So when we entered Kyuquot Sound we were surprised by the color of the water--pure turquoise, just like the Caribbean except milky like an Alaskan fjord. None of the cruising guides mention that. The wind began to pick up and it looked like the gale was imminent, so we headed deep into the sound, to a cove within a cove, called Dixie, on Hohoae Island, where we felt no wind at all. The anchor was hardly down before the crab pot was, and in a one-beer soak Jim pulled up a huge Dungeness crab that fed us both! It rained steadily all night and all the next day, and was still raining this morning when we decided to pick our way through shoals and rocky islets to a tiny settlement called Walter's Cove, where local residents are extremely friendly and kind.
Next is a cove in the Bunsby Islands, then Columbia Cove on the Brooks Peninsula, then Quatsino Sound, where we will reprovision for the weeks in the Queen Charlottes. Interesting fact about the Brooks Peninsula: A couple of whale scientists aboard a boat for a group called Strait Watch told us that the humpback populations are divided into two main groups. One migrates along the coast, wintering in Mexico and going about as far north as the Brooks Peninsula. The other is the northern group, wintering in Hawaii and migrating to Alaska. There are even some humpbacks from Indonesia that join the northern group! Seeing all this wildlife and magnificent scenery feeds the soul.