgqBjIwMr2xxwzwea_C_bEKxvjLcNzchTdT29SA7Ual8FkQtVnuNcIaXlUR7DxhgXAGsy2cG4cXcaIj_GQZM38AvIYdOmo5dYe/s320/Companionway+steps+capture+space+%2526+hatch.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Custom companionway steps utilize wasted space, capture hatch in sole, and provide seats for galley and companionway.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4iwxTGBkNrPSE3i0C0OPSwmjYfVkXYxK4Njsp_nk6_ptbEDHQvuu7iuaWrOrH2J98vV99Cen45EytDmKOxEMTr86aF-vqYFBD3jnoyl2aVVrPDBhWpAQMYTU_4BYZfwI9Kh7-R03v/s1600/Step+lifts%252C+easy+to+check+oil.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4iwxTGBkNrPSE3i0C0OPSwmjYfVkXYxK4Njsp_nk6_ptbEDHQvuu7iuaWrOrH2J98vV99Cen45EytDmKOxEMTr86aF-vqYFBD3jnoyl2aVVrPDBhWpAQMYTU_4BYZfwI9Kh7-R03v/s320/Step+lifts%252C+easy+to+check+oil.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top step lifts to make checking engine oil easy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOmUs2xg-RdhccNrLHSXQ_fCOgkmkjaMDEJJTnRsBnzoujoic_ReO00MdmxiXDkx-PKRwNGGAn7doWtGpA3zc8AbRlkZPKuk4dInN1E_tQczpgl2C8ocxMQVc1h5vq-RxganWiISM/s1600/18+Canvas+pockets%252C+c%2527way+seat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOmUs2xg-RdhccNrLHSXQ_fCOgkmkjaMDEJJTnRsBnzoujoic_ReO00MdmxiXDkx-PKRwNGGAn7doWtGpA3zc8AbRlkZPKuk4dInN1E_tQczpgl2C8ocxMQVc1h5vq-RxganWiISM/s320/18+Canvas+pockets%252C+c%2527way+seat.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handy companionway seat for wet night watches or a mini-table for serving snacks to hungry guests.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRKDT1OXnpxf-oRHv6hBmMNyGOcPa5CPSj3mlDTgqeVZX_-D7Nf7fEcd79t3WsgQKSfJRsCE4qXLD3VZGdEJ5ZfbG_uKJuIcS2zJGygQ5p5oGhp5E4OoVMpgFzcRBFB6TkLZKjyavo/s1600/25+Sockdolager+interior+port.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRKDT1OXnpxf-oRHv6hBmMNyGOcPa5CPSj3mlDTgqeVZX_-D7Nf7fEcd79t3WsgQKSfJRsCE4qXLD3VZGdEJ5ZfbG_uKJuIcS2zJGygQ5p5oGhp5E4OoVMpgFzcRBFB6TkLZKjyavo/s320/25+Sockdolager+interior+port.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loads of storage in main salon, including behind and underneath settees.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcl1r9fDXL6hL2FhOfzTN4QAYVocP37VzrJLSXFKDxcM0_FyW_OHX7z98ltJhKEzDUjofAEJf3EZePHNT9AOUreMfMpr7VPawaqo31ad6buA8Z-fZ3zHCs5rGjSOIRfCZh_jTMrK7U/s1600/26+Sockdolager+drop-down+laptop+storage.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcl1r9fDXL6hL2FhOfzTN4QAYVocP37VzrJLSXFKDxcM0_FyW_OHX7z98ltJhKEzDUjofAEJf3EZePHNT9AOUreMfMpr7VPawaqo31ad6buA8Z-fZ3zHCs5rGjSOIRfCZh_jTMrK7U/s320/26+Sockdolager+drop-down+laptop+storage.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Second laptop storage area in pull-down basket for nerds who sail.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Misc:</b><br />
• Outboard motor bracket mounted low on stern to avoid interference with wind vane<br />
• Custom shelf on wind vane bracket for storing two 1-gallon jerrycans outside hull<br />
• All teak trim has been recently sanded and is ready for new owner's choice of finish.<br />
• Sockdolager has teak decks, which we liked for the good footing. Bung maintenance is up to date.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNX_9N_QYehFUYCzYydp2W0AxoQwhEb-b1AZQVSgGBAQdP4jrzMeupslayYgOTcnzEXDCmJRQPAXbQUVOuMGqnBxhGLKJvThuMVvMEF3Y0HZk2s3RRWSmb1cWvx3OHaeNIXsrRqvgZ/s1600/Offshore+Oregon+coast+gale+building.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNX_9N_QYehFUYCzYydp2W0AxoQwhEb-b1AZQVSgGBAQdP4jrzMeupslayYgOTcnzEXDCmJRQPAXbQUVOuMGqnBxhGLKJvThuMVvMEF3Y0HZk2s3RRWSmb1cWvx3OHaeNIXsrRqvgZ/s320/Offshore+Oregon+coast+gale+building.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Offshore in rough weather, 2011, the wind vane handling all steering.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Spares:</b><br />
• Large selection of engine, head, rigging, and other spare parts including spare tiller.<br />
<br />
<b>More about Sockdolager:</b><br />
• Coming soon: link to 3 videos of her in summer 2013 by Off Center Harbor.<br />
<br />
<b>More about the Dana 24:</b><br />
• <a href="http://bluewaterboats.org/dana-24/">Bluewater Boats review</a>.<br />
• <a href="http://www.ventspleen.com/pacific-seacraft-dana-24-review/">Review of a customized Dana that crossed the Atlantic</a> and is now in Europe.<br />
• <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssQ3w_PEEbE">2008 Transpac footage in a Dana 24</a>, from our friend Chris Humann<br />
• <a href="http://www.getlinkyoutube.com/watch?v=qKGupz_9mGc">Spectacular kite cam compilation</a>, also from Chris.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Price: $64,000</span></b><br />
Contact Jim at: jheumann(at)yahoo.com<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD96SCMnEss2EkJlS0M88Qq1fF42cmJ1VdJPIEBqkbTnqxuwaULFn_lMXHmOLsw36C_OQ1j06M7ltVdoq7-SujYOFWVJdbzeZkom34Q4w3eYyubopu5JpmV0Y9-fJpF3LLIrQNCijv/s1600/21+Sockdolager+at+anchor%252C+Moorea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD96SCMnEss2EkJlS0M88Qq1fF42cmJ1VdJPIEBqkbTnqxuwaULFn_lMXHmOLsw36C_OQ1j06M7ltVdoq7-SujYOFWVJdbzeZkom34Q4w3eYyubopu5JpmV0Y9-fJpF3LLIrQNCijv/s320/21+Sockdolager+at+anchor%252C+Moorea.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We wonder, where will her next excellent adventure be to? </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKo9meeiMOE7dP82OW4gyPBeR6y1XQIiYy-5eRIK_BTbriZF3vRGWAcBC-wvWyYgs38Z1ZsWHWJc_5CeAOIvM5AW_s6MFqruQtiTinwR8PffqUehTeM45jqqN701bU6ciWPD1zUdIC/s1600/20+J%2526K+nostalgic.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKo9meeiMOE7dP82OW4gyPBeR6y1XQIiYy-5eRIK_BTbriZF3vRGWAcBC-wvWyYgs38Z1ZsWHWJc_5CeAOIvM5AW_s6MFqruQtiTinwR8PffqUehTeM45jqqN701bU6ciWPD1zUdIC/s320/20+J%2526K+nostalgic.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kind of nostalgic here, but to everything there is a season. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-4728060511256290112015-12-31T15:40:00.001-08:002015-12-31T15:40:29.662-08:00A Year and Change<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_nuzSbX2gF8pZNMYWwJVXMj7-oMzC8wlMviZsB4nuqexM_6elIClL4tONr7qpdS1YeCZ_1egjZZG5gL6aaS1BbICU1IlwuNOz505cEV0pVvt6uNvCHKCc4T7_O-W1Dva234e9XODk/s1600/1+Moonrise+thru+the+fennel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_nuzSbX2gF8pZNMYWwJVXMj7-oMzC8wlMviZsB4nuqexM_6elIClL4tONr7qpdS1YeCZ_1egjZZG5gL6aaS1BbICU1IlwuNOz505cEV0pVvt6uNvCHKCc4T7_O-W1Dva234e9XODk/s320/1+Moonrise+thru+the+fennel.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<b>Happy new year. We are still going strong</b>, still in love with life and with each other, and enjoying the quieter comforts of home and community. Perhaps this is The Time Between Excellent Adventures. Sockdolager is snug in her slip after a haulout, Raven is snug in hers, winter gales blow, and cruising friends remain scattered to the four winds, or at home after good cruises.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKeuig8wHVgJ5HBZyC95q6l0sEttFjPF7A__SpgppRmKtwALJDigSOXxkJGApG8BBRg1cccja8Qu3oKnF3KvIKC6gIBtOgjia0sRnfZFPeJLUdS-YBZFAYYEw8WPKZoge2jlzPv4IF/s1600/2+Sockdolager+haulout+October+2015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKeuig8wHVgJ5HBZyC95q6l0sEttFjPF7A__SpgppRmKtwALJDigSOXxkJGApG8BBRg1cccja8Qu3oKnF3KvIKC6gIBtOgjia0sRnfZFPeJLUdS-YBZFAYYEw8WPKZoge2jlzPv4IF/s320/2+Sockdolager+haulout+October+2015.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager all spiffed up after her haulout.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
There’s been a year-plus hiatus from blog posts, but it has not been a year without writing. Or cruising adventure.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkDtmJwRDAZAonghPhG3jPTUj8dLh7ATt_829rg_kMdYT82i6NyOZpI9YwZMngljUMuxchfJfzcJ9ulGGS05qVdVna8V2VqdfJ6ZL5aB6LH0gWr3_E0XQ_rMPnGegF1hP1AIonfab6/s1600/3+Waugh+quote+-+quill+pen.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkDtmJwRDAZAonghPhG3jPTUj8dLh7ATt_829rg_kMdYT82i6NyOZpI9YwZMngljUMuxchfJfzcJ9ulGGS05qVdVna8V2VqdfJ6ZL5aB6LH0gWr3_E0XQ_rMPnGegF1hP1AIonfab6/s320/3+Waugh+quote+-+quill+pen.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>The book I've been writing since we returned from our Pacific crossing is complete</b>, undergoing revision and edits before being sent to a professional editor, after which I (K) will search for a literary agent, after which the agent will, I hope, submit the polished manuscript to publishing houses, after which there will be probably more edits and finally, a book! Self-publishing is not the route for me yet; this one will take patience and a nervous degree of perfectionism. There’s a lot of sailing in the manuscript, but also a life, warts and all.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgebwfTUU7RVHAdDy0Jrtps275ezl4mvRSvlAlyHXl_MeFqHO3Be499lOfF1ven8l8K8U-3pOtFdeytdl1TqMUo9EYd7Ugsdn_Q9pCyhOMAHvrIr3muMci8mIQSuBp3JBUkZ51sREO_/s1600/4+Thesaurus+cartoon.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgebwfTUU7RVHAdDy0Jrtps275ezl4mvRSvlAlyHXl_MeFqHO3Be499lOfF1ven8l8K8U-3pOtFdeytdl1TqMUo9EYd7Ugsdn_Q9pCyhOMAHvrIr3muMci8mIQSuBp3JBUkZ51sREO_/s320/4+Thesaurus+cartoon.jpg" width="284" /></a></div>
<br />
I love the word “manuscript.” It connotes the labor of pen poised atop paper, a handiwork inscribed, a physical sheaf of thoughts you can carry to a comfortable chair, to read and scratch margin notes on. Is manuscript still an appropriate word in an age where torrents of electrons bathe us, then disappear behind screen savers, or vanish altogether at unfortunately timed power outages?<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6F5HyIvGOB3KXpeDCJ5cMV0wW-SZG6bOZOgJ2aDRUDADRqtibPbSFYAigqK1bOZN77nik_jyX4MFPQiZ4ExcYLQNJuejiqyOsZOMXGCYeg9V4STb3YoPpghWoF4JMjOerQy-kVYC7/s1600/5+Manuscript.jpeg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6F5HyIvGOB3KXpeDCJ5cMV0wW-SZG6bOZOgJ2aDRUDADRqtibPbSFYAigqK1bOZN77nik_jyX4MFPQiZ4ExcYLQNJuejiqyOsZOMXGCYeg9V4STb3YoPpghWoF4JMjOerQy-kVYC7/s400/5+Manuscript.jpeg" /></a></div>
<br />
I’m re-reading a story by Edgar Allan Poe, called “Manuscript Found in a Bottle, in part due to the irresistible mystery of the title. Who wouldn’t be curious about that? At age twelve I had read it titled as “MS Found in a Bottle,” and had no idea what MS meant. Neither Microsoft nor MSNBC had been invented yet, so I thought MS meant multiple sclerosis, which I thought suitably odd for a Poe story. Had I known MS meant manuscript, it would have made the story even more mysterious.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKaDKMUFYQZL3YKUM-3Z9N5FCifavoBD1B00sJ_LTIj2PiXM525HNReoPotUrZIhPnDnjhi2hFpWOhXGvshMtPhKOVRaqIi06nWDzXJfmYHNC3VELJAhtrJ_QycphMzeOezXxTfUfi/s1600/6+Madrona+heart.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKaDKMUFYQZL3YKUM-3Z9N5FCifavoBD1B00sJ_LTIj2PiXM525HNReoPotUrZIhPnDnjhi2hFpWOhXGvshMtPhKOVRaqIi06nWDzXJfmYHNC3VELJAhtrJ_QycphMzeOezXxTfUfi/s320/6+Madrona+heart.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
Manuscript, the full word, still belongs to us because it’s a reminder to all purveyors of electrons. It reminds us of the many satisfactions of labor by hand, which sailors through the ages have also taught. To carefully work a knot, replace a piece of wood, or write words on paper forces one to slow down. To write is to feel the ink flowing, sometimes like blood – you’re moving at the speed of a sailboat through a sea of thought.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVlMloygpzRE27gcu4rSdz9N37pIlEciJ3LL3Jm7O5LMjm6DIONz-36-V6tfMunX-G33RuLKbGVCj_FSfvwXNRXWlVIfXFD46u5weKa7SF9mdP3aascH61H4LNYhuUjWu0e4h607pw/s1600/7+Raven+-+oil+lamp.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVlMloygpzRE27gcu4rSdz9N37pIlEciJ3LL3Jm7O5LMjm6DIONz-36-V6tfMunX-G33RuLKbGVCj_FSfvwXNRXWlVIfXFD46u5weKa7SF9mdP3aascH61H4LNYhuUjWu0e4h607pw/s320/7+Raven+-+oil+lamp.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
I sometimes do write with pen and paper, especially in the early stages. But when the torrent of words begins, I find the keyboard’s obnoxious clacking doesn’t make me miss quiet scribbling sounds enough to swear off computers. There’s no word flood insurance in the writing world. Anyway, this space is a blog, short for web log, something electronic that didn’t exist a couple decades ago.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdJiJpxUNJO6YL3mNKCA_rnE1VwCBO0hTr24qTITiZwuXlJVBHguPYXKTUIpUXpnwG-LQmJGCW6sa8kMn6UnOHRQUjES4lfIqYfpr6RRyDIws3Yeyjz3KD6OILLsiNuy-pIErvI9lK/s1600/Jimbob+does+Titanic2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdJiJpxUNJO6YL3mNKCA_rnE1VwCBO0hTr24qTITiZwuXlJVBHguPYXKTUIpUXpnwG-LQmJGCW6sa8kMn6UnOHRQUjES4lfIqYfpr6RRyDIws3Yeyjz3KD6OILLsiNuy-pIErvI9lK/s320/Jimbob+does+Titanic2.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim does his Titanic thing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>It’s also been a year of recovery</b>. There was more than one surgery, but now they’re past and all is well, we’re both hale and hearty as ever and making plans. We managed to squeeze in a 10-day early spring cruise aboard Raven to Vancouver, Canada, and anchored with our Canadian friends Marty and Mae amidst the downtown skyscrapers of False Creek.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDz2t9zgNPt48FPW-RRdJYUrrrpsQMdm3MVwRmRDSULyqKm7TtfA2_80a8szQnBEnbPakf_F2ntr_Elg6eLa1iinTgrjhyqBXUjrzp78w4cRbsJdBGFPV4vp8ay2Kqr6zbodIBeVw6/s1600/9+Raven+and+Wildl+Abandon+in+False+Creek.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDz2t9zgNPt48FPW-RRdJYUrrrpsQMdm3MVwRmRDSULyqKm7TtfA2_80a8szQnBEnbPakf_F2ntr_Elg6eLa1iinTgrjhyqBXUjrzp78w4cRbsJdBGFPV4vp8ay2Kqr6zbodIBeVw6/s320/9+Raven+and+Wildl+Abandon+in+False+Creek.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wild Abandon and Raven, at anchor in Vancouver's False Creek.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We first met Marty and Mae back in August 2009 in Canada’s “Outside Passage,” and they taught Jim not just how to fish, but how to <i>catch</i> fish. On a slight “misunderstanding” that caused us to think they’d entered a certain cove a million times (turns out they’d never been in there), we brought Sockdolager through some unbelievable rapids at narrow, rocky, Buchan Inlet, scaring the bejesus out of ourselves <i>and</i> them. A description of that nutzo day with 4 videos of that insane rapid is <a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/2009/08/back-on-canadas-mainland-and-heading.html">here</a>. A tamer reunion with jello shooters in 2010 is <a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/2010/08/life-in-slow-lane.html">here</a>.<br />
<br />
<b>On the most recent reunion,</b> Jim and I made, uh, er, the most classic newbie mistake: so much time had been spent at the dock getting the newly-purchased Raven ready for her first cruise that we neglected to, ah, um, well this is embarrassing… practice anchoring her. I mean, how hard could it be, right? A boat’s a boat, you drop the dadgum hunk of iron and back down.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHh2tak0iH1GA0yRPyOHarYoTFOBlqh8gNlcKUTNv99qXCp08tyqBs5rWVSulFA8qxnuArc-s7i-oZtPw0h_AQLQQDhndFHTp4b_mmGUhP2Z3Xd7HM1hnNPEHxMqwnKsy_d1Cbkvkc/s1600/10+Karen+in+wheelhouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHh2tak0iH1GA0yRPyOHarYoTFOBlqh8gNlcKUTNv99qXCp08tyqBs5rWVSulFA8qxnuArc-s7i-oZtPw0h_AQLQQDhndFHTp4b_mmGUhP2Z3Xd7HM1hnNPEHxMqwnKsy_d1Cbkvkc/s320/10+Karen+in+wheelhouse.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen does her wheelhouse thing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
So, we arrive in False Creek on a chilly March afternoon, clear customs, and chug upriver, 29 feet of salty, classic, head-turning gorgeousness, and now this is where I get to play Ms. Authentic Fisherman, by turning on our overhead “crab lights” to flash a hello at Marty and Mae, who are waving wildly, and Jim’s at the bow and before I can say, “Wow Sweetie, those are some mean-looking, fast-moving dark clouds!” a wall of wind and <i>hail</i> slams into us and Jim drops the hook and the boat goes sideways and I smile-yell to Marty and Mae, “IT’S OUR FIRST TIME ANCHORING!” and they go “WHAT?” and right then a dockline blows off the deck, wraps around the prop, and stops the engine. Yep. Right in the middle of a hailstorm.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih1Q65xb8pYBx2m6W_a74XzV-khBXQgQPeMn51Uugjp2JvqD_Vl1-_emeZxWF-rOxczgbK4B0zsOp90iX1WKxBOGmhRJ178e9bx_ZKcuYx_zhbN7VBd_SLmybx0mN5s6zacEIwmKBD/s1600/11+Puh-leez.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih1Q65xb8pYBx2m6W_a74XzV-khBXQgQPeMn51Uugjp2JvqD_Vl1-_emeZxWF-rOxczgbK4B0zsOp90iX1WKxBOGmhRJ178e9bx_ZKcuYx_zhbN7VBd_SLmybx0mN5s6zacEIwmKBD/s320/11+Puh-leez.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You did WHAT?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
We spend a few anxious minutes and get a second anchor ready to drop, but it's okay, the anchor's holding. But we can’t start the engine. Luckily, Marty happens to be a retired commercial diver! Unluckily, he doesn’t have his tanks with him and has to hold his breath. He comes up and says, no way I can do this, you’re gonna need a diver. Luckily, Jim finds one right away. Unluckily, the guy can’t make it that day. Luckily, we don’t need to use the engine. The diver comes the next day, tells us he’s never seen such a wrap, and frees it. He’s French, so we feed him excellent hors d’oeuvres. We celebrate with dinner.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMmn4tn7d21mkgX0poTRPgUrMB8RdsW7r2s3Hs5JBIuvmPDHIr-qep0miYdkHbG9P7QWJlPKRxwOLlcrGYOeAi64wvJuheBsIsHgJCnYJyQJM5slldHdYmt61a2eb22DwtpdLURrcG/s1600/13+DInner+aboard+Raven.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMmn4tn7d21mkgX0poTRPgUrMB8RdsW7r2s3Hs5JBIuvmPDHIr-qep0miYdkHbG9P7QWJlPKRxwOLlcrGYOeAi64wvJuheBsIsHgJCnYJyQJM5slldHdYmt61a2eb22DwtpdLURrcG/s320/13+DInner+aboard+Raven.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
It was a fun reunion, with dinners and long walks through art galleries, Chinatown, the Granville Island market, and along the waterfront. This is a great spot to come and hang out in the middle of a big city. You have to get a permit to anchor in False Creek, but it’s worth it, especially in the off-season when it's not crowded. Posted signs tell you how to get the permit.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOxstetaDRYBww15vS8eqeGLO6QVXZH7Hx71wile6AeOaU7qsceX1WImCcyY2Vd4WSS9IndtRuf8j-dGiSZu_AaDm7HI7bPqfrkhsCZuj7sa0pLlz65_fjRydZJQWY4oikDjLpdYPk/s1600/14+Map+-+False+Creek%252C+Vancouver.gif" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOxstetaDRYBww15vS8eqeGLO6QVXZH7Hx71wile6AeOaU7qsceX1WImCcyY2Vd4WSS9IndtRuf8j-dGiSZu_AaDm7HI7bPqfrkhsCZuj7sa0pLlz65_fjRydZJQWY4oikDjLpdYPk/s320/14+Map+-+False+Creek%252C+Vancouver.gif" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Crossing Georgia Strait during a brief window of fair weather, we slowly cruised along Canada's Gulf Islands. The solitude in March is wonderful; you have your pick of anchorages, such as this one at Montague Harbor:<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTaZyOLLdV1kTlmZ6yMEba30idITp0n8gxKAkbshuVUqKZ6W0hsIZH6upUCd_UeSn-K5xtlPQv9Yu_zTiLgLU87pIF-jrUo0_R_Xyp-YBek0UhGvabVJ8wbJWxsKzxQO6fS8oggmDe/s1600/Montague+Harbor%252C+March+2015.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTaZyOLLdV1kTlmZ6yMEba30idITp0n8gxKAkbshuVUqKZ6W0hsIZH6upUCd_UeSn-K5xtlPQv9Yu_zTiLgLU87pIF-jrUo0_R_Xyp-YBek0UhGvabVJ8wbJWxsKzxQO6fS8oggmDe/s320/Montague+Harbor%252C+March+2015.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
Sure it can get cold, but that's why it's not crowded. You can still take naps, just bundle up:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAD4sLi-obJmeZcD_xHX6dUZuK-ZPRGKOYTmvq8XtV_JZ_sPRH9T8l1HyzMHAMIRY_hfJZayVbrmcAhGpLIwnKaO3ZKD6T3UVF4w29r8IituT5dIRdtPPcXg9rQVLbbA41D8UWK47g/s1600/Napping+in+the+dinghy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAD4sLi-obJmeZcD_xHX6dUZuK-ZPRGKOYTmvq8XtV_JZ_sPRH9T8l1HyzMHAMIRY_hfJZayVbrmcAhGpLIwnKaO3ZKD6T3UVF4w29r8IituT5dIRdtPPcXg9rQVLbbA41D8UWK47g/s320/Napping+in+the+dinghy.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim snoozes in the dinghy as we cruise along.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
And talk about a party platform! Nothing’s more fun on a hot summer afternoon than to gather a bunch of friends and go anchor with other like-minded boats in front of the town dock where, each Thursday, a new band plays a “Concert on the Dock.” Raven’s secret weapon is her dance floor. Just put the table and chairs away, pop in the floorboards, and rumba! This photo was taken as we were getting the boat ready for a dock party:<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtYo-Dmd0yB_GjmYIWMUXoNlAPYaErt52lbM-fYC9-oFqUFCXsS21lh_c_OYKw9pB_ojjjfwA0wstu2k5yi2zE4E4r1wShhvE0wEhKnxTEAV1jEpGvcHRfchicqFSWdRSw3Jfo6Lpe/s1600/Raven+from+aft.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtYo-Dmd0yB_GjmYIWMUXoNlAPYaErt52lbM-fYC9-oFqUFCXsS21lh_c_OYKw9pB_ojjjfwA0wstu2k5yi2zE4E4r1wShhvE0wEhKnxTEAV1jEpGvcHRfchicqFSWdRSw3Jfo6Lpe/s320/Raven+from+aft.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Which brings us back to our dear little Sockdolager</b>, and an admission: two cruising boats is, for us, too many. Sockdolager is not getting sailed as she deserves, and our eyes are turned northward, to the Inside Passage, which can be cold and rainy.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHDn7Vq667MGIKUh3BxrhMReMXNtpPm62PNEhnn-eYGWFHNqTDm_i8kf8iDTYfGPo89hnz1RC_J7JGRYxrX7WV8GOLiabAAl8_nOYs-dL81EyeIXuV55omLW3anclxSUUJH0SgQuhr/s1600/16+Sailing+down+Fakarava+Lagoon.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHDn7Vq667MGIKUh3BxrhMReMXNtpPm62PNEhnn-eYGWFHNqTDm_i8kf8iDTYfGPo89hnz1RC_J7JGRYxrX7WV8GOLiabAAl8_nOYs-dL81EyeIXuV55omLW3anclxSUUJH0SgQuhr/s400/16+Sailing+down+Fakarava+Lagoon.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
Our aging bods appreciate a heated wheelhouse and the ability to dryly go to windward at six knots, and to fish for salmon and crab without wondering where to store the gear.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZEBx2sLB6dcP7ZXrqwDcibWvBsRkcwIZ0DckAwlxPdGy1HlfuXH5tEuYjJAJvU7ynIdiFCcC00gIWq_oNVeA5zMlZd2t9IcthxPFx2WijvSWPcGIm6CzfjgRuoaogehvHjKnPWyg/s1600/Raven%2527s+wheelhouse.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZEBx2sLB6dcP7ZXrqwDcibWvBsRkcwIZ0DckAwlxPdGy1HlfuXH5tEuYjJAJvU7ynIdiFCcC00gIWq_oNVeA5zMlZd2t9IcthxPFx2WijvSWPcGIm6CzfjgRuoaogehvHjKnPWyg/s320/Raven%2527s+wheelhouse.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
A new 10-foot sailing dinghy means we can still sail.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnpRxW7yth6ivKFfC6_H_yqPt_-87B0LGLFYjT7Ip8EvV493gRhlvVzeoVI9SWgb6W80HqVFCv5TRohgg4BGOVmle_iigaoIRzBA5g98HSNTgnnG-tUoPUisJnGUx7-rrrNQvoKoQ/s1600/Teach+Your+Children.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnpRxW7yth6ivKFfC6_H_yqPt_-87B0LGLFYjT7Ip8EvV493gRhlvVzeoVI9SWgb6W80HqVFCv5TRohgg4BGOVmle_iigaoIRzBA5g98HSNTgnnG-tUoPUisJnGUx7-rrrNQvoKoQ/s320/Teach+Your+Children.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
What I’m trying to say is that with much mixed emotion, we are going to be putting our beloved Sockdolager up for sale sometime in the Spring, and would like to see her go to someone who’ll sail, love and care for her as she deserves. With a ham/SSB radio, self-steering vane, and all her other offshore gear, she should not be sitting in a marina. She should be happily making new passages and having new adventures.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgHbCFobW-EzlGEdeI-qqDnvgyMBki923xhOpnI9B2YAHXZrrc-_olecKtv_LGON8lZCl7oqtBrLjO99DMwshVk5JRbno-c3qg1dBIf2BDMjjSP4CLf7RYtFHisJf0oST8N-XfnXQO/s1600/17+J%2526K+on+Sockdolager%252C+Fakarava.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgHbCFobW-EzlGEdeI-qqDnvgyMBki923xhOpnI9B2YAHXZrrc-_olecKtv_LGON8lZCl7oqtBrLjO99DMwshVk5JRbno-c3qg1dBIf2BDMjjSP4CLf7RYtFHisJf0oST8N-XfnXQO/s400/17+J%2526K+on+Sockdolager%252C+Fakarava.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager in Fakarava, the Tuamotu archipelago.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-52720497399084631062014-11-22T23:59:00.000-08:002014-11-22T23:59:13.541-08:00Call Me Squeamishmael<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLHpTXhOIN1yeURY0gH_uNiRvEqaeGHTc6JoUOfz4AROOgrZE02YjBzsAA6GqJuQpEPVh8BHAr5q_zO9hCEPSOErgnd2QE7lPuHWSfcYot1euWkw5jevayCjA_2WOklLdRAA_BBX4/s1600/perfect-storm1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLHpTXhOIN1yeURY0gH_uNiRvEqaeGHTc6JoUOfz4AROOgrZE02YjBzsAA6GqJuQpEPVh8BHAr5q_zO9hCEPSOErgnd2QE7lPuHWSfcYot1euWkw5jevayCjA_2WOklLdRAA_BBX4/s1600/perfect-storm1.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Why we're glad to not be at sea right now.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>As the gales of November</b> hiss through bending trees and
bring impossible amounts of snow to some northern latitudes, it might be a good
time to ask: what are your favorite summer memories? Was it that sparkling beam
reach on a warm evening? The chuckle and click of tidal water on a quiet day? The
spectacular fish or load of crabs you caught and shared with friends? Was it
the smell of loamy black earth on your hands as you gardened, or the sight of
crimson tomatoes emerging from green leaves like an organic Christmas tree, or
the astonishment at the gigantic rose that grew out of a leafless stick you
almost pulled because you thought it was dead?<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPifAp8f4TTqe0Jiu_Q49-jKqSS1ig6hh8gtUNbEOSYvfmjcMizkqLfbmC4qS5YhEJc2k4BaHBVTEPPaLJ_qBGkvO8eCHOL2oYMv-56PAL2GNsUQjGAo_XG6VYVrENTl-K038nzqjD/s1600/Improbable+rose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPifAp8f4TTqe0Jiu_Q49-jKqSS1ig6hh8gtUNbEOSYvfmjcMizkqLfbmC4qS5YhEJc2k4BaHBVTEPPaLJ_qBGkvO8eCHOL2oYMv-56PAL2GNsUQjGAo_XG6VYVrENTl-K038nzqjD/s1600/Improbable+rose.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the world of plants, this rose was a total optimist.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Maybe it was the satisfaction of a safe passage through fog,
and the pleasant low hum of quiet conversation drifting through the darkness
among boats sharing a peaceful lagoon. For Jim and me, it was all of the above.
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdchHfci_91P-Y3vhtWMecavA2pnxzjq_o2KeqrYFhoEMKPaeOoXn3DSaj0oYsa0yy5qZz81CluY2QI5Tub7LRMQlCRDJ1pXYsBHL9NyxwfyEPfD7dVizFhQMTjVQ6P2POKycgNPPQ/s1600/misty+day.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdchHfci_91P-Y3vhtWMecavA2pnxzjq_o2KeqrYFhoEMKPaeOoXn3DSaj0oYsa0yy5qZz81CluY2QI5Tub7LRMQlCRDJ1pXYsBHL9NyxwfyEPfD7dVizFhQMTjVQ6P2POKycgNPPQ/s1600/misty+day.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of those moments where you wonder, is it going to clear or get thicker?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Right now as the umpteenth Pacific low of the season moans
overhead, we think how grateful we are to not be at sea in such weather (hence
the title of this post.) While the woes of the world sometimes seem irreparable and the
rain keeps us more indoors than we'd like to be, right now feels like a good
time to slow down and reflect on what it is that keeps us all going, and remember what it
is we dream about when we’re not out doing the things we dream about. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIzQBZCaSmp8FKvGa5q0la7-itnu2ZyvjrCI9MJi5hlrPbVd8oJ_4FuBv60cmvT6qHUIXr7XGxCZT_adHAp1M8cnjr-agSneV25VMA1IM44jcwBxVHMgO2aq9QxS_gHLcvs-qMtT0/s1600/Tasman+Sea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIzQBZCaSmp8FKvGa5q0la7-itnu2ZyvjrCI9MJi5hlrPbVd8oJ_4FuBv60cmvT6qHUIXr7XGxCZT_adHAp1M8cnjr-agSneV25VMA1IM44jcwBxVHMgO2aq9QxS_gHLcvs-qMtT0/s1600/Tasman+Sea.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fine memory of the Tasman Sea. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Our last post was in August</b>, so we will catch up from there. One of the highlights of the sailing year for us is always
the <a href="http://nwmaritime.org/wooden-boat-foundation/wbf-history">Wooden Boat Festival</a>, held each September in Port Townsend, Washington. Jim
and I gave a Sunday morning talk called “Lessons learned from sailing a 24-foot
boat to New Zealand,” and were astonished at the size of the crowd that showed
up. Judging by the fun that was had, we’ll probably give another talk next
year.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFA32qh2EEUD6kLGeTQsjhQlUMkgAL_R1h3LthKY-gKH9QdFh1gKEszJ2PciNIodHql7tkUKrZD6NL8aGH-sM3s89bxZpB5hyphenhyphenVgjZwvIMkwQPzhhRZJrVGOn255CvL9PAJwePz2tsy/s1600/Good+days+and+bad+days.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFA32qh2EEUD6kLGeTQsjhQlUMkgAL_R1h3LthKY-gKH9QdFh1gKEszJ2PciNIodHql7tkUKrZD6NL8aGH-sM3s89bxZpB5hyphenhyphenVgjZwvIMkwQPzhhRZJrVGOn255CvL9PAJwePz2tsy/s1600/Good+days+and+bad+days.JPG" height="200" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were good days and not so good days...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some mighty big boats squeezed into Point Hudson. This is the Pacific Swift from Victoria, Canada.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFrfzreQ92_JukyQQKbBISNRUQocEGOkpcpDVYs0iECvXSGGgVCD71a1zJK8Vhz6-DOyaA1-d7JCJPaHuzX4azDHUuXc1q1dCVfjNQT_O6uJl7k4OBtlmZBol1K4kLNswlszmbwBnr/s1600/Pacific+Swift+at+WBF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFrfzreQ92_JukyQQKbBISNRUQocEGOkpcpDVYs0iECvXSGGgVCD71a1zJK8Vhz6-DOyaA1-d7JCJPaHuzX4azDHUuXc1q1dCVfjNQT_O6uJl7k4OBtlmZBol1K4kLNswlszmbwBnr/s1600/Pacific+Swift+at+WBF.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
Coinciding with all the wooden boat celebrations was the
annual ukulele festival. There is something so marvelous about a fine night of watching
a series of amazingly accomplished adults coax the most unlikely sounds out of
toy-sized 4-stringed ukuleles that the audience can’t help itself from
regressing to childhood. We had a nice reunion with our Boise-based ukulele-playing
friends Christian and Susan Petrich, and I smiled through an evening concert with
them as Jim volunteered to work at the Wooden Boat Festival, at the beer tent
near the music stage, appropriately named “Bar Harbor.” At the end of the
Festival there is a sail-by. Picture a river of 200 or so wooden boats, from
cute and tiny to huge and magnificent, all gussied up in shiny new coats of
paint and varnish and utterly delighted with themselves, sailing in a large
circle that goes out to Admiralty Inlet and back past town. Every year I say,
“It can’t possibly get better than this,” but it does. And then as we glided past town, a comedian who’d obviously read our last blog post sailed up to us and yelled, “I
know you!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’re famous!” We exchanged a
few nyuk-nyuks and I was still laughing an hour later.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This year, <u><a href="http://www.landlpardey.com/">Lin and Larry Pardey</a></u> were here, and they spent
three weeks before the Festival visiting boatloads of friends. Here’s a photo
of one of those sparkling beam reaches, with wine and picnic food aboard
Sockdolager, and with our friend <u><a href="http://www.mvlotus.org/">Christian Gruye</a></u> along. That’s the 137-foot
pilot schooner <u><a href="http://www.soundexp.org/">Adventuress</a></u> in the background.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA3TfP9to21wcx3ZZb6UGirzcmvNnD0XC_8pSWt42B1hUKA2SJYEuEWjKxUpO_o8wQvoEkoB2NykaHNS09pWRco7KTDj6N0hj1QX-HFrKmSsi5gOFx2qWIHw3T3-qssNQqpPlJFh-Q/s1600/Lin+and+Larry+aboard+Sockdolager.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA3TfP9to21wcx3ZZb6UGirzcmvNnD0XC_8pSWt42B1hUKA2SJYEuEWjKxUpO_o8wQvoEkoB2NykaHNS09pWRco7KTDj6N0hj1QX-HFrKmSsi5gOFx2qWIHw3T3-qssNQqpPlJFh-Q/s1600/Lin+and+Larry+aboard+Sockdolager.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lin and Larry enjoying an afternoon sail aboard Sockdolager</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And now, look how fast the sun has retreated south. The holidays are almost here.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj08gplfBFDr5FyWeXOzPGsgOnyLCRiOiSBbeHlJm0JEyNTi3jjf2QvJO5UuwUAlZ3se20TUFda3NYOKFKXx21EYQW2fSuOf5ASNtOxpyMdKbDpeq10iI_0X_qzvaLYskyV6Igdypwb/s1600/Turkey+humor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj08gplfBFDr5FyWeXOzPGsgOnyLCRiOiSBbeHlJm0JEyNTi3jjf2QvJO5UuwUAlZ3se20TUFda3NYOKFKXx21EYQW2fSuOf5ASNtOxpyMdKbDpeq10iI_0X_qzvaLYskyV6Igdypwb/s1600/Turkey+humor.jpg" height="222" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>With the hours of
daylight decreasing</b> to around 8 at this latitude (48 degrees north) and to 5 at
where I used to live in Alaska, it’s good to remember that in tropical
latitudes there’s a fairly steady 12 hours each of daylight and darkness, give
or take a little depending on how far you are from the Equator. Here’s a nice
little <u><a href="http://astro.unl.edu/classaction/animations/coordsmotion/daylighthoursexplorer.html">interactive graphic</a></u> that will show you how much light there is at
any latitude on any day of the year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Szilu2c61UcDEUSfXbx_F5mXyIGXIbGadvrwSSrik_Irxsaypb1miX_7hsQ6s7ep5LIHmxMCdVUBvR7rnFW2kThsMg5GqyMnUQQm8odcoYK4fVyc0sA-r_Pu7DC69JI3sq8Y7xQ3/s1600/Sockdolager+at+Ensenada+Grande+NP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Szilu2c61UcDEUSfXbx_F5mXyIGXIbGadvrwSSrik_Irxsaypb1miX_7hsQ6s7ep5LIHmxMCdVUBvR7rnFW2kThsMg5GqyMnUQQm8odcoYK4fVyc0sA-r_Pu7DC69JI3sq8Y7xQ3/s1600/Sockdolager+at+Ensenada+Grande+NP.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A favorite sunset scene. Sockdolager in Mexico, 2012</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Of course, those elongated summer sunsets we so enjoy don’t
happen the further toward the Equator you go. There, the sun rises and sets
fairly quickly, plunging rather than easing you into darkness or brightness.
For some reason I can’t fathom, I was thinking this morning about how in northern
latitudes the usual workday begins around nine and ends around five, which uses
the best light of day, but in places like Tahiti, where it isn’t light of day
but heat of day driving the cycle, you’d better get to the market well before
nine or the best fruits, vegetables and fish will have been picked over. In
Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas, the weekly market begins at four in the morning,
and it’s all over by six. This, combined with our love of long winter naps no
matter what the latitude, could be part of why we missed fresh vegetables so
much during our stay there. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
It’s been way too long since the last blog post, but I had a
bit of surgery in September and it took awhile to recover. Without going into
details, it wasn’t about the heart, the heart is fine, I’m fine and nearly back to
normal, and am glad it’s over.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3vIWY3yONRTsm6TAbfc2jJ-DIl22KzOLXaKsaw61cEGuFavioE3-qsMnWEewrIke2VIJs7DLZwQLsaM7TeyrDI1o66wwCM4khBGa8JX0npXD9D-Cpc6CwF2N7cPex5Aa0WMpMzc_/s1600/Shocking+news.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR3vIWY3yONRTsm6TAbfc2jJ-DIl22KzOLXaKsaw61cEGuFavioE3-qsMnWEewrIke2VIJs7DLZwQLsaM7TeyrDI1o66wwCM4khBGa8JX0npXD9D-Cpc6CwF2N7cPex5Aa0WMpMzc_/s1600/Shocking+news.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">AND NOW FOR SOME <b>REALLY</b> SHOCKING NEWS: </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Okay, a confession:</b> Jim and I ogled another boat.
Before we left to go on our Pacific voyage, we couldn’t help but appreciate the
salty lines and incredible craftsmanship of a unique 29-foot wooden vessel that can only be described as a fishing trawler loosely based on a Chincoteague skiff design from Howard Chappelle’s
American Small Sailing Craft, but with an irresistible dash of tugboat DNA.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has the kind of simplicity and ingenious
use of space and wood that only our friend, shipwright Leif Knutsen could have designed and built. The conversation Jim and I had in 2011 was one of those “I know,
but...” types, and went something like this:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Raven would be the perfect boat for our dotage, when we’re
too creaky to sail anymore.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I know, but we’re about to cross the Pacific, and we’re not
in our dotage yet.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I know, but we will be someday, and that boat would be
perfect.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I know, but we HAVE a boat.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I know, but it would be a shame to miss out on that one.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I know, and she’d be perfect for the Inside Passage to
Alaska, wouldn’t she?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I know. Just imagine a heated wheelhouse."</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I know, but we need to let go of it because we can't afford it.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Not to mention we’re leaving the area for who knows how
long.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I know.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Okay, ANOTHER confession:</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>we did more than ogle it. Raven was still for sale when we
returned from the voyage last year. We dithered and blathered and hithered and thithered and then decided
to buy her. I know. Two boats. Evidently we are going into an extended overlap
period. But I’ve done the Inside Passage round trip in a sailboat, which meant
standing in the rain while mostly motoring, for a thousand miles each way. We
are not selling our beloved Sockdolager… yet, but we couldn’t pass up the
chance to own the perfect boat for the dotage years. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What the heck, right? What are we saving for
if not to spend it on boats?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And don’t
try to pretend YOU don’t understand this if you’ve been following this blog. None of us has an excess of self-control when it comes to boats. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJJZZPJ_qCj8KGrMq3oIWhoJCP1x7M6omd63_V6phJn4fyAQUnrjiL-E2GB4TyJIdKezPtgTKLdRXxaGSxFi9e9AmJ3cv5hP7dGtf0ekHkZEtWjHnrPMi35QWIb8zk3dVApTK4vik8/s1600/RAVEN.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJJZZPJ_qCj8KGrMq3oIWhoJCP1x7M6omd63_V6phJn4fyAQUnrjiL-E2GB4TyJIdKezPtgTKLdRXxaGSxFi9e9AmJ3cv5hP7dGtf0ekHkZEtWjHnrPMi35QWIb8zk3dVApTK4vik8/s1600/RAVEN.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager's new sister, Raven</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4zO307pRGKO_L715iAVRQnAZf_tDu2PJGMrR7tncGO8eBAo0-QanbIggBe78iy7ecFa2vu54SqF_z7Vmi8Vtjv-x-QlKsfq4rbn5Jic6ZvYj2l6r140pHIfmnWCgW81AIqs7Q5TqN/s1600/Raven2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4zO307pRGKO_L715iAVRQnAZf_tDu2PJGMrR7tncGO8eBAo0-QanbIggBe78iy7ecFa2vu54SqF_z7Vmi8Vtjv-x-QlKsfq4rbn5Jic6ZvYj2l6r140pHIfmnWCgW81AIqs7Q5TqN/s1600/Raven2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of room for parties!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you happen to be a member of <a href="http://tour.offcenterharbor.com/">Off Center Harbor</a>, you can
have a video tour of Raven <a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/visit-aboard-wooden-motor-trawler-raven/">here</a>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>While we in the Northern Hemisphere hunker down for winter,</b>
it’s a good time to brush up on things like safety at sea, and the Cruising
Club of America has a <u><a href="https://www.cruisingclub.org/seamanship/seamanship_safety.htm">comprehensive web site</a></u> on the subject. And <u><a href="http://www.goodoldboat.com/">Good Old Boat magazine</a></u> has the third installment of a
6-part series I wrote on setting your boat up for solo sailing, in the November-December
issue. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9pZvG2cgTKoSnFhZ4topySiLaQc7XbemsqsxjfLD2quAbDMXl3p6PEzqzGv44qWhf7Cvj2eA7K2SJ2GwvXLKj-_i2ol1EF4WtobTJdkXW5EKhoNfMorcKGW1Oth-YFRr0GGsBgewD/s1600/Nov14_medium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9pZvG2cgTKoSnFhZ4topySiLaQc7XbemsqsxjfLD2quAbDMXl3p6PEzqzGv44qWhf7Cvj2eA7K2SJ2GwvXLKj-_i2ol1EF4WtobTJdkXW5EKhoNfMorcKGW1Oth-YFRr0GGsBgewD/s1600/Nov14_medium.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And as long as we’re at it, winter is a good time to take up
new hobbies, and what better hobby could there be than one that’s portable enough
to take along on your boat? I’m talking something that has given me years of
pleasure and that never fails to immerse me in the local surroundings in ways
little else can. I’m talking about bird watching. Imagine sailing along and
looking up and seeing a swift mostly-white bird with a black cap on its head, and
knowing (because you recognize what species it is) that this bird has just
flown ten thousand miles from Patagonia? How cool is that! And how cool would
it be to become proficient enough at identifying seabirds where you could
participate in citizen bird counts, which are sent to scientific agencies?
There is a movement to get more people on boats to become bird spotters who log
sightings, and you can read more about it at <u><a href="http://www.birdingaboard.org/">Birding Aboard</a></u>, a web site
I happened to stumble across. It’s full of fascinating articles. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Something else to think about next time you’re out
at sea:</b> what’s down there in the deeps? It’s fun to look at a chart and think,
good grief, the water’s almost a mile deep here, or, it’s shallow for miles and
miles, I wonder what lives in here, and then try to imagine what it looks like.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well, at least that’s fun for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">me</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjegkPc_dGU7kNsUPMYkJcGLo-JEiDjibMku66wWcGdK1lDjM331IMfcMYrSEtecs0BQdeB_3hR8ZKC2PYS_8uqd2sA2jPtAPohe0Y-jJmuaB6KRnRsRRT0QYN-5T2LaYIckH8SZqw/s1600/Deep-Sea-Vents-NOAA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjegkPc_dGU7kNsUPMYkJcGLo-JEiDjibMku66wWcGdK1lDjM331IMfcMYrSEtecs0BQdeB_3hR8ZKC2PYS_8uqd2sA2jPtAPohe0Y-jJmuaB6KRnRsRRT0QYN-5T2LaYIckH8SZqw/s1600/Deep-Sea-Vents-NOAA.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deep-sea vents. Photo: NOAA</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXMNlYDb7p2PmYyi_DbDOYxjtEnlyNWoZ3KH9p9Ho4VrlhjuZ-zNQpQEgkDPvPGoahgKjLd4Th5fUGzccT6Wi7wwcunw-dSuuaXzdSX1N7NJ1iAU02T6czywfnLKnA_Q38HR1DEoi4/s1600/NOAA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXMNlYDb7p2PmYyi_DbDOYxjtEnlyNWoZ3KH9p9Ho4VrlhjuZ-zNQpQEgkDPvPGoahgKjLd4Th5fUGzccT6Wi7wwcunw-dSuuaXzdSX1N7NJ1iAU02T6czywfnLKnA_Q38HR1DEoi4/s1600/NOAA.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deep sea floor scene. Photo: NOAA </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Google “photos of the deep sea floor” to get an idea of what
it looks like. While sailing over Monterey Canyon in California’s Monterey Bay,
we wondered what critters were swimming or crawling or growing beneath us, some
of which have never been seen before, as we glided across an underwater Grand
Canyon. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSWaouNuIQIWr4S7hXsM7kq1kMcsoysEDZXdV3SKRlukzJlXTnnQXD61mSfoW2W4sQQ9is2hcd5EeoXZTA1hTPgabqq1W_hCw7JUTiKtx6grBOdtaUk5J01_j8kWbeIFAgB8kGSRKn/s1600/container01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSWaouNuIQIWr4S7hXsM7kq1kMcsoysEDZXdV3SKRlukzJlXTnnQXD61mSfoW2W4sQQ9is2hcd5EeoXZTA1hTPgabqq1W_hCw7JUTiKtx6grBOdtaUk5J01_j8kWbeIFAgB8kGSRKn/s1600/container01.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Container in 4,203 feet of water, Monterey Bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
But there’s a lot of manmade stuff down there, too, and glimmers
of the effects of such debris are emerging. In Monterey Bay, scientists are observing
the impacts on the sea floor and subsequent colonization of life on some
shipping containers that fell overboard ten years ago. There are tens of thousands
of them at the bottom of various oceans, and it’s worth knowing about. Here’s a
<u><a href="http://montereybay.noaa.gov/resourcepro/mt/benthic.html">link to the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary’s article</a></u> on this. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Most of our friends who were in Tonga and Fiji </b>have arrived
in New Zealand, though a few remain in Fiji, which is in the midst of its
cyclone season.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwlH1VnhgHJfPwStDKPssaE8xubn642MFrQgIjhyphenhyphenaXmbSkmdqnypfthPqc0XTc-cbtJ1QhJxy8AYdSFpNwa3r5hC1XhtDimmv-wc04fHSgCzNjmXBwe6BxbGimzG5hnm9HL_oXHyqp/s1600/pacific.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwlH1VnhgHJfPwStDKPssaE8xubn642MFrQgIjhyphenhyphenaXmbSkmdqnypfthPqc0XTc-cbtJ1QhJxy8AYdSFpNwa3r5hC1XhtDimmv-wc04fHSgCzNjmXBwe6BxbGimzG5hnm9HL_oXHyqp/s1600/pacific.gif" height="229" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
An interesting take on
storing your boat ashore in a cyclone-prone place like that is to dig a deep
hole for the keel, and lower the boat into it so that it can’t fall over in
high winds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsK_Mgtu1zzzMpnDT0rIMR3l-CzezZKJNnDGjdRpoCrsZag6FSzMbsxUlaBV-9nUOFDrOExeovGLONq5ZjCx11BmiiStM-IddNoQjO9fRP2lqJ2ey85fN_XmUgs5KzZQ7bk2UQTyPk/s1600/jpgdOAu11IRsc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsK_Mgtu1zzzMpnDT0rIMR3l-CzezZKJNnDGjdRpoCrsZag6FSzMbsxUlaBV-9nUOFDrOExeovGLONq5ZjCx11BmiiStM-IddNoQjO9fRP2lqJ2ey85fN_XmUgs5KzZQ7bk2UQTyPk/s1600/jpgdOAu11IRsc.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boats stored with keels in holes so they won't fall over. Photo: <a href="http://blog.mailasail.com/wall/55">Toucan</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>And finally, Jim somehow managed</b> to completely take apart our corroded outboard motor, which had fallen into 25 feet of water back in Tonga but loyally hung in there for another year and only gave up the ghost when we arrived home. The most amazing thing is, Jim remembered how to put it all back together! All except for one washer, which rolled out of the way during reassembly and showed itself just as the cowl went back on. Even more amazing is, the motor runs without it! Maybe it was so grateful to not be made into recycled parts that it is now exhibiting this strange behavior:<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABjzQhrG4WL4fiyLK3vo7aiW676Me-N4gAhSaYmhHsHrk4UmxtWWF7Nf7TJNM7faBezlatEQ0h_TWnQ4rVcRQsoXpZk-EgQqsEOKkU0r9RKdHse7zM-sSM205lUNT1JGDLzZ0BYou/s1600/Always+salute+the+captain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhABjzQhrG4WL4fiyLK3vo7aiW676Me-N4gAhSaYmhHsHrk4UmxtWWF7Nf7TJNM7faBezlatEQ0h_TWnQ4rVcRQsoXpZk-EgQqsEOKkU0r9RKdHse7zM-sSM205lUNT1JGDLzZ0BYou/s1600/Always+salute+the+captain.jpg" height="320" width="202" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
</div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-11391957681907581682014-08-22T18:40:00.001-07:002014-08-22T18:40:23.020-07:00Right after July there's Fogust.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTXA6yKTiRdzSbfzAIyfe9rAVRyG7lHbXPjFGOOvZ8mlNmwngh-F_k34s4uzEhVaT6Z7VZ7fxvN9wg_zMv-G2wCEUNTgY67EfpgmvjcSvNu2y2ghwl4Z4sxAAAmhITNB3RC6TrBB64/s1600/1+Fogust+-+Tonic+in+the+Strait.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTXA6yKTiRdzSbfzAIyfe9rAVRyG7lHbXPjFGOOvZ8mlNmwngh-F_k34s4uzEhVaT6Z7VZ7fxvN9wg_zMv-G2wCEUNTgY67EfpgmvjcSvNu2y2ghwl4Z4sxAAAmhITNB3RC6TrBB64/s1600/1+Fogust+-+Tonic+in+the+Strait.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tonic crosses the Strait of Juan de Fuca with Sockdolager, in fog.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>“Contemplation is nothing more than </i><br />
<i>Pondering whether or not the sun is a nihilist.” </i><br />
<i> ~ Lo Fu, <a href="http://www.poetryinternationalweb.net/pi/site/poem/item/9229/auto/BEYOND-THE-FOG">Beyond the Fog, translated by John Balcom</a></i><br />
<br />
<b>We’ve been out buddy-boating in the San Juan Islands</b>, with our friends Carl and Patti Kirby. Two Dana 24s in home waters! Sockdolager and Tonic cut a wide swath of fun. It felt good to be back aboard our little floating home for a cruise.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYwbWAK5W9f9GCcqdsQDB3ahYEOh8_oHo2SwZQ1mBIV0ADa1kkVSecd3y3rgqop7bNZiiuvjeTsEjgflvzkLfjrNabLwhSu8PonQPG78KTgoWtBEdr-UImPLH4x-1eZKZm8aJTIFGt/s1600/2+Sockdo+interior.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYwbWAK5W9f9GCcqdsQDB3ahYEOh8_oHo2SwZQ1mBIV0ADa1kkVSecd3y3rgqop7bNZiiuvjeTsEjgflvzkLfjrNabLwhSu8PonQPG78KTgoWtBEdr-UImPLH4x-1eZKZm8aJTIFGt/s1600/2+Sockdo+interior.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager's homey interior.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>And - big news!</b> <a href="http://www.goodoldboat.com/">Good Old Boat magazine</a> is publishing my six-part series on setting your boat up for singlehanded (or shorthanded) sailing. The first installment of two articles is in the September issue, and you can read one of them, about mental preparation, for free by clicking <a href="http://www.goodoldboat.com/">here</a> and then clicking on "Sneak Peek" just above the cover logo. The series will run through the May-June issue.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQpgdmU_XZUW846kKLMW3i7LJvDjlNIwUggNQ7rcP8jIw83oDktux4IxSwvTP-sgGsz4sA0Q1uMaZjVmdDA16PU2ngcRAvRKFSjRbGHQxMMjHNPCPynW7AfvCOD38fqOu9-2ZiIOrB/s1600/Sept14_medium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQpgdmU_XZUW846kKLMW3i7LJvDjlNIwUggNQ7rcP8jIw83oDktux4IxSwvTP-sgGsz4sA0Q1uMaZjVmdDA16PU2ngcRAvRKFSjRbGHQxMMjHNPCPynW7AfvCOD38fqOu9-2ZiIOrB/s1600/Sept14_medium.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxqYzf-ZLGb3CQy8KfkVJi72iMrql9Oj4dvDaSF0JEnkLA4RsU7qGJ6L9fjIdZ-W8h80G-ozPsFvHjU9ruLL6nNa0pZfOvSCFP0RHVLvUhzCMslYsTr07olNPHGNVi5RXfNd01wvnJ/s1600/ChartSan_Juan_Islands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxqYzf-ZLGb3CQy8KfkVJi72iMrql9Oj4dvDaSF0JEnkLA4RsU7qGJ6L9fjIdZ-W8h80G-ozPsFvHjU9ruLL6nNa0pZfOvSCFP0RHVLvUhzCMslYsTr07olNPHGNVi5RXfNd01wvnJ/s1600/ChartSan_Juan_Islands.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Juan Islands.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Up here in the Pacific Northwest, people are more tolerant about inclement weather than people in most places I’ve lived, except for Alaska, where, once on a frigid day when 26 inches of snow fell sideways in 100 mph winds, the only concession made was to move the school district’s gym classes indoors. No, I’m talking about that murky maritime miasma, those industrial strength walls of airborne mashed potatoes that give this month its nickname in these parts. Fog from San Francisco to British Columbia is neither gauzy nor gossamer, it’s thick enough to shovel. But when it weaves its fingers through water channels among mountains, it’s beautiful. In fog you can sometimes see the wind blowing.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCTOJkArifCgDeKxO01so80_dqp3sZidmmloA1Lt59RbI0L5MU8GCmsCk4gC0uQ8bRJiHFQ6vJZg-_aAfrhWdRdfJsYosAY_bXtCMjW7Rz5giLOjaBvBNI6F7ML_WfqcgvIZYBc4XQ/s1600/3+Fog+beauty.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCTOJkArifCgDeKxO01so80_dqp3sZidmmloA1Lt59RbI0L5MU8GCmsCk4gC0uQ8bRJiHFQ6vJZg-_aAfrhWdRdfJsYosAY_bXtCMjW7Rz5giLOjaBvBNI6F7ML_WfqcgvIZYBc4XQ/s1600/3+Fog+beauty.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watching fog caress mountains.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Oddly enough, mists or vapors were once thought to be poisonous and to carry contagions such as plague and cholera. From ancient times to the 19th century, the “miasma theory” held sway over beliefs in Europe, China and India. It wasn’t until the discovery of germs and germ theory that the terrors of “night air” receded.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaoDOVQ79HzTmvAJlTvtK27UcQTSaDUBiAGWi6hZoiNvV5kX1aVgcageR7ZafmgK3gjCwTHQPu-umS1zUlVzp4qqYmXZQB4APl-LbBzEulape-wZKPTEn0bAICl0DaeE2iMtjMI5qI/s1600/4+Yeh+Ming+Tzu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaoDOVQ79HzTmvAJlTvtK27UcQTSaDUBiAGWi6hZoiNvV5kX1aVgcageR7ZafmgK3gjCwTHQPu-umS1zUlVzp4qqYmXZQB4APl-LbBzEulape-wZKPTEn0bAICl0DaeE2iMtjMI5qI/s1600/4+Yeh+Ming+Tzu.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yeh Ming Tzu, my teak folkboat, in Nantucket Harbor in the 1970s.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>But fog can still hold terror for the mariner.</b> I remember being lost in fog on my wooden folkboat back in the 1970s. Swift Long Island Sound currents carried us toward a small island with a big rocky shoal. I couldn’t tell which side of the island we were on, and, not wishing to be shipwrecked, found myself all ears, alert for the sounds of surf or ships, and ready with the fog horn. Also wishing for someone to please hurry up and invent a magic black box where you could press a button, and bingo! Your precise position, madam.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl-6yWtnJyDFZfpv-uBxT6eUpnwHcBcFt_ZXavQm-nvvDyzOMC-vrUs1cAqO2xnxl4GAa3yG4wKb057g8eQeQXukN4df8YrREmxEyfW_nJmKqRHN6gNODLRxTrgL_GfbG3EnNtc0Ib/s1600/5+die+young+as+late+as+possible.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl-6yWtnJyDFZfpv-uBxT6eUpnwHcBcFt_ZXavQm-nvvDyzOMC-vrUs1cAqO2xnxl4GAa3yG4wKb057g8eQeQXukN4df8YrREmxEyfW_nJmKqRHN6gNODLRxTrgL_GfbG3EnNtc0Ib/s1600/5+die+young+as+late+as+possible.jpg" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
My radio direction finder gave me only one “null” when its swivel top pointed at the lone beacon ten miles away, and I needed a second null to cross with it to update my position. Grabbing one of those small transistor radios the size of a pack of cigarettes that teenagers used to hold to their ears, I tuned it to <a href="http://www.nyradioarchive.com/wabc.html">WABC</a> AM radio in New York, and when that station’s strong signal grew weak as I rotated the radio, it gave me the second null. <i>Thank you, Cousin Brucie</i><a href="http://www.nyradioarchive.com/wabc.html">,</a> I whispered, and plotted our position.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8lMLEgqUKaGSeoln3ABmislAX6YjaB_tIR9lTQT8RPtGXx6EfqhR_25nLNad9V3AQUQVnoCnfUDW1ZYoiGUVzT9Gv1FhZiCvdZ0DEbwPTQP8MYp4iEyI4oWDGyZOdgpmNsfwY0UPw/s1600/6+Fog+in+Deception+Pass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8lMLEgqUKaGSeoln3ABmislAX6YjaB_tIR9lTQT8RPtGXx6EfqhR_25nLNad9V3AQUQVnoCnfUDW1ZYoiGUVzT9Gv1FhZiCvdZ0DEbwPTQP8MYp4iEyI4oWDGyZOdgpmNsfwY0UPw/s1600/6+Fog+in+Deception+Pass.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eastern entrance to Deception Pass, fog pouring through.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now there’s miniaturized GPS and radar and other delights, but the way fog always made me feel back then is etched in my memory. The photo above is of the eastern entrance to Deception Pass, four days ago. Currents can get to 6 ½ knots, so we timed it for slack water. At the other end was a 50-foot powerboat barreling along at flank speed. Yeeks! Our new broadband radar picked it out like an approaching cannonball, and we were ready with fog horn, lights blazing and a right proper stinkeye when it swerved into view.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3gsvu0Ook03eDjGKnNjh5zJjEMSzbIZInYAYNIVU7yO9CTPQmx2CHPSjRhgY9TEIkCbCOC5bi-zMrSIN2k0Y0wEwOwhqpY_mzgFE_loZcYwibBxAoM7qqt015dnEMNL6rW9vrCD4g/s1600/4+Tonic+emerges+from+fog+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3gsvu0Ook03eDjGKnNjh5zJjEMSzbIZInYAYNIVU7yO9CTPQmx2CHPSjRhgY9TEIkCbCOC5bi-zMrSIN2k0Y0wEwOwhqpY_mzgFE_loZcYwibBxAoM7qqt015dnEMNL6rW9vrCD4g/s1600/4+Tonic+emerges+from+fog+.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tonic emerges from a fog bank.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Every boat needs a fog horn</b>, though big ships and powerboats like the one in Deception Pass might not hear it. One of the best protective devices you can have on your boat is a good radar reflector, hoisted in the rigging. Cheap metal ones like ours seem to work as well as expensive ones. If you have a wooden mast and stuff it full of aluminum foil <a href="http://www.landlpardey.com/self-sufficient-sailor.html">like the Pardeys describe</a>, it can augment your boat’s radar signature, but it doesn’t work with metal masts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEycCGYd1TG6pSnqJJKyE7nMk7L4TRGJN-ZqJ6ZTzQrM-voZV-Cq5w8lRMZ52Sg2tWO2JX9kNzhsoDMrCcmzmqa2I9Snwy2DIx4uISMUhnC7aEBlfGTGw8aGz0-w7DnhSvxZ-WAKC7/s1600/6a+Fog+equipment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEycCGYd1TG6pSnqJJKyE7nMk7L4TRGJN-ZqJ6ZTzQrM-voZV-Cq5w8lRMZ52Sg2tWO2JX9kNzhsoDMrCcmzmqa2I9Snwy2DIx4uISMUhnC7aEBlfGTGw8aGz0-w7DnhSvxZ-WAKC7/s1600/6a+Fog+equipment.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of Sockdolager's fog inventory. The rest includes bright navigation lights, a fog horn, and alert eyes and ears. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Modern fog horns have devolved into earsplitting compressed-gas squealers that require frequent replacement if you run into a lot of fog, or plastic tubes with the blowhole so near the sound hole that it deafens you. The gas ones are loud and effective until the gas runs out, at which point they sound like dying banana slugs. Not that banana slugs make noise, but I needed a picturesque northwest animal metaphor here.<br />
<br />
So, let’s examine a revolutionary fog horn technology that’s easy, endlessly available and probably so effective that neither the Coast Guard nor your local chandlery want you to know about it:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLxrd3h-gocHoZyHHgf3dcVI-rOhyphenhyphen6G9hZ2vie5G8XIH9w6xr-iSjLXZi6tIJPBxHSaOd3SU60j2_uMEpWZkmkq-W14eNo7AzbqQZhx9WgZ1dTd1822CC0hZLbYLE_ifnCGqwLKO21/s1600/7+K+plays+bugle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLxrd3h-gocHoZyHHgf3dcVI-rOhyphenhyphen6G9hZ2vie5G8XIH9w6xr-iSjLXZi6tIJPBxHSaOd3SU60j2_uMEpWZkmkq-W14eNo7AzbqQZhx9WgZ1dTd1822CC0hZLbYLE_ifnCGqwLKO21/s1600/7+K+plays+bugle.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old bugle makes a good fog horn.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Get yourself a used bugle, trumpet, heck, get a tuba if there’s room aboard. It doesn’t have to be in good condition, just playable on a couple of notes. I guarantee that once you Google your bugle and learn how to pucker your embouchure, you’ll be getting exactly the type of attention you seek, namely, people will say, what the hell is that, and then do their best to avoid the awful racket. The best part? In fog, nobody can see who’s making the noise! Of course if you’re an erstwhile Dizzy Gillespie who happens to sail in these waters, please accept my apology now. Jim is still recovering from the two-note “concert” I played for him all the way across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. But we were heard and obeyed, weedhoppahs.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHfOIvNc3y2mIvspMg0Mza6ZcTFjh7ZmND3rUFTdXL-EBhpZUpZzRwgz2ruaJWfIaF4fI1Y3vn5edhfFBMuNNydW0uzUf1x-fb65KWJj_VyoofYUdTzhpitgyzPNUa4j_gMqsKgpz4/s1600/8+Old+dog+new+tricks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHfOIvNc3y2mIvspMg0Mza6ZcTFjh7ZmND3rUFTdXL-EBhpZUpZzRwgz2ruaJWfIaF4fI1Y3vn5edhfFBMuNNydW0uzUf1x-fb65KWJj_VyoofYUdTzhpitgyzPNUa4j_gMqsKgpz4/s1600/8+Old+dog+new+tricks.jpg" height="311" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Did I mention it was foggy? </b>We left Port Townsend on the outgoing tide, at 6:00 am with Tonic following close behind because they have no radar, and we didn’t see land until we reached our destination. At the mouth of Admiralty Inlet we paused to wait on the sidelines of the shipping channel as a big ship plus a tug and barge passed unseen, their basso profundo horns going BOOOOOOOOOOOOOP, vibrating our sternums. I noticed how much white sails blend in with fog, and how well tanbark sails stand out. Of course at night, all bets are off. And then, after all those hours of staring into the murk and at the radar screen (and did I mention how rough it was? Six foot seas in tide rips, vertical as the ones off Oregon,) and like a voyage through a tunnel, we emerged from the fog into full-blown tourist season at Friday Harbor.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglbgyyPQJc9XHYbmOfXeUv5R2tQPi-0RuplJ2vGuVdUAWnrQ7-csdAV72wFeshFdWi9VdmlNL4676ftgb6sAfL2EM6vNO56Tb8kJGyMa6qf-kokxQNA5EYcLIvUFgK1A0Yly3d6eSa/s1600/9+Sockdo+at+Friday+Harbor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglbgyyPQJc9XHYbmOfXeUv5R2tQPi-0RuplJ2vGuVdUAWnrQ7-csdAV72wFeshFdWi9VdmlNL4676ftgb6sAfL2EM6vNO56Tb8kJGyMa6qf-kokxQNA5EYcLIvUFgK1A0Yly3d6eSa/s1600/9+Sockdo+at+Friday+Harbor.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager at Friday Harbor. It's good to have our rowing dinghy back!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The sky got so clear that at first, having been conditioned by staring alternately at the radar and into featureless gray, that we mistook it for the blue screen of death. But Friday Harbor cheerfully welcomed us with open arms and bottles of wine.<br />
<br />
<b>Yes, bottles of wine.</b> Alan Oberlander, an experienced sailor who lives aboard a well-kept Falmouth cutter named Sookie and writes a lively blog called <a href="http://artofhookie.org/">Art of Hookie</a>, has been one of those people we’ve corresponded with but hadn’t yet met. Here’s a photo of Alan and his friend Emily, who were delightful and excellent conversationalists. Alan supplied us with wine from his brother’s <a href="http://www.jscottcellars.com/">winery</a>, and I’m here to testify that was some fabulous plonk. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA5xJeUXYPT4F7uKLs0Zbq4wG6NhG9XnfumaVvPNXwkywDTkdoEJlwt9mdCbtFG4W9hY_uEZ5ELhzPuYkteS8dIkSPlFDPKdIPvkWi9inQtdzAJsQ9IxVcNdhA9hj8Fv-xpRZxTXMp/s1600/10+Alan+&+Emily+of+Sookie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA5xJeUXYPT4F7uKLs0Zbq4wG6NhG9XnfumaVvPNXwkywDTkdoEJlwt9mdCbtFG4W9hY_uEZ5ELhzPuYkteS8dIkSPlFDPKdIPvkWi9inQtdzAJsQ9IxVcNdhA9hj8Fv-xpRZxTXMp/s1600/10+Alan+&+Emily+of+Sookie.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alan and Emily</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Our friends from San Diego</b>, George and Annette Easton, who make the best pasta in the universe, happened to be vacationing in Friday Harbor. They stopped by with wine and cheese and an invitation to a freshly-caught crab dinner, which turned into a hilarious evening of more good conversation and music at the Roche Harbor home of some people we’d never met and who weren’t even there. No, we didn’t break into their house or anything, it was being used by the parents of friends of friends. But if we had all been fifteen years old, we might have been in beeeg trouble.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhWndtbv2dT6Ek2IQ0VWlmpqqrUFAraN-3G9sQ9vaA1-7NNc1C5fBNHFJPo5jt_2_AXWDMhj1CmHGT3eYL2bXqfTPUUEgARGXBAXV9A8hAey7c1sFJdh-5a-XF1DLqer0-3EPyCvWV/s1600/11+Drinking+memory+loss.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhWndtbv2dT6Ek2IQ0VWlmpqqrUFAraN-3G9sQ9vaA1-7NNc1C5fBNHFJPo5jt_2_AXWDMhj1CmHGT3eYL2bXqfTPUUEgARGXBAXV9A8hAey7c1sFJdh-5a-XF1DLqer0-3EPyCvWV/s1600/11+Drinking+memory+loss.jpg" height="320" width="210" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>What took Jim and me by surprise</b> on this cruise was the number of people who recognized us: A boat swerved over and hollered, “Are you the ones who went to the South Pacific?” Several dock-strollers said, “Hey! Sockdolager!” (and they pronounced the name correctly, impressive!) An affable Aussie blinked at me in surprise, then blurted, “I know more about you than YOU do!” Which made me laugh. My favorite was a woman on the dock exclaiming, “Aren’t you those writers?” <i>Yeah</i>, I wanted to say, all sangfroid-y, we’re <i>those</i> writers. Instead, I laughed and danced a tiny jig.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigNSepF7RZoI7xR6JsRQuLqYRmRpGYJ2ZQAQFQ8Ihyphenhyphenhy7-2fpxATkQOMcRhZEi8MwGXDRJ3Iww_XxKdlpLW9iECMJ4lfO5cA1yfY-kUQCNr3CUnvAiCspRgAkHIEMVqJC4wdHcGRHq/s1600/12+dark+and+stormy+night.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigNSepF7RZoI7xR6JsRQuLqYRmRpGYJ2ZQAQFQ8Ihyphenhyphenhy7-2fpxATkQOMcRhZEi8MwGXDRJ3Iww_XxKdlpLW9iECMJ4lfO5cA1yfY-kUQCNr3CUnvAiCspRgAkHIEMVqJC4wdHcGRHq/s1600/12+dark+and+stormy+night.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
It caused me to recall a little debate I’ve had several times with various friends:<br />
<br />
Friend: You’re famous!<br />
Me: No we’re not.<br />
Yes you are.<br />
No we’re not.<br />
<br />
So, to have people stop by like we were some kind of celebrities was, if you want to know the truth, a real blast. And a reminder that we are lucky to have some of the coolest blog readers, followers and friends on the planet. Meeting you is a lot of fun.<br />
<br />
<b>Another thing August in the San Juans is known for </b>is not much wind. We left Friday Harbor and motor-sailed toward Stuart Island, at the far northwest corner of the zigzag line on the chart separating US from Canadian waters.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Wn384CMy-ilReqOy-seOwtnILwhicP2AaFzRFojlVCU7gtI_JkAVgRB1eFJRvu3_jIei8A4RQdcf9PgDWjW92dZgqa_6HScp_08JqRjLM2n380YCzodjxuVJ_c__dq7PzCwKEP5B/s1600/12a+Motorsailing+toward+Speiden+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Wn384CMy-ilReqOy-seOwtnILwhicP2AaFzRFojlVCU7gtI_JkAVgRB1eFJRvu3_jIei8A4RQdcf9PgDWjW92dZgqa_6HScp_08JqRjLM2n380YCzodjxuVJ_c__dq7PzCwKEP5B/s1600/12a+Motorsailing+toward+Speiden+Island.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We spy Speiden Island, on the way to Reid Harbor at Stuart Island.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Check out the rapids! The channel north of Speiden Island was having a maelstrom moment.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCbGLggFuY-n_E8w2zGrO-_55tWgdrYg2PcvnjSX8FR7ll9wI12Iw6iswaw4UTA5n13c59GF25zAjq6tE57JlrMFZuAe8AZwKuS4glQuQY0PpOnRmOWCp_5ypqqzTszj45PPU_45Sm/s1600/13+Rapids+at+Spieden+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCbGLggFuY-n_E8w2zGrO-_55tWgdrYg2PcvnjSX8FR7ll9wI12Iw6iswaw4UTA5n13c59GF25zAjq6tE57JlrMFZuAe8AZwKuS4glQuQY0PpOnRmOWCp_5ypqqzTszj45PPU_45Sm/s1600/13+Rapids+at+Spieden+Island.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rapids in the channel, Speiden Island.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sockdolager was moving through the water at 5+ knots, but our speed over the bottom was a crawl.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAwPI99B1g__zDJq4R6Tbdn58Qs83JsPbDtbMzpw7CsmmocRuBfmZyp5WH15FVKinypqe7JKYhNGC-hlExezIk2liO5kzI0gh4gxgkm1Y3iRGq-Fdz2tn2Hk53SPz95C5Az_ho1wKq/s1600/14+Rapids+-+current.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAwPI99B1g__zDJq4R6Tbdn58Qs83JsPbDtbMzpw7CsmmocRuBfmZyp5WH15FVKinypqe7JKYhNGC-hlExezIk2liO5kzI0gh4gxgkm1Y3iRGq-Fdz2tn2Hk53SPz95C5Az_ho1wKq/s1600/14+Rapids+-+current.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
Carl and Patti, being the cagey sailors they are, sneaked Tonic up the side of the channel and passed us with nonchalant ease. The rascals.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTgbdk4A1uEkESUcg7jr__2f5jcnJlDqYaGXvaWzzD8bE2T_HSliXSG9YwEy5BLLMGNPfVOPx-qDMdvap-px40iRXEMF1X2iEEA3L1QUu9A72ynTh14YXZ5IuU1-bJnWqHLB3VXMPl/s1600/15+Tonic+sneaks+up+the+shoreline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTgbdk4A1uEkESUcg7jr__2f5jcnJlDqYaGXvaWzzD8bE2T_HSliXSG9YwEy5BLLMGNPfVOPx-qDMdvap-px40iRXEMF1X2iEEA3L1QUu9A72ynTh14YXZ5IuU1-bJnWqHLB3VXMPl/s1600/15+Tonic+sneaks+up+the+shoreline.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Stuart Island’s commodious Reid Harbor</b> was active with boats, but there was plenty of room for two Dana 24s to anchor.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio2vj_-xftJ0tVjkmvRVHnevjuqBITHTIZuxYR9ep0xXBDv4LnBWjIt11xaxMV4a_ozAqRaD4YH-s1G6Kx1zfMJigN6-XEQiXzo421L1WpYX76JZqUYtraS8roMILYDFoTgtMhPFuw/s1600/16+Two+Danas+at+Reid+Hbr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio2vj_-xftJ0tVjkmvRVHnevjuqBITHTIZuxYR9ep0xXBDv4LnBWjIt11xaxMV4a_ozAqRaD4YH-s1G6Kx1zfMJigN6-XEQiXzo421L1WpYX76JZqUYtraS8roMILYDFoTgtMhPFuw/s1600/16+Two+Danas+at+Reid+Hbr.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tonic and Sockdolager at anchor, Reid Harbor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And nighttime brought a Supermoon, which explained the extreme tides.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjsFjYCwZGSXv0FX1SmU4m-ycRBTUxp5JYKn4pr4fzX5L1VIsyWXT1JfFKgJXXI8jMWlLLVsCTSmc9dMPU_ZwbBnp5TfR5ubIV3iqvUfoR8VYyMb3cdTR8w79086lWkmmuRmHiB2NN/s1600/17+Reid+Hbr+-+Tonic+in+moonlight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjsFjYCwZGSXv0FX1SmU4m-ycRBTUxp5JYKn4pr4fzX5L1VIsyWXT1JfFKgJXXI8jMWlLLVsCTSmc9dMPU_ZwbBnp5TfR5ubIV3iqvUfoR8VYyMb3cdTR8w79086lWkmmuRmHiB2NN/s1600/17+Reid+Hbr+-+Tonic+in+moonlight.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
A visit to Stuart Island isn’t complete without the 6-mile hike through dense forest to see the lighthouse at Turn Point.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUgMzdFDkEHkBBXS7HBowzk30FuEwTTLLglggucoyVxOWlMJNQBy64wdbqnIXDPKSataNIdCHXTUZXbqFkDb0qf4XheUliWopwwzCzMpUsaK9ZHF6xixzNTZerO16u50B8yQM4julE/s1600/18+Jim,+Patti+&+Carl,+Stuart+Isl+hike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUgMzdFDkEHkBBXS7HBowzk30FuEwTTLLglggucoyVxOWlMJNQBy64wdbqnIXDPKSataNIdCHXTUZXbqFkDb0qf4XheUliWopwwzCzMpUsaK9ZHF6xixzNTZerO16u50B8yQM4julE/s1600/18+Jim,+Patti+&+Carl,+Stuart+Isl+hike.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jim, Patti & Carl on a hike to Turn Point. (Photo taken by Karen)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And besides the terrific view at the end, there were other rewards, such as the best outhouse we’ve ever seen, bar none, anywhere. It was workmanlike and neat on the outside and a real palace on the inside. Being an outhouse, though, its art collection went largely unappreciated by patrons with intact olfactory receptors.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZ688dnC44cw8TO6eXy5PhIGExee4qlyH-tadT6k0yCG1yW8RwsAP9_rArdhrTeMMWZGyp7S31PKrYGFplf-FEv32Szjchw65Q9RM_qK2ehag_yAo47OxdWyKFVFtCkJ1E9sdMALw/s1600/19+Best+Li'l%2BOuthouse%2Binterior.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIZ688dnC44cw8TO6eXy5PhIGExee4qlyH-tadT6k0yCG1yW8RwsAP9_rArdhrTeMMWZGyp7S31PKrYGFplf-FEv32Szjchw65Q9RM_qK2ehag_yAo47OxdWyKFVFtCkJ1E9sdMALw/s1600/19+Best+Li'l%2BOuthouse%2Binterior.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Best li'l outhouse in Washington.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And Sasquatch hunters, your search is over. Lurking near the outhouse. Who knew?<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTX7MtGPXWnMCfpyd6mtEp9fOgkU_8o-nsoqPauVx0rh2Tcu211jFNife6jRQuN6mq8paqZBtOJo2g_yqwkOv346uJC7-CtoINQSD4QjB3z-07eIjccI05d5tcx2fGA9NSSO6KFqE8/s1600/20+Sasquatch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTX7MtGPXWnMCfpyd6mtEp9fOgkU_8o-nsoqPauVx0rh2Tcu211jFNife6jRQuN6mq8paqZBtOJo2g_yqwkOv346uJC7-CtoINQSD4QjB3z-07eIjccI05d5tcx2fGA9NSSO6KFqE8/s1600/20+Sasquatch.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sasquatch, standing very still.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>As long as we’re dancing around the subject</b>, the owners of an “interesting” Roche Harbor business went a little overboard naming their boat, but it fits. The MV Phecal Phreak buzzes around Roche Harbor doing free holding tank pumpouts. Their motto is “We take crap from anyone.” The two young men operating the boat told us they can earn a hundred fifty a day in tips. It’s a brilliant business model. Do the icky job nobody else wants for free on big, squeaky-clean yachts, and watch the pity money pour in. At Friday Harbor, the honey wagon is named MV Pumpty Dumpty. Cute, huh.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAk2NuP17NSVfmIj8FmqzYi3sh2LpO7EzqSSqbM8QsEusvDnqb9SLQjKsy_PQWFrdHxTVew8LStCXxL2btW6MuIc42PYrvTt8y7sRZ_YOQtlMz-cqREHXsSxAIpXIcQrc7dgiBSc1/s1600/21+MV+Phecal+Phreak,+Roche+Hbr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAk2NuP17NSVfmIj8FmqzYi3sh2LpO7EzqSSqbM8QsEusvDnqb9SLQjKsy_PQWFrdHxTVew8LStCXxL2btW6MuIc42PYrvTt8y7sRZ_YOQtlMz-cqREHXsSxAIpXIcQrc7dgiBSc1/s1600/21+MV+Phecal+Phreak,+Roche+Hbr.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The MV Phecal Phreak.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Alright, let’s cleanse the image palate, shall we? How about these Roche Harbor dahlias.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMVCEhKSXIy6JBrTgz-XHsbfkKV9G3UmdekZi5K-u6tmMmBJS63hLwL0sa5CruQla2V4gLhDMPe7eRCIBvI91kSFD3kbFbBe99K6jJbqex-kvO2Sne4Skc70GEQ0UOJufoFfxRzzR6/s1600/22+Dahlias,+Roche+Hbr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMVCEhKSXIy6JBrTgz-XHsbfkKV9G3UmdekZi5K-u6tmMmBJS63hLwL0sa5CruQla2V4gLhDMPe7eRCIBvI91kSFD3kbFbBe99K6jJbqex-kvO2Sne4Skc70GEQ0UOJufoFfxRzzR6/s1600/22+Dahlias,+Roche+Hbr.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
Jim went for a saunter to watch the chaos at the Roche Harbor Customs dock, which was jam-packed with many boats coming in from Canada. At least 5 more boats were lined up in the harbor waiting for space at the Customs dock, while others buzzed around between them. The air was full of fumes and a few tempers were fuming, too. Jim came back to Sockdolager, which was tucked away in a nice quiet spot, with a good story: "You wouldn't believe it. This 35 foot powerboat went to pull away from the dock without pushing <i>off</i> the dock. Its stern swept too close and the dinghy caught on a big dock cleat and was ripped right off the stern."<br />
<br />
"Good grief!"<br />
<br />
"And then a big trawler, probably 45 feet, came straight at the dock, I thought it was going to crash. But about ten feet off the dock it stopped, gracefully pivoted, and made an eggshell landing. No drama."<br />
<br />
"Nice."<br />
<br />
"But the best part was when this little girl looked up from her position on the bow. There was a man on the stern with a dockline. He and the little girl were nonchalant. I hadn't noticed who was driving. The little girl called, 'Good job, Grandma!' Now that was cool."<br />
<br />
<b>Jim knew about a sweet little stop</b> at a small village on Westsound, Orcas Island, called Olga. Not many people know about it. We two Danas squeezed in for a quiet night. Shhh.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdf85s9JOLPNKiCl_Tn6DdIsMd7DImoOr0ZCKBTxmY7UIilQsJ8rglf_W1oEL30FhkQgnu65cDqRJmfh_mE5p8cbKfnalpxq-tYw4J_Ncg1Wf_i-t75ICwRkFYF1_1UVap5ozzq6p7/s1600/23+S+&+T+at+Olga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdf85s9JOLPNKiCl_Tn6DdIsMd7DImoOr0ZCKBTxmY7UIilQsJ8rglf_W1oEL30FhkQgnu65cDqRJmfh_mE5p8cbKfnalpxq-tYw4J_Ncg1Wf_i-t75ICwRkFYF1_1UVap5ozzq6p7/s1600/23+S+&+T+at+Olga.jpg" height="320" width="214" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
One of the local sea captains is immortalized on a wall, inviting creative selfies.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DfMcjwH16XXSWCd354mUMzZo_-k3WcHmrBnIU52SJMTf2TRhAmud3pqTsBAguMlzvQqy-HuDHcP-0qXkDZQvhUid6dfL0e-VeG8lEsTflmGyk6DOqiXakJbNdIw7vDFhFzG89wlZ/s1600/24+Jim+and+Capn+Kasch+at+Olga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DfMcjwH16XXSWCd354mUMzZo_-k3WcHmrBnIU52SJMTf2TRhAmud3pqTsBAguMlzvQqy-HuDHcP-0qXkDZQvhUid6dfL0e-VeG8lEsTflmGyk6DOqiXakJbNdIw7vDFhFzG89wlZ/s1600/24+Jim+and+Capn+Kasch+at+Olga.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Anacortes is a delightful town</b> with great restaurants, shops and a thriving marine industry. Its marine hardware store is unique and reminiscent of chandleries you used to see several decades ago. Lots of sailors say it’s their favorite place, and we agree except for one thing. Living a stone’s throw from a refinery that produces 120,000 barrels of oil a day, <a href="http://seattletimes.com/html/localnews/2011508577_refineryblast03m.html">experienced a major explosion in 2010</a> with fatalities, and was <a href="http://www.publicintegrity.org/2011/02/28/2111/regulatory-flaws-repeated-violations-put-oil-refinery-workers-risk">cited with 44 safety violations by the state</a>, Anacortes residents know that some paychecks come with great risk.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFW6jSW_M7zgxHIqbFtYLfUcEO7844GS1z-toGZRfjwEa00ra8F2cDBqAn9iJNqFdRenVy53cnU-aMgsoDU0OlrGLZMIjoy_nmpj_AtMz_5ZQG5Fpfrz_K6AKBCPytu04nnTtFvc1U/s1600/25+Refinery,+Anacortes2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFW6jSW_M7zgxHIqbFtYLfUcEO7844GS1z-toGZRfjwEa00ra8F2cDBqAn9iJNqFdRenVy53cnU-aMgsoDU0OlrGLZMIjoy_nmpj_AtMz_5ZQG5Fpfrz_K6AKBCPytu04nnTtFvc1U/s1600/25+Refinery,+Anacortes2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the immense refinery at Anacortes.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We can all wish things were different, but most of us use products from refineries like this, so perhaps examining our own consumption patterns a little closer while holding industry and its regulators accountable, for the sake of future generations, would be a good start. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVobMh_MvUfUkCRClNa2ffsXScua_2NaoKvQKIuftNoYi3jNomv7v5j75v-YsO6JMGOnGEvKlNQTB2yVkppxmaayTxiCDfnH9uLT1zLv4H3bPrNATBL6LfXKG5wex-K_s45jHcl0W_/s1600/IMG_0981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVobMh_MvUfUkCRClNa2ffsXScua_2NaoKvQKIuftNoYi3jNomv7v5j75v-YsO6JMGOnGEvKlNQTB2yVkppxmaayTxiCDfnH9uLT1zLv4H3bPrNATBL6LfXKG5wex-K_s45jHcl0W_/s1600/IMG_0981.jpg" height="320" width="283" /></a></div>
<br />
We motored past several anchored tankers, including this one, one of the first double-hulled tankers in the Alaska fleet. I remembered calling it on the VHF radio back in 2006 when I was crossing the Gulf of Alaska in Minstrel, my former Dana 24. The officer of the watch very kindly gave me a weather report, and when I asked how good Minstrel’s radar signature was, he said they first noticed us as a tiny blip on their radar at 16 miles, which surprised me since I only carried an inexpensive aluminum radar reflector. It was confirmation of the effectiveness of such a simple device.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLgnErWCU1JYArUqqmKHuHH1qjYVQndxE3loVytB2pNpRudzzL8rAAwz4Sx9UnfZNeCE9z679tnlNQ4Kv2ofUBD6a5gnfdQlZ_DXdiphOOY7Kaaad0lUhhjNkB6hIHTOsCWYrYALtH/s1600/26+Tanker+Polar+Adventure,+Anacortes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLgnErWCU1JYArUqqmKHuHH1qjYVQndxE3loVytB2pNpRudzzL8rAAwz4Sx9UnfZNeCE9z679tnlNQ4Kv2ofUBD6a5gnfdQlZ_DXdiphOOY7Kaaad0lUhhjNkB6hIHTOsCWYrYALtH/s1600/26+Tanker+Polar+Adventure,+Anacortes.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tanker Polar Adventure at anchor, Anacortes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>I had never been down the Swinomish Channel </b>to LaConner before, though Jim, Carl and Patti had. It reminded me a little of the Intracoastal Waterway on the US east coast, except with fiercer currents. There’s a reason people arrive early at the guest dock: to get an inside spot, which we did. The current’s so strong you have to tie off your wheel or tiller, or the rudder will slam around. And the entertainment is spectacular as long as you’ve got a ten-foot dock between you and the rampaging boats in the channel. Boat-watching for clever names netted us “Incrabnito,” “Aquaholic,” and “License to Chill.” A 50-foot powerboat pulled in, revved its engines, and completely engulfed the dock in thick black smoke. Its name? “Sea Mist.” I was appreciating that special irony when a loud voice hollered at someone over the radio, “Hey idiot! Why doncha be more polite?” Jim and I looked at each other and laughed.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2QDSvRJAyzeMQts5N7iLnFc7GSmIcu4QGGUV5sJEIvaJmhIxJwtrSs_mtCst_tyZseOtRdicks3-v_n2JVfuUqOXIZjF8nfsK_ypG1DrcTCnXMtFk5spe6TwxTmHKv3WMIH_xoxjB/s1600/Nat'l%2BSarcasm%2BSociety.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2QDSvRJAyzeMQts5N7iLnFc7GSmIcu4QGGUV5sJEIvaJmhIxJwtrSs_mtCst_tyZseOtRdicks3-v_n2JVfuUqOXIZjF8nfsK_ypG1DrcTCnXMtFk5spe6TwxTmHKv3WMIH_xoxjB/s1600/Nat'l%2BSarcasm%2BSociety.jpg" height="320" width="234" /></a></div>
<br />
Next morning as I sipped coffee in the cockpit, a woman on the boat opposite us stepped gingerly onto the dock. She had endured a wild couple of missed approaches and a crash landing the previous evening, which featured heroic line throws by her boyfriend and his son and a posse of yelling men on the dock. The morning was calm, early, and quiet. “Nice morning,” I said.<br />
<br />
“Yes,” she ventured, and looked back. “It’s my boyfriend’s boat. Well, not really, he’s thinking of buying it and the owner let us take it out for a week.”<br />
<br />
“Wow, generous owner. Is your boyfriend going to buy it?”<br />
<br />
“I think so. It’s so homey inside. Just like an RV.”<br />
<br />
“Yeah,” I said. “An RV without brakes.”<br />
<br />
“Yeah,” she said nervously.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1CwkiDMdxxaSQMkRh2SRDQxZRHr8L2YFJ8E4uBPzrZ3OYET9ChK2xgblKRWbxe3IMVU1otLzFKt_8lxSaE2elThPzUL5108i82AGFEw-W9k1pN6rmz6IxyFzTpb7OXyXbnO6e_Rs/s1600/Points+of+Sail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil1CwkiDMdxxaSQMkRh2SRDQxZRHr8L2YFJ8E4uBPzrZ3OYET9ChK2xgblKRWbxe3IMVU1otLzFKt_8lxSaE2elThPzUL5108i82AGFEw-W9k1pN6rmz6IxyFzTpb7OXyXbnO6e_Rs/s1600/Points+of+Sail.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
After a lovely quiet evening on a free mooring on the north side of Hope Island, it was time to transit Deception Pass and cross the Strait again. Having fog lurking about, it was another good chance to practice bugle solos, and I wore out my lips.<br />
<br />
<b>When we returned home</b>, I was delighted to get a call from Lin Pardey. She and Larry drove Brownie Lite up from California and are enjoying catching up with friends in Port Townsend. Lin is a presenter at the <a href="http://www.nwmaritime.org/wooden-boat-foundation/wooden-boat-festival">Wooden Boat Festival</a>, and so are we! Check out the <a href="http://wbf2014.sched.org/">schedule</a>, it's worth a trip to Port Townsend. Lin and I had a wonderful visit. Here she is in my studio as we discussed various writing projects.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9bSxjqHOs0CktRFDHs0gNNwammIw4w2TTv9cwsNBnvqa7gjByd3HUpMDUcMIct59fLUba1WJ84JOtTuVV8ABHcOYI7k_s5mN6bO-4MmwhMimhZPb7_Isf9dwagHZEsnEO8tWJV_nJ/s1600/28+Lin+Pardey+in+my+studio.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9bSxjqHOs0CktRFDHs0gNNwammIw4w2TTv9cwsNBnvqa7gjByd3HUpMDUcMIct59fLUba1WJ84JOtTuVV8ABHcOYI7k_s5mN6bO-4MmwhMimhZPb7_Isf9dwagHZEsnEO8tWJV_nJ/s1600/28+Lin+Pardey+in+my+studio.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
We're going to present a slide show at the Festival, on Sunday September 7 at 9:30 am in the Cascade Room, about our voyage to New Zealand. It's called <a href="http://wbf2014.sched.org/event/827e04d424faf3049c6f4cefe7d28d71#.U_fsu0tN1Zg">"Lessons Learned Sailing a 24-foot Boat from Port Townsend to New Zealand."</a> Following us will be <a href="http://www.landlpardey.com/">Lin and Larry</a>, then <a href="http://www.angusadventures.com/">Colin Angus</a> (went around the world on self-powered vessels and vehicles) then <a href="http://www.stevencallahan.net/">Steve Callahan</a>, who spent 76 days in a life raft and was a <a href="http://www.npr.org/2013/02/24/172632549/real-life-shipwreck-survivor-helped-life-of-pi-get-lost-at-sea">consultant for the movie</a> "Life of Pi," which will be shown at the Festival. We hope to see you there!<br />
<br />
It’s good to be back home in our beautiful northwest waters.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbE2iIIEwJG3EyhmVO9ZLmolRO7NmT_jH6Irxo8jU74ffYNzAFxuEC5Tn8mgA2SXWpmoHOrHOHSl748icMvCZ8_HdHMbTAmRUQvMCQSPuryfRzlVNljpjL7-_U3duH75py_GJ4EOoU/s1600/27+Sunset+-+San+Juans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbE2iIIEwJG3EyhmVO9ZLmolRO7NmT_jH6Irxo8jU74ffYNzAFxuEC5Tn8mgA2SXWpmoHOrHOHSl748icMvCZ8_HdHMbTAmRUQvMCQSPuryfRzlVNljpjL7-_U3duH75py_GJ4EOoU/s1600/27+Sunset+-+San+Juans.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-65119204527501546872014-07-03T15:22:00.001-07:002014-07-05T17:21:46.019-07:00North Pacific Summer, South Pacific Friendships<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9kMdBZ-qrpsmp_pA80bqPbzNyR8ewMfeypOxsCYw0rccg315ItyW56XqScMPzJRXiORiNFQ-24_EUQOnMuUKr1RQtxoUq1jCW0ydJsWKsjZyLpF8xl-4zGPBCZnHfTrM6w7oHUVFS/s1600/1-OCH+photo+of+Sockdolager.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9kMdBZ-qrpsmp_pA80bqPbzNyR8ewMfeypOxsCYw0rccg315ItyW56XqScMPzJRXiORiNFQ-24_EUQOnMuUKr1RQtxoUq1jCW0ydJsWKsjZyLpF8xl-4zGPBCZnHfTrM6w7oHUVFS/s1600/1-OCH+photo+of+Sockdolager.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager enjoying a nice reach. Photo credit: <a href="http://tour.offcenterharbor.com/">Off Center Harbor</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>It’s not like we’ve been a couple of lazy</b>, lethargic,
lily-livered, laggardly, lackadaisical landlubbers since the last post or
anything, though the fast-paced land life and hard-hitting news coverage are
things we’re still getting used to.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJuPSzCK73OqQdqJ1VTzgFFPRhQfibOdHy0jb4QtUOsSGz7KqjFis0e-vHhyphenhyphenKbZN6dnkOze_GomEQCu-6_iz-3Aa5kDUBTGzgcptAPEHbZAbUW8MdoQPGzwwllZge4ABTDZXb-RC2a/s1600/2-Hard-hitting+news.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJuPSzCK73OqQdqJ1VTzgFFPRhQfibOdHy0jb4QtUOsSGz7KqjFis0e-vHhyphenhyphenKbZN6dnkOze_GomEQCu-6_iz-3Aa5kDUBTGzgcptAPEHbZAbUW8MdoQPGzwwllZge4ABTDZXb-RC2a/s1600/2-Hard-hitting+news.JPG" height="216" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>There's been boat maintenance</b> - you know how you dig out old seams and re-caulk them and then sit back and say, hoo boy, we're watertight now, and then the ocean says oh no you're not? Before we left in 2011, we completely re-caulked the hull-to-deck seam, which stayed watertight throughout the voyage. It was the <i>inside</i> seam under the cap rail, in a very fiddly place, that gradually gave us more and more drips whenever the rail went under, which it did a lot coming north from California. Well, it's fixed now, as are escaped teak deck bungs, a couple of stanchions that needed re-bedding and a few other things. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>There's been time spent with cruisers getting ready to head out. </b>Two young couples, Matt and Megan aboard the 33-foot Daybreak, and Josh and Michele aboard a Northsea 27, are heading south to destinations to be discovered. We enjoyed visiting with them and talking about preparations on small boats, and we wish them fair winds and low seas.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Jim has been studying up on racing tactics</b> while sailing on
a friend’s Thunderbird in the <u><a href="http://ptsail.org/">Port Townsend Sailing Association</a></u>’s race
series, and they’ve become very competitive among the local fleet. We hosted a
gathering of the <u><a href="https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/NWSeacraft/info">Northwest Pacific Seacraft Owner’s Association</a></u> at Poulsbo,
raced on wooden boats in Port Townsend’s Classic Mariner’s Regatta, and gave
slide show/talks at Seattle’s <a href="http://cwb.org/">Center For Wooden Boats</a> and the Navy Yacht Club
at Everett. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcq90w2rHi4gkn7tm15DfkGZX4U9MBV7366FP8wCxcjgzqaFeA47yNZqz9QO2f7pZjEZK6ZgtmIujG0gjvubDQuodPydguBEznoPPlqychukXO5VULvH_7nph3-m6kgBYwqGl8fum/s1600/3-+Aura+sails.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcq90w2rHi4gkn7tm15DfkGZX4U9MBV7366FP8wCxcjgzqaFeA47yNZqz9QO2f7pZjEZK6ZgtmIujG0gjvubDQuodPydguBEznoPPlqychukXO5VULvH_7nph3-m6kgBYwqGl8fum/s1600/3-+Aura+sails.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lovely <a href="http://www.classicdaysails.com/Home.html">Aura</a>, a Blanchard 33 built in 1949</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
We’ll also be giving a talk at the <a href="http://www.nwmaritime.org/wooden-boat-foundation/wooden-boat-festival">Wooden Boat Festival</a> in early September. And we <b>finally</b> met Richard Hazelton, the editor of <u><a href="http://www.48north.com/">48 North magazine</a></u>, after all these years. About time! We all spent so much time spinning yarns and laughing that we're pretty sure he missed his deadline.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6IJkRSZ8IFP2sQl7VnQ2rPl6z7XCPiNbXx9FLGAa9rUhcEXvRq3mrgdxumn0Ts5VS_paqT9zrtpHFlpRC7yXhBCbu_MyqlwE-qTPNvg5D-kE3U0JA0bmClxYscawY7tW439TAHeKG/s1600/cover.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6IJkRSZ8IFP2sQl7VnQ2rPl6z7XCPiNbXx9FLGAa9rUhcEXvRq3mrgdxumn0Ts5VS_paqT9zrtpHFlpRC7yXhBCbu_MyqlwE-qTPNvg5D-kE3U0JA0bmClxYscawY7tW439TAHeKG/s1600/cover.png" height="320" width="269" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jim has finished building my writing studio, and I’m spectacularly,
superbly, scrumptiously, stylishly thrilled. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicid2ssgbacyIYn1owf0-SPR-eLPnJ72mqc8Oj-d6wjJbdtNSOSL7J3nPT0lCKI9Bk7sFNeuy1ripEgMTX6i2tL21gLKMUkJeSqjLxKiDPmVbO65Y9T8GjhQIaVcJ14WXQk3B-W63w/s1600/4-writing+studio.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicid2ssgbacyIYn1owf0-SPR-eLPnJ72mqc8Oj-d6wjJbdtNSOSL7J3nPT0lCKI9Bk7sFNeuy1ripEgMTX6i2tL21gLKMUkJeSqjLxKiDPmVbO65Y9T8GjhQIaVcJ14WXQk3B-W63w/s1600/4-writing+studio.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>I finished the drawings, photos and articles</b> for a six-part
series to be published in <u><a href="http://www.goodoldboat.com/">Good Old Boat magazine</a></u>, starting in
September. The series is about how to make your boat and yourself ready for
solo (or short-handed) sailing. It covers mental preparation, docking and
undocking, sail changes, anchoring under power or sail from either upwind or
downwind, how to cope when your anchor drags, and there’s an essay on the
rewards of solitude. I’m excited about it.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqOvv_6Iqxfa13z4-ARxMknEumCBert6DlUedYu6qF6bx-Dn0-OqwZSMzYwuvu_-V9Cw5Mmqllv2UhkLTvq7r9q9uO_2ZhRQAHohV-_tcXxLD8pjQo45SPsNKoCxJlBOy9CJNMbwAL/s1600/July14_medium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqOvv_6Iqxfa13z4-ARxMknEumCBert6DlUedYu6qF6bx-Dn0-OqwZSMzYwuvu_-V9Cw5Mmqllv2UhkLTvq7r9q9uO_2ZhRQAHohV-_tcXxLD8pjQo45SPsNKoCxJlBOy9CJNMbwAL/s1600/July14_medium.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And in between helping a neighbor run for Congress on the Green Party ticket, I have been working every day on the book project about
our voyage.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Or9DJck6-f4zjxM7KkliF4RgYevz_k-YmfZnSsFak072TdOIAdliQMVbCyPHQWvc3COzUVP-VhLA2nDqnLrODurSSrC9jqzCMJZIEM6N0LyF5U5tCxfQdjDE2AD1_AA-XTfA2JFt/s1600/5-there's+a+book+in+you.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Or9DJck6-f4zjxM7KkliF4RgYevz_k-YmfZnSsFak072TdOIAdliQMVbCyPHQWvc3COzUVP-VhLA2nDqnLrODurSSrC9jqzCMJZIEM6N0LyF5U5tCxfQdjDE2AD1_AA-XTfA2JFt/s1600/5-there's+a+book+in+you.JPG" height="320" width="285" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sometimes things, as you write them, tell you how they need
to be written. With my book, which began as an expansion of the voyage narratives
featured this blog, I’m going into new territory, and learning that the creative
process has many steps.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXUIaGM4ZfrawaA7U-fLeCiJRIbzPM7PweIu-TVeqLCmozWI1C4swdYTJ7M0y3Or_rFzYlc8K-MdpWFcamO2BosvSbomwylO0YoEe4Ad03sYXSjwy0GuWb0ZQdnfXoxcn_pCxgQ5ey/s1600/7-the+creative+process.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXUIaGM4ZfrawaA7U-fLeCiJRIbzPM7PweIu-TVeqLCmozWI1C4swdYTJ7M0y3Or_rFzYlc8K-MdpWFcamO2BosvSbomwylO0YoEe4Ad03sYXSjwy0GuWb0ZQdnfXoxcn_pCxgQ5ey/s1600/7-the+creative+process.JPG" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After reading the first seven draft chapters, Jim said, “I want to know why you wanted to cross an ocean.
I want to know how many times you tried, and failed, and why you didn’t give up
the dream.” So, okay, then. It’s going to be a memoir. I've sensed for awhile
that it would need a more personal touch, but there will still be lots
of practical things, like examples with illustrations on how we did certain
tasks, and appendices with long lists on what we did to get the boat and
ourselves ready, how we organized storage, what we put in our ditch bags, etc. I
can’t project a finish date but am hoping to get a solid complete draft done by late autumn. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In the meantime I’ve badly neglected you, wonderful reader, but it’s
kind of like that old parental admonition: "It’s for your own good, dear." Will
you believe that? No? I don’t blame you. Okay, how about this:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMyFsUGT0Itr-s5AT7Uga_fDUTigntjpI5WB9SJe9X4URzAx9zPP6VqwrFzK_96_vusLi2zhpj619UU9AWH_lKzKaKnmE7GQQjY8kh67iuM05u3UDrbgoQwKYr0QRA3e1Re-pqHM5V/s1600/6-when+you+make+a+typo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMyFsUGT0Itr-s5AT7Uga_fDUTigntjpI5WB9SJe9X4URzAx9zPP6VqwrFzK_96_vusLi2zhpj619UU9AWH_lKzKaKnmE7GQQjY8kh67iuM05u3UDrbgoQwKYr0QRA3e1Re-pqHM5V/s1600/6-when+you+make+a+typo.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The Western Flyer is hauled out at Boat Haven in Port Townsend. </b>This is the boat that took author John Steinbeck, biologist Ed Ricketts and a research team in 1940 from Monterey, California to Mexico, about which Steinbeck wrote the classic <u>Sea of Cortez</u>. A <a href="http://www.peninsuladailynews.com/article/20140527/NEWS/305279988/new-york-times-looks-at-controversy-over-boat-linked-to-author-john">controversy</a> rages between the current owner, who wants to cut the boat into pieces to reassemble in the lobby of his hotel, and the group that was trying to raise money to buy and restore it as a floating educational facility. In the meantime, there she sits, barnacle-encrusted and rotting after <a href="http://www.bendbulletin.com/news/1341744-151/groups-fight-over-famous-fishing-boats-future#">sinking twice</a> in the Swinomish channel. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rumors fly about her being sliced up soon, but nobody knows. Personally, it makes me sad to think of a boat like this being cut up. We've seen too many examples. You have to go to three different places in California to see the sliced-off bow, stern and bones of the beautiful <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galilee_(ship)">Galilee</a>, an 1891-built brigantine that Port Townsend's Peter Quinn knew when his grandfather owned and lived aboard it in Sausalito. You have to go to a bookstore in Victoria, BC to see <a href="http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/03/r/articles/sad/end.htm">the remains of Trekka</a>, the most famous small boat to ever circumnavigate. We don't know how or why a legendary boat on exhibit at the maritime museum in Victoria would go first to a shed, where <a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/2010/06/meander-yonder.html">Jim and I found her</a> intact in 2010, and then to a hull without her keel in a bookstore display. And no one can ever see the fabled Tzu Hang, the Smeeton's red 46' ketch, ever again, because after falling into disrepair, she was bulldozed by a shipbreaker in Puerto Rico a day before the man who had finally raised the cash to rescue her arrived. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So we hope that the Western Flyer story ends well. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rVyoEjp1hq3bNWbny_pc7yKivD9J4wJmLoqueD_1BBzi_RxgqwNmAZ_wzBvJv52DXCDLmqisbI-Or4xVEGoxmKgUGKCcruanI7hkA-CA7Y0XIIFhnOpR5fUS71WSYD7SN0GttcSH/s1600/Western+Flyer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5rVyoEjp1hq3bNWbny_pc7yKivD9J4wJmLoqueD_1BBzi_RxgqwNmAZ_wzBvJv52DXCDLmqisbI-Or4xVEGoxmKgUGKCcruanI7hkA-CA7Y0XIIFhnOpR5fUS71WSYD7SN0GttcSH/s1600/Western+Flyer.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Western Flyer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Far-flung friends</b>
are spanning the globe, literally. Jim sent congratulations to two women from
Norway whom we met in French Polynesia. They recently crossed their track while
re-crossing the Atlantic, to complete their circumnavigation. Congratulations
to Camilla and Johanne aboard <u><a href="http://www.flowtravel.no/">Flow</a></u>! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><u><a href="http://www.sailblogs.com/member/williamnorrie/?show=profile">Terrwyn</a>,</u> a Pacific Seacraft 37, is in
South Africa awaiting her owners’ return. Meanwhile, her owners Bill and Cathy
bought a Bristol Channel Cutter in British Columbia and are spending the
northern summer sailing it before returning to Terrwyn. Hard core, guys. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Where is everybody?</b> The fleet we first met in Mexico and left in New Zealand has
moved on, too. The crew of <a href="http://thegiddyupplan.blogspot.com/">Estrellita</a> (Waquiez Pretorien 35, Livia and Carol) have been kitesurfing their brains out in French Polynesia from Gambier to Maupiti, and we think they're headed for the Marshall Islands for cyclone season. <u><a href="http://sailingwithmarkandvicki.blogspot.com/">Southern Cross</a></u>, an Ericson 38, is just about to leave
Fiji for Vanuatu and Australia, where owners Mark and Vicki will sell her. <u><a href="http://sailcharisma.com/">Charisma</a></u>
(Tayana 37, Bob and Anne) and <u><a href="http://www.sailblogs.com/member/orcinius/">Orcinius</a></u> (Lagoon 42, John and
Lisa) are in Fiji, after a good trip for Charisma but a rough one for Orcinius,
who met a gale near Minerva Reef. Remember these guys from Aitutaki, where we all went through the <a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/2012/08/aitutaki-paradise-found.html">Mother of All Groundings</a>? </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><br /></u></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><a href="http://www.twoatsea.com/">Legacy</a></u> (Catalina 38 with Rich and
Cyndi) went back to Tonga, and Clover (Lapworth 36), with singlehander Shane
aboard, is surfing his brains out in Fiji. Heading north to rendezvous with old
friends in Fiji, <u><a href="http://www.sailblogs.com/member/buenavista/">Buena Vista</a></u> (Peterson 46, Deb and Don) had a safe late-season
passage. <u><a href="http://blog.mailasail.com/arnamentia">Arnamentia</a></u> (Swan 47, Jon and Carol) is still in New Zealand enjoying
a refit, <u><a href="http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog/gatogo/1/tpod.html">Gato Go</a></u> (40’ catamaran, Craig and Bruce) is back in Fiji, <u><a href="http://svluckness.blogspot.com/">Luckness</a></u>
(Pacific Seacraft 37, singlehander Craig) left the Cook Islands and is enroute to
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beveridge_Reef">Beveridge Reef</a>, Peter and Kelsey aboard <u><a href="http://www.pacificnwexpeditions.com/category/privateer-world-voyage-journal/">Privateer</a></u> (Cape George 36) have
blasted through the South Pacific and are in Tonga already, Richard and Allison aboard <u><a href="http://blog.mailasail.com/vulcanspirit">Vulcan Spirit</a></u> (Halberg-Rassey 53) are in Australia, and Patrick and Kirsten aboard
<a href="http://www.svsilhouette.com/">Silhouette</a> (Cabo Rico 38) have finally arrived in Sitka, Alaska, after sailing
from New Zealand via Rarotonga, Penhryn, Fanning and Hawaii. Their description
of “<a href="http://www.svsilhouette.com/2014/06/sailing-north-pacific-roller-coaster.html">Sailing the Pacific Roller-Coaster</a>” between Hawaii and Alaska is one of the
best I’ve read. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Finally, in the most impressive feat of all, a witty Irishman named Sam Davis, whom we first met in Bora Bora and
who Jim got to know in Tonga, sailed his Rival 42, <a href="http://www.irishcruisingclub.com/images/stories/Sam%20Davis%202013.pdf">Suvretta</a>, solo from Tonga to the
Falklands via Cape Horn. After making repairs to damage he sustained in the Southern Ocean, he reached Ireland without incident. If anyone ought to write a
blog or a book, it’s him.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There you have it. That’s a lot of sea-miles under those
keels, folks. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqQIsCKvkjxrYcncb6lxb8YRnhrlRTN88P-9KOAAA5CTMt0f2sG734V_ZZDDyZcEjbyBPyVFjDuCxK5ATy5jcUlBF2GuKjh4FchKPyUtl_i2KZhg7IQ86P555m8JaI_1WIrQxSMqEp/s1600/Sockdo+sailing+in+Puget+Sound.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqQIsCKvkjxrYcncb6lxb8YRnhrlRTN88P-9KOAAA5CTMt0f2sG734V_ZZDDyZcEjbyBPyVFjDuCxK5ATy5jcUlBF2GuKjh4FchKPyUtl_i2KZhg7IQ86P555m8JaI_1WIrQxSMqEp/s1600/Sockdo+sailing+in+Puget+Sound.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-41739598617588880552014-04-13T15:43:00.000-07:002014-04-13T15:43:17.628-07:00New! Site Index!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig1ePzLFswM8iKhqEu3Rf8AVN_K7WTNBdr7UaKI6cRSgKNzs9336kkcTBVsxshM32AkhBHhlS-2T7-hXNnClzPuAXKvRhPEk72P7hUKNDBsrKPPf1INIqMRqpTf1-pzYD7F93HoBf9/s1600/photo-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig1ePzLFswM8iKhqEu3Rf8AVN_K7WTNBdr7UaKI6cRSgKNzs9336kkcTBVsxshM32AkhBHhlS-2T7-hXNnClzPuAXKvRhPEk72P7hUKNDBsrKPPf1INIqMRqpTf1-pzYD7F93HoBf9/s1600/photo-2.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', sans-serif;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></b></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b style="color: #29303b;">To help new readers navigate this blog, and to make it easier for longtime readers to find information</b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b;">, we've added a </span><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: blue;"><a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/p/new-site-index.html">Site Index on the left side of this page</a></span></b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b;">, featuring click-through links to blog posts organized by topic and year. Not all blog posts are indexed, but reader favorites and those with topics of interest are. Because many blog posts cover multiple topics, several links may take you to the same post. </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b;"><br /></span></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b;"><b>Currently this index covers</b> the voyage from Port Townsend to New Zealand and back, from mid-2011 through our homecoming. We will expand it to include 2009-2011. </span><br /><br /><b style="color: #29303b;"><b>Part one</b> </b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b;">includes passages, meaning posts written at sea or about a particular passage.</span><br /><b style="color: #29303b; font-weight: bold;">Part two</b><b style="color: #29303b;"> </b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b;">contains posts about places: islands, cities, ports of call.</span><br /><b style="color: #29303b; font-weight: bold;">Part three</b><b style="color: #29303b;"> </b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b;">is humor posts, but much of the humor writing is embedded in larger posts.</span><br /><b style="color: #29303b; font-weight: bold;">Part four</b><b style="color: #29303b; font-weight: bold;"> </b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b;">is seamanship.</span><b style="color: #29303b; font-weight: bold;"> </b><br /><b style="color: #29303b; font-weight: bold;">Part five</b><b style="color: #29303b; font-weight: bold;"> </b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b;">is health topics.</span><b style="color: #29303b; font-weight: bold;"> </b><br /><b style="color: #29303b; font-weight: bold;">Part six</b><b style="color: #29303b;"> </b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b;">is about wildlife.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">We hope this index helps you to navigate the blog with ease.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi17EMk08UdDP39X_kRCMMHr0cEV_dbuZAclhfWEq1X3jAIjEkDurRx-r2AYB0tGhVJ1Sy7g9uyUy_0XMF4JCM5Mp2ZsX7qRlQFhqeVJM8n7fRu1m-0uWQAtIksYCLEqRSOAaql3tEu/s1600/photo-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi17EMk08UdDP39X_kRCMMHr0cEV_dbuZAclhfWEq1X3jAIjEkDurRx-r2AYB0tGhVJ1Sy7g9uyUy_0XMF4JCM5Mp2ZsX7qRlQFhqeVJM8n7fRu1m-0uWQAtIksYCLEqRSOAaql3tEu/s1600/photo-1.JPG" height="187" width="320" /></a></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-20322958650347803482014-02-18T21:06:00.001-08:002014-02-18T21:06:40.643-08:00A Writing Winter<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw3zHW_SUNJrWs2ocNEGWApLbyPIZExpjdA6zagZVh3EEfoehmVI0tYzTRDpc7RUKjczdDr4ReoLuafaFXSxCQ0GGX4JZii-cWHfzuq6pi4FZI1kcA0LzqdiNtdRA3RgnimCbGtc9S/s1600/1+Sunset-thru+porthole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw3zHW_SUNJrWs2ocNEGWApLbyPIZExpjdA6zagZVh3EEfoehmVI0tYzTRDpc7RUKjczdDr4ReoLuafaFXSxCQ0GGX4JZii-cWHfzuq6pi4FZI1kcA0LzqdiNtdRA3RgnimCbGtc9S/s1600/1+Sunset-thru+porthole.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Port Townsend,
Washington:</b> A procession of gales clipped by bright crisp days has
been the way winter is this year in the far upper left corner of the US. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdEoAOJ54tuZOk-2uWDNTYjocLxr_AMJr73De_WVEMYt6g6Wvj1VYcshvhDr8BBPAOLuDNh-1hKQsq62olYW4uj-cNQEupAuTMw4EdaUIxGnrwXrlDEfzaYHwPTQoXeXhojW5HRTSm/s1600/2+Winter+of+our+discount+tent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdEoAOJ54tuZOk-2uWDNTYjocLxr_AMJr73De_WVEMYt6g6Wvj1VYcshvhDr8BBPAOLuDNh-1hKQsq62olYW4uj-cNQEupAuTMw4EdaUIxGnrwXrlDEfzaYHwPTQoXeXhojW5HRTSm/s1600/2+Winter+of+our+discount+tent.jpg" height="320" width="269" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
No big dumps of snow and no extreme temperatures. I’m happy
about the no snow, having maxed out my lifetime tolerance card many years ago
while living 8 miles up a mountain road in Alaska, but Jim’s not so certain. I
think he misses snow and the fun you can have in it. Me, I look forward to the
first flowers of spring.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIsyHDo0y0T9-HyCQcDIcYjYTkJIhsAguxqKTIGB1qQmLn6Dgk3ESPVPMwLvPEE5Evf-SvD2vDVWG-dbUMgh7x0WY2uSnNNYgNeciSnHsPlukQZv7hfwfejpCxhg6VRSaHBNWajFd7/s1600/3+Flowers-poppies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIsyHDo0y0T9-HyCQcDIcYjYTkJIhsAguxqKTIGB1qQmLn6Dgk3ESPVPMwLvPEE5Evf-SvD2vDVWG-dbUMgh7x0WY2uSnNNYgNeciSnHsPlukQZv7hfwfejpCxhg6VRSaHBNWajFd7/s1600/3+Flowers-poppies.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We’re enjoying the peace of a low-key winter</b>, with unlimited
time for me to write and for Jim to convert the garage into a workshop for
himself and a little studio for me. It’s all going pretty well. I haven’t
posted in awhile because, well, I’ve been busy writing. The book about our
voyage to New Zealand, that is. It’s harder than I thought, because although
the blog is a good guide to draw from, I’m finding everything needs to be
re-written in order to hang together the way a book seems to demand. Fifteen
chapters are complete, at least to second draft stage. And though I don’t tend
to talk about a project while it’s underway (something about losing the magic
juju,) here’s a brief excerpt from one chapter, about sailing down the coast of
California, between Santa Cruz and the Channel Islands. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The book is still not titled, though I have a few ideas and
am open to suggestions. I want to capture the spirit of what it feels like to
go cruising to unknown places and the surprises they give, while deepening a
sense of appreciation for being alive and in the world. Tall order, but why not
try. I hope you enjoy it. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Hfb_PzCMTqKVEwTIOjwB_2xeY3FBD1k9sl45oFIGyj1NyobxufGUFVPBtglEe-ijJ3ScBsy53Pu4WHDboz75wlAJmwVXv9au8UbnUVUNBNlmKWfJWL3KPgYjz1YQu7Ii2cB2XqvG/s1600/4+S+sails+off+Catalina+Island.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Hfb_PzCMTqKVEwTIOjwB_2xeY3FBD1k9sl45oFIGyj1NyobxufGUFVPBtglEe-ijJ3ScBsy53Pu4WHDboz75wlAJmwVXv9au8UbnUVUNBNlmKWfJWL3KPgYjz1YQu7Ii2cB2XqvG/s1600/4+S+sails+off+Catalina+Island.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager sailing off the Channel Islands.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ book excerpt~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
California’s waters gave us an easy but foggy passage from
Sausalito to Santa Cruz, where we watched the dock reconstruction from the
tsunami that had hit five months earlier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Steel reinforcements bracketed each piling, and reinforced beams extended halfway across the dock. Someone had painted them hot pink, evidently to keep others from tripping. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Strolling
through the seaside amusement park, we spied every possible kind of high-fat
funky carnival food that could be had for a couple of bucks and some swagger at
the prospect of clogged arteries. “Whoa, fried Twinkies!” I said. “I’ve never
tried one.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Go for it,” said Jim.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I dunno, they look like little rows of myocardial
infarctions.” I considered the idea while watching a patron gobble a cream-filled greasy gluten dog. “Nah. I don’t see an ambulance standing by. Maybe some other time.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The weather behaved, allowing us to explore a little, but ten-foot waves from two directions rolled in and closed the harbor entrance for a couple of days. They came from the Gulf of Alaska and some gigantic storm near Antarctica, traveling thousands of miles across the curvature of the earth to crash on this coast. Nervously
we watched them break over the channel entrance. I was surprised at how far
wind-generated waves of that size can travel--in fact, they can go all the way around the planet at the Southern Ocean, where there's no land to stop them. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Once the entrance calmed down, we left
for Monterey. The windless passage forced us to motor in thick fog through
which the sun shone, giving us fogbows. On a smooth grey sea, they look like
rainbows seen through milk glass.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcRhmx3KjgTSMdB8_9e3NrLTQtS98xUx6DIqvtjKiAVvj0xczkEQg6NDVA4ucAXZRa8CCRy2ffJU5NP0uws72qxlQPf6N8Zs49MruZXZGP6m7yIO57FOJRpaEBrzkeWUyrUQClH2c/s1600/5+Fogbow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcRhmx3KjgTSMdB8_9e3NrLTQtS98xUx6DIqvtjKiAVvj0xczkEQg6NDVA4ucAXZRa8CCRy2ffJU5NP0uws72qxlQPf6N8Zs49MruZXZGP6m7yIO57FOJRpaEBrzkeWUyrUQClH2c/s1600/5+Fogbow.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fogbow.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>As we glided over the invisible edge</b> of an abrupt dropoff
to the oceanic abyss that is Monterey Canyon, I stood on the foredeck as
lookout, musing over what the terrain must look like thousands of feet beneath
us. What lives are being lived down there? So deceptively smooth here at the
surface, but we are flying over the equivalent of the Grand Canyon! I wished I
could dive down for a look, but snapped to attention when a great white shark
about 8 feet long appeared on the surface smack in front of the boat. We were
going to collide with it. I yelled <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Sharrrk!
Dead ahead!</i> back to Jim, but there wasn’t time to avoid it. The shark must
have sensed the boat’s pressure wave and scrambled out of the way just in time.
It swam down our starboard side, casually watching us with a black beady eye as if nothing had happened. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Wow</i>, Jim
and I mouthed at each other, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">That’s a
great white for you</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We sailed
out of lovely Monterey into a dazzling sunset that bronzed Big Sur’s hills and
Sockdolager’s sails, and a tide of happiness washed over me. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">This is where I want to be, sailing on this
boat with this man</i>. It was that simple. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The 3-day passage went so easily
that we arrived early at the crossing point with the busy Santa Barbara Channel,
thirty miles north of Point Conception. We crossed the shipping lanes at a
right angle to minimize the chance of encountering ships, and shaped a course down
the other side to run parallel with but several miles outside them. A steady parade
of ships made it feel as if we were walking on the shoulder of a freeway.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The boat was still
going too fast. If we kept up this speed, we’d arrive at night off San Miguel,
the most northwesterly of the Channel Islands. Our destination was Cuyler
Harbor, an uninhabited windswept indentation guarded by rocks, kelp beds and
elephant seals. The wind kept picking up, which made us go even faster. NOAA’s
radio weather service announced a gale warning. Cuyler Harbor looked like the
best shelter, so here was a unique challenge: with so little sail up, how could we slow the boat down further, so as not to arrive off a rock-strewn harbor entrance in darkness? The end of
this passage turned out not to be as peaceful as the beginning.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We kept
reducing sail until we had nothing but a tiny scrap of genoa out, and we were
still doing 3 ½ knots downwind when we needed to be doing 2. Winds were now 20
knots, and Sockdolager did not want to slow down. The seas were rising, which
made reducing speed even more important. Entering a tricky harbor in these seas
could not be done in darkness, and we didn’t want to sail past it. So, keeping
clear of the shipping lane on our port side, we did some zig-zagging, little
detours about two miles wide, to increase the distance sailed and stretch out
the hours until dawn. It worked.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Around
midnight I saw a large squid glowing ghostly green just under the surface of
the darkened sea.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was about two or
three feet long, and aligned parallel with the waves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It moved quickly and diagonally from one
wavetop through the water to the next wavetop, where it would pause.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It stayed just beneath the surface, seeking
the space inside each wavetop as if hiding underneath a mountain peak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Squid are tremendous predators, and this
behavior made me wonder: does being inside the top of a wave instead of near
the trough or in flat water increase the chance of being undetected by prey?
Most fish that swim near the surface at night might expect attack from underneath,
but probably not overhead. Does the change in sea surface from calm to wavy
actually become a change in habitat that triggers different behavior in some
species? I had no answer, but enjoyed wondering about it as we zigzagged
through the night.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv7IILK7MgJRThs-GGEtBQXKKwHeFE5PcIguTFVwVsAPA1CSF71aHeT0XvIC6nzaY7F3luCsJZD81yEX8urak-dz51F_Cwa2t52PHCszK4-s-ihdYW-yWBeRe4i43lRWW5rma6vtiJ/s1600/6+Dinghy+ashore+at+Cuyler+Hbr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv7IILK7MgJRThs-GGEtBQXKKwHeFE5PcIguTFVwVsAPA1CSF71aHeT0XvIC6nzaY7F3luCsJZD81yEX8urak-dz51F_Cwa2t52PHCszK4-s-ihdYW-yWBeRe4i43lRWW5rma6vtiJ/s1600/6+Dinghy+ashore+at+Cuyler+Hbr.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cuyler Harbor, San Miguel Island, just before the gale.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Off the
harbor entrance at dawn, we began threading between rocks and kelp beds, and
found a good sandy-bottomed spot to anchor in and ride out the coming gale in
the solitude of a harbor surrounded by rock walls and sand dunes. It was scenic,
deserted, and, unfortunately, filled with the weird, low-frequency burble that can only be
made by three dozen 2-ton elephant seals. The gale blew for four days, and the
seals treated us to the sound that twelve year-old boys would make if they
could commandeer the public address system at a baseball stadium, for a belching
contest. On the first day it made us laugh to hear it. By the fourth day we
were belching unashamedly along with them.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA34K3laPmej6XZGRxFWR9DTX2WwFi6tlgzCKZdtHggdGmrtmRbr5X_xGCgzqoRdv9SUWysFEhnEQv_5HBDbJ3udeJFG9EVlk_70M6WZlgHKe3Ds-SBhtVntW9vGh7aCVUnYwGASrn/s1600/7+Elephant+seal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA34K3laPmej6XZGRxFWR9DTX2WwFi6tlgzCKZdtHggdGmrtmRbr5X_xGCgzqoRdv9SUWysFEhnEQv_5HBDbJ3udeJFG9EVlk_70M6WZlgHKe3Ds-SBhtVntW9vGh7aCVUnYwGASrn/s1600/7+Elephant+seal.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephant seal.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-62312400082219132652014-01-10T21:35:00.001-08:002014-01-10T21:35:36.851-08:00Heaving-to in a Gale<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCzmkiTw5blB_myFGQmttZ7r_hyphenhyphenMgkpoZK4okPU-_JRjAbaSt_qwbYaqqpARYz3QF-zvM5eSxrHMynSgkq-r9TWWD8Ugem6Bm_9TsIIhdtnY928Gubh41kxb-AVD4V9JURKpnomR7z/s1600/1+Storm+trysail+in+use.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCzmkiTw5blB_myFGQmttZ7r_hyphenhyphenMgkpoZK4okPU-_JRjAbaSt_qwbYaqqpARYz3QF-zvM5eSxrHMynSgkq-r9TWWD8Ugem6Bm_9TsIIhdtnY928Gubh41kxb-AVD4V9JURKpnomR7z/s1600/1+Storm+trysail+in+use.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager hove-to under storm trysail, 100 miles off the Oregon coast <br />
at the beginning of the gale.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Because a lot of
people have asked us</b> about the traditional way of “parking” your boat on
the ocean, called heaving-to, and because so many have also asked, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Are you going to write a book about the
voyage</i>, (and because I <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">am</i> writing
one,) here is a compilation of story and technical information about
heaving-to, from a couple of draft chapters and an appendix. We've also posted three videos.
They are:</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1. Sockdolager hove-to off the Oregon coast; <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2. Sockdolager hove-to off New Zealand; and <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
3. A side-by-side split-screen comparison of conditions in the two videos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We hope this post helps to answer some of those technical questions
while also telling a story for our non-technical readers.</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9f91JczaGER8VTJFM6iG6UskL9G2x5fNnu8MTEYjE8rt5QcKKMAMWCbwPs0YH03R0y_JqMNjPMk3nN2Kd9rm4Y-365lIkwDM6H278yt-8QiWe6MIx6hQjGnvpQswzeqY1E80Uz-ZA/s1600/2+Sockdo+in+calmer+waters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9f91JczaGER8VTJFM6iG6UskL9G2x5fNnu8MTEYjE8rt5QcKKMAMWCbwPs0YH03R0y_JqMNjPMk3nN2Kd9rm4Y-365lIkwDM6H278yt-8QiWe6MIx6hQjGnvpQswzeqY1E80Uz-ZA/s1600/2+Sockdo+in+calmer+waters.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager's crew enjoys a sail in calm waters. Photo credit: <a href="http://seaportphotography.com/" target="_blank">Seaport Photography</a>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">On July 22, 2011, we
were hove-to</b> 100 miles off the Oregon coast, waiting out a gale. We
remained hove-to for 48 hours. Every so often a big wave collapsed squarely
onto the windward side of the hull, punching us—BAM!—like a heavyweight
prizefighter. It shoved the boat nearly onto her side. The first time it
happened, Jim was bracing himself in the galley and I was laying in his settee
bunk. At impact I tensed for a knockdown. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Stay
up, stay up, stay up! </i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I beamed
strength to the boat; the rolldown lost momentum at about 50 or 60 degrees off
vertical. Then the heavy weight and leverage of Sockdolager’s keel began
righting us. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ah, whew, we’re okay. But if
these waves get any bigger, we won’t be</i>. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Twenty-four hours
previous</b>, the thought of being at the mercy of a gale coming with so little
warning had caused my mind to briefly race toward panicky paralysis, until I
forced it to stop and come to attention. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">What
are you afraid of</i>, I asked silently. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Of
being smashed by wind and huge seas in these cold waters</i>, the fear
answered, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">of not being in control</i>.
Are you afraid the boat can’t cope? <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">No,
she’s a solid little thing.</i> Is a 35-knot gale something <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">you</i> can’t cope with? <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">No, I’ve seen them before.</i> Is it because
of the reputation of this coast? <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Yes. The
seas are supposed to be worse here. And there are no harbors of refuge. </i>Well,
what can you do about it? <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Stay offshore,
reef the sails and heave-to. Secure everything in the cabin that could fly around,
and remember you got through a gale in the Gulf of Alaska just fine.</i> What
else? <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Act calm. Keep to normal routines.
Discuss all those plans you and Jim made for situations like this</i>. You’ll
do fine, I told myself.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii1cwt5uobBz13Nkj0Go6qPNhbMQ1wq3w23KMih7PFsvma3PYVZdm8JlQVYyxZKNHVCFjbL_UKbNV62Wm4uzri3650IDBl0uMi7p-1F2k2Gi_QeII1p3cE_HV2y1lga9f3zYLEmFah/s1600/3+Big+seas+and+winds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii1cwt5uobBz13Nkj0Go6qPNhbMQ1wq3w23KMih7PFsvma3PYVZdm8JlQVYyxZKNHVCFjbL_UKbNV62Wm4uzri3650IDBl0uMi7p-1F2k2Gi_QeII1p3cE_HV2y1lga9f3zYLEmFah/s1600/3+Big+seas+and+winds.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rising seas off the Oregon coast a day before we hove-to.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Before we’d hove-to </b>we
had been running before the wind and seas, an option that might have remained viable except for one thing: a stronger gale was forming to our south, off Cape
Mendocino. If we continued sailing south, we would risk running into that at a
time when we would also be running out of sea-room on an inhospitable coast.
Bad as it sounded, we needed to try and stay put to avoid the stronger gale to
the south. Sea-room is like money in the bank, it’s safety. We’d sailed 100
miles offshore as a deliberate coping strategy for exactly these circumstances,
because you need plenty of sea-room with a ragged coast from Washington through
Northern California forming a dangerous lee shore. Fetching up on surf-tossed
rocks is rarely survivable, so the closer we got to the coast, the more nervous
we’d get. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIxeUzqRiI3WXI_sobJ_6TNF1UisBGdx5mt0RRLViFmthVBfhcArj49GaY6X8wAWrfU5wCqOZRHzwxhLpNO29LQ9AuLmhXfwXFR8tvOMz9Mb3MwJG2M0c8AsW5F0cfOiCPLCS2NDhv/s1600/4+Oregon_Coast-Wikipedia.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIxeUzqRiI3WXI_sobJ_6TNF1UisBGdx5mt0RRLViFmthVBfhcArj49GaY6X8wAWrfU5wCqOZRHzwxhLpNO29LQ9AuLmhXfwXFR8tvOMz9Mb3MwJG2M0c8AsW5F0cfOiCPLCS2NDhv/s1600/4+Oregon_Coast-Wikipedia.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautiful but inhospitable coast, a dangerous lee shore. This is why we sailed 100 miles offshore. Photo credit: Wikipedia.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At first we hove-to using a double reefed mainsail and a
small scrap of genoa, but we soon rolled up the genoa because the boat was heeling
too much and wasn’t heading up enough into the wind. Our mainsail is relatively
small, so its second reef is where most sailmakers put a third one. But we were
still heeled over too far, and with the tiller hard over the boat still
wouldn’t point much higher than a beam reach, so we rigged the storm trysail,
hoping that would make the difference. The boat heeled less and we pointed a
tad higher, but we remained beam-on to the seas for too much of the time. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Here’s a video of
Sockdolager</b> hove-to in the early stages of the gale off Oregon. We didn’t
get any video of the heart of the gale because it happened at night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also stayed hove-to for an extra twelve
hours because the gale to our south was still blowing, and we didn’t want to
run into it. Besides, it was still blowing thirty knots where we were, so why not wait for it to settle. It's worth noting that the lens on the snapshot camera we used makes waves look a lot smaller than they are. Not that we're playing our violins, but when we watched these videos for the first time, neither of us felt that they showed the seas as high as they really were. Also, some seas are cresting in this video, but none had begun to break and tumble. Two more videos follow, further down this post.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwVqCmRagTA&feature=youtu.be" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="”_blank”"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fLMnYO1j6vps4p7lhdsUAue-22HV6OvRaukxgWx3f1b-qqD8unvVC7FbbaHY-BUqs8p8tEnVzjV0eSToJGXhQhCKw4fRj0yrfRCI7IWq2z3e7KgDn8znV0TbcidtXSfnFC7C2fbv/s1600/OregonButton2.jpg" height="179" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwVqCmRagTA&feature=youtu.be" target="_blank">Click HERE</a> to watch this video.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heaving_to" target="_blank">The idea behind heaving-to</a></u></b> is to use the sails and rudder to “park” the boat so it
rides at a 45 to 60 degree angle to wind and waves, presenting a relatively
small target (the bow) to the seas. Heaving-to stops headway and reduces crew discomfort,
so that you can rest, cook and eat a meal, change or reef sails more safely, or
do more intricate tasks like connecting to a Ham radio net. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhexSfioDI70MoaGueipyoO070TdCgdrh3X86QsqXkGMc0287Vgz0arx3zL0T289xqWY0ZCRDyxgxuyuja2zDs3V7j16ruN9oT4l5N-QZjgYryPXSI-OlkI2flJ_HVekKKux_XhGWQs/s1600/5+Wikipedia+hove-to.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhexSfioDI70MoaGueipyoO070TdCgdrh3X86QsqXkGMc0287Vgz0arx3zL0T289xqWY0ZCRDyxgxuyuja2zDs3V7j16ruN9oT4l5N-QZjgYryPXSI-OlkI2flJ_HVekKKux_XhGWQs/s1600/5+Wikipedia+hove-to.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heaving-to diagram. Credit: Wikipedia.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Although the change to less motion and noise is immediate</b>,
heaving-to doesn’t stop all movement; properly positioned, the boat will drift
directly downwind at about half a knot to a knot. Fin keeled boats will make
more leeway (slippage sideways) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>than
boats with full keels. As the boat is pushed downwind, the water it passes over
smoothes out when it emerges at the surface next to the boat’s upwind side. This
is called its “slick,” though no oil is involved. Whether the effect is an
apparent increase in surface tension as the boat “combs” through the water and flattens this
small patch just to windward, or some other reason, it damps down
waves threatening to break over the boat. They’ll break all around, but rarely
over it. The trick is to stay in that slick area of water by drifting dead
downwind and not moving ahead, out of its protection.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If when hove-to, the bow doesn’t point high enough into the
wind, the boat’s sails will fill and cause it to accelerate forward and out of
position (called fore-reaching.) A boat that’s fore-reaching will make headway
and escape its slick. Note how at the end of the above video the GPS shows our speed accelerating from 0.7 to 2.3 knots. That's fore-reaching. Unless waves are breaking or you are threatened with
being blown onto a lee shore, this may not matter a lot. But off this coast you
can have both threats, so being able to stop the boat is important. Since we had plenty of sea-room and were to windward of our course line, our goal was to outwait the stronger gale to our south while staying on course as best we could. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIsaQiTBtMBIFeq3YfPDW14LViDr-ySZIQD6ospE9PWxovd6aBUo74O8Cyy756YVLv_6b40YK_85kslvfvm8xLSbLjQmLo_dAVGan_JgAVELLVrPLg5-yeaMuzJ9jDFteQlaNWjosA/s1600/6+Windy+day.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIsaQiTBtMBIFeq3YfPDW14LViDr-ySZIQD6ospE9PWxovd6aBUo74O8Cyy756YVLv_6b40YK_85kslvfvm8xLSbLjQmLo_dAVGan_JgAVELLVrPLg5-yeaMuzJ9jDFteQlaNWjosA/s1600/6+Windy+day.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A windy day and no harbor = stay well offshore!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Wind speeds given in
marine weather forecasts</b> can often be lower than what you get in reality,
and forecasts give sea size as the “significant” wave height, which is an average of the
highest one-third of all waves in that area. This means about half the waves
will be less than the significant height. But because intersecting
wave crests sometimes combine to form higher waves, about ten percent of the
seas will be 25 to 30 percent higher than “significant.” One percent will be
two-thirds higher, and about once per hour a wave will be almost twice the
significant height. So if the forecast says “Seas ten feet,” then you should
expect many to be less than that, but also expect ten percent to be 12.7 feet,
one percent to be 16.7 feet, and the highest wave you might see is twenty feet. Encountering rogue waves is uncommon but not unheard of, and these can be several times the significant wave height.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHlFHrhuKzHrUVm8bkgsVBV2hfORZqGvMD3KKYhjhbrJpLCLp6dFjbNd-_aX47ErqyhqJMR40_0AbVsLI8PE9c97U9zDL2y72vZvXTSVp73KWWgoUxdOgmdnML4kd7H5Yf42nAOWFf/s1600/7+Very+large+sea.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHlFHrhuKzHrUVm8bkgsVBV2hfORZqGvMD3KKYhjhbrJpLCLp6dFjbNd-_aX47ErqyhqJMR40_0AbVsLI8PE9c97U9zDL2y72vZvXTSVp73KWWgoUxdOgmdnML4kd7H5Yf42nAOWFf/s1600/7+Very+large+sea.jpeg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Where we were, 100 miles off the southern Oregon coast</b>, there was a
gale warning and a hazardous seas warning. Thirty-five knots of wind and 11 to
13 foot seas are not an uncommon forecast in the North Pacific. But in this part
of that ocean, waves behave differently. They’re steep and nasty. Let’s look at
why.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At sea you often encounter low,
long ground swells, which are not considered wind waves because they formed so
far away and have moved beyond the wind that created them. As they travel
across an ocean, the distance between crests lengthens, so that a 5-foot ground
swell may have a wave period of 13 to 15 seconds. Wave period is the time
between the passing of two wave crests. Wind waves are typically 9 to 12
seconds apart. The wave period of a chop is usually from 3 to 8 seconds.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sometimes current will affect waves, making them steeper if
the wind opposes it. As a wave train approaches a coast, it can “feel” the
bottom, then slow down and stack up much like traffic does. A sudden rise from
abyssal depths to a narrow continental shelf like the one that occurs off this
coast will also create changes in wave patterns, and if the coast is steep and
rocky, waves will refract and boomerang back out to sea. Add to this mix a maze
of offshore undersea canyons that can channel currents and wave energy, and you have a
more complex oceanographic picture than almost anywhere else.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">So... imagine having
current, bottom topography and open-ocean distances combine to give you big
seas with the wave period of a chop.</b> You get boat-stopping walls of water.
Many of these waves will have vertical sides. If the wind is strong, some will
have foamy crests and a few will be breaking. A sea breaks when its base can no
longer support its top, and it collapses, bringing the weight of all that water
on top of anything in its path. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As a top choice of where not to encounter a gale, this was
it. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1aAIwvlWM2VcOpS5l14H_5yHZz-Y5SjJ-r9q_hNjLsczAUddGduj13o77kpdIGBhtfUgmmCGMnzKdrhkNYzrpqjcBp8o96nXtdqovDo54AEWiKyIG3aURwAp17wlhYNZrBPUKkzvS/s1600/BigWave+off+NZ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1aAIwvlWM2VcOpS5l14H_5yHZz-Y5SjJ-r9q_hNjLsczAUddGduj13o77kpdIGBhtfUgmmCGMnzKdrhkNYzrpqjcBp8o96nXtdqovDo54AEWiKyIG3aURwAp17wlhYNZrBPUKkzvS/s1600/BigWave+off+NZ.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In contrast, an even larger wave off New Zealand behaved itself because it was in a wave field that was well-spaced.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">In the gale off Oregon, Sockdolager was
alternating</b> between being positioned about 60 degrees off the eye of the
wind (good) to going completely sideways to the steep seas (bad.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During the latter phase she fore-reached out
of the protection of her slick. That’s when we’d get hit. Breaking waves
clobbered us about a dozen times, though none pushed us into a knockdown.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Back to the story: Jim was standing in the galley, bracing himself and peering
out through a porthole at the wild weather. He maneuvered to my settee bunk,
which was uphill, and tried to lay down in it. But the boat was rolling so hard
he couldn’t stay comfortable, even with the leecloth rigged. “You should have
your own bunk back,” I said, “I’ll move over to mine; I’ve had enough rest.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“No,” he said. “Stay there, I’ll just sleep on the floor.”
He moved some bedding to the cabin sole and lay down, fully clothed and in his
foul weather gear, as was I.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was
the scenario everyone reads about with storms at sea when it gets too rough to
stay in your bunk: you simply sleep on the floor. Except sleeping wasn’t very
likely. Jim looked nervous. This was his first gale in the open ocean. Though
it wasn’t my first gale, I was nervous, too, but determined to stay relaxed so
that I could be rested and ready in case we needed to go into action. I went
through all possible scenarios in my mind, and reassured myself that we were as
ready as we could be. And we talked about all our backup plans, reassuring each
other, because our backup plans were solid.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“Remember how you and <u><a href="http://www.briontoss.com/" target="_blank">Brion Toss</a></u> called the complete
replacement of our rigging and chainplates a good offshore sleep aid?” I asked.
Jim chuckled and put his head on a pillow he’d wedged between the compression
post and the settee.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I guess we’re going to see how well Sockdolager can take
it,” he said. Then, BAM! Another heavyweight punch followed by a shove to the
side, and a cascade of green water washing over the whole boat. We looked at
each other but said nothing as the boat righted herself<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">In a strange way, the
situation reminded me</b> of the day back in 1983 when, at the helm of a 38-foot
Morgan sloop named Dreamweaver, one of two boats chartered for the Connecticut
Audubon Society, I was steering toward the harbor entrance of the Dry Tortugas,
about 70 miles west of Key West, Florida. We had made the 120-mile overnight
passage from Fort Myers okay, but in the long entrance channel to the Dry
Tortugas, we got hit by the edge of a waterspout.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Figure those odds.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
While a cold front had been forecast, its severity was not. Seeing
the eerie dark gray rows of cumulonimbus mammatus clouds rushing toward us, I
knew it was going to be bad, and quietly told all five of my passengers to furl
and lash down the mainsail and then go below, put on life jackets and find a
secure place to sit, “just in case.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9eOt6n-P_RHUaPVpSP4Vi5zKqrWEa4tPbfCg-5y5_I7MI2qhB0cegSjs4gGr5OhVTIF0qJfFJHyIsIG4oalj3Zj9iwxnjAYEq7pzFyBLYMZotnbqnt2SuCL3uFF-C9D2qISinTaHd/s1600/Cumulonimbus+mammatus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9eOt6n-P_RHUaPVpSP4Vi5zKqrWEa4tPbfCg-5y5_I7MI2qhB0cegSjs4gGr5OhVTIF0qJfFJHyIsIG4oalj3Zj9iwxnjAYEq7pzFyBLYMZotnbqnt2SuCL3uFF-C9D2qISinTaHd/s1600/Cumulonimbus+mammatus.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cumulonimbus mammatus clouds, precursors of waterspouts. Photo credit: NOAA.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Three squalls in a row hit us</b>, with the Coast Guard station
on a nearby island measuring maximum gusts of 80, 90, and 100 knots. While I
stayed topside steering through them, I tried to look calm, because I could
feel five pairs of wide eyes closely monitoring every fleeting expression on my
face. It made me think, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">they’re looking
to me for clues. If I stay calm, maybe they will, too</i>. There really wasn’t
time to be afraid, because I was too busy. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Everything got chaotic and it was impossible to see where we
were going. I was trying to keep the boat from going onto a reef by steering
southeast, back toward open water. My sense of direction became completely
disoriented, and I wanted to steer where I thought we had come from, by <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">feel</i>, but the compass said I was wrong.
I knew any mistake would put us on a reef, so I quietly chanted a mantra: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Southeast is safety, southeast is safety.
Trust your compass. You’ll be alright if you trust your compass. </i>Lucky for
us, the wind was from the northwest.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The fourth squall hit</b>
while we were running before it under bare poles. The Coast Guard station a few
miles away recorded 110 knots. There was no way heaving-to would have worked on
a fin-keeled boat caught between two long coral reefs. I heard a train-like
roar coming up behind us, felt the wind and rain pin me to the steering wheel,
felt the boat going over, and saw two of the passengers, braced inside the
cabin with arms and legs spread, appear to do cartwheels in place. Our speed
dropped instantly from 10 knots to zero as the masthead splashed into the top
of a wave, and I braced for collision with our buddy-boat bearing down
behind us, a Cabo Rico 36 also going ten knots. Somehow, the other boat’s
skipper sensed something wrong, and managed to turn his boat away from our path.
We later surmised that the waterspout had passed between us, brushing (or
possibly hitting) Dreamweaver. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I felt Dreamweaver’s cockpit filling with warm seawater, and
watched the companionway hatch boards slide out of their slots and go floating
off into the sea. The sight of these wooden hatch boards blithely on their way
elsewhere brought some sense into the senseless derangement of our situation. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Here is something we can do.</i> In the
howling wind I pointed at them and asked the leader of the group, “Would you
mind grabbing those hatch boards? The owner will absolutely kill me if we lose
them.” He gave me an incredulous look but quickly reached over the coaming and
got them. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Somehow this must have been the right thing to say, perhaps because it forced us all to focus on such an ordinary task as retrieving and passing the
hatch boards below, to be secured. When the powerful gust subsided and the boat
snapped upright and no more mammatus clouds could be seen to windward, everyone
looked relieved. What do you say to a bunch of greenhorns after something like
that? I had no idea, but out popped, “Well, won’t THIS be a good story to tell
your grandchildren!” Five nervous grins returned my smile. Later at anchor, I
slept for 14 hours straight while the passengers took care of themselves. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">But now, in this cold
North Pacific gale</b>, the most serious menace to the boat was if the
frequency and size of the breaking seas increased. Most were not breaking; it
was just that one breaking wave every hour or so, during the first night and
into the next morning, that concerned us. Jim and I decided that if the seas got worse, we would
change our strategy and run before it, perhaps dragging warps to slow us down.
That would mean we’d have to alternate standing cold, wet watches up in the
cockpit since we’d be underway, and we might become exhausted and a bit hypothermic.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Being “parked,” so to speak, warm, dry and (relatively)
comfortable inside the cabin was much better, at least for now. As long as we
kept the navigation lights on, put out the occasional <span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">Sécurité</span> call on the radio, peeked outside
when it made sense to, and kept an eye on the AIS,* which showed us if big
ships were in the area, we should be okay. If the waves didn’t grow bigger,
that is. And if the inertia of being warm and dry down below didn’t overcome
common sense when it might be needed.<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Sockdolager’s
windward side</b> was taking a pounding from wave crests and the occasional collapsing wave,
but the real danger, if their heights increased, was in tumbling and falling
off the top of one to land flat on our leeward side. Boats aren’t meant to do
that, and structural damage from a knockdown would be possible. In 1979 I was on watch steering the 72-foot wooden ketch Taormina north from Honduras to Florida, when an extremely large wave swept in, picked up the boat and slammed her down in a trough. We discovered that the steady leak after that incident was due to six broken ribs. A knockdown is
when a boat goes completely onto its side, keel horizontal, cockpit in the
water, as did Taormina off Cuba and the Morgan 38 in the Dry Tortugas. In a knockdown, damage to
Sockdolager’s spray dodger, solar panel and other deck gear would be likely. A
rollover, on the other hand, is a complete capsize, a nightmare scenario where,
though a mono-hull boat with a ballast keel will eventually right itself, it’s
all but certain to break off the mast. Though we felt in no danger of being
rolled over, a knockdown was the main threat if more seas began breaking. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Happily, the gale
leveled out</b> and didn’t get worse. We stayed dry and warm belowdecks,
resting and talking occasionally, and hanging on. But that 48 hours will remain
vividly pressed in our memories. A few days later Jim said, “I was amazed by
how calm you seemed during the gale. It made me feel calmer, too, and I
appreciated that.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
“I <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">was</i> calm,” I
replied. “After going through all the stuff we could worry about and rejecting
most of it, I figured that was covered, and felt relaxed enough to get some
rest.” <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Where does feeling
calm come from?</b> I can’t answer this for anyone else, but for me, it has to
do with organizing my fear and pinning it down until all that remains is a
small knot crouching sullenly in a dark corner. It comes from trying to
anticipate the worst, and trying to be <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mentally</i>
as well as physically ready for it. It comes from not being surprised. Thinking
through all the angles in advance. Figuring out what we can do. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The only times in my life when I’ve been truly terrified or
panicky came when I felt trapped and recognized my helplessness. Once, when I
got trapped in a small room after a gas heater blew up and singed off my
eyebrows and some of my hair, I went into a blind panic. The other times
happened when I was a passenger in cars or buses being driven way too fast on steep,
narrow, winding mountain roads in rural China, where no one spoke English. I
closed my eyes and rode it out. It may be the feeling of utter helplessness
that contributes the most to fear. For me, the key to keeping calm is finding
the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Here is something we can do</i>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">So, back to
heaving-to.</b> Why did we have such a problem with fore-reaching? We have no
way of measuring wind speed, but estimate it was a solid 35 knots and probably
no more than 40, which is not unusual for a North Pacific gale. Sockdolager has
since hove-to perfectly using only a deeply reefed mainsail, in other
situations with more wind and less wind, so the problem wasn’t the wind. It was
the seas. Vertical walls of water slammed into us in that gale, and knocked us
off course rapidly and repeatedly, preventing the boat from re-assuming the
ideal 45-60 degree stance off the eye of the wind. No matter how we tried to
keep Sockdolager’s bow up to the wind, the next wave was too steep and came too
soon to allow her to recover. There was nowhere else she could go but sideways
into the troughs. We needed to find a better strategy, such as more windage aft
and a better way to force the bow to windward in these conditions.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">We've talked to a lot
of people</b> about heaving-to, and have learned a few things, starting with
this: Steep, short-period seas will make it much, much harder to
heave-to. In August of that same year, a heavy 38-foot Ingrid ketch owned by a
friend experienced fore-reaching off Oregon in a 60-knot gale, in part because
he thought that the windage from a bunch of surfboards tied on the foredeck may
have overcome the boat's tendency to settle down properly. Even a roller-furled
genoa can make a difference. But that wasn't the only reason. It was the seas.
They were much larger, and too steep and close together, and the same thing
happened to him, except that his boat took a full knockdown as he tried to
motor away from the storm. It caught him in the troughs. As Rob described it,
“I opened my eyes underwater, and bubbles were going sideways.”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">When Jim hove-to off
New Zealand</b> in 40 knots and 10-15-foot seas, the boat behaved perfectly
under double-reefed mainsail alone. She didn’t heel too much and kept the bow
at 50 to 70 degrees off the wind. Here is a video taken after the worst of that
gale, which also occurred at night. Winds are about 30 knots in this clip, with
seas 10 to 15 feet and one larger one at the end (shown in the still image below). Sockdolager was on starboard
tack and maintained her position pretty well, as you can see by the masthead
windex. The difference was that the seas off New Zealand were well-spaced, so
the boat could keep her bow up without fore-reaching, and the "slick"
stayed amidships and was more vigorous than off Oregon.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnZhEomt8H0&feature=youtu.be" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiSi-dxYI7s4D9pAati-AxuQn_NSzynoUZaXGI4ac9J9oilT8_Nn31-lJK8Q-JBAYhtPb52WZBPPDEpwn7_ZSFLnYmnbWPBdkmcgPm2Kaw0T5CPdatOATvYVz1hLVow6TO2qiaplW_/s1600/NZButton.jpg" height="181" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnZhEomt8H0&feature=youtu.be" target="_blank">Click HERE</a> to watch this video.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Now let’s look at
footage from both videos side-by-side</b>. Compare the steepness of the seas
(Oregon is on the left, New Zealand on the right) and their frequency. The seas
off Oregon were much closer together, and steeper. The masthead wind indicators
compared seem to bear out our contention that the steeper seas made heaving-to
off Oregon much more difficult. In addition to not allowing the boat to recover its position between seas, the "slick" to windward off Oregon was not as pronounced as it was off New Zealand. We found that putting the two situations
side-by-side made it easier to compare them, and by watching it several times
we could see quite a difference in the seas, both in wave period and steepness.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqPY4E_P0rI&feature=youtu.be" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinpUyc1xQoUr8vA_G_ysw0ms3G4dIi_ua8KmG5m28bL8WapAFZj8mtlshkfzDHhGYRtwpbsa8_HQYn5QvwjyO0XlxcIjvSY-IiqmManyiWL9BP5kkrTHZ-9kwsAd0nLkvNPdagwjwV/s1600/ComparisonButton.jpg" height="179" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqPY4E_P0rI&feature=youtu.be" target="_blank">Click HERE</a> to watch this video.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Here are the main
things we’ve learned about heaving-to:<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1. Relatively few people have actually tried it in oceanic
conditions that would call for it due to heavy winds and/or breaking seas, and
therefore don't really know how their boats would behave in such conditions. Practicing
heaving-to in light air is good, but expecting the boat to behave the same way
in heavy wind and seas is unrealistic. Have other options for sail
configuration available.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2. The ones who have hove-to and whose boats have fin keels tend
to say their boats drift off position, or don't heave-to at all. While this may
be true for some designs, John Harries and Phyllis Nickel aboard Morgan’s Cloud,
a 56-foot McCurdy and Rhodes cutter, (we don’t know them but we’ve read their <u><a href="http://www.morganscloud.com/" target="_blank">web site</a></u>) have this to say about fin keels and heaving-to: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“In recent years
heaving-to has fallen out of fashion. I think this is because of the
misconception that modern fin keel boats won’t heave-to well. In most cases the
actual problem is the limited ability that modern sloops have to appropriately
adjust their sail area to lie heaved-to comfortably, rather than a hull form
issue.”<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
3. Some whose boats have modified fin or full keels with a
cutaway forefoot (front part of the keel) and a combination of high topside or
cabin top, or lots of foredeck windage, say that their boats will drift off
position and fore-reach. The Dana 24 fits this configuration, and with its high
bow, sail area is rarely needed forward of the mast. Fore-reaching is an
acceptable tactic as long as seas are not breaking and you have enough
sea-room. An excellent description of the mechanics of heaving-to and
fore-reaching can be found on Beth Leonard and Evans Starzinger’s web site, as
a<a href="http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/heavingto.pdf" target="_blank"> <u>PDF file, here</u></a>. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
4. Full-keeled boats with large rudders and comparatively
low topside windage will heave-to more easily and without the need for special
sails, but not necessarily in the same way under all conditions. Lin and Larry
Pardey advise using a parachute sea anchor when heaving-to in certain situations,
especially where sea-room is an issue. (See <u><a href="http://www.paracay.com/store/storm-tactics-handbook-3rd-edition.html" target="_blank">Storm Tactics</a></u>.) Wind and sea
conditions made things far more variable than we expected. There appears to be
no one-size-fits-all solution to heaving-to; different tactics are needed
depending on conditions. But any boat with excess windage or that’s loaded with
deck toys is probably not going to heave-to in textbook fashion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Heaving-to is also a
useful steadying tactic</b> for resting up, changing sails, riding out a brief
squall, waiting for adverse wind to subside, dealing with a broken shroud,
stopping for an emergency situation such as a sick crewmember or a person
overboard, having an offshore swim call if it’s warm, cooking and eating a meal
more calmly, or just taking a break from sailing. We’ve done it often, enjoying
the respite it gives from the constant heave, roll and toss.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In extremely light winds where big seas are running, most
diaphanous sails such as drifters and spinnakers would shred themselves in the
back-and-forth heavy rolling. Even a full mainsail will damage itself. It
sounds counterintuitive in such light wind, but we hove-to in Sockdolager using
a double-reefed main and the staysail sheeted in tight, which kept her pointed
in the right direction instead of spinning in circles. It meant being able to
take advantage of zephyrs to inch us across the Pacific through three weeks of
light air and calm. This means a lot when the boat carries limited amounts of
fuel. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Most people think of storms when they hear the phrase
heave-to, but that's just one of many reasons, and for lots of sailors the
least likely reason to be encountered, for learning how one's own individual
boat behaves.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The trick with a Dana
24</b>, as with any boat, is that conditions will dictate which combination of
sails and gear is needed, and that owners should just get out there and
experiment. It took us awhile to learn our boat's sailing characteristics as
well as how to heave her to. The main thing we learned is that the Dana has
enough topside and cabin windage to make using a sail forward of the mast
unnecessary most of the time. That's why, in lesser winds that haven't the
power to force the main back and the bow up, she will sometimes fore-reach,
especially in a chaotic seaway. We hove-to dozens of times, mostly to get some rest in
squally, rainy weather. Fore-reaching was never an issue with well-spaced seas.
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Dana is neither unusually bad nor unusually good at
heaving-to. Statements that “a Dana won’t heave-to” are inaccurate, because
they do, and quite nicely most of the time. The variability in wind and sea
conditions will determine the combination of sails needed. The stronger the
wind, the less sail you’ll need, especially forward of the mast. It's also
possible that our cockpit weather-cloths, solar panel and arch provide some
compensating windage aft.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">We finally reached
San Francisco</b> after waiting out two more gales, one happily at the
dock in Eureka and another at anchor in Drake’s Bay. It felt like a triumph
equal to an ascent of Everest!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIiHta1SPzVxuztcVwRIx4YCnKP-8BxhAGpzS1E9s4-b6hrB-A3RYFENuQQH_bZxjV7I4wyISZ7OwxsNmgDokP6qRhA9VjDyK6fiWKeQ71OWgS8cweXUqFJIKBKKePWgIW6it3-i2O/s1600/IMG_3183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIiHta1SPzVxuztcVwRIx4YCnKP-8BxhAGpzS1E9s4-b6hrB-A3RYFENuQQH_bZxjV7I4wyISZ7OwxsNmgDokP6qRhA9VjDyK6fiWKeQ71OWgS8cweXUqFJIKBKKePWgIW6it3-i2O/s1600/IMG_3183.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The difference between shallow and deep water in 40 knots. (Photo taken from land!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>We called our sailmaker</b>, <u><a href="http://www.porttownsendsails.com/" target="_blank">Carol Hasse</a></u>, to talk about
our experience off the Oregon coast and the way the boat had performed when
hove-to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She made us a backstay-sail, a
small triangle we could hoist up the backstay in order to bring the center of
effort further aft than the storm trysail could. Our friend, rigger Gordon
Neilson, talked to renowned circumnavigators <u><a href="http://www.landlpardey.com/" target="_blank">Lin and Larry Pardey</a></u> at the
Wooden Boat Festival about our problem, and sent us this email:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“I had some time to visit with Lin and Larry,
and spoke to them of the fore-reaching problem you had when hove-to. Larry
grabbed the newly released edition of <a href="http://www.paracay.com/store/storm-tactics-handbook-3rd-edition.html" target="_blank">Storm Tactics (Third Edition)</a> and turned to a page near the back. He looked me straight in the eye and said,
‘Xerox this and send it to them. Morgan's Cloud sails the high latitudes, and
this is their strategy. It works for them.’”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> (Storm Tactics is also on <u><a href="http://pardey.paracay.com/?p=137" target="_blank">DVD</a></u>.)</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Larry’s suggestion with the Morgan’s Cloud example was to
heave-to but also use a Galerider (a type of sea-anchor made of reinforced
webbing) streamed at an angle off the bow to help keep the boat pointed better
upwind. We spoke to the consultant at Hathaway, Reiser and Raymond
(makers of the <u><a href="http://www.hathaways.com/galerider/" target="_blank">Galerider</a></u>) and he had not heard about the way Morgan’s Cloud
streams their Galerider off the bow. He could not recommend doing that with
their product, but we bought one anyway with exactly that intention, to try it
as Morgan’s Cloud did, in case we ever encounter those conditions again.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We haven't used the Galerider yet, nor have we been in
conditions that would have given the backstaysail enough of a test to say it's
indispensable. But we suspect the combination would do well in those short
steep seas, and are glad we have this as an option. Below is our storm sail inventory: the backstaysail, a storm trysail and a storm staysail, all with bright-colored visibility patches. Made by Carol Hasse's <u><a href="http://www.porttownsendsails.com/" target="_blank">Port Townsend Sails</a></u>.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhAl3KC4UaqHv400I9VRGP81ZgHUcEkDXIrnB8hrZeo_kAFe8TmDnUicuNnJjszPnMnhlcc9xC-TauKlrQAkXhoXDXwxuh8aWxg9Vt2cwY8CAoAX5A2OUtuiTp7Jh7Hc4RZErvIi8v/s1600/Sockdolager's+storm+sails.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhAl3KC4UaqHv400I9VRGP81ZgHUcEkDXIrnB8hrZeo_kAFe8TmDnUicuNnJjszPnMnhlcc9xC-TauKlrQAkXhoXDXwxuh8aWxg9Vt2cwY8CAoAX5A2OUtuiTp7Jh7Hc4RZErvIi8v/s1600/Sockdolager's+storm+sails.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Footnotes and
references<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The best book and video combo ever, a must-read/must-see by Lin and
Larry Pardey, (but Jim says don't try reading it just before you go to sleep.) <u><a href="http://www.paracay.com/store/storm-tactics-handbook-3rd-edition.html" target="_blank">Storm Tactics</a></u> <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One of the best references on the web, about <u><a href="http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/heavingto.pdf" target="_blank">heaving-to vs fore-reaching</a></u>, by Beth Leonard and Evans Starzinger, a PDF file. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><a href="http://www.morganscloud.com/2013/06/01/how-to-heave-to-in-a-sailboat/" target="_blank">Advice on heaving-to</a></u>, from the comprehensive web site
by Morgan’s Cloud. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A good, non-technical explanation of how waves are formed,
told from a surfer’s viewpoint, can be found here: <a href="http://www.stormsurf.com/page2/tutorials/wavebasics.shtml" style="text-decoration: underline;" target="_blank">Wave Basics</a>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
*AIS: Acronym for “<u><a href="http://www.worldcruising.com/Office/Content/equipment_AIS_explained_wcm27.pdf" target="_blank">Automatic Information System</a></u>,” it’s a recent built-in receiver on many newer VHF radios that makes collision risk assessment much easier. An AIS receiver shows the name, position, speed, bearing and closest point of approach of other ships, in scalable areas ranging from one to twenty miles. We called it our “poor man’s radar,” but the problem is most fishing boats and small yachts don’t have AIS transponders, so their positions aren’t broadcast. Ours is receiver only, but we learned something from friends in the South Pacific who were very pleased with their AIS transponder. “Big ships see us automatically and change course without us having to call them on the radio,” they said. Next time we replace our VHF we’ll get one with an AIS transponder.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-51975461465755594672013-12-20T17:14:00.001-08:002013-12-20T17:14:41.541-08:00Home for the Holidays<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0bCf07EUwvM9kMMVVZnr-NXe8LZgXwlRghKOgnZ_XZbDG2J_Xky9ivWHCP802rDvBNu-MXzJaHnqsFrWY29sza4P6HmueSkyWFr_5-jI2BrblWcm6dpcQLASv9hwnqJvHUwq2Tw20/s1600/Merry+Christmas+from+K&J.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0bCf07EUwvM9kMMVVZnr-NXe8LZgXwlRghKOgnZ_XZbDG2J_Xky9ivWHCP802rDvBNu-MXzJaHnqsFrWY29sza4P6HmueSkyWFr_5-jI2BrblWcm6dpcQLASv9hwnqJvHUwq2Tw20/s320/Merry+Christmas+from+K&J.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas 2013 at home.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>A Poem for Christmas in Port Townsend</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Light blue, a wet wind </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
hustles heavy clouds in from the Pacific.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The sun cracks a smile,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>washes our
house in gold,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>yellow for
the neighbors,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>a rainbow
for everyone.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Tumbling merrily, a vagabond cloud</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
brushes waving cedars on the ridge.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It looks like rain,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>it looks
like sun,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>it looks
like Spring,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>like
everything all at once.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
White-winged, a common gull</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
perches on a red brick chimney atop a black roof.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The clouds sweep by,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>leap
riverlike from North Beach</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>to cross
the Strait</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>all the way
to Victoria.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Smiling sleepily, you yawn</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
ask from the kitchen, “Where’s the sugar?”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pour milk over Cheerios,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>pour me
another cup of coffee,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>pour your
love over me,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>all through
the days and nights.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Awash in light this morning,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
pouring over that gull, our house, this town,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Life cracks a smile,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>gives us
this Christmas,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>gives us
this home,</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>gives us
each other.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>139</o:Words>
<o:Characters>793</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Karen L. Sullivan Publishing</o:Company>
<o:Lines>6</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>1</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>931</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
All this color, this Christmas, this time.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij4dEUSE8KsEhUWLyBc8ngZZU3E1tl-RXPZObHUUiMiRsSaQKxbTSU9qZBpfQ5HZnLgivZhQyzQjsNhVsRcDa_U62PR0oVDPQ-tFCBaYEXQ0BFk8GUaT5LDZ0mQQ37iOEcOegxgE9u/s1600/Christmas2012+in+North+Cove,+NZ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij4dEUSE8KsEhUWLyBc8ngZZU3E1tl-RXPZObHUUiMiRsSaQKxbTSU9qZBpfQ5HZnLgivZhQyzQjsNhVsRcDa_U62PR0oVDPQ-tFCBaYEXQ0BFk8GUaT5LDZ0mQQ37iOEcOegxgE9u/s320/Christmas2012+in+North+Cove,+NZ.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas 2012 in North Cove, Kawau Island NZ.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-35897848855668285572013-12-15T21:03:00.001-08:002013-12-15T21:03:58.171-08:00Sockdolager in the Movies, Part 3!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/idevaffiliate/idevaffiliate.php?id=154_51" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTgOfkIDAZHSKcEB_dIm1F68Oqbt4UI213MM0IeRAoYW80xeIfMnJ1qTyIQxDDaUXABfBE2ksCVq3d9ZvEwWjp759mRczWm8pqkwb0-_qpOoWHmzIUfucOKcJEnwFTT4c8BimeSLMs/s400/1+OCH+intro+part3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/idevaffiliate/idevaffiliate.php?id=154_51" target="_blank">Click HERE or on the image above to see the video.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Part 3 of the 3-part video series</b> by <a href="http://offcenterharbor.com/">OffCenterHarbor.com</a>,
called “Outfitting a Small Cruiser for Voyaging,” is now available. This part
takes you belowdecks for a tour of the cabin. We hope you enjoy it, and the ten
other videos (including Parts 1 and 2 if you missed them) that you can get access to for free, by filling in the form on the landing
page. Off Center Harbor also made a film about our friend and shipwright Leif Knutson, whose own video-tour of Raven, the boat he built, is a real jaw-dropper.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIHpM3_RmJDwjVr6u0GynJuff8bojv6F_2UO_RyiOtp_p5zF52el6qZuW-uzK0LmxF0Pxf6yNf2xkSD8lS-9wZ5uzcjnbs71LbExzDsgWJaQDQJEXZW3FlMQykM1idIN7G2LI-Mq7J/s1600/1+Sockdo+underway,+Puget+Sound.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIHpM3_RmJDwjVr6u0GynJuff8bojv6F_2UO_RyiOtp_p5zF52el6qZuW-uzK0LmxF0Pxf6yNf2xkSD8lS-9wZ5uzcjnbs71LbExzDsgWJaQDQJEXZW3FlMQykM1idIN7G2LI-Mq7J/s320/1+Sockdo+underway,+Puget+Sound.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sockdolager underway on a fall cruise in Puget Sound</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Warm weather has departed</b> these latitudes, and barefoot days have long been replaced by
something we’ve both missed: the change of seasons and winter’s chill. But
really, winter’s okay. For now. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgML7cPMAihGQGk2ohYF2fPvV1ewRNAkb1Q2pU9yWpexIU8L1NabMJ8nz22UMX4wuQeA0rN9peum1AJgvqRNICQ-HjM0xbC6ZIG4vW_5sCNOrr0RF0KJ-OSe9Xq_wlQwGTRJmLWOKTi/s1600/2+Footprints+in+sand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgML7cPMAihGQGk2ohYF2fPvV1ewRNAkb1Q2pU9yWpexIU8L1NabMJ8nz22UMX4wuQeA0rN9peum1AJgvqRNICQ-HjM0xbC6ZIG4vW_5sCNOrr0RF0KJ-OSe9Xq_wlQwGTRJmLWOKTi/s320/2+Footprints+in+sand.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A favorite memory.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Sockdolager is snug in her winter berth</b>, we're back in our cottage, the Christmas tree
is up, and the utter joy of a hot shower every day is still waaaay too intense for landlubbers to understand. We look
forward to a winter cruise, which will be fun because so few boats are out and we’ll have our
pick of the best spots to anchor. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTNRCROrl2paWogOL-FFXgHdfz8TkiohtzfGe66em3qF-PJvXbWsrBtxwkpBXq_Sob3Prj3CYKMD8mTqOTbNYwm5vBlDhhDODPgv3R-vPYb97v97HhxW833mK0qLhVPd7aWpi9FiFF/s1600/3+Getting+underway,+early+morning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTNRCROrl2paWogOL-FFXgHdfz8TkiohtzfGe66em3qF-PJvXbWsrBtxwkpBXq_Sob3Prj3CYKMD8mTqOTbNYwm5vBlDhhDODPgv3R-vPYb97v97HhxW833mK0qLhVPd7aWpi9FiFF/s320/3+Getting+underway,+early+morning.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our cruising friends in New Zealand and Australia are
wearing jandals and shorts and enjoying a fine summer, so maybe it’s time to get nostalgic with a
few items in a “best of” series.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We will start with New Zealand, but will occasionally be plucking images from the many thousands of photos we took over
the past two years. Here's the best beach we found on the whole trip. (Surprise, it’s not
tropical.)<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnoR4WIsFVwEjjpEfEGCfIJ2_XtMenWWToDwx9vhMQj7vVQsUDreHFu5bx0rEri8UDpMWiiY0EdUaCTgtost8mCzrlAFjsS3222nBT4qRICTdxAmNhHKu_yN-imvygSwyfifXuoLJI/s1600/4+Best+beach-Tasman+Sea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnoR4WIsFVwEjjpEfEGCfIJ2_XtMenWWToDwx9vhMQj7vVQsUDreHFu5bx0rEri8UDpMWiiY0EdUaCTgtost8mCzrlAFjsS3222nBT4qRICTdxAmNhHKu_yN-imvygSwyfifXuoLJI/s320/4+Best+beach-Tasman+Sea.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wharariki Beach, near Cape Farewell west of Nelson, NZ. It faces west into the Tasman Sea.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our road trip gave us some terrific images.
Going straight to the good stuff, here is the best chocolate stash we’ve ever
seen. I mean, you’d never have to go to the grocery store again if you could
figure out how to store this baby in the garage.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg70klDbAIzrj2-mgtaZbHpVXSYkB-MAhEGmk3jiP19RzP31O0lRRFyc92edSO5dNU67u9XEN2tqMv8BmWO3to838tH4hbmUAmYUlmkrVWMAMgHM_2s-or3PG9SIbBvUgKq1LHP-Wf0/s1600/5+Best+tower+of+chocolate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg70klDbAIzrj2-mgtaZbHpVXSYkB-MAhEGmk3jiP19RzP31O0lRRFyc92edSO5dNU67u9XEN2tqMv8BmWO3to838tH4hbmUAmYUlmkrVWMAMgHM_2s-or3PG9SIbBvUgKq1LHP-Wf0/s320/5+Best+tower+of+chocolate.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Best tower of chocolate. Dunedin, NZ.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Best road signs include one that we really should consider adopting
here in the US.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHUO_CYyX-670w81NFJ4b4B4tT7NVJ9G_dNwkRhVY4eKDzn1NosUD_IOA5IcROHvtLDuG5a-IoviKFeMrhz_Wd9Trb2LChGazR2owyaPkxZeUCUWeKPYQMudLFGrYw0EVXWgEBPk-w/s1600/6+Best+obvious+road+sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHUO_CYyX-670w81NFJ4b4B4tT7NVJ9G_dNwkRhVY4eKDzn1NosUD_IOA5IcROHvtLDuG5a-IoviKFeMrhz_Wd9Trb2LChGazR2owyaPkxZeUCUWeKPYQMudLFGrYw0EVXWgEBPk-w/s320/6+Best+obvious+road+sign.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And the fire department’s no slouch with their messages,
either.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVGUsL3K-kowhkTfHSnIECH8ElrzLpbEwmiUsWuenz3aEzrRrTB8YV62gJQ_rfKH1Z5OSIRvRwwrORPmsn6Sz9UxUCwGMAT8nK42-WN7hjY4fCTL0tJudrGGIZupKvl_cSaXTqIAu/s1600/7+Best+warning+sign+Don't+drink+and+fry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqVGUsL3K-kowhkTfHSnIECH8ElrzLpbEwmiUsWuenz3aEzrRrTB8YV62gJQ_rfKH1Z5OSIRvRwwrORPmsn6Sz9UxUCwGMAT8nK42-WN7hjY4fCTL0tJudrGGIZupKvl_cSaXTqIAu/s320/7+Best+warning+sign+Don't+drink+and+fry.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
These bits of punctuation are strategically placed around
the country. Come on, ya drivers, let’s show a little more enthusiasm out
there!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuiO-lxcExa-Jc-hSNCy6D1Ch4i8hopm63PDl2aR06BuccsaB3ezYUtGu8guoip_MTDELDnPpDrvDJVm0PmARun8KhlXDbJGYrrcpotwBQYlAf0m4CjU2bwKWRHneeTDbI673QJRC/s1600/8+Best+happy+sign.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuiO-lxcExa-Jc-hSNCy6D1Ch4i8hopm63PDl2aR06BuccsaB3ezYUtGu8guoip_MTDELDnPpDrvDJVm0PmARun8KhlXDbJGYrrcpotwBQYlAf0m4CjU2bwKWRHneeTDbI673QJRC/s320/8+Best+happy+sign.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are also a lot of warnings about wind socks. If one
got loose and wrapped around your windshield it could be very bad. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh729ZM8VIIhi0w4PWFs3aiuDyzGCypOiTYRYGKh2a45DkYd2GRd3BblMToDykZ-3QTZxmgp5NxJ-X8_QV_-gT04UzK2MlRNyDwL48XL5eyuVqTlk50NrqFa382VdZQ-m0Lzdifn-6f/s1600/9+Warning-wind+sock+ahead.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh729ZM8VIIhi0w4PWFs3aiuDyzGCypOiTYRYGKh2a45DkYd2GRd3BblMToDykZ-3QTZxmgp5NxJ-X8_QV_-gT04UzK2MlRNyDwL48XL5eyuVqTlk50NrqFa382VdZQ-m0Lzdifn-6f/s320/9+Warning-wind+sock+ahead.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Best license plate on a campervan ever. No ambiguity here.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUZiq887DzvXgNJnrQLEIHypMo4gY_lvIeNwNNY98zyG6-OWWt2r7RK4LeBEt-9XRY0R8qN16posMLNrw_ohfXvIRShV9quuJuBrAge1_H_WNc0jMeRbFxbw72_YQ86nA7QzacgD2N/s1600/10+Best+license+plate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUZiq887DzvXgNJnrQLEIHypMo4gY_lvIeNwNNY98zyG6-OWWt2r7RK4LeBEt-9XRY0R8qN16posMLNrw_ohfXvIRShV9quuJuBrAge1_H_WNc0jMeRbFxbw72_YQ86nA7QzacgD2N/s320/10+Best+license+plate.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Best match ever, of a paint job on a campervan with the look of its six
young sleeping occupants. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM1slEcFEumdiSxWSlGK5TW9hWy1tIUp45X00PuzYnHuUVFtRAWqpbaD_IEtsSmCssuKZAY-6211gLrSzA60bHWKwxURZg13mtMMTsd5CcQHSJYlCuD0xrUZhM-6O3qNFIWgUj3J9K/s1600/11+Best+campervan+paint+job.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM1slEcFEumdiSxWSlGK5TW9hWy1tIUp45X00PuzYnHuUVFtRAWqpbaD_IEtsSmCssuKZAY-6211gLrSzA60bHWKwxURZg13mtMMTsd5CcQHSJYlCuD0xrUZhM-6O3qNFIWgUj3J9K/s320/11+Best+campervan+paint+job.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Best literary town name, though it might have been better as
“Middle Earth.” For locals, the painted thing on the road says "50." But if you're not used to driving in NZ it says, "SO," leaving you to fill in, "are we on the right side of the road?"<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiB7OhifJJH3H1gOW0l3UaHVrmKm6ehxk-DJF8ZNV7J5KF3_QXKhAVPDoCKbk3nBPPIk_JEI_Oc6ANzDxit-3EiTqCgZVVH-DgwQ4P8rDjCYoRl6oyDngmgJvwS79okn9mq_ye7LKC/s1600/12+Best+literary+town+name.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiB7OhifJJH3H1gOW0l3UaHVrmKm6ehxk-DJF8ZNV7J5KF3_QXKhAVPDoCKbk3nBPPIk_JEI_Oc6ANzDxit-3EiTqCgZVVH-DgwQ4P8rDjCYoRl6oyDngmgJvwS79okn9mq_ye7LKC/s320/12+Best+literary+town+name.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Middlemarch. We looked for George Eliot and Mrs. Dollop, but it was mostly a wide spot in the road.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Best. Phone booth. Ever. On Stewart Island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw17bHK9yQWcBdXDCElFm-ZHTYB67vtKLOI0UOg55MKShZEB5Cq3Jm4XiZ0jVaDtV7IH7eaEHCSDa50c9cvbMsRIRWL_v-FeyRV04Jrm9hCGlZSCTy0UJ9CRcw26HomzzpZ4D6SSjZ/s1600/13+Best+phone+booth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw17bHK9yQWcBdXDCElFm-ZHTYB67vtKLOI0UOg55MKShZEB5Cq3Jm4XiZ0jVaDtV7IH7eaEHCSDa50c9cvbMsRIRWL_v-FeyRV04Jrm9hCGlZSCTy0UJ9CRcw26HomzzpZ4D6SSjZ/s320/13+Best+phone+booth.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As everyone knows, the ozone hole over the Antarctic has had
issues, and the intensity of sun in NZ can be even more than in the tropics.
Dark glasses in summer are a must. NZ has six gazillion sheep. Do the math.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5ZSIbvi4fUst7l8iaSKPNYgQ0IRs2s5PwBoH9qz6ZU3xLlssphwG8WS2fUBMCrhCIeQi_xxflORmHtNhyC0ntPZHiwyzQBfnkbaVahL7x9CHuXlBjU9mC2FXhcFwzujRu2vYVyjfw/s1600/14+Sheep+sun+protection.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5ZSIbvi4fUst7l8iaSKPNYgQ0IRs2s5PwBoH9qz6ZU3xLlssphwG8WS2fUBMCrhCIeQi_xxflORmHtNhyC0ntPZHiwyzQBfnkbaVahL7x9CHuXlBjU9mC2FXhcFwzujRu2vYVyjfw/s320/14+Sheep+sun+protection.jpg" width="227" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Finally, after a search over ten thousand miles, Jim found the best caption for his portrait. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Yj1l52iYeN9MaRD8tgRrhd6AyRgL_BiNG5xuLCSdr8SmgoorDnnbKn9do-f0p6yZ2sDC44nuQNOS3Tv1dYzEvgi9rYNxD6bnkAz9vPv7t7oG9cLYBX76xpdmA_-eIPxPmOD7tQ4G/s1600/14a+Jim,+a+live+wire.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Yj1l52iYeN9MaRD8tgRrhd6AyRgL_BiNG5xuLCSdr8SmgoorDnnbKn9do-f0p6yZ2sDC44nuQNOS3Tv1dYzEvgi9rYNxD6bnkAz9vPv7t7oG9cLYBX76xpdmA_-eIPxPmOD7tQ4G/s320/14a+Jim,+a+live+wire.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We’ve saved the best for last. The rainbows in Milford Sound
don’t all just hang in the sky, some of them slide down waterfalls. Literally,
shimmering curtains of color fall one after the other down to the water. Now
that’s a rainbow.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4i5ONgeMLeaNVATZHPaKJUq5DJYBpQrZBpEx_Ffj4qyTv8uMv7A-IW_5Q99X9Yk_KBco6yfrUYB1sjU3CaG2XQlnbTek6udaPTnFzXd61EjGI2VkLbsg-5gpdreO-a6iQYQkL6FPu/s1600/15+Best+rainbow-Milford+Sound.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4i5ONgeMLeaNVATZHPaKJUq5DJYBpQrZBpEx_Ffj4qyTv8uMv7A-IW_5Q99X9Yk_KBco6yfrUYB1sjU3CaG2XQlnbTek6udaPTnFzXd61EjGI2VkLbsg-5gpdreO-a6iQYQkL6FPu/s320/15+Best+rainbow-Milford+Sound.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
No matter where you are, we hope you're enjoying the holiday season.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:DocumentProperties>
<o:Revision>0</o:Revision>
<o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime>
<o:Pages>1</o:Pages>
<o:Words>505</o:Words>
<o:Characters>2882</o:Characters>
<o:Company>Karen L. Sullivan Publishing</o:Company>
<o:Lines>24</o:Lines>
<o:Paragraphs>6</o:Paragraphs>
<o:CharactersWithSpaces>3381</o:CharactersWithSpaces>
<o:Version>14.0</o:Version>
</o:DocumentProperties>
<o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
<o:AllowPNG/>
</o:OfficeDocumentSettings>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:WordDocument>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:TrackFormatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w:DoNotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w:DontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/>
<w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/>
<w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
<w:UseFELayout/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:WordDocument>
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
DefSemiHidden="true" DefQFormat="false" DefPriority="99"
LatentStyleCount="276">
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="0" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Normal"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="heading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="toc 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="59" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"
UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
</w:LatentStyles>
</xml><![endif]-->
<!--[if gte mso 10]>
<style>
/* Style Definitions */
table.MsoNormalTable
{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";
mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
mso-style-noshow:yes;
mso-style-priority:99;
mso-style-parent:"";
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
mso-para-margin:0in;
mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-font-family:Cambria;
mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;
mso-hansi-font-family:Cambria;
mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;}
</style>
<![endif]-->
<!--StartFragment-->
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-84093982630995804002013-11-19T17:46:00.000-08:002013-11-20T10:28:44.572-08:00Sockdolager in the Movies! Part 2<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5fOATY2GKoNiGek19R8SdLJrxTSs6Zf-ZW_Dzkg65jkP59utX2WfRkxlNDNuRc_4nwCqrkOM9XjE5Qs1ncXZla_SHVogXfndzCLJvdO6gXxSrEJ6Du9igyLwr2WGY5x-3O_3NPQIQ/s1600/1+OCH+intro+photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5fOATY2GKoNiGek19R8SdLJrxTSs6Zf-ZW_Dzkg65jkP59utX2WfRkxlNDNuRc_4nwCqrkOM9XjE5Qs1ncXZla_SHVogXfndzCLJvdO6gXxSrEJ6Du9igyLwr2WGY5x-3O_3NPQIQ/s320/1+OCH+intro+photo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://tour.offcenterharbor.com/sockdolager/?idev_id=154" target="_blank">Click HERE to see Part 2</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Part 2 of what has become a 3-part series</b> called “<a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/idevaffiliate/idevaffiliate.php?id=154_51" target="_blank">Outfitting a Small Cruiser for Voyaging</a>,” is ready for you to view on a special page
created just for our blog readers by the Maine-based maritime film documentary
group called <a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/" target="_blank">Off Center Harbor</a>. They’ve been wonderful (and at times hilarious)
to work with, and we highly recommend joining, for access to more than a
hundred videos on subjects ranging from boat building to sail repair to
cruising under sail to tours and histories of beautiful and fascinating classic yachts and work boats, and more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They’re cranking out
several new videos each month, so there's lots of variety. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For more information on outfitting a small boat for extended cruising, this 3-part series can be augmented by viewing our side page called "<a href="http://karenandjimsexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/p/fiddly-bits.html" target="_blank">Fiddly Bits</a>." </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So go have a look at Part 2 and sign up on that page for 10 more free
videos that include Part 1, if you missed it. Part 2 will be replaced by Part 3
on the special page in a few weeks, and we’ll let you know when it’s ready for
viewing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Meanwhile, for our sailing friends in the sunny, summery Southern Hemisphere, here is the Next Big Thing. You heard it here first. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBSsHsRAALFMLDr7xbVbH89F5dIGI2mxptFXkT1-fkbV8OZpZSdfoPn7gi2p6s7cIhmL6GytCWg8FK3q31SjHbqwQ3dEv_H1PqfA4mmBDfjd3t8Yf2YSpYoRs4kEcRAzrVLTNfdRMg/s1600/Hi-heeled+swimwear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBSsHsRAALFMLDr7xbVbH89F5dIGI2mxptFXkT1-fkbV8OZpZSdfoPn7gi2p6s7cIhmL6GytCWg8FK3q31SjHbqwQ3dEv_H1PqfA4mmBDfjd3t8Yf2YSpYoRs4kEcRAzrVLTNfdRMg/s320/Hi-heeled+swimwear.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1274932517551878927.post-36982125981975944932013-10-18T18:36:00.000-07:002013-11-20T09:04:44.020-08:00Sockdolager in the Movies!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtasbhDBXxG9LwfAGsiMPZXG8q-94RLnHm3sR1EkZvlBDJkcvxiKBYG5zHHKjtg2tHi6WdEZviLowp7q0j7yOf16bQhlly-E5jLmxJf-GSlnokrK4ScT6RAYpvzjXaQKXxa8-EBbnl/s320/img_PlaBut_SOCKDOLAGER_pt1_wo.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/idevaffiliate/idevaffiliate.php?id=154_51" target="_blank">Click here for this video</a>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Dreams vs budgets:</b> that's a new category of video at <a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/about/" target="_blank">Off Center Harbor</a>, the Maine-based, exceptionally talented marine documentary group who just made a film starring Sockdolager (!!) and called it "<a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/idevaffiliate/idevaffiliate.php?id=154_51" target="_blank">Outfitting a Small Cruiser for Voyaging, Part 1</a>." You can see it by clicking on the title or photo caption above. Filmmaker <a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/steve-stone/" target="_blank">Steve Stone</a> put us right at ease and made the filming part feel effortless and fun, the extent of which you'll be able to gauge by the amount of giggling coming from yours truly (K).<br />
<br />
<b>But! Hang on to your hats!</b> Steve also made us <a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/sockdolager/" target="_blank">our very own Off Center Harbor web page</a> for our friends, family and blog readers! Can you beat that! AND! This video, which is part 1 of 2 parts, has been paired with an article written by Karen Larson of <a href="http://www.goodoldboat.com/" target="_blank">Good Old Boat magazine</a>, that appeared in 2010 and featured my former Dana 24, Minstrel. You can find it by clicking <a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/2013/10/17/small-boat-large-experience/" target="_blank">here</a>. I didn't know they were going to do that, and okay, I'm blushing now.<br />
<br />
<b>**NB, November 19, 2013: Part 2 has now replaced Part 1. And Part 3 will be replacing Part 2 in a few weeks. You'll be able to see all 3 parts by signing up for the 10 free videos in the box on the right side of the special page the links take you to.</b><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQAK6qIlg7cIL2VDTXMeJH8cIR2DgK5XQmoCfuCJETcfdSSTaoOV8pwsXmtX3mmScfSkD-46HZH5qooj-dJr4WfHTLR8lqtkcSVTCi9E_3gU-1VTzLh-bGdVLTCCrDOJZrp8tGujID/s1600/img_PlaBut_sleepless_wbf_wo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQAK6qIlg7cIL2VDTXMeJH8cIR2DgK5XQmoCfuCJETcfdSSTaoOV8pwsXmtX3mmScfSkD-46HZH5qooj-dJr4WfHTLR8lqtkcSVTCi9E_3gU-1VTzLh-bGdVLTCCrDOJZrp8tGujID/s320/img_PlaBut_sleepless_wbf_wo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.offcenterharbor.com/home-sp/" target="_blank">Click here to see OCH's highlight video and 10 others.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Off Center Harbor is a subscription-based video service</b>, and so far we've been unable to plumb their fathomless depths because they have so many cool videos to choose from. I found myself sitting back and saying "Ahhh!" a lot. In addition to films about voyage preparation, their topics cover seamanship, boatbuilding, tools of the trade, tours of historic boats, and instructional videos for kids, plus links to many blogs. Sailing is a small world, so I'm delighted to be seeing a lot of people I either know or have heard of. <br />
<br />
So, enjoy Part 1 and its accompanying article and other videos, and we'll let you know when Part 2 is ready (or Off Center Harbor will if you decide to subscribe.) <br />
<br />
Finally, for those of you in the northern hemisphere who are getting ready to put your boats to bed for the winter, or, for that matter, for those of you in the southern hemisphere where it's Spring and time to do something for the boat, here's a simplified maintenance flow chart. You're welcome.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGHFM7jV0Zoiwb-RE1pfyxqkTTGggYYjE-XCrJwa4qA_PVv7wlAWoq8CgjsWBGQzS7-hfllBePWi3nuGsfy_HH-z2B3MCA83R5AIVg0D2_nHczHSST272VeS_C31aPucTBHfk70ED/s1600/Sailboat+maintenance+flow+chart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGHFM7jV0Zoiwb-RE1pfyxqkTTGggYYjE-XCrJwa4qA_PVv7wlAWoq8CgjsWBGQzS7-hfllBePWi3nuGsfy_HH-z2B3MCA83R5AIVg0D2_nHczHSST272VeS_C31aPucTBHfk70ED/s320/Sailboat+maintenance+flow+chart.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Karen Sullivan and Jim Heumannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04773839137613871820noreply@blogger.com5